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Monochrome
Since formalising its modern manufacture capabilities (including a long-standing stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier), La Montre Hermès has developed a distinct vocabulary with typography that’s unmistakably Hermès. The H08 collection, launched in 2021, translated the approach into a daily-wear sports watch that felt designed rather than engineered. Its cushion case, graphic numerals, and mix of […]
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 stands as one of the most technically ambitious pocket watches of the modern era. Launched to mark the turn of the millennium, it was the fourth most complicated watch in the world at its debut, but its true significance lies not in numbers, but in the ingenuity of its mechanisms, which redefined how grand complications could be conceived, engineered, and executed. An original complete set of four Star Caliber 2000 watches is being offered for sale by Sotheby’s at its first-ever watch auction in Abu Dhabi, which takes place in December. The first complete set to ever appear publicly, the sale will likely draw significant attention from collectors and institutions alike. The technical significance of the Star Caliber 2000 The Star Caliber 2000 was and is a remarkable achievement in watchmaking, but it was never the world’s most complicated watch. When it debuted, the Star Caliber 2000 ranked fourth in the official tally of complications, behind the Patek Philippe’s own Caliber 89 and the famous Henry Graves Super Complication from 1932, as well as the lesser-known Leroy 01 from 1904. Over the past quarter century, the Star Caliber 2000 has fallen down the rankings as more complicated watches, for both the pocket and the wrist, have been developed by Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. But the Star Caliber 2000 should not be judged solely by this kind of ranking, which is largely superficial. The watch is packed with a number o...
Fratello
Let’s rewind to the golden age of scuba diving and, some would say, sports-watch design. It is the 1960s, and Doxa and Rolex are co-developing a specialized technology that will allow their ultimate diving watches to endure the rigors of the deep. A consistent issue had been noted after dive watches had spent time at […] Visit The Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs. Doxa’s Sub 300T: A Battle For The Burly Wristed to read the full article.
Deployant
In this video, we answer the newbie question of what are complications in watches, and talk about our personal favourite complications.
Fratello
I have always believed that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is best enjoyed when you stop treating it like a precious object and start treating it like a companion. With ongoing wait lists and the like, getting one new from the Rolex AD has proven tricky. Luckily, Rolex recently loaned me the new Oyster Perpetual 36mm […] Visit Two Weeks With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Pistachio” to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
It utilises Nitron MC, an advanced, scratch-resistant hard-coating technology developed in its hometown of Cambridge.The post Beaucroft goes full stealth with the Element Rebel Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Editor’s note – As our long-time readers might know, MONOCRHOME is usually quite (to say the least) technical. We like to go in-depth, to look at the ins and outs of watchmaking, sometimes tackling highly complex topics. This was the main objective behind our “Technical Perspective” series, where we’ve covered some of the most complex […]
Deployant
The 2025 reissue of the Seiko Rotocall is a curious and deliberate throwback to an era when digital watches were not just tools, but symbols of technological optimism.
Time+Tide
A stealthy DLC colourway has been added to the core collection of the Nodus Sector II platform.The post Nodus brings a stealthy look back to the range with the Sector II Pilot DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There’s a particular kind of madness that grips watch nerds before a big trip. Other people worry about airport transfers, currency exchange, or how many pairs of socks they need. I, however, have spent the last two weeks in what I can only describe as horological paralysis, staring at my watch box as if it […] Visit The Agonizing Joy Of Choosing A Holiday Watch to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Have you ever wondered what it is like to drive a Porsche 911 GT3? I did! Of course, it’s the most powerful and driver-focused, naturally aspirated version of the legendary 911, and it is praised by everyone for its brutal power, magnificent driving capabilities and sheer fun. After eight years of driving a 911 Carrera […]
Time+Tide
The latest entry in Jaeger-LeCoultre's multidisciplinary "Made of Makers" programme is a webcomic by Filipino artist Olivecoat.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest “Made of Makers” collab is a manga-styled webcomic take on the Reverso’s origin story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Graduating from his watchmaking studies in Switzerland this year, young indie watchmaker Ivan Berets is set to launch his first watch. Simply called the Series 1, it is based on his graduation project watch, more poetically known as the Montre d’Ecole in French. With Russian roots, Ivan now resides in Italy and has unveiled the Sereis […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among all of Rolex’s bracelet options, the Oysterflex is perhaps the most unconventional and arguably the most misunderstood. Now marking 10 years on the market, and encompassing attributes of both a sturdy steel bracelet and a supple rubber strap, the Oysterflex has gone from being a curious, one-off outlier on a niche Yacht-Master model to an integral element of some of the Crown’s most buzz-worthy timepieces of recent years. Here’s what you should know about it. History of Rubber Watch Straps The road to the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet really started with the invention of vulcanized rubber in 1839, attributed to chemist Charles Goodyear (below, whose name is now immortalized in the automotive world as a leading manufacturer of tires). Vulcanized rubber - a compound of natural rubber with other compounds, which offered enhanced resilience and pliability - was originally used in mostly industrial areas, as in the manufacture of o-rings, gaskets, and (of course) tires. The discovery of fluoroelastomers as an alternative to the difficult-to-source natural rubber led to the rise of synthetic rubbers that had even more advantages, such as resistance to water, oils, and temperature extremes. These rubbers found their way into more everyday products such as shoes, belts, and flooring, while also expanding further into applications in the automotive industry, for door seals, hoses, and other parts. Synthetic rubber first emerged as an alternative for wristwatch straps in...
Time+Tide
The Man United defender turned entrepreneur stopped by our London Discovery Studio for a night all about Norqain. The post Norqain and Gary Neville stopped by the London Studio for a Wild night appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
In a surprising and quite unexpected move, Alpina celebrated its 140th anniversary in 2023 by unveiling a highly limited run of Heritage Carrée Mechanical watches, featuring the authentic calibre 490 hand-wound movement from 1938 inside, restored and presented in a silver case. Following positive reactions and to ensure continuity, the brand introduced non-limited versions in […]
Deployant
I had the opportunity to ride the top of the line Moulton Double Pylon with all high end components over a week, and here is a quick review.
Hodinkee
In this two-part story, we look at the world's top two luxury watch and jewelry databases and how registering your collection can help keep it safe.
Fratello
When CIGA Design first released the Everest Central Tourbillon, it caught plenty of us off guard. Here was a young Chinese brand taking on one of horology’s most challenging mechanisms while doing it in a watch that actually felt emotionally grounded. Brad’s hands-on review from last year summed it up nicely: this was a watch […] Visit CIGA Design Scales Higher With The New Everest Summit Central Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Every Windup has its share of surprises, and the recently completed New York edition of the fair (in our big 10th anniversary year) was no exception. Something I was definitely not expecting was the newest release from Lorier, the Roosevelt. Lorier is a brand that’s on my personal Mt. Rushmore of microbrands – I just find their watches endlessly charming and Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are among my favorite people to run into at a watch event. The existence of the Roosevelt itself isn’t so much a surprise, but the way it was presented felt different. Lorier didn’t have a booth at this year’s NYC show, but introduced the watch through their partners at Grand Central Watch, who had a space on the second floor of our venue, showing off the Roosevelt and doing some bracelet adjustments and strap changes on the side. The Roosevelt feels in some ways like a cousin of the Zephyr, Lorier’s Art Deco inspired dress watch from a few years back that felt like a real departure from their midcentury sports watch roots. I was a huge fan of the Zephyr, and remember thinking at the time it could signal an entirely new lane for Lorier to experiment in. Now we get the Roosevelt, which feels like a departure in many of the same, satisfying ways. Inspired by the design of Grand Central Terminal, the Roosevelt is a cushion cased design reminiscent of sports watches from the 1920s. Today, it presents like a dressier piece, but in a lot of ways this watch is very much in line with Lorie...
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Fratello
Twenty years after launching its first watch, British watch brand Christopher Ward seems to be settling into a hard-earned level of maturity. Its latest introduction, the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT, exemplifies everything the brand has learned over the past two decades. It’s an impressive, feature-packed tool watch that combines the brand’s now fully fleshed-out design […] Visit Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]
Fratello
As the year progresses and new releases continue to shape the horological landscape, Fratello is turning its attention to one of watchmaking’s most enduring genres, the dress watch. Welcome to Fratello Dress Watch Season, a new series that brings together eight of our writers - and you, our readers - to determine which of this […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Search for 2025’s Most Elegant Timepiece to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Russell has this theory that Bulgari is the biggest rebel in the entire watchmaking industry. He went to Bulgari to put that to the test.The post Inside Bulgari’s rebellion: how the watch industry’s fastest mover does the impossible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Born in the Black Forest and best known for instrument chronographs like the 417 ES and Pioneer series, Hanhart also has a quieter thread that predates its stopwatch fame: the wristwatches of the 1930s (cal. 36/39), valued for clarity and everyday utility. The Silva line infuses that heritage into a modern, time-only series. It is […]
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