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New: Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter
Chronoswiss releases a new interpretation of their Delphis jump hour, retrograde minutes watch in a novel case. Announcing the Delphis Firestarter.
Results for Above the Date Window
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SJX Watches
Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
As Urwerk has matured as a brand, its products have evolved to become more wearable. The recently launched UR-150 Scorpion embodies this evolution. The UR-150 incorporates the familiar Urwerk time display – but with a retrograde twist – but in a sleeker, curved case that hugs the wrist. Initial thoughts The UR-150 continues the emphasis on wearability established by the compact UR-100. The UR-150 is bigger and bolder, but despite its size, the curved case profile allows it to sit well on the wrist. This contrasts with many of Urwerk’s past models, which tended to have wide, flat case backs that were less ergonomic. The curved case also looks good, especially since it continues the line of the domed sapphire crystal. This design moderates the hyper-mechanical aesthetic of many Urwerk models, leaving the UR-150 a little more elegant, albeit in a war machine-like way. In some ways, the UR-150 seems descended from the UR-100. It has a similar tonneau shape, but more streamlined. And it has the signature satellite disc wandering hours, but enhanced with a retrograde minute hand (that’s no doubt borrowed from the UR-210/220/230). The combination of the retrograde minutes with the satellite disc display is notable for Urwerk as the brand historically kept this time display on its simpler watches, while the top-of-the-line satellite cube display was accompanied by the retrograde indicator. This leaves the UR-150 as something of a bridge between two distinct lines of the br...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review
Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here. The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...
Worn & Wound
Omega Mixes Bronze-Gold and Titanium for their Latest Seamaster
In 1995, I was 22 years old and sitting in the theater, eagerly awaiting the start of the new James Bond film. It had been six years since the last movie featuring Timothy Dalton, marking the longest gap between Bond films up to that point. I was already deeply invested in collecting watches. Still, the internet hadn’t emerged yet, and I had no idea I was about to encounter one of the timepieces that would forever change how I viewed Omega watches. It took me four more years and two more Brosnan Bond movies to finally acquire a blue Seamaster Professional. Since then, I have owned many more, including a recent blue Diver 300M. While most people’s entry into the Omega universe is the Speedmaster, mine was the Seamaster, which remains my favorite line to this day. When the No Time to Die edition was released with its redesigned, slimmer case, titanium construction, classic aluminum bezel, and boxed sapphire crystal, I sensed that we would be in for a treat with future releases, and I was right. Next, Omega presented the Seamaster 60th anniversary in stainless steel, followed by a standard black-on-black version and a brushed steel dial variant featuring a titanium relief bezel. However, Omega had one more Seamaster release for 2024-the Seamaster Diver 300M in Titanium and Bronze-Gold. As the name implies, this is a grade 2 titanium Seamaster with Bronze-Gold crowns and a Bronze-Gold bezel with an oxalic anodized aluminum insert. Omega’s Bronze-Gold is a unique alloy ...
Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Cherry Blossom Inspired Astron References
Cherry blossoms have long been associated with Japan – and for good reason. These delicate little blossoms contribute an astounding $2.7 billion into the economy with over 63 million people (a number that includes both tourists and those living in Japan) viewing them annually. There’s even a word for this annual custom – hanami, meaning to stroll along, enjoy the blossoms, and nature’s transience. Now, isn’t that beautiful? Though the visual appeal of cherry blossoms might just be one of Japan’s strongest soft-power exports, you have to admit it’s a little overplayed. Yes, I know what I’m saying is a little controversial, but hear me out. After a while, the same old white and pink flowers on a skinny little twig just loses any impact of its natural beauty. You see it so much on towels, keychains, and stationery, one becomes blind to the fact that cherry blossoms are beautiful. It’s a sort of visual desensitization, if you ask me. That’s why I’m quite happy to see the two new models from Seiko being released early next year as Astron GPS Solar 2025 Limited Editions, the SSH171 and SSJ029. Both references are inspired by sakura, but not in the traditional sense. Instead of focusing on spring strolls during the daytime, Seiko has produced two watches that look to the starlight as their guiding principle. In doing so, we have two tonally rich watches that aren’t so clichéd. Like all well-designed Japanese products, the watches in this limited edition s...
Hodinkee
Just Because: Tiffany & Co. Acquires Titanic-Linked Pocket Watch For $1.97m - A New Record For Most Expensive Piece Of Titanic Memorabilia
And one of the most expensive time-only pocket watches ever sold.
Quill & Pad
Mythbusting: 3 Persistent Patek Philippe and Rolex Myths Debunked
The rise of the internet, and the consequent evolution of the watch-watching community, has inevitably amplified the phenomenon whereby certain objects have come to exert an extraordinary hold over the collective imagination. Here, Colin Alexander Smith debunks three watch myths circulating widely and freely online and in print concerning former French president Nicolas Sarkozy's Rolex and Patek Philippe, the Khanjar Rolex Sea-Dwellers, and what in fact Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were wearing on their wrists as they summited Mount Everest.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Simon Brette's Chronomètre Artisans Rose Is An Already Great Watch, All Grown Up
Forget the sophomore slump; there's just more phenomenal watchmaking from Brette's second commercial release. We talk to him about the new piece and what he's learned from the last year and a half.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Chronomètre Artisans by Simon Brette ‘Rose Gold’ Limited Edition of 50 Pieces (already sold out)
Simon Brette unveils the “Rose Gold” edition of his GPHG-winning Chronomètre Artisans timepiece: it's a sensational harmony of the warm rose/red gold case and intense-black 'dragon scale' dial.
Deployant
New: Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold Edition
Simon Brette unveils the “Rose Gold” edition of his iconic Chronomètre Artisans. This is a new edition to the watch is already pre-sold (!)
SJX Watches
Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets
Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball. Initial thoughts Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value. Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light. Tennis racquets Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season. These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinc...
Quill & Pad
Top 5 Least Useful Horological Complications: and They are All Still Awesome!
In the real world, some complications are pretty useless. And that's not saying they aren’t cool. Here Joshua Munchow runs through his top 5 most useless complications and why they are simultaneously cool.
Deployant
New: OMEGA Speedmaster Pilot
The Omega Speedmaster Pilot is a distinguished addition to Omega's Speedmaster collection, tailored specifically for aviation enthusiasts. This new Speedmaster Pilot takes inspiration from the very first Speedmaster born in 1957.
Quill & Pad
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription Reviewed by Tim Mosso
Everyone loves a comeback. Except Lance Armstrong. And Mike Tyson. And probably Michael Schumacher, too. Ok… comebacks don’t always work out, but the 2023 Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription is a comeback candidate from a brand name with an illustrious past.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Budget Watches Of 2024
With prices seemingly ever on the rise, can you still get a great watch for under $1,500?
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Looking Back On 2024 - Part 2 With Rich and Mark
Chatting over the last year in watches, what we liked, the big moments, and a whole lot more.
Worn & Wound
Complecto and Bulova Launch their Second Limited Edition Collaboration
Following an initial partnership in 2023 that produced a limited edition (and sold out) version of the Jet Star, Bulova and Complecto have teamed up once again for a trio of limited edition variants of the Super Seville, all with stone dials. The Bulova and Complecto partnership is a natural one: both are quintessentially New York, and this release is meant to pay tribute to the city that both call home. It’s also a showcase for the Super Seville, a watch we’re pretty big fans of at Worn & Wound for the way it combines a very specific 1970s aesthetic with some amazing Bulova tech, as well as a run at the stone dial trend, one that we continue to find fascinating in the way it’s been embraced by enthusiasts in watches at lower price points. According to Bulova and Complecto, the watches in this limited edition collection are meant to be a reflection of their shared values, including inclusivity, self-expression, and resilience. Anyone who has been to a Complecto event or had a conversation with founder Jason Gong understands how important inclusivity is to his brand – it’s truly the mission of the company. Complecto was founded to spread a love of watches and the culture around them to groups who have been traditionally ignored by big watch brands and to bring greater diversity to the community. Community building and a welcoming environment are essential to Complecto, so partnering with Bulova on watches with stone dials, traditionally a flourish reserved for t...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists as we cover the best watches from high-end independent brands in 2024. Expect to see an exotic group spanning a nice variety of designs and complications. Of course, five watches do not do justice to the many ones we could have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024 to read the full article.
Deployant
TGIFriday: Trip report Salon Deluxe Vietnam with new video
We were one of the the Media Partners to, and attended the Salon Deluxe Vietnam event from December 6 to 8, and bring you this video report.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5101: Magnum Opus With Concealed Ten-Day Tourbillon
The Patek Philippe 5101 ten-day tourbillon isn’t perfect: it’s not notably shock tolerant, there’s no lume, and one could fault its 25-meter water resistance. But most important of all for Tim Mosso is that he can’t afford it! However, since its supernova 2003 debut, the 5101 has established a towering reputation that is, if anything, insufficient to convey the eye-watering beauty and milestone status of this sinuously shaped machine.
Monochrome
Introducing - Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours
Whether you appreciate or not the styles and designs, which can sometimes be very striking, Artya, the brainchild of Yvan Arpa, is one of the most creative brands around – even though recently, the Stairway to Heaven collection has proved less polarising. Not shy of using unconventional materials for his cases and dials, Arpa is […]
Monochrome
Introducing - A New, Bold Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT
Launched about 15 years ago but for a long time reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the Citizen Series 8 made its entrance to the world back in 2021 with the 870, 830 and 831 models. A range of modern, daily oriented sports watches with a trendy angular style, the collection has grown with seriously […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary
The Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is the most complicated serial-production watch in the Voutilainen catalogue. Modelled on Kari Voutilainen’s first-ever watch, a pocket watch made in 1994, the anniversary tourbillon is a wristwatch that is typical Voutilainen in style and substance. The design is classical while the quality of execution is exceptionally high. Initial thoughts The anniversary tourbillon is predictable in a good way – it looks, feels, and functions as you would expect from a Voutilainen. Even at arm’s length the quality of the watch is apparent. The guilloche on the dial is refined and tidy, while the movement decoration is impeccable. Zoom in and the movement decoration gets even better, which is unsurprising since Voutilainen likely offers the best movement decoration that’s done in an artisanal manner yet at scale (the brand makes perhaps 100 watches a year). The overall quality of the watch is outstanding, and the movement especially so. The details of the bridges are perfectly executed, while the steel parts are elegantly shaped and flawlessly polished. As impressive as the decoration itself is the fact that Voutilainen can do this consistently across all its watches for a reasonable-ish price – a testament to the company that Mr Voutilainen has built. As a wristwatch, however, the movement lacks the scale of the pocket watch. As such, the wristwatch movement feels a little constricted compared to the pocket watch.Everything is clos...
Worn & Wound
Hublot’s Latest Art Piece is a Big Bang Tourbillon Designed by Samuel Ross
Those who know me personally, and perhaps those of you who regularly tune into the podcast and read my little ramblings here on the blog, know that over the course of the last year I’ve become somewhat disillusioned with large luxury brands and what I perceive as a general stodginess among the big luxury groups. I’m finding that there’s just a lot more innovation and original thought – at every price point – in the independent sphere. Not only that (because it’s really not surprising), but indies are truly having a moment. They aren’t just more interesting and “better” in most metrics than big group brands, they are peaking, and perhaps in the midst of a new golden age of boundary pushing watchmaking. But, of course, there are exceptions. There are still mass market brands that get me excited by taking risks and doing things that are inherently not mass market, and Hublot has long been Exhibit A. This is a brand that was unfairly maligned for a long time by the enthusiast community, but as the pendulum has swung from straightforward sports watches to more creative and inspired designs, many have come to appreciate the pure originality at Hublot. If I didn’t know better, it would be easy to assume they were an indie themselves. Something that Hublot does better than just about any other brand, indie or otherwise, is position their watches as works of art. There’s probably a real debate to be had about whether watches, particularly modern watches prod...
Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-230 Polaris
Urwerk continues to push the aesthetic envelope with a new version if the 230 series, now using brilliant white: the ur-230 Polaris,
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vintage Mathey-Tissot Type 20 Big Eye Chronograph
This is the story of GaryG's pursuit, and eventual capture, of a classic vintage watch: a Type 20 “big eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
Hodinkee
House Of Craft: Actor Keegan Allen With Ben Clymer On Creating Hodinkee, Building A Following, And Re-Thinking Watches
The Talking Watches alum interviews Ben to kick of UBS House of Craft in NYC.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Urwerk UR-230 Polaris ceramic: a Tougher Shade of White
With its white case, carved from a block of proprietary fiberglass-enhanced ceramic, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris opens a new color horizon for the series, a polar perspective.
Quill & Pad
Watchcharts November 2023 Secondary Watch Market Update
With the Overall Market Index now at a two-and-a-half year low, the broad-based nature of the declines across the market continues: Rolex prices are now also at a 30-month low, while Patek Philippe has hit a 26-month low, and Audemars Piguet is at a 27-month low.