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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Limited Editions at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 23, 2022

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Limited Editions at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

We covered the independents and complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction thats happens on May 27 and 28, so now we look at highlights from a recent crowd favourite: A. Lange & Söhne. Revered for its high-quality movements and impeccable quality, the modern-day brand has only been in operation since 1994 but has managed to build a diverse body of work. A good selection is on offer in the auction, ranging from the mega complications to the simple (albeit not particularly affordable today). Here we round up six limited edition Lange watches in the sale, including a pair of rare Lange 1s to the second-most-complicated Lange ever made, the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Merite, along with a pair of Handwerkskunst editions. Bidder registration and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIVis available here. Lot 816: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Sincere edition  Since its debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has become an icon of the brand that remains relevant today. After almost three decades, the concept of the watch and its design essence remain intact. Only few other watches have attained such cult status, putting the Lange 1 alongside timepieces like the Calatrava and Royal Oak. The present example is a limited edition of only 100 pieces produced in 2003 for Singaporean retailer Sincere. The dial is extremely unusual as it features two different guilloche patterns, instead of the typical smooth opaline finish found on most Lange 1 watches. Even other Lange 1 models...

EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think Time+Tide
Panerai May 22, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think

EDITOR’S PICK: I recently streamed Guy Ritchie’s The Gentlemen that delivered a welcome return to the director’s gangster comedy roots. Amid a stellar cast that includes Matthew McConaughey, Charlie Hunnam and Colin Farrell, Hugh Grant puts in a scene-stealing display as a cockney-accented private investigator. But I was distracted less by his beard than what Grant had on his … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: From Panerai to Piaget, Hugh Grant’s watches are a whole lot more alpha-male than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Incredible One-Of-A-Kind OAK Collection Premieres At London Design Museum On May 19, 2022 Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe timepieces once owned May 17, 2022

Incredible One-Of-A-Kind OAK Collection Premieres At London Design Museum On May 19, 2022

A very special new exhibition opens this week at London’s Design Museum: the OAK Collection (“OAK” stands for “one of a kind”). This exhibition comprises unique and ultra-rare museum-quality timepieces that have been amassed by a single collector over the last 40 years, including the largest number of Patek Philippe timepieces once owned by Henry Graves, Jr. But that is not all.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos May 15, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”

Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “Gold Flux” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 12, 2022

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “Gold Flux” Dial

Launched in 2021, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was one of the simpler models in last year’s lineup but easily appealing. It is the first Lange 1 to have a dial made of aventurine glass, or “gold flux” as Lange labels it, a material rarely found on the brand’s watches but always popular when it makes an appearance. Conceived as a mens’ watch in 1998 – the average dress watch was still about 35 mm then – the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a feminine watch. It’s basically the Lange 1 for ladies and the base model for a variety of female watches, often in pastel colours accented with mother-of-pearl or diamonds. The new Little Lange 1 continues the theme with its sparkly dial, but it stands apart from recent models in several ways; it feels different, perhaps even masculine. We take a close look at the Little Lange 1 to weight its appeal. Initial thoughts Thanks to off-centred yet logical displays, the Lange 1 is one of the most distinctive offerings from the German watchmaker. And the starry, aventurine glass dial, along with the moon phase, create a charming, slightly whimsical appeal that isn’t present on the standard models, which are formal and serious looking. Despite the shimmering, reflective dial, the new model is understated on the wrist, thanks to its dark colours and white metal case. These tone down the sparkle of the dial, which comes from the metallic inclusions in the glass. More appealing but equally understated are the star-shaped ...

Gérald Genta’s Personal (And Unique) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402 Auctioned By Sotheby’s For Record-Setting CHF 2,107,000 Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref May 11, 2022

Gérald Genta’s Personal (And Unique) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402 Auctioned By Sotheby’s For Record-Setting CHF 2,107,000

“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on May 9, 2022

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Hands-on Review

What we love: Good size for most wristsModern design and unobtrusiveGreat looking and long-lasting green and blue lume What we don’t love: Some may find embossed case back can be a little irritating on the wristLess than the standard 38hr power reserve on the AutomaticSome wearers may find the large crown tends to stick out more and can irritate the wrist/back of the hand Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.0/10 Wearability: 7.0/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 After reviewing the TAG Heuer 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph the last week, I was eager to see how this new era of TAG translated to the newly released Aquaracer Professional 200 – a modern take on the classic Aquaracer line. Whilst the watch is in no way in the same league as the Autavia, nor should it be at the price point ($4,000 AUD for the Auto, $2,950 for the Quartz), I came away with mixed feelings about this newly released line. A New Chapter In The Story The Aquaracer story began in 1978 when Jack Heuer introduced the Heuer Reference 844. Designed for men and women who loved outdoor sports and adventures in nature – on land or in the water – the watch defined a new high-performance category of versatile wristwatches that could be relied on in extreme conditions. The Aquaracer name was added in 2004 and continued the legacy of the family’s six design codes: a unidirectional rotating bezel; a screw-down crown; water resistance to at least 200 metres; luminous markings; a...

“I still can’t digest.” Auctioneer and proper bossman Eric Ku responds to $1.5m result for Cartier London Crash 😱 Time+Tide
Cartier London Crash 😱 “I May 8, 2022

“I still can’t digest.” Auctioneer and proper bossman Eric Ku responds to $1.5m result for Cartier London Crash 😱

“I thought on a great day it could do a million,” says Eric Ku, co-founder of Loupe This, the auction platform that just sold a Cartier ‘London’ Crash for $1,503,880 USD, the most expensive Cartier watch ever sold at auction. The watch was part of ‘Cartier Week’, which we wrote about here. “On the night, … ContinuedThe post “I still can’t digest.” Auctioneer and proper bossman Eric Ku responds to $1.5m result for Cartier London Crash 😱 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A unique set of a Porsche 911, Chaykin Joker and NFT sold for a bargain 300K at Ineichen Auction Time+Tide
May 7, 2022

A unique set of a Porsche 911, Chaykin Joker and NFT sold for a bargain 300K at Ineichen Auction

We recently covered the fact that on April 30, Ineichen Auctioneers was set to host a single-lot timed auction for a one-of-a-kind bundle. Up for grabs were a unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker XXX watch, a Joker-themed Porsche 911, and an NFT artwork of the car driving through Gotham city. The package embodies the pioneering spirit … ContinuedThe post A unique set of a Porsche 911, Chaykin Joker and NFT sold for a bargain 300K at Ineichen Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Patron Of Art Homage To Victoria & Albert Limited Edition: Impressively Regal Writing Instruments Quill & Pad
Montblanc Patron May 5, 2022

Montblanc Patron Of Art Homage To Victoria & Albert Limited Edition: Impressively Regal Writing Instruments

The new Montblanc Patron of Art Homage to Victoria & Albert limited edition pen collection comprises two 4810 and two 888 editions, with one honoring Victoria and the other Albert within each edition. The LE100 and the LE8 editions each honor the royal couple together as one pen. Nancy Olson explains what makes them so special.

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece May 5, 2022

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique

François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Daniel Roth May 3, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva, with F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, and Voutilainen

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...