Two Broke Watch Snobs
The New King Seiko Vanac Is Making the Grand Seiko Comparison Harder to Ignore
The new King Seiko Vanac HKF005 pairs a dark, Tokyo-inspired dial with Seiko’s Grand Seiko-derived 8L45 automatic movement.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new King Seiko Vanac HKF005 pairs a dark, Tokyo-inspired dial with Seiko’s Grand Seiko-derived 8L45 automatic movement.
Monochrome
In 2026, Panerai celebrates 100 years of its boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, Florence. Originally opened in 1926 as “Orologeria Svizzera”, the boutique became an important part of the Panerai family’s history, a place where watches were sold but also assembled and repaired. The preserved location, reopened to the public in 2001 following the renovation, […]
Hodinkee
If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to meet some of the team from Matador and was let in on a massive secret: Matador had plans to replace almost its entire line of soft goods. Unlike other manufacturers, this wouldn’t be a slow rollout or gradual discontinuation of lines; it was a hard stop, set for early August, almost an “end of an era,” if you will. Among the list of packs that were nearing their end was the GlobeRider line, which has become a regular in my rotation of bags. Thankfully, the Matador team had production samples on hand and was able to walk me through the changes and dispel my worries, and I’ve been putting one of these new models through its paces for about two months now. Back in June of 2025, I took Matador’s GlobeRider 35-liter on an almost two-week-long trip to Atlanta and Alaska and was genuinely impressed by the bag’s performance. In my initial review, I mentioned that while being larger than I needed, the Globerider never felt out of place, whether I was using it for EDC, bringing home groceries, or hauling around a hefty bit of camera kit. Since then, I’ve taken the GR35 on a weekend trip to Paris, used it countless times to haul gear and groceries throughout the city, and it’s earned itself a constant place in my small but packed gear closet. Having spent nearly two months with the new GTP, it has become clear to me that while this bag is something new, a significant amount of previous design DNA has remained. Most notably...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko expands its 5 Sports lineup with the HDB004 and HDB005, bringing fresh silver and green takes to the familiar SNZH-inspired design.
Monochrome
While Tutima gained popularity thanks to its purposeful pilot watches, aviation-themed chronographs and robust adventure-driven collections, one of the brand’s lineups certainly stands apart from the rest and shouldn’t go unnoticed. A tribute to the German school of watchmaking and the manufacture’s roots, the Patria collection celebrates classic designs and in-house watchmaking, done the Glashütte way. Elegant, […]
Time+Tide
Launching at FounderFest, meet the Furlan Marri Outback Songlines, with a chocolate dial, hunter caseback and a new three-link bracelet.
Fratello
Back in 2020, TAG Heuer introduced the Carrera Chronograph Sport for its 160th anniversary. The collection consisted of 44mm chronographs with either a stainless steel or ceramic bezel. Of course, they were attractive, with designs inspired by TAG Heuer’s rich racing history. However, I feel the 2023 Carrera Glassbox took much of the attention away […] Visit A Lap Around The Track With The Facelifted And Downsized TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport to read the full article.
Deployant
Reuben picks three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: the GP Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, MING 57.05 Comet and L’Epée The Football.
Monochrome
Chronoswiss founder Gerd Lang will forever be remembered as the watchmaker who produced the world’s first serially produced wristwatch with a regulator layout in 1987. Without a shared central axis, the separation of hours, minutes and seconds characteristic of regulators connects directly to the Digiteur of 2005, a digital regulator with jumping hours at noon, […]
Fratello
The way we tell time matters, and not just because we want to miss the train. The way we read time is also an experience. Digital time is just a series of numbers, while an analog timekeeper sweeps through time, showing you where it has been and where it is going. Call me a hopeless […] Visit The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Puts A Softer Spin On A Peculiar Watch to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code collection brings Rose, Sky and Mint dials to its distinctive handless mechanical digital display
Fratello
Vintage watches can seem intimidating when you first start looking. There are unfamiliar references, decades of production changes, questions about originality, and the ever-present possibility of an expensive service bill. But you don’t necessarily need a huge budget to get into vintage watches. In fact, €5,000 opens up a surprisingly broad selection. In this episode of Fratello […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Vintage Watches We’d Buy Under €5,000 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...
Hodinkee
Hello from (rather warm) Cupertino, California. Yet another year has flown by, which means once again we continue our more than a decade-long tradition of taking an extremely brief pause from traditional watchmaking to see what's up with the newest editions of the most popular and widely adopted watches in the world. They just happen to be fully digital. And yes, another year of us unpacking what it truly means to be a watch in the comments section. If you're like me and also a tech nerd, you've undoubtedly been following the rumors recently ahead of the launch. It's the first launch event since John Ternus' succession to Tim Cook as Apple's new CEO, and while Ternus stepped into the role a week ago, eyes are undoubtedly peeled to see what the next generation of Apple's designs might entail. But most of the noise was on the rumored foldable iPhone, with very little attention being paid to Apple Watch. Last year's updates were largely subtle changes from a design perspective, mostly around new functionality and small visual improvements. Series 12 — What's New? In short, not much. Those of us (me included) may be disappointed that there isn't a new physical redesign, with the current generation of design language carrying forward and no major changes to speak of. The real changes are under the hood: a new Health Sensing System paired with the S11 chip now takes a heart rate reading every five seconds, all day, and measures HRV up to 24 times more often than before—numbe...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex gives the Ironman Adrenaline an update with a 46.5mm case, 100m water resistance, and a price that raises some interesting questions.
Worn & Wound
One of the splashiest Geneva Watch Days releases this year was the all new M.A.D.3, the latest entry in the ongoing series from M.A.D.Editions, the popular MB&F; spinoff. You’re probably pretty familiar with the M.A.D. project at this point, but just in case you’re stumbling onto it here for the first time, a brief primer. Coming from many of the same people behind MB&F;, M.A.D.Editions was originally conceived as a way for brand founder Max Busser to thank his many longtime collaborators with an affordable watch that kept to the same avant-garde spirit of the high end luxury watches MB&F; has been making for years. That first watch was, apparently, not intended to ever be made widely available, a story that is perhaps apocryphal given the incredible success of the project across several release cycles. M.A.D.Editions is now a full fledged microbrand, with watches made available via highly competitive raffles on a regular basis. The brand has pledged to keep their watches affordable, relatively speaking, even as the overall quality of the pieces has been leveled up since the first watches appeared (they have moved to Swiss movements, and the finishing is noticeably nicer on newer watches, including the M.A.D.2 introduced last year). The new M.A.D.3 leans deeper into an idea we saw with the M.A.D.2, which is to make these watches a genuine collaboration with a friend of the brand. That watch was designed by Eric Giroud, a longtime MB&F; collaborator and one of the more ...
Time+Tide
Zelos just launched a new set of dials for the Helmsmann SS, with combinations of carbon fibre, natural stone and mother-of-pearl
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches: a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan, and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't like from the slew of novelties presented during the event. We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes. We also talk about Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, and the latest MAD Editions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:30 Tim Jeffreys0:32 TanTan Wang 3:38 Gallet (brand website) 5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee) 5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichron...
Deployant
GWD2026 which watches will Daryll pick this year? Daryl, ever the contrarian, makes his unconventional picks of the best of GWD26.
Monochrome
You might have heard of diamonds as endstones on the balance staff and the escapement, but putting them onto the balance wheel? Now, if you were to think of one watchmaker to do it, though, it would be Jacob & Co, never shy about challenging the conventions of high watchmaking. The new Brilliant Flying Tourbillon […]
Fratello
Whenever I review a genuinely fascinating example of haute horlogerie, I’m constantly reminded that one never stops learning about watches. Yes, these wildly creative pieces make me feel like a neophyte. And so it is whenever I hold a David Candaux creation. The watches look like nothing else, yet they’re pleasingly tactile and meant to […] Visit The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist! to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g unleashes a new, highly limited 02SERIES with a vibrant, fully luminescent green dial. This, is the Mantis
Monochrome
Alexandre Beauregard is a friendly character who has been gravitating toward the world of independent watchmaking for a few years now – although he is, above all, known for his expertise as a jeweller and gemmologist at his workshop in Montréal, Canada. Until recently, he had presented exclusively watch collections for women; in 2024, he […]
Fratello
Louis Vuitton is expanding the Tambour Spin Time collection with five new references, moving the latest generation of its distinctive jump-hour watch from limited editions into the permanent collection. The new watches retain the architecture introduced in 2025 but bring new colors, materials, gemstones, and a more varied set of executions. So, before your head […] Visit Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re all back home. Balazs has returned from Geneva, and Mike has come in after three weeks of being on the road. In this episode, we review the overarching trends at Geneva Watch Days 2026 along with the top releases. Enjoy the show! This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]
WatchRider
When shopping for a women’s automatic watch, finding something that steps outside of traditional designs without becoming overly complicated can be a challenge. The Timex Celestial Opulence Automatic (TW2T86300) is a watch that attempts to strike that balance. It draws inspiration from the night sky and pairs it with a traditional mechanical movement. However, as many owners quickly discover, its eye-catching design comes with a practical drawback that you should be aware of before making it your daily timepiece. The Appeal of the Celestial Opulence Design Let’s talk about the best part of the Timex TW2T86300: the way it looks. I am really drawn to the design of this watch, specifically the combination of black and gold. The watch features a gold-tone stainless steel case paired with a deep black dial. It’s a classic color combination that works with almost everything in my wardrobe. Whether I’m just wearing jeans and a t-shirt or dressing up a little bit for an evening out, the black and gold colorway manages to fit right in. It looks rich and warm, but the black keeps it grounded so it doesn’t look cheap or overly bright. The dial is where the “Celestial” name comes into play. It has a night sky theme, featuring small stars and Swarovski crystals acting as the hour markers. I usually don’t like crystals on watches because they can look tacky, but here they are small enough that they just look like distant stars catching the light. Another cool detail ...
Monochrome
Greubel Forsey introduced its impressive three-dimensional GMT complication in 2011. Equipped with a rotating globe and an inclined 24-second tourbillon regulator, the complications were housed in imposing cases with a protrusion to accommodate the globe and a windowpane on the flank to admire its rotations. Ten years later, the brand introduced another GMT model in […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
TAG Heuer updates the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a smaller 42mm case, revised dial, TH20-00 movement, and more.
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