Revolution
About the “Cover Girl” - In Conversation with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare
Wei Koh speaks with Zenith CEO, Julien Tornare in Miami on the launch of the Zenith x Revolution Chronomaster Revival Ref. A3818 “Cover Girl”.
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Revolution
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1500T
Within DOXA’s lineup of tributes to its 1967-born icon, the SUB 300, the SUB 1500T poses the burning question none of us knew we were asking: What if it could go even deeper? Because one of the most self-sabotaging misnomers the watch industry has ever seen is this: the Doxa SUB 300T hints at only … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1500T appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition
This week on Great ’Grams, it’s all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Angostura 1787: A Rich, Ultra-Premium Rum Destined For Sipping Not Mixing
If anyone ever questions rums as a sipping spirit, Ken Gargett directs them to Angostura's Cask Collection and they never again doubt. For those who enjoy this style, he thinks that Angostura will very quickly become a go-to choice for a sipping rum. In this article Ken delves into the entire delicious Angostura collection, too.
Time+Tide
5 times you should never take a photo of your watch
Let’s get this straight at the outset: you should go easy on the watch shots full-stop. Unless you’re taking a pic to share with a fellow watch lover, snapping close-ups of your shiny new wrist-wear is rarely necessary or wise. But there are scenarios where it is expressly forbidden. At a wedding It’s the happy … ContinuedThe post 5 times you should never take a photo of your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Japanese Watchmaking Legend Kikuo Ibe
Wei Koh ticks off meeting yet another industry legend on his list of greats, sitting down with the father of the G-SHOCK, Kikuo Ibe.
Time+Tide
Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo
“To boldly go where no man has gone before …” For most people, that’s just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it’s become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He’s the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the … ContinuedThe post Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Horoloupe - Instagram’s Best Known Audemars Piguet Collector
Revolution’s founding editor, Wei Koh sits down with Instagram’s most followed collector of Audemars Piguet watches, Austen Chu. Better known to you and I, by his handle: @Horoloupe.
![Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Geneva-city-jet-deau.jpg)
SJX Watches
Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]
Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...
Time+Tide
Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch - the results
Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and reviewed: Citizen Kuroshio ’64
Citizen revives the Spirit of the Iconic Parawater with the new Kuroshio ’64 series of 5 watches. We go hands-on with the new watch.
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva Cancelled
Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the trade show formerly known as SIHH, has just announced its cancellation. Scheduled to take place in Geneva from April 25 to 29, the event was canned due to “the latest developments concerning the worldwide spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus”. Organising body Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FIHH) said in a statement that the decision was made “to protect the health and wellbeing of all our guests, press, partners and teams.” Its announcement comes not long after Switzerland confirmed its first patient with the coronavirus on Tuesday, alongside a sudden spike in cases in Italy. A scene from SIHH 2019 WWG is the second major Swiss event to be cancelled, following the Swatch Group’s decision to call off Time to Move in Zurich, a launch exhibition of its new watches, which was scheduled to take place from February 28 to March 2. Industry insiders now expect Baselworld 2020, slated to take place right after WWG, to follow suit. Several exhibitors at Baselworld, including Bulgari and Citizen, have already pulled out of the fair. But as of February 20, the world’s biggest watch and jewellery trade show is still going ahead.
Time+Tide
Crime or Sublime: Should you ever put a NATO strap on a dress watch?
This week Time+Tide HQ sees two new opponents enter the ring, with Luke and Nick trading haymakers on the topic of a NATO strap on a dress watch - very vogue, or fashion faux pas? You be the judge of this one. Luke Benedictus – The For Argument In 2020, most of the dress codes surrounding … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Should you ever put a NATO strap on a dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or”
Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 79: Budget Watch Collection Fantasy Draft 2020
Four editors go head-to-head to assemble the best group of watches for under $10,000.
Time+Tide
Crime or Sublime: Wearing jewellery with watches - the results
Last week, Luke Benedictus and James Robinson were engaged in a ferocious war of words at T+T HQ over whether or not wearing jewellery with watches was a crime or sublime. Benedictus didn’t see any issues with it, while Robinson believed the very notion to be simply abhorrent, despite having previously worn jewellery and a … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Wearing jewellery with watches – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Actor Rodger Corser brings Ch.9 travel show Postcards into the Time+Tide office!
Whether he’s playing a hard-partying surgeon in Doctor Doctor or a bewildered zombie in Glitch, Rodger Corser is a square-jawed fixture on Australian TV. But he’s also a serious watch guy. So when Channel 9 travel show Postcards asked him to pick his favourite Melbourne venues, we were humbled that he picked Time+Tide. “I’m part … ContinuedThe post Actor Rodger Corser brings Ch.9 travel show Postcards into the Time+Tide office! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Ming Watches Model 17.06 Monolith
Incoming! If there’s a happier word in the watch enthusiast’s vernacular, GaryG is not sure what it is. After several months in the queue, he recently received the happy news that his Model 17.06 Monolith from the Ming Watches team had arrived. Here he shares why he bought it and what he thinks of it after wearing for several months.
Quill & Pad
‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux - Reprise
SIHH 2019 provided an instructive example to Tim Mosso of architecture’s low-key role in watch design relative to well-worn tropes. For him it was the third year in a row that parts of Geneva’s Palexpo felt like a Southern California cars-and-coffee event. But there are a few watch brands that do architecture well, and Tim takes a closer look at some of them here.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling?
Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020
Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...
Time+Tide
Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party.
I don’t know about you, Australian watch lovers, but I’ve always looked lustfully, enviously and with more than just a faint sense of sadness at all the things the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) get up to over there. Somewhere. Beyond the sea. Not only in America, mind you. Wherever they go with their … ContinuedThe post Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Murph
Released in 2014 to critical and commercial success, Interstellar tells the story of a Joseph Cooper, an astronaut recruited to save humanity by travelling through wormholes to seek new, habitable worlds. He’s played by Matthew McConaughey, while Jessica Chastain takes the role of Murphy, his daughter. A key scene in the film has Cooper communicating across space and time with Murphy via the seconds hand of her wristwatch, which jumps in Morse code. The wristwatch prop was a custom Hamilton, but it took the brand five years to take advantage of the big screen opportunity – though Hamilton did recruit the movie’s production designer to create a sci-fi wristwatch – with the Khaki Field Murph finally launching last year. Though based on the standard Khaki Field Auto 42 mm, the Murph edition is notably different. To start with, it has a retro look with faux-vintage luminous markings and cathedral hands. And perhaps more importantly for the aficionado, the Murph has no date function; in fact, it is the only automatic model in the Khaki Field line without a date (the other models sans date are all hand-wind). In short, the Murph is a good-looking, military-style watch for relatively little money. The dial of the Murph is surprisingly well conceived for an inexpensive watch. The layout is balanced and well proportioned, with both hands being just the right length. Because the Super-Luminova used is a dark parchment, the dial has strong vintage aspirations that don’t q...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Watch Boutique Distractions During the Gooding Car Auction in Scottsdale
You see, the Gooding auction took place next to the Scottsdale Fashion Square Mall. It was there that these words came out of my mouth: “Hey Colleen, let’s go check out some of the boutiques at the mall.” Now I’ve probably said each of those words before but never in that particular order. Of course, Colleen knew that the only boutique I would willingly seek out is a watch boutique.
Deployant
Review: TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition Ref. CAW211V.FC6466
We take a close look at the TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1976 Limited Edition CAW 211V, with hands-on analysis and historical perspectives of the original.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster
Rolex vs. Omega is an age-old debate that has seemingly raged since time immemorial in the horological community. However, the watches in question have always been the Rolex Submariner vying against the Omega Seamaster, or the Rolex Daytona vs. the Omega Speedmaster. And while the arguments for and against these aforementioned watches could go on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rolex Yacht-Master Vs. Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence
The left field of watchmaking has yielded many unusual and exotic time displays, but few have the same sense of function and purpose as Ressence. In fact, the essence of the brand is its name, which is short for the “Renaissance of the Essential”. Perhaps a key ingredient of the renaissance is the fact that its founder is not a watchmaker. Ressence was founded a decade ago by Benoît Mintiens, a Belgian industrial designer whose past work included trains, newsstands, and luggage. From the start, the identity of Ressence was crystal clear. The brand’s debut line of watches had dials that relied on a planetary gear mechanism to indicate the time (as well as a crown, which has since been removed from all its watches). Akin to a 21st century regulator-style display, it was an avant-garde way of displaying time, while still surprisingly intuitive. Benoit Mintiens Even more surprising was the longevity of the planetary time display, which has since spawned various iterations, often accompanied by novel innovations ranging from the oil-filled time display in the Type 3, to the more recent Type 2 that’s a mechanical watch that can set itself thanks to an electronic module. When Benoît visited Singapore in late 2019, I got a chance to explore his design philosophy, especially on how his background in industrial design helped inform his unique approach to watchmaking. He also delved into the subtleties of a Ressence wristwatch, and dropped a few hints about a new time ...
Time+Tide
Superstar DJ Carl Cox remixes Zenith; feat. Lume
If Zenith’s showing at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week is anything to go by, 2020 could well be the year of the eccentric collaboration for the Swiss watchmaker. Not only were members of the press treated to the unveiling of the handsome, if slightly odd, Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 Land Rover Edition, but they were … ContinuedThe post Superstar DJ Carl Cox remixes Zenith; feat. Lume appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019
Watches on bracelets are great for a multitude of reasons. They are both durable and comfortable, relatively easy to adjust and aren’t ruined if you go swimming with them … all pointing to it being hard to go wrong if you get a watch with a bracelet. Besides, it’s always better to buy your watch … ContinuedThe post 13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.