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Fratello
The Seiko Motorist is a watch that doesn’t pop up for sale often, so once an opportunity came, I didn’t hesitate much. It’s not perfect, but it is good enough. It’s fairly worn but aged in a way that gives it a unique character. And it’s green! Some Seiko watches are not easy to find. […] Visit #TBT Driving With An Individualistic Seiko Motorist to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2021, Bianchet debuted in the watch industry with the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork, establishing the brand’s design language and paving the way for future releases – like the 2023 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. In 2023, Maserati returned to the world of open-wheel single-seater motorsport after a hiatus of 65 years. However, instead of the roar […]
Monochrome
We’ve said this on so many occasions already… In the world of mechanical wonders, nothing is as closely related as cars and watches. Both are fueled by passion, both are mechanical (or we want them to be mechanical), both are objects to be collected and enjoyed as the perfect toys for boys (or girls). There’s something […]
SJX Watches
You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...
Quill & Pad
This is the story of a daily-wear watch, the Tsunami by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. It’s not a “beater” as it’s too beautifully made for that description, and some folks justifiably take offense at characterizing a five-figure expenditure in those terms. But it is a watch that GaryG suspects that he will be wearing a lot and in a variety of settings.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we wrap up our Watches and Wonders 2024 coverage with a debrief episode featuring Nacho, Thomas, and Lex. The guys take some time to go over some brands (and their corresponding releases) that we missed in episode one. They also discuss the general mood […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The surprising, and to some shocking, Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata created for Only Watch 2024 is over the top in both aesthetics and complexity. Based on the brand’s automata wristwatch that’s available either as a Chinese mask or vanitas skull, the Einstein Automata has the air of a mad scientist’s creation. Depressing the pusher at two o’clock starts the automata, which also serve to tell the time with a jumping hours display in Einstein’s forehead and the minutes indicated by the atom symbol pointer at eight o’clock. Made in-house at its Geneva manufacture of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watch illustrates Louis Vuitton’s impressive matchmaking capabilities, while also bringing to mind the extravagant, casual style of its streetwear. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Einstein Automata, I knew I had to see it in person. And in the metal the watch certainly lives up to expectations, it is bizarre, impressive, and wearable, all at the same time. It is bizarre because Einstein is accurately portrayed – the likeness is done well – yet rendered in alien colours of pale blue and silver. It’s impressive because the dial is enamelled and engraved in-house while the movement is exceptionally complex. And it’s wearable despite being a very large watch because the case is in stainless steel, unlike its regular production counterparts that are in gold. Do I like it? I do. But I can imagine a lot of people won’t and I can understand...
Hodinkee
Covering the wild, the weird, and the scholarship-changing in our preview of the upcoming Geneva auctions.
Worn & Wound
Mother’s Day (May 12th, 2024) may be less than two weeks away, but it’s not too late to find the perfect meaningful gift for Mom. If you haven’t already, check out our Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2024. Or if you simply want more ideas, you’re in the right place. Here are four more picks we think would make great gifts to show your appreciation for all that our mothers do for us every day. Being a mom often means wearing many hats, and the variety of watches here are designed to handle anything life throws at them. The Windup Watch Shop Team wishes you and yours a very happy Mother’s Day! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available to answer any questions you have. You can schedule a consultation here. Mother’s Day (May 12th, 2024) may be less than two weeks away, but it’s not too late to find the perfect meaningful gift for Mom. If you haven’t already, check out our Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2024. Or if you simply want more ideas, you’re in the right place. Here are four more picks we think would make great gifts to show your appreciation for all that our mothers do for us every day. Being a mom often means wearing many hats, and the variety of watches here are designed to handle anything life throws at them. The Windup Watch Shop Team wishes you and yours a very happy Mother’s Day! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available to answer any questions you have. You can schedule a consultation here. The post Last Minute Mother’s Day Gift Idea...
Worn & Wound
For a certain generation (OK, it might be a micro-generation) of watch collector, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 looms impossibly large. The colorful quartz watches, made from a combination of steel and fiberglass, debuted in 1986 at a time of great upheaval in the Swiss watch industry. This the first watch produced under the TAG Heuer banner, and a meeting of Heuer’s racing heritage and their new partner’s focus on emerging technologies in watchmaking. The watches were a sensation, and an affordable entrypoint for many into a rabbit hole that, as we all know, goes very deep indeed. Original F1 watches have become incredibly collectible over the years, and a new collaboration brings back the spirit of those watches in a way that should be incredibly satisfying to enthusiasts who grew up on the F1. Launching today, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith brings back the iconic Formula 1 design language in a series of limited edition releases. Ronnie Fieg, Kith’s founder, is a noted fan of the Formula 1 and a longtime collector, and the bold color and strong design codes of the original F1 overlap with much of what Kith is working to accomplish throughout their apparel and sneaker collections. As with any update of a much loved watch from the past, it’s interesting to note what has been changed, and what has been kept the same. For the 2024 edition of the Formula 1, materials have been upgraded throughout (the new watches get a sapphire crystal rather than plastic, and the strap...
Monochrome
A few years ago, we introduced you to Bangalore Watch Company, a brand established in 2018, originating from India, and dedicated, among other things, to honouring modern India’s technological advancements. True to its name, the Bangalore Watch Company’s Apogee collection pays tribute to India’s space research program. These timepieces are infused with stylistic cues reminiscent […]
SJX Watches
Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...
Fratello
Hublot is easily one of the most controversial watch brands among enthusiasts. The brand seems to thrive but not necessarily in connoisseur’s circles. It catches a ton of flack, in some cases deservedly. I have to admit I hardly paid the brand any attention for the longest time. But I find myself coming around. There […] Visit Opinion Revision: I Really Like Hublot Watches - There, I Said It to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II. Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...
Worn & Wound
Phillips, along with Bacs & Russo, has recently unveiled the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition. This watch was created in partnership between three industry leaders: Phillips Watches, William Massena from the horological concept studio Massena LAB, and the award-winning independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The result is a watch that encompasses each collaborators’ unique talents, while building a watch that melds past and present seamlessly. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458 wristwatch, originally crafted in platinum for collector Joe Ben “J.B.” Champion, Jr. in 1952, this watch pays homage to horological history. Notably, the original timepiece set a record in 2014 as the most valuable time-only wristwatch ever auctioned, solidifying its iconic status. Despite its vintage influences, the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition has a distinctly modern essence. Building upon the technical foundation established by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès in 2022 with the Magraph Limited Edition, this collaboration introduces a 38.5mm × 10mm stainless steel case housing the manual-wind, proprietary caliber M690. This movement is a refinement of Massena LAB’s inaugural movement, features sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and hand-decoration (including hand finished anglage on bridges and plates) overseen by Swiss craftsmen under Pagès’ direction. Embracing a love for vintage timepieces and the narratives surrounding them, the colla...
WatchAdvice
After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...
SJX Watches
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Time+Tide
Buffy finds out why the stealth-wealth silver glow of platinum adds so much to the price tag of a watch.The post Why are platinum watches more expensive than gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
This week, Fratello On Air returns to its normally scheduled slot with a look at some Haute Horlogerie that can be bought at a fair price. To be clear, we’re focusing more on high-end complications that usually cost an arm and a leg. This is the second half of an episode we recorded a week […] Visit Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.
Hodinkee
Hodinkee Insurance joins more than 80 amazing brands showing at the West Coast outing of Worn & Wound's enthusiast-driven watch fair.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this month at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new chronographs, expanding its 1887 line-up, first developed in 2019. The Swiss brand unveiled both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique. These timepieces represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the brand’s founding date and its rich heritage that has made it a staple on the Swiss market for over 130 years. According to the Maison, the development process of these chronographs was meticulous, involving extensive research and study of original Eberhard & Co. chronographs dating back to the 1930s. Preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these timepieces served as the primary source of inspiration for the design and technical aspects of the new releases. Both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique are powered by exclusive calibers developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT. The movements (EB 280 and EB 380, respectively) feature a column wheel and the fly-back complication, a nod to the precision timing required in aviation during the 1930s. The EB 280 in the Limitée is manually wound, while the EB 380 in the Automatique is, as the name of the watch implies, self-winding. The primary aesthetic difference between the two references is the use of baton style hour markers on the Limtée and Breguet numerals on the Automatique. Each is available with white or black dials...
Fratello
For some reason, watches with a jumping-hour complication always intrigue me. The fact that they don’t necessarily need to have traditional hands inspires designers to do things differently. They come up with original ways of displaying the time. Sometimes, there’s just a simple hour window and an additional minute hand. But the watches can also […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Jumping-Hour Watches From Bell & Ross, Gérald Genta, And Breguet to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Although Cartier watches are now enjoying a streak of popularity, thanks in part to social media, the jeweller’s greatest timekeepers are arguably not wristwatches but clocks, namely the lavish and inventive clocks made in the first half of the 20th century that rank amongst the most impressive clocks ever made. Not only were most carefully designed and ornately decorated, many feature unique, “mysterious” time display mechanisms. A quartet of such clocks long hidden in a discreet collection, has just emerged at Phillips and will soon go under the hammer. All four are Chinese-themed Art Deco creations typical of Cartier’s work of the period, and include an example of the famous mystery clock, specially a single-axle version inlaid with turquoise. But the highlight is a long-lost pendule de table magnétique, or magnet clock, sometimes also known as a turtle- or water clock. The most elaborate water clock ever made by Cartier, this example is a large jade bowl containing a carp floating on water that serves as the hour hand. Made in 1929 by Cartier Paris and sold by its New York branch, this water clock was lost for decades and known only from drawings in Cartier’s archives. It finally reemerged at Christie’s in 1990, where it was sold to the current owner. The clock then remained inaccessible in the owner’s collection, although it was mentioned in several Cartier books, including the well-known tomes by Francois Chaille and Franco Cologni, and Hans Nadelhoffe...
Time+Tide
This exceedingly competitively priced central tourbillon watch commemorates the 70th anniversary of Hillary and Norgay's ascent of Everest.The post CIGA Design’s Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition represents another peak for Chinese watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hanhart announces the new Preventor9 S based on a historic model from the 1950s. The all black watch will be a limited production of 100 pieces in 2024.
Quill & Pad
It will surprise nobody that over the last 5 years certain steel sports watches have taken off in terms of popularity and become practically impossible to buy at an authorized retailer. However, fear not as there is still a unicorn out there that has not captured broader attention (yet): the Girard-Perregaux Laureato.
Fratello
Sometimes viewed as a low point in watch design, the late ’90s and early ’00s saw some great watch designs emerge. Today, a select handful offer huge bargains in the pre-owned market and neo-vintage luxury for small sums. As long as you don’t mind the odd over-scratched or over-polished piece, the value of watches like […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More to read the full article.
Revolution
As we wander through the captivating displays at Watches & Wonders 2024, CEO Cyrille Vigneron shares insights into the core values that have propelled Cartier to its prominent position in the watch industry. His commitment to excellence, innovation, and timeless elegance resonates in every exquisite timepiece showcased at the event. With a keen eye for […]
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...
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