Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Moonphase
An affordable automatic dress watch with a classic design.
Results for Lollipop Seconds Hand
5,040 articles · 43 videos found · page 125 of 170
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT
With an annual output of just over four million watches, Tissot is Switzerland’s largest watchmaker by volume, with the bulk of its watches being affordable and quartz. But it has also carved out a niche with equally affordable mechanical watches starting at a bit under US$400 for the Swissmatic (a close relative of the Swatch Sistem51 movement). One step up is the Powermatic 80, an automatic movement that more closely resembles a traditional calibre – with more metal components and less plastic bits. A complicated model within the family, if it can be called that, is the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT. It’s a dual time zone automatic starting at just US$875 – a value proposition that is also unusual in being one of the few GMT watches price below US$1,000. Chemin des Tourelles is the street in Le Locle where Tissot has had its factory since 1907 (though the brand was founded in 1853), sitting beside the facilities of Mido, Montblanc, and Vulcain. Unsurprisingly, the Chemin des Tourelles GMT is traditionally styled, though surprisingly large; the collection also includes a similarly affordable time-only automatic as well as a chronograph. The case is simple in form but appealing, with a surprising degree of detailing. The look is enhanced by the polished bevel on the outside edge of the lugs, which also have a notch where they join the case. And the case and bezel also have contrasting brushes and polished surfaces, making the whole more visually in...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Avantist La Majesté Tourbillon
Now four years old, Avantist was founded by Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and probably most famous for its tennis watches that incorporate string taken from the racquet used by Martina Navratilova when she won Wimbledon 1987. The brand has since diversified into other memorabilia timepieces, including one that contains strings from one of John Mayer’s guitars and another featuring threads from the national flag flown on the day of the Sultan of Brunei’s coronation. But Avantist’s most notable timepieces are the series of skeleton tourbillon watches that are entirely customisable, the La Majesté Tourbillon. These custom watches have so far been created for notable personalities, including sportsmen and heads of state; the first example – the model name translates as “His Majesty” – was conceived for the Sultan of Brunei. Powered by a hand-wound, skeleton movement from complications specialist Concepto, the La Majeste is customisable in its entirety, from the case and movement material to the design of the barrel ratchet wheel. Though the La Majeste is yet another watch in the sporty-skeleton-tourbillon genre, it manages to be a different take on a familiar look. At the same time, it combines an interesting movement with a surprisingly light and tactile feel in the hand. Thoughtfully detailed From design to production, the La Majeste Tourbillon is the work of leading names in Swiss watchmaking, most notably with Concepto supplying the movement. Best kno...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The S.U.F. 180 Field Watch From Stepan Sarpaneva
A watch made for the rugged and harsh Finnish landscape.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Reservoir Hydrosphere Dive Watch 'Blackfin'
Is a retrograde dive watch Mission Impossible? Reservoir has the answer.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Chronoswiss Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec
18th century mechanics with 21st century aesthetics.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal
Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...
WatchAdvice
Hands-on with the IWC Mark XVIII (reference IW327009)
Introduction If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap. Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further. The Dial & Hands Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers. Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Resonance
Twice the resonance, twice the fun.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: De Bethune Dream Watch 5 in Rose Gold
De Bethune’s brand of watchmaking has spawned many avant-garde watches, ranging from the Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch to the East Asian-inspired Maestri Art. But its most outstanding sculptural creation is unquestionably the Dream Watch 5, an extraterrestrial seashell that tells the time. Originally launched in 2014 in mirror-polished titanium, the original Dream Watch 5 was extremely expensive, but also tiny, having the proportions of a lady’s watch. Fortunately, it was later enlarged to its current size of just under 60 mm at its widest, from crown to pointed tip, though it remains just as expensive. The Dream Watch was then iterated into several one-off examples, with the most incredible being the Dream Watch 5 in heat-blued meteorite; its extraordinary nature matched by the US$450,000 price tag. The Dream Watch 5 in meteorite More recently, a custom version of the Dream Watch 5 in 18k rose gold was delivered last year. Even though the design is exactly the same as the other variants, the rose gold specimen has a distinctly more classical look that dials back on the sci-fi feel. Like the other versions of the watch, the Dream Watch 5 in rose gold is entirely mirror polished, but also accented by an insert of polished, heat-blued titanium on the case back that extends to the crown, which is also made of the same material and then topped with a 1 carat ruby. Despite its aesthetics, the Dream Watch 5 is actually functionally simple: it indicates the hours and m...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938
Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Blasted Gold
About as much gold as one can fit under the radar, or indeed, under any shirt cuff.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch?
Unquestionably one of Grand Seiko’s most surprising releases of 2019, the SBGK additions to the Elegance Collection had all the makings of a perfect dress watch. There was just one problem, however - if I’m being really finickity, the dial options that were made available upon release were perhaps slightly out of keeping with that of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT Worldtimer 43mm
An amagnetic, chronometer-rated worldtimer with a vibrant, laser-ablated map.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase
While the El Primero and the Defy have been a major focus for the brand over the past year, Zenith has just revealed a total revamp of its most classical collection – the Elite. The facelifted models are the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase, both offered in a smaller 36 mm size with a diamond-set bezel for ladies, and the larger 40.5 mm – both in either steel or rose gold. The remake of the Elite was thorough, encompassing both the case and dial. The redesigned case features a slim, polished bezel with tapered lugs that have a brushed top surface and bevelled edge for contrast and a more refined feel. The Elite Classic But the most visible change, however, are the dials, which have a stamped, radial pattern framed by a railway minute track, coupled with applied numerals. On the rose gold model, the result is reminiscent of the Rolex Cellini Moonphase. Overall, the new details improve the look and feel of the Elite significantly, lending it much more finesse and character. And while the original Elite had leaf-shaped hands and hour markers, the new model features dauphine hands paired with faceted markers, giving the watch a sleeker, more modern look. Visible through a sapphire case back, both sizes of the Elite Classic are powered by the ultra-thin Elite 670 automatic, which runs at 4 Hz and has a 48-hour power reserve. Slightly more complex, the Elite Moonphase has a small seconds at nine o’clock as well as a moon phase at six with a moon plated in gold or rhodiu...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition
Zenith’s collaboration with Land Rover has produced the best-looking Defy 21 to date. Clad in matte grey with a handful of orange accents, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition is pared back and minimalist compared to the typical Defy chronograph. It’s essentially a more compelling variant of a watch that is already strong value for money. Launched to mark the unveiling of the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the new Defy 21 has a case of micro-blasted titanium. The metal has been sandblasted to create an extremely fine, grained surface finish, giving it a dark grey appearance with a hint of olive green that evokes military equipment. The dial is finished in a similar shade of grey, with most of it reduced to the essentials. Both the hands and hour markers have been slimmed down and minimised, as has the power reserve indicator, which is now a narrow, horizontal window. Most of the usual automotive design elements have been avoided on the Defy 21, with the exception of the rotor, which is shaped like the wheel rim of the new Defender. But it is only visible from the back, and does not take away from the appealing minimalist look of the watch. Mechanically the Land Rover Edition is identical to the standard Defy 21, meaning it has twin oscillators and going trains, one for the timekeeping and the other for the 1/100th of a second chronograph. Key facts and price Defy 21 Land Rover Edition Ref. 97.9000.9004/01.R787 Diameter: 44 mm Height: 14.4 mm Material: Titanium Water resistance...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0
Every year there’s a couple of timepieces that, for one reason or another, slip under the collective radar of us watch enthusiasts. There were more than a few examples in 2019: think the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, Rado Golden Horse, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic … the list goes on. But the watch that tends … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Hands-on with the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
We take an in-depth look at the new H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic and mark its entry into the world of the luxury sports steel watch.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Richard Mille RM 17-01 Tourbillon Carbon TPT
Big, light, and brash. I kinda love it.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946
Longines’ determination to churn out affordable vintage remakes is going strong, despite having just unveiled the Heritage Classic Sector Dial and then the Heritage Military 1938 late last year. Previewed last year but only just officially launched, the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 sticks to the same formula – reproduce a desirable Longines wristwatch and price it modestly – but is unusual in being the first vintage-inspired chronograph since the Avigation BigEye of 2018. More unusually, it’s a good-looking remake of an odd-looking vintage watch, purportedly from 1946, in the Longines Museum that combines elements not usually found together. Whatever the case maybe with the historical inspiration, the design of the remake has been sleekly refined. Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Like other remakes, the 1946 won’t win any prizes for imagination, but it’s a good-looking remake that gets the details right. The basis for the remake is a watch from 1946 in the company’s museum, which was most probably powered by the famed cal. 13ZN flyback chronograph movement (which was succeeded by the equally famous cal. 30CH in 1947). Introduced in 1936, the cal. 13ZN represented the cutting edge of chronograph technology at the time, being the first serially produced chronograph movement to incorporate a flyback function. Catered for sportsmen and aviators, the flyback function allowed the wearer to reset the chronograph without having to stop it first. As a rather...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SNJ025 Aka The 2019 'Arnie'
A time-machine that will have you asking, "Should I get to the choppa?"
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech 47MM
A tough-as-nails Submersible tested in the mountains by Jimmy Chin.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The stunning Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093
Mastering the creation of a material that was first conceived more than 400 years ago while simultaneously bringing it into the 21st century is no mean feat. But that’s exactly what Seiko has done with its silky smooth Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093. Widely regarded as some of the nicest and most ornate on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The stunning Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: When Hands Just Don’t Cut It – The Genus GNS 1
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Genus GNS 1, winner of the GPHG Mechanical Exception Watch Prize 2019.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019
2019 has spawned a literal plethora of new watches for all us timekeeping enthusiasts out there in the horological ether to enjoy. And while not all of them have been unmitigated successes *cough, cough*, the best watches of the year, in my opinion, have been the rather large assortment of reissue and homage pieces. Chief … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Autodromo Intereuropa
A watch to capture the insouciant coolness of Italy’s golden era of motorsport.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02
A next-gen Carrera for a modern TAG Heuer.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992
Panerai has gently eased itself towards a focus on more civilian sports watches, as opposed to retro-navy diver instrument remakes, since chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué took the helm in 2018. So its most recent releases this year include the extra-thin Luminor Due in titanium, along with commemorative editions for the America’s Cup yacht race. But Panerai is still keeping one eye on its Marina Militare heritage, exemplified by the pair of Radiomir watches unveiled last month, the most interesting of which is the Radiomir 8 Days 45mm (PAM00992). It has a vintage-esque style – not really a one for one remake – combined with an in-house, eight-day movement and a relatively accessible price of US$8,500. Most unusually, the steel case has a faux aged finish that Panerai is trying for the first time. Marina Militare The new Radiomir is not a remake of a vintage Panerai, but rather it’s a mix-and-match of various elements, including the engraved logo and “8 Giorni” emblem at three. Traditionalists might find it impure, but that was essentially the founding formula for the modern Panerai company. The result is a good-looking watch that approximates the look of a vintage Panerai while offering modern conveniences like a long power reserve. Even though it’s a large watch – the case is 45mm – it’s smallish by Panerai standards, since the military-style Panerai watches are usually 47mm. But it is big enough to look like a Panerai, and it wears well for a 45mm...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 In Steel
A classic chronograph is now in steel – for the second time.