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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 “pink Jan 21, 2022

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia

Continuing the steady pace of personnel changes since French telecoms tycoon Patrick Drahi acquired Sotheby’s in 2019, the auction house has just announced an overhaul of its watches and jewellery departments in Asia. The chairman of Jewellery and Watches for the region is Wenhao Yu, formerly of Beijing-based Poly Auction. The jewellery department will be led by Regine Ngan, while the watch department promoted from within with Joey Luk being elevated to the top job. The trio will report to Josh Pullan, who was appointed  Head of Global Luxury Division just last year after almost a decade as a manager in Sotheby’s digital and e-commerce departments, which no doubt explains Sotheby’s volume of online-only auctions. Left to right: Regine Ngan, Wenhao Yu, and Joey Luk A veteran of watch auctions despite her relative youth, Ms Luk was most recently Head of Sale, having been recruited to Sotheby’s from Phillips in 2018. Ms Luk succeeds Sam Hines who will “take on an advisory role for Sotheby’s worldwide Watches sales efforts”. Mr Hines led Sotheby’s to a record year in 2021, where watch auctions totalled over US$150 million. Sotheby’s also claimed the title of most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in 2021 with the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” once belonging to an Egyptian prince that sold for US$9.57 million (pictured at top). He will be leaving Sotheby’s with a bang – his closing act will be a single-owner sale of 41 Patek Philippe wr...

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Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

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Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

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Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris Quill & Pad
Jan 19, 2022

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris

Some wine books are absolute must-haves for any serious, wine-obsessed drinker/collector. Jasper Morris’ 'Inside Burgundy,' released just over a decade ago, is right at up the top of that list. Put simply, it was as thorough and thoroughly competent an examination of a region and its wines as exists anywhere. And Morris has just released an updated second edition, which Ken Gargett reviews here.

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Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

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Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s new ambassador but Jan 12, 2022

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy

Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals.  Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne Quill & Pad
Jan 11, 2022

Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne

When Ken Gargett first got interested in wine, he was warned about Burgundy. It was made abundantly clear that he (by which he means a bunch of friends with far more experience in wine than he had) drank Bordeaux. But times change and the greatest wines he has tasted have been Burgundies. Here he relates the region's fascinating history, including a historical war of words with Champagne.

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In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...

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Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2022

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only

Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...

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Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jan 7, 2022

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater

Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...

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