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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler” SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilot Ref 5003 Oct 20, 2021

Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler”

One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...

Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021 Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme new Oct 16, 2021

Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021

We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time Quill & Pad
Trilobe Oct 10, 2021

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time

Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.

Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk but Oct 10, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue

There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds   Quill & Pad
Breguet Tradition Reference 7035 Scintillating Oct 9, 2021

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds  

When Breguet introduced the Tradition collection in 2005, it took inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s souscription pocket watches made back when the famed watchmaker himself was still at the helm. The new Reference 7035 is very much a precious version of Breguet's modern La Tradition with diamonds added to the mix. And they are beautifully snow set!

Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Deployant
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Oct 9, 2021

Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm

The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm is a nice addition to the Excalibur line, in particular for its more elegant case size. Without compromising its sporty look, the skeletonized tourbillon timepiece provides an excellent alternative to classic watches, a segment of casual high luxury watches that are on an incline. The watch is priced at S$217,000 and limited to 88 pieces.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Oct 8, 2021

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency

For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.