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Nothing Makes Sense This Monday, And The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold And Green Is To Blame Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar Aug 5, 2024

Nothing Makes Sense This Monday, And The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold And Green Is To Blame

Let’s do a little test. I want to know how you react to the following types of watches. Are you ready? Here we go - dive watches with tourbillons and pilot’s watches with perpetual calendars. Do you start to feel a tad uncomfortable? Did your left eye twitch a little? It’s a “yes” for me […] Visit Nothing Makes Sense This Monday, And The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold And Green Is To Blame to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes Fratello
Aug 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes

I’m all for a tough sports watch with a muscular design accompanied by a matte black or blue dial, a solid depth rating, and big, blocky lume-printed indices. But the Beaufort Pulsatimer is a conflicting mix of this and dressy vintage, and it frazzled my watch-brain neurons. I have a confession to make: sometimes a […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Hanhart Fly Navy Aerosphere Special Edition Monochrome
Jul 30, 2024

Introducing – The New Hanhart Fly Navy Aerosphere Special Edition

German brand Hanhart began manufacturing stopwatches in Switzerland before relocating to Germany in 1902, where it gained renown as a producer of Flieger (pilot’s) chronographs for pilots and naval officers during World War II. With a solid repertoire of vintage-inspired models, the new Fly Navy Aerosphere is a more contemporary watch and flies the insignia of Germany’s […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - Jul 30, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition

At last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, TAG Heuer introduced its new Carrera Chronograph collection with the so-called “Glassbox” design. We are big fans of the regular 39mm version in its blue and black/silver configurations. Maybe that’s why we didn’t dedicate too much attention to the 42mm blue-dial tourbillon version that came […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition to read the full article.

10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 29, 2024

10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025

In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025.  Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...

Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono Fratello
Certina DS Action Diver Chrono Jul 29, 2024

Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono

The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono is here just in time for the summer holidays. It’s a refreshing modern watch that follows the same design path as the DS Action Diver. It also takes a sharp detour from the trend of smaller diameters and thinner cases. This is a big, bold watch! I’m happy to […] Visit Introducing: The Certina DS Action Diver Chrono to read the full article.

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond Worn & Wound
Jul 18, 2024

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond

If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out.  I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...

Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition Fratello
Jul 12, 2024

Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition

I dare say there wasn’t a single French Air Force pilot in the 1950s who could’ve foreseen a blue sky with pixelated white clouds in the sub-dials of his Type 20. Airain’s Tom van Wijlick, however, dared to do something different with one of the most iconic pilot’s watches of all time by contacting Romaric […] Visit Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition to read the full article.

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More Fratello
TAG Heuer Breitling Cartier Jul 10, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More

We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you’ll find hidden gems from the late ’90s to the end of the ’00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Watches Jul 4, 2024

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection

Three years after the debut of the MR01, Baltic has updated their popular micro-rotor movement powered dress watch line in a big way. The new MR Roulette collection, which debuts today, offers a new take on the platform with a slightly more casual, sector dial inspired layout. Coming on the heels of the Prismic collection, a series of watches that drew intense reactions in all directions, the MR Roulette feels like a return to the aesthetic that made Baltic the brand they are today, with modest vintage cues, a mixing of textures, and an enticing price point.  The MR Roulette is built on the same foundation of previous micro-rotor powered watches in Baltic’s catalog. It has a 36mm steel case with a flat, vertically brushed bezel and lugs that are brushed in a complementary circular pattern. The case is accented with tasteful polishing on the bezel wall, and measures an easy to wear 44mm from lug to lug. If you’ve ever tried on the original MR01, you know that this case truly wears like a vintage watch, not only its proportions, but it has a light and airy quality to it as well. It measures just 9.9mm tall, but feels thinner because nearly 2mm of that height is taken up by the domed hesalite crystal.  The new dials are available in salmon, silver, blue, and black variants. All but the black feature a grained background paired with two brushed sectors: an interior track for the hours, and an exterior track for the minutes. The running seconds subdial is off-center, cove...

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence Fratello
Jul 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence

This review was tough as this Zelos made a big impact with its materials and slim, demure case. Going hands-on with the Zelos Nova 37mm Tantalum has been a pleasure regardless of value, brand image, and size, so staying objective was quite challenging. First impressions from press shots left me with an image of too […] Visit Hands-On With The Zelos Nova 37mm - A Tantalum Watch With A Grail-Like Presence to read the full article.

Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green Fratello
Laco Augsburg Jul 3, 2024

Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green

Many pilot’s watches, especially those of the Flieger variety, are designed with a specific purpose in mind: their wearers must be able to read the time in a split second. That’s why the dials feature large numerals, hands, and markers. This results in an iconic look that has many fans worldwide. On the other hand, […] Visit Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green to read the full article.

Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter Worn & Wound
Jun 28, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Monarte Watches Monarte Watches founder Domen faced a dilemma. He wanted a durable dive watch that also had a dressy look so he could wear it to work or for a night out, not just for sports and weekends. After conducting his research, he discovered that the only “hybrid” watches that truly met the requirements were extremely expensive. As a result, he reached out to the online watch community to gather their input and preferences. From this collective effort, he believes he has devised a solution, the Monarte Squid, a highly versatile and capable dive watch adorned with numerous little details that enthusiasts adore. Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way, shall we? Only the original guilloché dial was crafted by hand-operated lathe, and all subsequent dials were CNC machined to replicate it as closely as possible. This cost-saving manufacturing process in no way diminishes their ornateness or splendor. You would be hard-pressed to find more i...

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey (Volume III) Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey Jun 28, 2024

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey (Volume III)

One of Hublot’s more recent specialities has been the Essential Grey treatment of popular models, which essentially turns them into monochromatic variants for collectors. This started with the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and continued with the Spirit of Big Bang Essential Grey, and now we have a third instalment, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey. […]

Bell & Ross Expands their BR 03 Dive Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Expands their BR 03 Jun 27, 2024

Bell & Ross Expands their BR 03 Dive Watch Collection

Bell & Ross has significantly expanded their lineup of BR 03 divers this week, launching a total of five new references in the collection of sports watches inspired by aircraft instrumentation. The BR 03 line has been the subject of many incremental upgrades over the past year, and just as we saw with the pilot’s watches, these divers seem to be operating under the philosophy of “less is more” when it comes to making changes in the lineup.  The BR 03, and Bell & Ross square watches in general, have always been a bit of a cult object, loved all out of proportion by their fans. The divers are a particularly strange subset within the product line. The “pilot” and “diver” aesthetics rarely match up, but there’s something almost logical here about an overbuilt, square watch designed to get wet. Somehow, we can take the instrument cluster aesthetic inspiration out of the equation once we’re told we’re dealing with a dive watch. What we’re left with is my favorite type of Bell & Ross: something that’s just simply and deeply strange, a watch that feels like it shouldn’t exist but has an obvious appeal anyway.  The 42mm divers introduced this week come in five variants, which, as you’d expect, progress from fairly banal to positively strange. There are three steel references with white, blue, and black dials. These, as you can probably surmise, are the more straightforward watches in the collection. They have the same general appearance of an aviation ...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Jun 26, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Sometimes the little moments inform our collecting more than the big ones. A big moment might be the first time Dad trusted you to wear his watch. While formative, there’d be a lot more two-tone bracelets on Instagram if those moments drove purchasing decisions. My “big moment” came on my seventh birthday. After weeks of begging for a digital watch, I opened a package to be greeted by black resin and the coolest digital screen I’d ever laid eyes on. The subsequent victory lap through the kitchen resulted in a trip to urgent care. Though I still have the scar to remember the watch that unleashed the horological nerd within me, my watchbox is currently void of a single digital watch. On the contrary, little moments are constantly influencing how I think about and consume watches. These are often as simple as offhand remarks I hear at a meetup or a comment I read on Reddit. One of these little moments came while I was listening to Rico’s Watches Podcast a couple years ago. A RedBar chapter head was the week’s guest, and he made some brief, unflattering remarks about Raymond Weil. Sharing a story of buyer’s remorse, he cited a lack of demand on the secondary market and a design language that was an amalgamation of other brands rather than something original. These quick quips stuck with me. As a newer collector, I’d already discerned that anything with “mall watch” vibes might not receive the nod of approval from my enthusiast peers. And, having personally ...

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition Fratello
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Jun 26, 2024

Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition

One fantastic aspect of living in London is that big events happen here. Museums, auction houses, and boutiques put on amazing displays for locals and visitors. Best of all, most of these shows are free and take place in lovely locations. Roughly three weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Rare […] Visit Photo Report: The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 London Exhibition to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue Fratello
Jun 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue

Diver’s, field, and pilot’s watches are among the most popular variations in the time-only-watch universe. While Circula already covered the first two, now with the ProFlight, it also ticks the last box. Although unmistakably derived from Circula’s ProTrail, this ProFlight model immediately impresses with its modern pilot’s watch face. It’s probably thanks to a quirky, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...