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Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

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Time+Tide

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection Mar 24, 2023

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model

Breitling releases new Premier B01 Chronographs with a slimmer profile Six models, five new dial colors, available in stainless steel and gold The collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of their Premier chronographs If there’s one thing Breitling is synonymous with, it’s their history of innovation with chronographs and chronograph movements. According to Breitling, after decades … ContinuedThe post The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden We’re Mar 20, 2023

[Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden

We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...

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Worn & Wound

Nivada Grenchen Breaks Mar 17, 2023

Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph

Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...

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Time+Tide

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Mar 15, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing

I am not going to beat around the bush here. With the holy trinity ushering in the era of crazy demand for integrated sports watch designs, and their unobtanium status in terms of purchasing at retail, the search for alternatives has grown and grown over the last decade. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is constantly a part … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

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SJX Watches

Seiko Introduces Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...

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Worn & Wound

Mido Revives Mar 7, 2023

Mido Revives the Ocean Star Decompression and Adds a Local Jumping Hour GMT and a Whole Lot of Color

Mido had a bonafide hit on their hands in 2020 with Ocean Star Decompression Timer, a colorful skin diver based on the original Ocean Star divers from the 1960s. The brightly colored sectors allow divers to time decompression stops by sight, but for those of us who tend to spend most of our time topside, it was just a fun way to incorporate some color into a style of watch that sometimes veers toward the sober. The viral success of that release (it sold out quickly and seemed to dominate Instagram for a brief period of time) makes it somewhat surprising that Mido hasn’t returned to the format more frequently in the years since, but here we are with what I think many would argue feels like a natural follow up.  The Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer takes the colorful sector layout of the Decompression Timer and applies it to another complication altogether. The execution is actually rather simple, even if the dial appears to be extremely complicated. In the dial’s interior, we have the same decompression table as seen in the prior version of the watch. But at the perimeter, Mido has added a 24 hour scale, and instead of a traditional dive bezel, we get a rotating city ring for time indication. Importantly, the bezel maintains a minute scale, with 10 minute intervals marked off in the midst of international cities, which means you could still use this watch as a dive tool if you needed to.  The dial is a lot of fun, and if you were drawn to the original, there’s a ...

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Time+Tide

Hublot collaborates Mar 6, 2023

Love at frost sight: Hublot collaborates with artist Daniel Arsham to make a 20-metre sundial in the snow

When it comes to their ambassadors, Hublot is known for their stable of sporting superstars that have included Usain Bolt, Novak Djokovic and Diego Maradona. But over the last decade, the brand have also consistently aligned themselves with modern artists, making watches with the likes of Richard Orlinski, Shepard Fairey, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, Takashi Murakami and more. What’s … ContinuedThe post Love at frost sight: Hublot collaborates with artist Daniel Arsham to make a 20-metre sundial in the snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Tissot Adds Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Adds a Blue Panda Dial to the PRX Chronograph Lineup, Plus a Rubber Strap for the PRX Powermatic 80 is Finally Here

Readers, we’re here. Watches & Wonders is later this month, which means we are fully entrenched in new release season. We’ve seen some big news come across our desks since the beginning of the year, but if recent patterns hold, we can expect a flurry of activity from brands that do not participate in the year’s biggest trade show showing off their first round of novelties in the weeks ahead, likely in an attempt to bring eyeballs to their new watches before the world turns its attention once again to what’s happening in those cavernous Palexpo halls. Swatch Group brands are part of the watch world that takes a pass on Watches & Wonders, so we’ve been seeing an uptick in activity recently from group brands in the way of new product announcements. We already covered news of one Tissot new release this week, and now we have another in the PRX family.   The PRX line has quickly become a centerpiece of the larger Tissot catalog. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that are affordably priced, have an attractive 1970s aesthetic, and have surprisingly accomplished finishing when examined in person. The PRX chronograph, in particular, has struck a chord with collectors, and has to this point been released in a handful of attractive, but traditional, colorways, while the three hand variants of the PRX offer slightly more variety.  The new chronograph introduced recently by Tissot is a striking blue panda configuration, with a silver dial and dark blue subdials ...

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SJX Watches

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Mar 2, 2023

Tissot Debuts PRX “Ice Blue” Powermatic and “Blue Panda” Chronograph

Since its 2020 launch, the PRX has been a crowd favourite for making the currently-fashionable integrated-bracelet aesthetic affordable. Now Tissot has announced new additions to the collection: first the base-model PRX Powermatic 80 with an “ice blue” dial, and also the PRX Chronograph with a blue “panda” dial. Initial thoughts The commercial success of the PRX made additional variants inevitable. Fortunately, the new additions are crowd pleasers. The colourways are familiar so neither is novel but both give enthusiasts what they want. Save for the dials, both models are intrinsically identical to their predecessors. The prices remain the same, leaving them competitively priced and strong value.  The shade of light blue chosen for the Powermatic 80 caters in part to the ongoing craze for robin egg blue and also brings to mind the colour of the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Day-Date in platinum. For me, this is a solid update to the model that will undoubtedly be a strong seller. Also, the Powermatic 80 now has the option of a rubber strap as an alternative to the steel bracelet (but the strap has to be purchased separately). This is the perfect solution for someone who wants a strap without seeking an aftermarket offering. As for the chronograph, the blue “panda” dial works well. The blue accents provide subtle contrast with the vertically-brushed silver dial, while being more modern than the original “panda” model that had gold hands and markers. I still wis...

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SJX Watches

Cartier Tank Francaise Last month Feb 24, 2023

Hands On: The Cartier Tank Francaise

Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also  the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch. Initial thoughts When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar. So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model). The large model in steel The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visu...

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Worn & Wound

H. Moser Debuts Feb 22, 2023

H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal

Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture.  The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match.  The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...

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Time+Tide

Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 Feb 22, 2023

A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health

Editor’s note: The below story is a submission by Time+Tide reader Chris Antzoulis, who was moved to write it after listening to the Milestone Watches episode on About Effing Time. Here, he shares the story of what he has dubbed his “mental milestone watch”. Ever since I was a kid I loved watches - my … ContinuedThe post A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary Feb 16, 2023

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes.  Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

A. Lange & Sohne Feb 16, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon: A Machine With Heart And Soul - Reprise

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

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Time+Tide

Feb 12, 2023

Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime

It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”.  Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Omega Speedmaster Feb 8, 2023

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

There’s a lot of talk among watch collectors of “signature watches.” Watches that essentially serve to define a brand, or even an entire category. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is a perfect example of a signature watch. Can you even imagine Omega without it? You can’t – it’s integral to the whole operation. They have other collections, sure, but they live and die with the Speedmaster.  Does Oris have a signature watch? I walk by an Oris authorized dealer in my neighborhood just about every day, and there’s a giant decal on the side of their building prominently featuring an Oris Aquis. For as long as I can remember, this authorized dealer has had this kind of marketing in this specific place, always featuring an Aquis. Is the Aquis Oris’s signature watch? I think for many collectors it might be. It’s a modern tool watch (with an integrated bracelet, well before the hype) that has specs making it competitive with virtually any well known diver, but thanks to the aforementioned bracelet it has something unique about it that can only be Oris.  It’s possible that to an even wider swath of customers, the Divers 65 is the Oris signature watch. I can remember when this watch was first reissued in a modern context, and it was something of a phenomenon. It put Oris on the map for many enthusiasts entering the hobby at the beginning of a boom time for the entire industry, and remains a key watch in the vintage throwback category that virtually every brand...

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Worn & Wound

Norqain Gets Adventurous Feb 6, 2023

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq

I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane.  I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...

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Worn & Wound

Parmigiani Fleurier continues Feb 3, 2023

Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36

Parmigiani Fleurier continues to iterate on their distinctive Tonda platform, dialing it in a bit further with each step, and the latest example of the Tonda PF 36mm is a near perfect distillation of the concept. We first saw the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor last year, and found a lot to love in the small details. We also found the dial to be expansive on the wrist, almost in its own way when it came to wearability thanks to the wide integrated bracelet. The Tonda PF in 36mm guise addresses nearly every issue we had with the Micro-Rotor, but welcomes a different movement in the process. The Tonda has come a long way, and this is the watch that has us most excited about its future.  The modern Tonda PF is often mentioned in the same breath as contemporaries like the Vacheron 222, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato… you get the idea, but I’d submit that this watch sits in a slightly different realm to those (also excellent) watches. The Tonda PF has a grace that’s lacking in most high-end integrated steel sport watches. In fact, I wouldn’t call the Tonda a PF a sports watch at all. This is leisure wear at its finest, and will look better than most dressed up to the nines. There is no pretense of adventure lifestyle behind the scenes with this one. The Tonda PF in 36mm confronts this fact head on, and kind of dares you to place it into any specific genre. This specific example features a “steel sand” colored dial that does...

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Worn & Wound

Junghans Gives You Lemons You Feb 3, 2023

When Junghans Gives You Lemons, You Get Two Limited Editions Celebrating the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships

Around this time of year, most of us here living in the North East of the U.S. are looking forward to the weather making a turn. But for the good folks living near the alpine valley of Planica, Slovenia, and ski enthusiasts across the globe, the opposite is true. The more snow, the better. That’s because in the next couple of weeks, the quiet valley of Planica will come to life as they’ll host the 54th edition of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships. Fans and supporters alike will bear witness to high-level winter athletes from all over the world as they’ll compete in competitions such as ski jumping, cross country skiing, and nordic combined. Time is an important factor across the board here. A second too slow could be the difference between second place or championship glory. Or even the slightest bit of bad timing could put a skier in a really bad spot, especially if they’re cutting in and out downhill at 80 mph, or landing a jump as high as 90 feet. Either way you look at it, it would behoove you to have an accurate watch, whether you’re a competitor, or just a spectator keeping score at home. The Official Timekeeper of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships isn’t a brand that you, or I would expect – and that brand is Junghans. When I hear the name Junghans, my thoughts immediately go to thoughtfully designed dress-casual watches, like the Max Bill or the Meister. But the Schramberg, Germany based brand is more than meets the eye. Turns out they’ve b...

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Worn & Wound

Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Jan 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Thor R.

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thor R. isn’t afraid to get away from the well beaten path. These watches offer a unique perspective on collecting, and come to the conclusion that you can indeed find a healthy variety within the confines of a similar genres. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I appreciate high quality, but I also value understated style. My collection is striking, but not gaudy or too blingy. I don’t get many compliments or comments, but when I do, they’re always from “watch people” , not fashionistas. Looking to add one more big boy later in life, but for now, this is great. Bear in mind, these were all purchased north of the 49th parallel at either the manufacturer or the closest AD, so I’m guessing/converting to USD. Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Always loved the face, and the grind dial aspect with grey and white colouring spoke to me. I have # 440/500. This is my primary EDC as it’s easy to read, looks great with everything, and is highly trustworthy. Like me, it’s ugly yet effective.  Marathon Red maple leaf JSAR – $1,200 I love the true tactical vibe of this watch. As you can tell, I like big heavy watches, and watches that are legitimately used for purpose. As a Canadian, it’s also nice to support a Canadian company that produces great quality, highly durable timepieces. This thing is a tank, and survived a nasty fall down a fl...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Breitling Navitimer Limited Edition Jan 25, 2023

Introducing: A Breitling Navitimer Limited Edition To Celebrate An Aviation Milestone

Sure it's another limited edition, but it looks good.

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer unleashes Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases

TAG Heuer gives us another helping of the Monza, now in a carbon case and bold colours. New Sport, Golf and Titanium Connected watches mark the brand’s continued evolution of their smart watch collection. The Aquaracer Solargraph line continues, now with a Grade 2 Titanium bead-blasted case. The Carrera celebrates its 60th with a 600-piece, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Ming Dec 25, 2022

The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know”

Talk about a twist. Here’s a move I’m willing to bet very few people saw coming: a stainless-steel luxury sports watch from revered Danish/Swiss watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. This couldn’t have been more of an out-of-left-field development, considering that the brand, whose origins stretch all the way back to 1773, has long been known for its … ContinuedThe post The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Omega Speedmaster 321 Dec 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster 321 is the grail-Speedy of the modern catalogue

Omega’s main point of distinction in the modern era is their METAS-certified Master Chronometer co-axial movements. They have superb build qualities inside and out, and are wonderfully decorated – albeit industrially. But, the Omega Speedmaster 321 was an incredibly well-received novelty upon its debut in 2020 thanks to its heritage qualities rather than a future-forward … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster 321 is the grail-Speedy of the modern catalogue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Dec 15, 2022

Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde

While Blancpain is best known for its retro dive watches and triple calendars, the brand’s catalogue includes a surprisingly broad range of complications, especially for a brand of its scale (but the fact that the brand is part of Swatch Group clearly helps). One of its most interesting recent complications is the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, the first Blancpain watch with either a jumping hours or retrograde display. Despite the lengthy name, the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, from now on simply THSMR, is a simple watch on its face, but one executed in an elaborate manner with details that speak to its quality. The dial is champlevé enamel with a symmetrical time display and “floating” flying tourbillon, while the movement has a six-day power reserve and bridges finished with guilloche. Initial thoughts Unlike most of Blancpain’s complications that formal and busy, the THSMR is an elegant watch with an almost minimalist design. The fired enamel dial has a figure-of-eight display that gives it almost perfect symmetry, except for the charmingly quirky hour window that is off-centre but just right. And up close the tourbillon appears to be “floating” thanks to a clear sapphire lower bridge. It is a fairly large watch as most Blancpain watches now are, though it’s not too thick at just over 11 mm high. But the size is grounded in its mechanics: the cal. 260MR is a sizeable movement with an impressive six-day power r...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Dec 4, 2022

Pre-Owned Picks: Six Underrated Oddballs To Combat The January Blues

Flat fours, more Olympic action, and a high-beat anniversary.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Cortina Watch” Nov 9, 2022

Hands-On: Cartier Baignoire Allongée “Cortina Watch”

Continuing with the series of limited editions for its 50th anniversary, Singapore retailer Cortina has just debuted a new take on one of Cartier’s most overlooked timepieces, the Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”. A limited edition of just ten watches, the new Baignoire Allongée retains the classic form, but with a subtle twist in the form of a “50” in Cortina’s corporate colour, while the case is tastefully set with diamonds. Initial thoughts Cartier has evidently realised a new generation of watch enthusiasts has discovered its classic shapes, explaining its frequent reissues and reinterpretations of famous models. The new Baignoire Allongée is classic Cartier, both in terms of form and design, as well as the discreet details that make it a limited edition. When I first saw this Baignoire Allongée, the first thing that came to mind was its elegant, timeless look. It could equally be a mid-century watch or even one from the 1920s. At the same time, as is often the case with Cartier’s form watches, one immediately notices how different it is from other bejewelled watches, which are often flashy and loud. Notably, the Baignoire Allongée Cortina retails for just under US$40,000, an eminently reasonable ask considering its diamond-set case as well as in-house movement. While it is expected that this limited model will immediately sell out, the Baignoire Allongée is unique enough that I hope it will return, particularly in a ...

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