Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Triple Scale Chronograph Ref. 5975P Reviewed by Tim Mosso
Patek Philippe’s 175th-anniversary collection contained a bumper crop of memorable models and the Ref. 5975 triple scale chronograph was the quirkiest.
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Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe’s 175th-anniversary collection contained a bumper crop of memorable models and the Ref. 5975 triple scale chronograph was the quirkiest.
Deployant
Blancpain has recently expanded its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line with three new models, each a exemplary daily wearer for the man about town. These new additions include two time-only versions and a flyback chronograph, all housed in ceramic cases.
SJX Watches
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...
Time+Tide
The final Studio Underd0g Pizza Watch is a unique one, being auctioned off for charity with a best of both worlds dial.The post A Pizza Unique for those who can’t make up their mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition For Hodinkee reflects everything Chopard does best.
Teddy Baldassarre
One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...
SJX Watches
With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...
Teddy Baldassarre
The best bit of trivia I’ve heard about the Ball Watch Company, founded by its eponym, Webster Clay “Webb” Ball in 1891 — and one I have admittedly kept alive in conversations over the years — is that the expression “on the ball” actually has its origins in the world-renowned accuracy of the railroad watches the company produced in the early 20th Century. The legend, likely apocryphal, has it that “on the ball,” which today denotes a general sense of efficiency and promptness, once referred to a train being dependably on time thanks to the conductor’s use of one of Webb Ball’s meticulously adjusted pocket chronometers. Whether or not any of this is true, what cannot be disputed is Ball Watch’s impressive track record in making tool watches — initially for keeping the railways that knitted together the modern, interconnected United States running smoothly, and eventually pieces engineered specially for divers, pilots, firefighters, and even storm chasers. Ball’s latest release is the Roadmaster M Model A, a timepiece that ushers a mechanical alarm function (that’s the “A”) into the lineup for the first time. As a diehard fan of the somewhat niche complication (I sing its praises and explore its storied history here), I was excited when the Ball Watch team sent me the heads-up on the model several months ahead of its debut and even more eager to get my hands on it for a review. As with most Ball watches, the case of the Roadmaster M Mode...
Worn & Wound
As the title implies, I am in no way, shape, or form a seasoned vet when it comes to astrophotography. I am lucky enough to have a close friend who also dabbles in hobby photography and has done a fair bit of nighttime shooting. So, when he sent me a random text message asking if I would be interested in backpacking during the next new moon for star photos, I jumped at the opportunity. This is not some epic story about plunging into the backcountry for some never-before-seen magical shots, but hopefully will provide those of you looking to try astrophotography a bit of a baseline. Just to get it out of the way, I will include my primary gear below and the camera specs I started shooting at. At the end of this article, I will also include a recommended gear list of other items we found useful. One other side note for those interested: I experimented on our second night with a different camera body and different lens, so stay tuned for that comparison. Gear Camera: Sony A7R IV Lense: Sony FE 14mm f/1.8 GM Tripod: Benro SystemGo Plus Aluminum Tripod Tripod Head: 3-Way Geared Head Settings ISO: 3200 Shutter: 13” F-Stop: 1.8 Self Timer Single Shot 2 Sec (to avoid shutter shake) With all of that listed out, go ahead and set up your camera with the widest lens you own, set your aperture to the lowest number possible, and go out and start shooting the night sky. A new moon was the key to the whole trip. The first lunar phase, a new moon occurs when the moon and sun have th...
Time+Tide
We take you through the intriguing history of an oft-overlooked German manufacturer.The post How Junghans went from making straw hats to becoming a global power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These premium 24mm-wide straps are perfect for those looking for an OEM-quality strap for their chunky dive watch.The post Need a strap for your Panerai? Don’t PAM-ic: Artem has you covered appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Australia has been treated to quite a few limited-edition Seikos recently. What's next?The post What’s next for Seiko’s Australian limited-edition adventures? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
For the tasting menu, you can choose Élégante, Souverain, or Astronomic. For the wine, you've got options. But for the watch, you're definitely going to want to choose the "red."
Deployant
DEPLOYANT The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 collection is updated with a new version in platinum. Our commentary on the novelty..
SJX Watches
Continuing its annual tradition, Vacheron Constantin (VC) reveals the year’s Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind watches that are both technically complex and decorated by skilled artisans. The line-up includes two distinct tourbillon offerings, Le Temps Divin Ode to the Four Guardians featuring marquetry dials inspired by mythical animals of East Asia, and Le Temps Divin Armillary Tourbillon Greek Mythology, a pair of double-axis tourbillons featuring hand-engraved decor. “Divine time” Known for its pursuit of traditional artisanal techniques like enamelling, wood marquetry, and engraving, the Geneva watchmaker integrates such decorative techniques into its Metiers d’Art and Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are as much works of art as they are timekeepers. This year’s collection is titled Le Temps Divin, or “Divine Time”. Though united by a tourbillon regulator, the new models are each very different, both in the thematic inspirations as well as the decorative and technical execution. Le Temps Divin refers to the mythological concepts of time from different cultural perspectives. The quartet of “Ode to the Four Guardians” tourbillons is inspired by four mythological creatures of East Asian culture, each representing one season. The Armillary Tourbillon pair, on the other hand, focuses on the ancient Greek god of time, the titan Chronos. The fabled creatures of the East Ode to the Four Guardians draws inspiration from the four seasons and the...
Worn & Wound
I think it’s possible that when it’s all said and done, no brand will have had a more consequential 2024 than Bremont. I can imagine a watch environment three or four or five years out into the future where this brand is fundamentally changed (even from how we see it now, after what most would agree is a tumultuous recent period), and we can pinpoint the start of that change in 2024. Specifically, at Watches & Wonders 2024, when the brand unveiled its new look, and the watch world, almost in unison, shook their heads. We wrote about Bremont’s big rebrand when it happened, after getting a look at the watches themselves. It’s the single article we’ve published this year that I find myself being asked about over and over again. The Bremont rebrand comes up at local watch meetups, in Instagram group chats, and even in conversations with enthusiasts at our Windup events this year. People still have strong opinions about Bremont’s new direction. Predictably, something else has happened: more people are seeing these watches in person, and public opinion is shifting accordingly. I stand by my original assessment, which is mostly just total confusion and a desire to wait and see what happens next. I thought the new Supermarine references I saw were quite unremarkable, but the Terra Nova references, particularly the simple time only model, had some promise. I still like the way this looks in the wrist shot I took in the Bremont booth at Watches & Wonders, even if the...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
Deployant
In this week's installment of "Oldies But Goodies", we take a look at yet another six rare and discontinued watches from the yesteryear.
Fratello
Welcome back to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Grab a coffee, take a nibble of your croissant, and warm up your voting finger. Daan and Thomas are back at each other’s throats this week. Today’s theme? Casquette-shaped watches with roots in the 1970s. How about that for a niche? Don’t go complaining that this is apples […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Vs. Amida Digitrend to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Second made and first sold, this Tourbillon Souverain is now the most expensive Journe and the most expensive wristwatch by an independent watchmaker.
Time+Tide
Lots of high-end wow this week from the likes of AP, Biver and Breguet, as well as exciting affordable models from Hamilton and Tissot.The post New releases from Biver, Audemars Piguet, Breguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe is a limited-edition timepiece designed to commemorate the Vendée Globe, a grueling solo sailing race around the world. The independant Swiss watch maison, that built its name supplying accurate, reliable marine chronometers to the world’s navies in the 19th century, will serve as an Official Partner and the Official Timekeeper of the Vendée Globe, the World’s largest solo, non-stop, unassisted round the-world sailing race.
Time+Tide
We chat with the talented and insightful Björn Altmann about all things illustration, design and trends in watches.The post Watch Illustrations and Typography with Björn Altmann appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We are back with another installment of Back to Basics, the series aimed at newcomers to our beloved hobby. This time, we focus on watch etiquette. What are the rules of engagement when it comes to watches? Of course, you can do whatever you like. Rules are there to be broken, right? Still, it is […] Visit Back To Basics: Is There Such A Thing As Watch Etiquette? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 V3 brings new colours for the third edition of a fan-favourite team-up.The post Worn & Wound launches third WW75 collaboration with Timex, with two affordable limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Released just yesterday, Christiaan van der Klaauw collaborated with Sincere Fine Watches for the latter's continuing celebrations of its Platinum Jubilee.
Monochrome
Elka Watches is a relatively young brand built on a historical, defunct Dutch name, which was relaunched a couple of years ago by Hakim El Kadiri. Despite having no connection with the defunct Amsterdam brand, he wanted to pay tribute to the old Dutch brand and bring back the flair of the 1960s with modernised […]
Worn & Wound
Taking photos of watches is hard. I’ve been trying for months to get better at it, and only occasionally do I end up with a photo that I think “works” in any meaningful way. The degree of difficulty in shooting these little objects is kind of off the charts. They are, of course, reflection machines, with light bouncing off of cases and crystals in ways that, for an amateur, can be difficult to control. And as any watch lover knows, the magic of this stuff is in the details, and it just takes a lot of skill to capture things that are so vanishingly small. So, I have a lot of respect and admiration for my colleagues and peers who make something so difficult look relatively straightforward. Atom Moore, for as long as I’ve been in the hobby, has been near the top of my and many other’s lists of top watch photographers in the game. His approach is completely unlike any other watch photographer I’m aware of, and the results, as they say, speak for themselves. Atom, by now, has dedicated his career almost exclusively to watches. He’s been at it since 2015, and has worked with brands like Grand Seiko, Autodromo, and J.N. Shapiro. While some of his work with brands is what many of us in the industry would call “product photography,” it tends to be executed at a higher level. His photos for J.N. Shapiro’s Resurgence launch are a great example – the crisp macros reveal all of the detail you’d hope to see in Shapiro’s immaculately finished cases, dials, and...
Hodinkee
Stephen McDonnell knew that MB&F;'s first-ever chronograph could have a flyback function; it just took a little while to make it. But when they did, they couldn't just make the same watch as before. We put the two head-to-head.
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