4,097 articles · 387 videos found · page 126 of 150
Monochrome
Introduced in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watch turned many watchmaking conventions upside down. With no hands, no dial and no crown, the Freak was powered by an in-line movement pivoting on itself every 60 minutes to indicate the time. It was regulated by a dual direct escapement and introduced the watchmaking world to silicium (aka […]
Worn & Wound
Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot). The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...
SJX Watches
Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...
Worn & Wound
When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.
![[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/09/C05A4290.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Tudor has been on a roll this year with new additions to the Black Bay Chronograph collection. Just a few weeks ago, they dropped a new addition to its Black Bay Chronograph lineup: the Blue Boutique Edition. Since I recently picked up the pink dial variant, naturally I wanted to get my hands on the blue and see how it stacks up against my current favorite. Both models bring something unique to the table, but should you go out of your way to pick up either? Let me see if I can encourage some of ya’ll to come to the dark side with me! Starting with the classic (and widely available) Black Bay Chronograph, I had a chance to wear the white panda version a few months ago, and while I appreciated its solid build and good looks, something about it wasn’t quite right. I’ll be the first to admit that I am attracted to the Black Bay Chrono because of its similarities to its “big sister” chronograph, the Rolex Daytona. Since I’m not willing to pay gray market prices and getting one at retail is a grail move in itself, I’ve always considered the BB Chrono a solid alternative. I was super excited Tudor lent me the white panda as I had never gone hands on with one for more than 5 minutes. Upon putting it on my wrist I was totally down with the look of the thicker chronograph but something just wasn’t sitting right (literally). The oyster bracelet just felt too heavy for my taste and bulky in nature. I also found the lack of on-the-fly adjustability frustrating in the ...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...
SJX Watches
First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...
Monochrome
Just a couple of months ago, Doxa not only introduced a more compact version of its iconic helmet-shaped dive watch but also a unique new colour. Called Sea Emerald Green, it had a distinct sunray brushed finish paired with gold-toned hour markers and hands. Now though, Doxa expands this rich tone of green to other […]
SJX Watches
Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...
Monochrome
First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]
Fratello
I had studied it for months. I knew everything there was to know about it. The only issue was that I had never seen one in real life. The only way to get my hands on one was to order it online. So that’s what I did. It took its sweet time since I had […] Visit Gateway Watches: The Watches That Get Us Hooked And Locked In to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Andrew Morgan, the man behind Talking Hands of Watchfinder, gives us the secrets to compelling storytelling in this episode of Watches And.The post Andrew Morgan teaches us the secret to voiceovers in the latest episode of Watches And……. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Last year, I had a hands-on experience with the fun and affordable Orient Bambino 38. The watches were limited editions and available in four colors, each with a brown nubuck leather strap. To me, they seemed quite dressy with their soft pastel colors and the relatively formal-looking strap. Now Orient tries to make the Bambino […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Bambino 38 With Sportier, More Casual Attire to read the full article.
Deployant
We got our hands on the new Citizen SKY Mechanical GMT. Here are our thoughts on the watch after about 2 weeks on our wrist.
Fratello
This Monday morning, it is all about making crucial “bling” decisions. Not too long ago we had the pleasure of going hands-on with two diamond-set versions of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in white gold: the reference 126589RBR with a “Panda” mother-of-pearl dial on an Oysterflex bracelet and the reference 126579RBR with a “Reverse Panda” “MOP” […] Visit It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s common knowledge that the vast majority of watches use centrally mounted hands continuously rotating 360 degrees in a clockwise direction to tell time down to the hours and minutes, and most often the seconds. Often the seconds indication is moved to 6′ or 9′ and has its own separate sub-dial, but that pretty much […]
Monochrome
While the development of dive watches is dominated by some of the big names in the watch world, French brand Yema produced a 100m water-resistant dive watch in 1953. In the 1970s, Yema equipped the French Air Force with resilient tool watches, personified by the legendary Superman. Now in the hands of a French watchmaking […]
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Hodinkee
Hands-on with a vintage AP Disco Volante, and correcting the record on who really designed it.
Time+Tide
It's not often we get to see watches made for these elite forces, and we've managed to get hands on with two.The post An exclusive look at two military-issued Tudors for the French special forces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....
Worn & Wound
Timex continues to dig into their archives to reissue some of their most interesting models from the past. Take, for example, the Enigma. Originally released in 1975, the watch became known as the “Mystery Dial” among watch enthusiasts for its illusion of floating hands. To achieve this trick, Timex painted a navy dot on the underside of the crystal, which concealed the main hub. The hands were also painted a navy blue to blend into the dial, making it appear that the red and white details were floating. If you missed out on an original, you’re in luck. The Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue is launching today. Keeping true to the original design elements, the Enigma Reissue also got a few upgrades to modernize its appeal. First is the stainless steel case and bracelet, which nicely complement the navy blue dial and “floating” hands. The clean script of “Timex Quartz” at 9 o’clock and the day-date feature at 3 o’clock keep the dial clean and simple. The watch has a quartz movement with a 50-meter water resistance grade. Clocking in at 37mm and with an elongated cushion case shape, it’s a great size for both men’s and women’s wrists. The Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue will be available for purchase on the Timex website for $199. Timex Images from this post: The post Timex Updates the “Enigma” from 1975 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Worn & Wound
If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out. I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...
Hodinkee
Hands? Where We're Going, We Don't Need Hands.
Monochrome
Considering how time is indicated on most watches – hands rotating 360-degree around the dial – it is no surprise that the vast majority of timepieces available on the market have round cases. But there is always room for creativity, originality and audacity. Watches don’t have to be round to be either striking or elegant. […]
Monochrome
German brand Stowa was founded in 1927 and became one of the five official suppliers of B-Uhren to the German Luftwaffe. Capitalising on the brand’s rich aviation history, Stowa, now in the hands of Tempus Arte Group, released its first batch of contemporary pilot’s watches in 1997. While the reissues capture the classic looks of […]
Time+Tide
We got our hands on three of the five limited edition releases - the Casiotron, Full Metal Square G, and the Baby-G.The post Casio celebrates 50 years in electric blue and fluted gold of the Sky and Sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Many pilot’s watches, especially those of the Flieger variety, are designed with a specific purpose in mind: their wearers must be able to read the time in a split second. That’s why the dials feature large numerals, hands, and markers. This results in an iconic look that has many fans worldwide. On the other hand, […] Visit Introducing: The Laco Augsburg And Aachen Limited Editions In Green to read the full article.
Monochrome
Chronoswiss was founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd R. Lang, a celebrated watchmaker with a penchant for classical regulators. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein and based in Lucerne, Switzerland, Chronoswiss maintains its repertoire of dynamic regulator layouts with old-school decorative techniques jazzed up with wild colours. The Chronoswiss Delphis, launched […]
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