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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage SJX Watches
Cartier s Heritage Having been Jun 20, 2022

Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage

Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847. He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history. Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier. We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders]. Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you. SJX: The Crash is incredible of course. PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived. The Crash Tigr...

Patek Philippe Nautilus: One Analysis Of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus One Analysis Jun 19, 2022

Patek Philippe Nautilus: One Analysis Of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years

How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication Quill & Pad
Jun 17, 2022

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication

Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.

Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2022

Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans

There’s a storied history of thrill-seeking actors jumping behind the wheel of a fast machine. There was Steve McQueen and his escapades on his motorbike and Paul Newman who spent decades racing in American series. They’re known as much for their acting prowess as they’re known for their love of racing. So it’s no surprise … ContinuedThe post Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Long rumoured Jun 16, 2022

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet

Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...

VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer CEO announces “first Jun 15, 2022

VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches

TAG Heuer have established themselves as the go-to brand for luxury smartwatches with each subsequent edition of the TAG Heuer Connected improving both form and function. When considering modern technology, it’s impossible to have a conversation about recent advancements without broaching the subject of NFTs and cryptocurrency. NFTs have seeped into seemingly every walk of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Crash “London” Jun 14, 2022

Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This

A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) Time+Tide
Oris launches Jun 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots)

A strong selling point for Oris watches are their value-driven pricing. The majority of their watches are priced under $4,000 USD, their Sellita-driven pieces the most approachable (closer to $2,000 USD) and their in-house calibre watches not much more (just below $4,000 USD). But the accessibility of their pieces is not limited to competitive pricing, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause SJX Watches
Cartier Model A” Mystery Clock Jun 11, 2022

Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause

While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board SJX Watches
Breitling Jun 8, 2022

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board

Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...