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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch Mar 22, 2022

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch

One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches Mar 21, 2022

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials

Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 19, 2022

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise

In 2021 MB&F; celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine collection and, fittingly, introduced a brand-new model to mark this milestone. While that watch is definitely increditastic, Joshua Munchow takes us on a journey through all the models, looking at key points and how the concept has evolved over the years before ending up with MB&F;'s piece for the anniversary, LMX.

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials For 2022 From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw While Mar 16, 2022

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials For 2022 From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw

While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!

Hands-On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Mar 14, 2022

Hands-On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum

A surprising combination of mechanics and electronics, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the latest watch to emerge from La Fabrique du Temps, the manufacture acquired by luxury giant in 2011. The Quantum is a new take on the brand’s signature complication – a hidden LED ring lights up the 12 cubes of the jumping hours. Initial thoughts The Spin Time is an original and distinctive concept that doesn’t get recognition it should, largely due to the fact that Louis Vuitton is all about fashion and leather goods. And the complication took more than a decade to mature into what it is. The Spin Time was launched in 2009 as a regatta countdown, which wasn’t especially interesting (while also being expensive at the time). It was only with the Spin Time Air that the complication became truly noteworthy, but the length of time required to get there meant some momentum was lost. I like the complication, though it is also hindered by the modest base movement (more on that below). Basically a Spin Time Air with a dose of levity, the Quantum doesn’t take itself too seriously, but preserves all the mechanics of the Spin Time complication. It’s a smart take on the light-up mechanical watch, the first one that manages a long-lasting bright light. Though the aesthetic is largely two colours, it is a loud design, especially with the oversized “LV” on the dial. But that is exactly the point, and I do like the over the top nature of many of Louis Vuitton’s ...

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result] SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” Mar 13, 2022

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...

Penfolds Bin 60A 1962: Australia’s Greatest Wine Ever (Or Certainly A Serious Contender) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 12, 2022

Penfolds Bin 60A 1962: Australia’s Greatest Wine Ever (Or Certainly A Serious Contender) – Reprise

Best Australian wine of all time? There are a few options, but for Ken Gargett there's a clear winner: Penfolds Bin 60A 1962, a wine that was never commercially released. And whether the Bin 60A 1962 is indeed the GOAT of Australian wine hardly matters. He does suggest, though, that if the opportunity to try it ever comes up, cross oceans to do so. You’ll never regret it.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5057G “Cortina Mar 10, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2022

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces

Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction of 2022, aptly entitled “La Vie en Rose,” takes place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. As the name of this auction professes, all 40 of the watches offered are encased in pink – “rose” – gold. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five of the less “mainstream” independent offerings and one rarity from an established brand that will certainly interest connoisseurs.