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Review: Dietrich Skin Diver SD-1, a new microbrand diver watch
We review the new Dietrich Skin Diver SD-1, a timepiece that was built for skin divers that features a combination of classic and modern touches.
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Deployant
We review the new Dietrich Skin Diver SD-1, a timepiece that was built for skin divers that features a combination of classic and modern touches.
Revolution
The watch industry gets serious about sustainability.
SJX Watches
Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...
Quill & Pad
Seiko has always made it a point to deliver bang for your buck. And in recent years, the brand has been realigning its different collections with the aim of offering collectors exciting products in every price category. For the Presage, this means that there are now two tiers to the collection: Prestige and Basic. Martin Green takes us through a number of models from 2020.
Hodinkee
Chatting about Danny's latest Talking Watches, Cole's artful time in Miami, and the latest addition to Logan's collection.
Quill & Pad
J.N. Shapiro is the eponymous brand of Josh Shapiro, an educator turned watchmaker who specializes in guilloche. His latest watch, the Infinity Tantalum, is a classic three-hander with a small seconds dial designed in the spirit of George Daniels, Breguet, and other greats. The palladium dial is completely hand-guilloche and sports tantalum chapter rings. And, oh, that gorgeous style!
Hodinkee
Just in time for the season, an auction with a little something for everyone.
Deployant
Bell & Ross brings back their Horolum model after the successful 2017 BR03 model with strong Super-LumiNova C5 in a new limited edition (250 pieces) BR05.
Revolution
Imagine a movie script about a watch collector. Immersing yourself as the protagonist, you’re a young and ambitious watch enthusiast starting out both in terms of your career, and your journey in watch collecting.
SJX Watches
Widely regarded as the best “pink on pink” 1518 ever to emerge, the ref. 1518 once owned by Prince Mohammed Tewfik A. “T.A.” Toussoun of Egypt lived up to expectations and then some, having just sold at Sotheby’s in New York for US$9.57 million including fees. While almost 300 ref. 1518s were produced, only about fifth of them were in pink gold, with the majority in yellow gold. And just 14 are “pink on pink” with salmon-toned dials matched with a pink gold case. The 14th “pink on pink” ref. 1518 known, this was consigned by the heirs of the late prince, who passed away earlier this year aged 95. He was a first cousin to the the last King of Egypt, Farouk I. The prince pictured in the 1970s The prince was the original owner of this ref. 1518, which he bought on July 25, 1951 according to the certificate that accompanied the watch – which makes it the only “pink on pink” ref. 1518 with its original certificate. The watch remained in his possession since then, seemingly hardly worn, explaining its near-pristine condition. All those factors combined to create a tremendous interest from bidders, almost a dozen of them, all on the phones with Sotheby’s representatives. Bidding was easy and enthusiastic at the start, with one bidder making a million-dollar jump from two to three million, presumably in an attempt to deter the competition. It didn’t work and though there were just a handful of bidders past the five-million mark, the proceedings contin...
SJX Watches
A grand old name in highly complicated movements, Louis-Elisée Piguet was active in the second half of the 19th century and most famous for his grande sonnerie and perpetual calendar calibres. Amongst his clients for ebauches, or movement blanks, were famous names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – and his work was perhaps an inspiration for Philippe Dufour in the 20th century. A prime example of one such ebauche – featuring a grande sonnerie and minute repeater no less – was acquired by Michel Parmigiani in the late 1990s. A watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire, Mr Parmigiani and his daughter, Anne-Laure, recently led a project to finish and enhance the movement, resulting in La Rose Carrée, a spectacular pocket watch to mark his namesake brand’s 25th anniversary. Initial thoughts Like the recent Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Johannes Vermeer pocket watch, La Rose Carrée is a masterpiece catered to a narrow audience. There are few collectors of pocket watches nowadays, at least relative to wristwatches, especially pocket watches with seven figure price tags. But inaccessible as it may be, La Rose Carrée is certainly worthy of admiration. The quality of craft and decoration is par excellence – an all-star team of artisans was recruited to complete it – and the ebauche was a masterpiece even unfinished. Stylistically, La Rose Carrée is also unusual in being more contemporary than the average grand complication pocket watch. The geometric f...
Revolution
IWC adds one of the most ubiquitous complications in watchmaking to its Big Pilot, without disturbing the latter’s distinctive profile - in a monopusher.
Hodinkee
Imagine a brand changing just one color or even tweaking one line of text on the dial of its most popular model – what an idea!
Deployant
Seiko introduces into the Presage collection a new limited edition with a dial made of Arita Porcelain. The dial captures the faint lapis lazuli color.
Revolution
Omega Museum announces its intention to bid on Ralph Ellison’s Speedmaster Ref. ST 145.012 at the 2021 Phillips New York Watch
Hodinkee
Kelly Zimmerman pledges fealty to The Crown - and a certain German automaker.
Hodinkee
You probably know the Memphis school by its look, if not by its name. Here's why it mattered in 2021 – and may continue into next year.
Deployant
Casio G-SHOCK releases a new set of the classic DW-5600 Series a revival of historical colors of yellow, blue, and green.
SJX Watches
While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett takes a look at the new Bollinger Blanc de Noirs one-off, the B13 from the (unusual) 2013 vintage. And decides that this is no shrinking violet and that no one is going to taste this and start thinking how delicate, how elegant. It is a big, bold, full-of-flavor champagne.
Hodinkee
Robin, Jack, and the latest watches from a special show with growing influence.
Hodinkee
Jon goes hands-on with the latest Rolex Explorer II and Cole has a charming budget-friendly alternative.
Time+Tide
Often we receive questions via email and social media from our readers, and we always strive to respond to each and every one. But we recognise that many of you, even if you have yet to reach out, may be pondering the same questions. So each week we’re starting “Zach’s Mailbag” where I will endeavour … ContinuedThe post ZACH’S MAILBAG: “My watch budget is $1,000 – $1,500 – what brands should I look at?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Marc Hayek, CEO of Blancpain, Breguet and Jaquet Droz, said it best. “Platinum is among the noblest and most precious of metals,” he told The Financial Times. “It has extraordinary properties that make it extremely resistant, but also difficult to process and finish. Creating platinum watch cases requires special savoir-faire. It results in beautiful white/grey-coloured models that do not tarnish. Hence, platinum is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five platinum watches to put on your wish-list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A watch or a pen is often a traditional gift for an important occasion. Signature Moments, the first collaboration authored by Carl F. Bucherer with Caran d’Ache, is all about remembrances of things past as well as hopes for the future. These two companies celebrate this with a collaborative limited edition watch and pen set, only 188 of which are available worldwide, comprising Carl F. Bucherer's Manero Flyback Signature timepiece and Caran d’Ache's Signature rollerball pen.
Time+Tide
Back in June, we told you about Paul Draper*. He got in touch with us after reading our story about how a report estimated that $60 billion USD of watches were gathering dust in people’s homes due to their owners’ failure to recognise what their timepieces were actually worth. The article motivated Paul to take action. Sitting … ContinuedThe post “For me, it’s a life-altering sum of money” – What it feels like to sell a watch you found in your sock drawer for $240,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Sarpaneva Watches celebrates Moomins, the central characters in a series of books and a comic strip in a series of 4 watches, each limited to 25 pieces.
Deployant
At the Lange Exceptional Masterpieces exhibition, currently on till Dec 5, we participated in a special activity, showcasing analog photography.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial. Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...
Deployant
Comprehensive review of the new Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 Mosquito, the model inspired by the legendary de Havilland Mosquito aircraft.
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