Hodinkee
Four + One: West Hollywood Dealer Ken Jacobs On Embracing Vintage Style For 40-Plus Years
The Wanna Buy A Watch? founder shares some of his favorite vintage watches and a few thoughts on a lifetime of dealing.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding “Rubberclad”
Audemars Piguet’s oversized sports watch line-up gains a pair of entry-level models with the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37 mm and 43 mm. While the current versions in the catalogue are the colourful (and polarising) Music Edition, the new duo are no-frills with clean designs and muted colours. The 37 mm model combines light grey with 18k pink gold, while the 43 mm model is stainless steel and blue. Both feature “rubberclad” bezels for a more robust and sporty finish that harks back to the original Offshore Rubberclad of some two decades ago. Initial thoughts While some recent Royal Oak and Offshore launches felt over the top in design, the new Selfwinding pair op to keep it simple. They preserve the key elements of the design, namely a chunkier case with crown guards, but keep the styling clean. The low-key design is attractive, especially for someone who wants an Offshore without any of the fuss. That said, the rubber-covered bezel means the signature Royal Oak finishing is absent, though the covering makes it arguably more resistant to bumps than metal. Although the Offshore has often been a testing ground for different materials, such as carbon composite, ceramic, and rubber coating, the designs usually retain a metal alloy bezel finished with the high-end polishing technique traditional for the Royal Oak that results in the trademark play of light on the contrasting finishes. Rubberclad The 18k pink gold model is compact at 37 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thic...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Standard Review: An Ultra-Affordable, Versatile Watch Short On Charm
Reviewing the Timex Standard 40. Check out original photography, specs, and insights from an owner along with alternative recommendations.
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 86 - Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal!
In Episode 86 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three exciting releases from the past couple of weeks. Yes, it’s summer, so things are slowing down, but there has been a surprising amount of cool stuff to keep us interested. Timex surprised us with a space-age recreation of the Enigma, a fun, stylish, and affordable timepiece. Omega plays a game of metals with their newest bronze gold (and silver) watch to celebrate the 2024 Paris Olympics. And Furlan Marri goes for a spin with a vintage case shape. Check it out below and be sure to like and subscribe. Worn & Wound invites you to an excellent event on Saturday, August 17th in Oceanside, California. We’ve teamed up with the James Brand for a summer pop-up hosted in the James Brand’s new retail location. Running from 12pm to 6pm, the pop-up will include a showcase of their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products, as well as the last 10 units of their recent automatic GMT collab with Timex. Several excellent watch brands will also attend, including Artefkt, Brew Watch Co., Belmont Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac. It’s free, open to the public, and going to be a great time. Once again thats Saturday, August 17th from 12pm to 6pm PST at the James Brand HQ – 426 S Coast Highway, Oceanside, California. We hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - 5 Recently-Launched Sports GMT Watches to Travel This Summer
Summer is a time for adventures. For many of us, summer is synonymous with holidays, travels and sunshine. While basically every watch enthusiast will have his definition of the perfect summer watch, one style in particular makes a lot of sense; the functional, water-resistant sports watch with GMT function. Ready to cross borders, capable of […]
Fratello
Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko
This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.” The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, […] Visit Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we are pitting two heavy hitters against each other. Jorg will defend the honors of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante. Thomas, in the other corner, will fight for the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. After several weeks of attainable tool watches in the showdown, this is a battle between two […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Robotic Pants that Help You Climb, Tactile Turn Goes Synthwave, and Doctor Doom’s Comic Legacy
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Tactile Turn’s Latest Seasonal Release If you read this column regularly, you know that we’re huge fans of Tactile Turn’s regular seasonal releases. There are special runs of their pens, often in whimsical colorways with fun themes, that aren’t limited, per se, but have open order windows for a given period of time, allowing anyone to get in on a pen that feels special. The newest release is actually a pair of pens under their side click platform, “Day” and “Night” versions of “Vice.” According to the brand, the inspiration here comes from the synthwave aesthetic often associated with Miami Vice (both the classic TV show and the underrated Michael Mann film starring Jamie Foxx and Colin Farrel). These pens have a ton of personality and they’re available now via the Tactile Turn website. Motorized Pants to Help You Up (and Down) a Mountain Gear Patrol had a story recently that you might think was meant to be posted on April 1, but it’s actually very, very real. Outerwear brand Arc’teryx and Skip, a startup out of the Google ecosystem, have introduced a ...
Deployant
New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Gold
Blancpain presents the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chronographe Flyback models in full Red Gold. Featuring a case and bracelet in 18K red gold, these striking timepieces exude opulence and grandeur, making a bold statement with their rich hue and imposing presence.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A: Patek’s First Production Steel Dress Watch in Decades
Patek Philippe surprised Joshua Munchow with the 2019 launch of the Weekly Calendar, a new dress watch in stainless steel and the brand's first steel-encased production model since the 1970s. The 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar is a mix of modern technology, classic style, and a couple of unique touches that help it stand out from Patek Philippe’s typical offerings, making it one of his favorite watches from the Genevan giant in quite a while.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Omegas, A Collectible Swatch, and a (Possibly) Issued Military Watch
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster Going to start off this week with a nice vintage Omega Seamaster with the classic ‘fat lugs’ case. The seller states the case is 38mm, but that must include the original clover leaf Omega signed crown, making the case about 35mm, which sounds right. The whole watch exhibits some wabi sabi, but this survivor looks original and genuine to me. There is some patina on the two-tone bullseye dial and the steel dauphine hands, but if you’re a fan of that look this might just be for you. So often Seamasters like this are polished and redialed, which is such a shame. This one has a caliber 354 bumper automatic that looks clean and the seller states it runs. Really a nice, genuine and unmolested example of the classic 1950’s Seamaster. View auction here Swatch “Lancelot” Vintage Swatches must be making a comeback because I keep seeing them for sale! What a fantastic piece of 1980’s nostalgia they are. This model is the Lancelot from 1986, and it’s in great original condition. Complete with the original band and box. Seller states it has a new battery and runs well. If you’re a Gen X’er like me, these bring back so many memories! Neon clothes, spiky ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin's Green Dial, Pink Gold Overseas
One of the most versatile integrated bracelet sports watches goes green.
Worn & Wound
Mid-Sized Dive Watches For Small To Medium Sized Wrists
Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water; it can also protect against dust, humidity, sweat, and even baby drool, prepared to handle any adventure. We have curated a selection of medium-sized dive watches suitable for small to medium wrists now that the trend for oversized watches has waned. We even believe that individuals with larger wrists may find them appealing. Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water;...
Teddy Baldassarre
First Impressions: Unimatic Toolwatch UT1 GMT
Unimatic took a step in a new direction this summer with the release of a new collection simply called Toolwatch. The collection consists of four watches across two styles, and represents a push into function-driven design. Each of the watches meet the MIL-STD-810 standard used by the US Department of Defense, and boast an internal protection system designed by Unimatic. It’s clear the Italian brand is making a serious move into true tool-watch territory here, and the watches themselves have a number of unique elements on their side, but how do they stand up to real-world, practical use? We went hands-on to find out. The UT1 GMT is one of four variations released within the Toolwatch collection, utilizing a fully indexed rotating bezel, and featuring a GMT disk and date complication. As with all Unimatic watches, the case is the most distinctive feature of the UT1, and it falls into very familiar territory. The design language that Unimatic has developed for its cases is geometric and confident, with fixed planes that meet at set angles, and no real curvature in sight. At 41.5mm in diameter, and 49mm from lug to lug, this case has a muscular presence, but never feels overbearing. This is a case that invites a closer look at a variety of angles, and there’s always a dramatic view that awaits. It’s not graceful, but it works just fine on the wrist, all things considered. This is a watch that wears its personality on its sleeve, and at nearly 14mm thick, it won’t be...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Omega Olympic Games Special Editions
Another Friday, another list! This week, we decided to skip our best-of-2024 lists and focus on watches commemorating the Olympic Games. With the Paris Olympics in full swing, it’s a good moment to look at some of Omega’s best Olympic releases. But while Omega has been the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Omega Olympic Games Special Editions to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Non-Vintage Champagnes: They are Getting Better and Better!
Non-vintage champagnes were consider second tier to their vintage superstars, but that's now changed. Ken Gargett takes a look at the history of non-vintage champages and shares some of his favorites.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”
We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Daniel Boulud, World-Renowned Chef And Restaurateur
The Michelin star chef brings us into his award-winning restaurant to show a few of his watches.
Worn & Wound
(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Fratello
#TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666
According to an early ’50s print ad for the Zodiac Autographic ref. 666, “No motorist would buy a car without a petrol gauge.” It’s amusing but true, I can’t help but think it’s such a witty way to put a bug (or watch) in your mind. Zodiac stole my heart a few times in the […] Visit #TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Two New Grand Seiko U.S. Exclusive Releases - SBGA507 & SBGA509
Grand Seiko pays tribute to the transitioning sky over Lake Suwa with its new regional releases.
Quill & Pad
Five Recent Near-Perfect Perpetual Calendars From Patek Philippe, Lange, IWC, Baume & Mercer and Jaeger-LeCoultre
One of Martin Green's favorite complications is the perpetual calendar, aka QP. While he knows that an annual calendar can do almost the same for a lot less, he is still mesmerized by the human ingenuity of being able to a miniature mechanical device that can even deal with leap years.
Worn & Wound
Formex and Scottish Watches Team Up for a New Limited Edition Essence
The Scottish Watches Podcast has been disrupting the airwaves for over half a decade with their often sarcastic, frequently biting, but always fun brand of humor, honesty, and fairness. They present unfiltered opinions and conversations with various guests, from Metropolitan Police officers to the wife and daughter of arguably the most famous watch designer of our time. Likewise, Formex has been setting its own course since 1999, but it wasn’t until 2018, with the launch of its Essence line, that they truly disrupted the market. Their offerings showcase a level of quality, craftsmanship, and attention to detail that is rarely seen at this price point. If a collaboration between these two entities sounds like a match made in heaven, they have a special treat for you. In fact, you will feel as if the dial has been pulled directly from the sky. The Scottish Watches x Formex “Skye” limited edition, based on their bestselling Essence 39, brings an aventurine dial to the sports watch line. This unique dial was inspired by the misty Isle of Skye in the Scottish Highlands, where they say you can witness the Aurora Borealis on a clear night, and follows other limited edition Formex pieces featuring exotic dials made from meteorite, malachite, and more. Formex didn’t just stop at replacing a standard dial with aventurine glass. They went further by infusing it with tiny luminous dots that glow when exposed to ultraviolet light, setting themselves apart from other brands us...
Deployant
New: Hanhart Special Edition: Fly Navy Aerosphere
Hanhart releases a new special edition: the Fly Navy Aerosphere. Two references, each limited to 150 pieces. Eath in either fabric strap or steel bracelet.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a union of almost everything that is associated with A. Lange & Söhne, from the Lumen treatment to the case metal. Appropriately enough, it was conceived to mark a milestone: the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, the brand’s trademark chronograph. While the impressive watch has nearly all of Lange’s signature elements, is it truly great? Initial thoughts The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is ambitious because it is an all-in-one limited edition. The watch is big, heavy, and flawlessly executed. It feels like an object of exceptional quality, and lives up to expectations under a loupe. It captures Lange as a brand in tangible terms. The long name is descriptive and sums up the key elements of the watch, almost all of which are unique to Lange. While the earlier versions were already extremely complicated, this goes a further by incorporating uniquely Lange livery with the Lumen dial and Lange’s own Honeygold alloy. Essentially everything synonymous with Lange can be found here. There’s the Datograph chronograph movement, outsized date, a hacking tourbillon with a cage that will be familiar to fans of German watchmaking, the tinted-and-luminous dial, and the case in Lange’s proprietary gold alloy. The only distinctively Lange features missing are Handwerkskunst decoration and a chain and fusee, either of which would have hoisted the price past the million-dollar mark. But the latest...
Deployant
New: Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Introducing the Lange & Heyne and introducing the 7 piece limited edition Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Quill & Pad
Cyrus Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon: Exotic Yet Surprisingly Practical
The Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon is, in many ways, a landmark model for Cyrus, marking the start of a new chapter.
SJX Watches
Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025
In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025. Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...
Monochrome
Portrait - Remembering Walter Lange of A. Lange & Söhne, on his 100th Birthday
Originally founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, Germany, A. Lange & Söhne has become over the past years one of the most important watchmakers of the Saxon region. The story of Lange Uhren GmbH is, however, not as simple as it seems and despite subsequent generations of the family keeping the brand […]