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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Dec 19, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand. Initial thoughts Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition. The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.   A dial crafted by four artisans The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans,...

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Dec 12, 2024

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar

As someone who typically leans towards the toolish side of Seiko’s offerings, there was something about the watch I bring you today which stopped me in my tracks for an inexplicable reason. Perhaps it is explicable (perhaps in real time while writing this) and I may figure out a way to explic...I mean, explain it. Yes, I am coming to you to introduce a new Seiko Presage Classic model. It is called the SPB478J1, and I think it just might be the attainable dress watch of the year. Okay, taking a step back for a moment, I am a Rolex guy and a two-tone guy. I regularly wear a two-tone Rolex Datejust on a jubilee bracelet so I certainly have a type. And you can see from looking at this watch, the Seiko SPB478J1, that it fits nicely into this category for me. Getting my biases out of the way, let’s dig into the watch. So Seiko, as we know, calls its watches by their reference numbers. But it also gave this one a nice little descriptor on the website: Delicate Cream Silk. I mean, come on, that’s amazing. It’s almost like it could be the alternative name of a band consisting of Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak. The name actually refers to the watch’s dial because, of course it does. The dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” The brand calls this a ‘Shiro-Iro’ colored dial.  Moving to the watch itself, it features gold-colored accents for a mixed-met...

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - Dec 9, 2024

The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner

Last month, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar won the famed “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix at 2024’s GPHG. Because of its innovative complication, it’s a watch worth revisiting. However, you can also visit this timepiece in person at the new Amsterdam IWC boutique. We briefly looked at the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar after it debuted at […] Visit The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar - GPHG 2024’s “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix Winner to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Dec 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 29, 2024

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful

The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...

Hands-on – The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Nov 25, 2024

Hands-on – The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Dress watches are typically slim, elegant, and minimalistic, designed to complement formal attire seamlessly. While their refined details and artistry are anything but boring, they are seldom described as playful. Now, the platinum Breguet Classique 7787 with its black Grand Feu enamel dial-a piece that is, say, different. Alongside its classic beauty, it exudes a […]

Unique Tudor Black Bay Ceramic for Las Vegas Grand Prix SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Nov 24, 2024

Unique Tudor Black Bay Ceramic for Las Vegas Grand Prix

Building upon the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” made just for the Miami Grand Prix in May, Tudor just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic in green-blue livery, which will be worn by drivers Yuki Tsunoda and Liam Lawson of the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) during the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix. Inspired by the glittering lights and colours of the Las Vegas strip that hosts the circuit, the one-off Black Bay Ceramic a speckled, graduated green-blue dial paired with a matching strap. Initial thoughts Since the announcement of the partnership between Tudor and the VCARB Formula 1 Team, the watchmaker has already unveiled several VCARB editions. The Las Vegas and Miami race editions are more striking and unusual, but unfortunately only issued to the team drivers for the race. Regular folk will have to make do with the Black Bay Ceramic VCARB that’s available in stores and good value, but not quite as unique. While it might seem that that special editions from Tudor are many, the brand’s collaborative watches mirrors the approach taken by Rolex decades ago, when the Geneva giant made watches for various professionals. Besides VCARB, Tudor has made watches for French navy aviators, the Alinghi America’s Cup team, and reputedly the US Navy’s elite SEALs. The colours of the Strip The dial and strap feature a green-blue finish modelled by the VCARB livery for the Las Vegas Grand Prix, which is in turn inspired by the reflected lights of the Las Vegas Strip. As...

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 15, 2024

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time

One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Pair Oct 28, 2024

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel

Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials

The Breguet Classique line - contrary to what its name suggests - always reminds me of Baroque music. I can hear Scarlatti when I see the coin-edge cases, welded lugs, swirly Breguet numerals, and guilloché or enameled dials. They exude the same regal, exalted, masterful feeling as Mikhail Pletnev interpreting Scarlatti on piano. Today’s release […] Visit Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials to read the full article.

Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches? Fratello
Citizen Sep 16, 2024

Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches?

Seiko has long been the default choice for affordable and bulletproof mechanical timekeepers. But is Citizen now starting to take over that role? There’s plenty of evidence to suggest that it is, so let’s examine this topic today. My first article for Fratello asked: “Is the Seiko magic slipping away?” You see, like so many […] Visit Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” Fratello
Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Aug 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”

Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.

Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko Fratello
Rolex MilSub.” Aug 4, 2024

Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko

This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.” The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, […] Visit Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko to read the full article.

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee SJX Watches
Casio n well.  Unusually it Jul 23, 2024

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee

While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well.  Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More Fratello
Ressence Rolex Jul 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More

Yes, it’s time to talk about watches for summer because that is indeed the season we’re in right now. This series is a nice reminder of that because the weather gods haven’t shown us any summer yet here in the Netherlands. I keep telling my six-year-old daughter that we’re actually in the middle of summer […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

#TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko Fratello
Tissot Wyler Jul 11, 2024

#TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko

I love to read stories about watch selections that follow a theme. When I spotted Thor’s list of unusual rectangular watches last Saturday, I instantly started to put together a list of my own featuring rectangular vintage watches. Well, here we are! Besides two crazy mechanical complications, you will also find classic style and even […] Visit #TBT A Vintage Take On Alternative Rectangular Cool With Mido, Tissot, Wyler, And Seiko to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More Fratello
Hamilton Citizen Jul 5, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’re looking at some of the best watches featured in famous movies. But we’ll stick to the affordable options rather than drumming up some more expensive ones. Maybe we will get to those in a different article. For now, let’s focus on affordable watches with great stories of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More to read the full article.

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 5, 2024

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide

There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase.  All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...

Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication Fratello
Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref Jul 1, 2024

Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication

You’ve seen the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time before but never in a two-tone look. Since Watches and Wonders 2024, there’s the reference 5520RG, a very complicated and exclusive travel watch in rose and white gold. The colorway might sound very 1990s, but the sunburst dial is very en vogue. Do we start with the […] Visit Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko Fratello
Holthinrichs Jun 17, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko

Every price segment has its king, and for watches under €5,000, it’s Tudor. Luckily, Thomas and Jorg already had their turns in this series, and both featured Tudor watches as their first picks. That’s good because now I can focus on other interesting stuff. Although the budget is quite comfortable, it’s certainly not an easy […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Holthinrichs, And Seiko to read the full article.