Deployant
New: Armin Strom Tribute2 Copper Edition
Armin Strom marches on with their Tribute collection by adding a new model with a grattage textured copper dial plate which they call the Tribute2.
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SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275
Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861
Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...
Hodinkee
Business News: New CEOs Of Jaeger-LeCoultre And Vacheron Constantin Announced
Jérôme Lambert returns as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre while Laurent Perves is announced as the new man at the helm of Vacheron Constantin.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Nine Vintage Heuers To Watch At Sotheby's This Week
A dive into the 'Heuer Champions' portion of the catalog, including many with ties to motorsport.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Parmigiani L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse: A Minute Repeater Striking Cathedral Gongs, No Dial Side Indications, and Packed with Arts and Crafts
The art and craft is so important to the Parmigiani L'Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse that there are no dial side time indications. In fact, there is no dial side dial!
SJX Watches
Book Review: ‘Time on My Hands’, a Watch Collector’s Memoir by Mitch Katz
Time on My Hands: A Collector’s Journey in a World of Watches. By Mitch Katz. Tasfil Publishing. US$24.99 in paperback, US$10.89 for e-book Thanks to the growing popularity of watch collecting, there is no shortage of books one can find about watches. Even mainstream bookstores often have a few in stock, while specialty bookstores across the world, from Powell’s in Portland, Oregon to Tsutaya in Daikanyama, Tokyo, have entire sections devoted to watch books. But the watch publishing industry is dominated by brand books, like MB&F;: The First Fifteen Years, that celebrate a particular brand or model. Perhaps because watch collecting is still a nascent hobby, there have not been many (if any) memoirs written about watch collecting. And while Time on My Hands by Mitch Katz is highly educational at times, it succeeds most as a personal story about one man’s long journey down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. Initial thoughts As hard as it is to find a book written by a fellow collector, it’s rarer still to find one that recounts events that formed the basis of one’s own watch education. I first became aware of Mr Katz in 2008 when I joined the Purists forum, which is also where I became acquainted with SJX. When I was at university, the forum served as my nightly reading, and the wisdom I gained reading Mr Katz’s posts, and those of fellow Purists, helped me get up to speed on the many nuances of the watch industry. In Time on My Hands, Mr Katz shares the ups and...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch
There’s a saying “To know your future, you must know your past”. The new KUOE Sombrero collection exemplifies this very concept. KUOE is a Kyoto, Japan-based brand that looks for inspiration from all kinds of sources-from the colors found within a distant galaxy of stars that’s over 13 million years old to referencing ancient architecture here on planet earth. KUOE also looks to the future by adding their very first dive watch to expand their collection. Called the Sombrero 90-011, named after a galaxy that’s 29.35 million light years away, it comes in 5 out-of-this-world colorways that draw inspiration from each of these various points of inspiration. Just as the Sombrero galaxy stands as one of the most resilient and captivating formations in space, the KUOE Sombrero 90-011 is designed with exceptional durability, featuring 200 meter water resistance, an AR coated sapphire crystal, a Miyota Cal. 9039 movement, and a magnetic-resistant case. This watch, engineered for the most extreme conditions, mirrors the vastness and strength of its celestial namesake, crafted with precision and care in KUOE’s Kyoto workshop for those who seek both form and function. The 38mm case and warm, subtle tones make the Sobrero 90-011 a clear, down-to-earth for your next everyday wearer. The post Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green”
Following the success of the Czapek × Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color. Despite […] Visit Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity
Soon to go on the block at Sotheby’s upcoming New York sale is the very first Citizen 100th Anniversary Special Limited Edition Pocket Watch, numbered “001/100” on the case back. The penultimate lot in the sale that will take place on December 6, the pocket watch is being sold to benefit 1% for the Planet, the environmental charity whose founders include the entrepreneur who established outdoor clothing brand Patagonia. Included with the pocket watch is a special edition copy of Citizen: The Essence of Time, a book that details the brand’s history over the past century. The book is numbered “001/100” to match the watch. The cal. 0270 Launched earlier this year to mark the centennial of Citizen’s first-ever watch, the anniversary pocket watch was inspired by the original 1924 timepiece. Though it has a vintage-inspired aesthetic, the pocket watch is entirely modern in construction and materials. The delicately textured dial is made via electrodeposition, while the case is polished titanium. More notably, the case houses the in-house cal. 0270, a newly developed manual-wind movement with a sophisticated construction that includes a free-sprung balance. After the automatic cal. 0200, this is the second mechanical movement unveiled by Citizen, continuing its progress in developing a stable of high-end in-house calibres. (We reviewed the pocket watch in detail last month.) Estimated to sell for around US$10,000-15,000, the pocket watch “001/100” will be sold a...
Fratello
Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont
Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Ref. 5208R Grande Complication Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The Patek Philippe 5208R is exceptional, even by the perception-warping standards of a watch industry insider like Tim Mosso and here he explains why.
Fratello
Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization
In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models
Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point
5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! 5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! The post 5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Amida Digitrend in two new colors
After a re-entry into the world of watch enthusiasts, the AMIDA Digitrend-the iconic 1970s Swiss 'casquette' watch and now a GPHG 2024 'Petite Aiguille' nominee-is making a comeback. Revived in two fresh versions inspired by its late-70s origins, the Amida Digitrend can now be found in silver, black and gold models.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: At An International Meetup For Vintage Heuer Collectors
Over three days in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the 2024 Heuer Collector's Summit brought together the brand's most ardent fans.
Monochrome
Industry News - Shakeups at Richemont - Jérôme Lambert Back as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Perves named CEO of Vacheron Constantin
Swiss luxury powerhouse Richemont has just announced yet another round of shifts in top management positions, with new direction for two of its most prestigious watchmaking brands, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-Lecoultre. Effective January 1st, 2025, the nominations of Jerôme Lambert and Laurent Perves follow the appointments announced earlier this year. Nicolas Bos was promoted from […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save
It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. The post Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Business News: Jérôme Lambert Returns to Jaeger-LeCoultre as CEO
In an unexpected twist, Jérôme Lambert will return to the top job at Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), some 11 years after he left the same role. Mr Lambert’s first spell as chief executive of JLC, which lasted from 2002 to 2013, was a major success. During the 11 years, the brand developed into a contender in haute horlogerie while maintaining its affordable appeal in simpler watches. He then moved on to run Montblanc for almost four years until early 2017, before rising to a series of senior jobs in Richemont, the luxury group that owns JLC. In 2018 Mr Lambert was named chief executive of the group, but in June 2024 he was reassigned. Mr Lambert became chief operating officer, while Nicolas Bos succeeded him as chief executive. In some ways, Mr Lambert is a JLC lifer – he began his professional career in 1996 in the finance department of JLC. When he was tapped to lead JLC in 2002, he was one of the youngest chief executives in watchmaking. The two chief executives who ran JLC after Mr Lambert never quite led the brand to the same heights, so many will be hoping his comeback also signals a return to earlier glory.
SJX Watches
Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin
As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.
SJX Watches
Business News: Voutilainen Expands Brodbeck Guillochage
Having stepped in to acquire Brodbeck Guillochage in 2022, Voutilainen has announced the opening of a new, larger facility in Fleurier that is poised to become a new centre of excellence for guilloché. Retaining the name Brodbeck Guillochage in honour of its founder Georges Brodbeck, the new facility is located in what was once the local watchmaking school of Fleurier, the town adjacent to Voutilainen’s hilltop headquarters at Chapeau de Napoléon. The new home of Brodbeck Guillochage in Fleurier Initial thoughts This is welcome news for a number of reasons. First, it will help perpetuate the legacy of Mr. Brodbeck, ensuring that his life’s work will continue to have a positive impact watchmakers and lovers of fine objects for years to come. Second, the steady hand of Kari Voutilainen, whose accomplishments as an entrepreneur rival his skills as a watchmaker, should help the new enterprise navigate potential industry downturns in the future. Finally, the impressive scale of the operation should be a magnet for talent, improving the economic prospects for young artisans interested in guilloché. A new centre of excellence A self-taught guillocheur, Mr Brodbeck founded his eponymous firm in 2004, gradually building up a stock of more than 30 antique engine turning machines, each restored to working order by Mr Brodbeck himself. In 2023, Mr Brodbeck was awarded the Prix Gaïa, arguably the highest award in the Swiss watch industry, for his contributions to the preservati...
Monochrome
In-Depth - Inside Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ Impressive, Newly-Opened Rolex CPO Collection
When it was officially announced back in late 2022, the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Programme (also known as RCPO) made some noise. The fact that the world’s largest watch brand officialized its interest in second-hand, certified and authenticated watches proved that this segment of the market was never to be neglected anymore. It took a little […]
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: I Guess I Was Wrong About IWC’s Portugieser ‘Eternal Calendar’
The GPHG picked the hyper-accurate secular perpetual calendar (one of the world's rarest complications) as the best watch of the year, while I was originally less than glowing. With an open mind, I take a second look.
Fratello
Discover More Black Friday Deals On Fratello
We have continued to add more items to our Black Friday selection in our shop. You can find everything from caps to straps, pocket knives, and, of course, watches! We’re offering a discount of up to 30% on certain products. More Black Friday deals on Fratello: Pouches & Straps You will find several more straps, […] Visit Discover More Black Friday Deals On Fratello to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity
For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...
Monochrome
First Look - Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up Again for Striking, New Régulateur Models
Louis Erard continues to expand its portfolio of special editions made with renowned watchmakers and designers – such as Kudoke, Alain Silberstein, Cédric Johner or Massena LAB. The latest instalment is a collaboration with Vianney Halter, resulting in two versions of the new Régulateur Louis Erard, which draw inspiration from Steampunk aesthetics and showcase Halter’s […]
Deployant
New: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
The 2nd collaboration of Louis Erard & Vianney Halter takes the distinctive styling of the Régulateur and fusing it with the Antiqua.