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MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches

Normally, when the name Transylvania is uttered, a certain fictional monster comes to mind. But for this week’s Micro Mondays, we’re taking a look at something hailing from the gothic region of Romania that doesn’t want to suck your blood … just your bank account. And not nearly as vociferously as many rival brands. Peren … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the Peren Hintz, a field watch with warmly nuanced touches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line – Reprise Jul 18, 2020

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Line – Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai suffered from widespread store Jul 16, 2020

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020

Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...

Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics) Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Jul 2, 2020

Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics)

Editor’s note: It doesn’t happen very often, but sometimes you can have your cake and eat it too. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is one such occasion, where packed into an ultra-thin, ultra-modern watch, you get the two most practical complications a wristwatch can offer. A GMT and a chronograph. That’s right, in … ContinuedThe post Having your chrono and getting a GMT too with the mind-boggling Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic (lots of pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko I must have written May 15, 2020

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko

I must have written and rewritten this yarn half a dozen times. Every single moment I think I’ve cracked it, something in watch world happens that completely changes the narrative and content. First, everything got cancelled because of the pandemic we’re all sick of talking about. Then Patek and Rolex said no new watches this … ContinuedThe post James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase May 13, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design. In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal. For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a m...

Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon One Apr 22, 2020

Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon

One of the more interesting complicated watches launched in 2019 was a surprising one, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. While “Chronometer Tourbillon” might seem to be a pair of impressive words meaninglessly strung together as is often done for high-end watches, the Chronometer Tourbillon actually takes them seriously. Though the new watch doesn’t look particularly interesting – the design is handsome but conventional – it combines a particularly logical set of complications that were conceived for exact setting of the time, namely a hacking tourbillon with zero-reset carriage (and not just the seconds hand), and a minute hand that is set in discrete, one-minute steps. In fact, the Chronometer Tourbillon derived from the already sensible, but less fancy, Senator Chronometer that has many of the same time-setting functions. Though the Chronometer Tourbillon is an expensive watch by the standards of Glashütte Original, it is eminently sensible and smart from a technical perspective. And to prove that chronometric competence, Glashütte Original also tests the Chronometer Tourbillon to the German chronometer standard, DIN 8319, laid out by the country’s all-encompassing federal standards body. Testing takes place at the Sternwarte Glashütte, the town’s astronomical observatory, which was given a new lease of life by German watch retailer Wempe, which also has its own line of chronometer wristwatches. The process, however, is conduc...

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home SJX Watches
Apr 18, 2020

Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home

A tall man with a grave face who is always stylishly dressed, Auro Montanari is better known as John Goldberger, the pseudonym under which he has published over a dozen scholarly books dedicated to watches. Auro is best characterised as someone with diverse and deep interests, making him a truly interesting individual. So speaking with Auro is always a pleasure, which is something Phillips specialist Tiffany To recently managed to do. At home, stylishly. Photo – Auro Montanari Now at home in Bologna, a wealthy industrial hub that’s home to Lamborghini, Auro is putting the finishing touches to Time to Race, a near-500 page tome covering the watches worn by auto-racing champions of the mid-20th century, an era when drivers wore watches as a necessity, and not because they were brand ambassadors. Auro’s desktop with Time to Race in progress. Photo – Auro Montanari Highlights from Time to Race. Photo – Auro Montanari In a three-part interview, Auro discusses the upcoming book – “I love cars, I love watches, and I put them together and blend everything” – as well as his varied life. Though Auro is a industrial-control software entrepreneur by profession, his interests have taken him around the world in a hunt for watches, and he also lived the Californian dream for a spell in the 1980s. Auro, circa 1982. Photo – Auro Montanari The white gold ref. 3450. Photo – Auro Montanari He describes the years spent in Venice Beach, during which he chanced upon a whi...

Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch Time+Tide
Casio s 21st century take Mar 19, 2020

Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch

Casio’s G-Shock watches are already widely regarded as some of the toughest SOBs in the business, capable of taking more punishment than Tyson Fury and still coming back for more. But the Japanese watchmaker has seen fit to, aesthetically at least, step it up a notch, by taking some of their most iconic timepieces and … ContinuedThe post Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword watches Mar 6, 2020

Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors?

Editor’s note: Few other types of watches have transitioned so well from being utilitarian tools into weekend warriors as military-spec watches. Whether it be a broad arrow brandished member of the “Dirty Dozen”, a vintage Tudor Submariner used by the Marine Nationale or even a more contemporary Bremont Broadsword, watches that have been and are … ContinuedThe post Are mil-spec watches the perfect weekend warriors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002

Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Feb 20, 2020

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity

Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.  

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 21, 2020

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing

Editor’s note: In 2019 we saw the popularity of existing steel sports watches with blue dials hit fever pitch on the secondary market, as well as a number of brands release their own examples of the watch that everyone wants on their wrist. But what about when a brand produces a watch that doesn’t just … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2020

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck

Editor’s note: Making a unique and interesting timepiece is always a hard task, especially if you’re a nascent watchmaker that doesn’t have anywhere near as many runs on the board as the stalwarts of the industry. What’s harder, still, is making an idiosyncratic timepiece that also needs to meet the demanding rigours of a fit-for-purpose … ContinuedThe post Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2019

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers

For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 9, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial

2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph Time+Tide
Vertex Dec 4, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Oct 18, 2019

Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point

Editor’s note: Razor-sharp details, timeless style and a solid new movement make the Baume & Mercier Baumatic an excellent option for an everyday dress watch that doesn’t break the bank.  The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Baume & Mercier Baumatic – one of the best everyday dress watches at its price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont Oct 9, 2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2019

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic

The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...