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Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph Among 3 days ago

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

Among the great surprises from Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Monaco Evergraph from TAG Heuer. The new model not only brought some welcome aesthetic changes to the iconic square chronograph, but also benefits from a core rethinking of the chronograph mechanism itself.  The Evergraph’s movement is notable in many respects, but the most interesting is the use of bi-stable compliant structures for the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts This year’s Watches & Wonders was marked by some interesting developments — not least some renewed emphasis on technical substance from a subset of brands. While mainstream luxury still dominates the market, there was a shift toward thoughtful engineering and incremental innovation that could be felt across many releases. One such remarkably technical release was the Evergraph from TAG Heuer.  While there’s no shortage of chronographs coming to market — from solid entry-level pieces to low-volume artisanal offerings — few are as genuinely forward-thinking as the Evergraph and its innovative TH80-00 movement. The TH80-00 was created by TAG Heuer in partnership with Vaucher Fleurier — a specialist noted for its expertise in chronographs — over a period of four years. TAG Heuer chose the longer road of developing a movement from ground up and not just applying its novel flexure chronograph mechanism to an existing base.  As a result, the brand had a clean slate to incorporate signature elements like the nine o’clock crow...

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Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bravur 3 days ago

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph

Bravur, the Swedish watch brand that has developed a very specific niche dedicated to cycling themed watches, has announced their latest in that ongoing series, the Grand Tour Sprinter. To this point, most of Bravur’s cycling watches have been limited releases tied to specific races. A cycling race, it turns out, really lends itself to creative watch design, as it allows a brand like Bravur to take advantage of the unique jersey colors associated with specific races as well as easy to recognize timing and texture nods that cyclists will immediately recognize but would be very subtle (and unobtrusive) for everyone else. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a little different. Rather than taking inspiration from any particular race, the Sprinter pulls from a racing concept and an important individual on any competitive cycling team.  A sprinter on a cycling team plays an important role reserved for the race’s final moments. Over the course of a long race, the sprinter is held back and protected by the rest of the team. Near the end of the race, the sprinter is repositioned with assistance from the rest of the team to make a break for it at the 1 kilometer mark. Timing the sprinter’s final run and orchestrating that moment is critical in a close race.  The Grand Tour Sprinter is a chronograph with many subtle and not-so-subtle nods to cycling and the role of the sprinter that is very much in keeping with previous Bravur watches in the same vein. Like other watches in this serie...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer Hodinkee
Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf 3 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Oris CEO Rolf Studer. Photo courtesy Oris.  Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case f...

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Introducing: De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk" In Collaboration With EsperLuxe Hodinkee
De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk 4 days ago

Introducing: De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk" In Collaboration With EsperLuxe

What We Know For me, a De Bethune has to take a cue from Miles Davis. It better be "Kind of Blue." Over at EsperLuxe, the indie retailer outside of Boston, it seems like they agree with me. There are a few firsts in the new DB27 "Night Hawk," at least for the DB27 collection. Normally called the "Titan Hawk," it's previously come in a slightly more straightforward package, with concentric "microlight" circles engraved on the dial, the patented articulating lugs, and the crown at 12 o'clock. But there are many features here that the DB27 hasn't had before. For the first time, a titanium flame-blued "Starry Sky" motif appears on the dial, with stars laid out to mark the date and location where EsperLuxe finalized its partnership with De Bethune in 2021. Not new, but a good look, are the printed silver Roman numerals on the sloping middle dial, the printed railroad track, and the 5-minute intervals. The watch features mirror-polished flame-blued titanium hands with silver tips. The case is polished grade 5 titanium, with a midcase engraved in De Bethune's microlight style. But the kicker is the super-cool (again, first time ever) matte-blue titanium short, articulating lugs.  I know that it's weird to go on and on about lugs, but some of you haven't had a chance to try on a De Bethune. Yes, the case is 43mm in diameter, 9mm thick (which is pretty good, considering it has an automatic movement), but with the hinge on the lugs, the lug can vary in range from about 50mm to 47mm...

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A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Horological Renaissance In The Age Of Cosimo I de’ Medici Worn & Wound
Tudor England 4 days ago

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Horological Renaissance In The Age Of Cosimo I de’ Medici

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Cosimo I de’ Medici (1519–1574), the first Grand Duke of Tuscany, is remembered as a masterful statesman who unified Florence’s power. Yet behind his political authority lay a profound curiosity for the sciences, especially the study of the heavens and the measurement of time. The Medici family rose to power in Florence primarily through their wealth and strategic use of the Medici Bank, which became the largest and most powerful bank in Europe during the 15th century. They leveraged this financial power to influence Florentine politics, eventually establishing themselves as the de facto rulers of the city, although they maintained the appearance of a republic.  They used their wealth and influence to transform Florence into a leading capital of trading and a place for the greatest creators to work and develop incredible scientific instruments, such as the clock in the Cathedral of Santa...

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Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe worldtime ref 2523 5 days ago

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer

Phillips’s upcoming sale The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII is packed with spectacular watches, including some already well known to collectors like the extra complicated La Royale by Louis Audemars, an unsual Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, and the Golay Fils & Stahl astronomical watch. But among the finest is a simple watch that tracks only the time and state of wind, yet is comprised of several hundred parts: Victor Kullberg No 6583. Behind those three hands is a one-minute tourbillon equipped with an Earnshaw detent escapement, a massive free-sprung compensation balance, anti-magnetic helical balance spring and reverse chain and fusee, making it one of the most elaborate three-hand watches imaginable. Even at its high estimate of US$102,000, this pocket chronometer amounts to something of a steal, especially in an auction where multiple steel sports watches carry much greater estimates. The cult of the chronometer Swiss and English horologists disagreed on a great many things, from the ideal shape and material of escape wheels to the definition of a chronometer. To the Swiss, the title of chronometer was bestowed based on merit as a timekeeper. Any watch could be one if it kept good time, especially with a trusted, independent attestation of its accuracy. Watches submitted to observatory trials — or tested according to the ISO 3159:2009 standard today — are chronometers by this reckoning. England was dominated by the cult of the [marine] chronometer, unsurprisin...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces 5 days ago

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26

There are a small handful of events where you just know you’re going to see new watch releases. Watches & Wonders, obviously. Our own Windup Watch Fairs, as well. And, as of late, missions to space of one kind or another tend to inspire brands with watches themed to space exploration, usually in partnership with organizations that have a stake in the mission. Oh, and F1 weekends in the United States. You can pretty much count on at least one of any number of brands tied to an F1 team to uncork something as interest in the sport peaks around races in one of our local time zones.  This past weekend saw the return of the Miami Grand Prix, and right on cue Tudor was ready with a new watch to mark the occasion. This one, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 is a direct follow up to last year’s Carbon 25, and like that watch is also a bit of a coproduction with Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Tudor began their partnership with the team relatively recently, in 2024, and have already released two limited edition watches, as of this weekend.  The Carbon 26 sees Tudor returning to the carbon fiber Black Bay Chrono case introduced last year, but in an updated dial color. This one borrows from the yellow, black, and white livery of the VCARB 03 car, with a white main dial, black subdials, and yellow accents throughout.  The case remains the same, measuring 42mm in diameter with a fixed tachymeter bezel along with screw down pushers and crown. It has the familiar lines of a Black ...

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Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always 5 days ago

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

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Stowa Introduces the Field Watch Terra Collection Worn & Wound
Tudor 5 days ago

Stowa Introduces the Field Watch Terra Collection

Far from the splashy and blingy arenas of the dive and dress watch world, the humble field watch nevertheless represents a key corner of every watch enthusiast’s heart. Versatile, wearable, and most importantly, durable, the field watch is getting its time in the sun with new releases from big brands like Tudor and Sinn, but it’s also remained a stalwart hero of the microbrand world. Straddling that gap is the German brand Stowa, who has been making mechanical watches since 1927. Known largely for their Bauhaus designs, their Fieldwatch collection occupies a more recent niche in the brand’s history. The new Stowa Terra Fieldwatch designs are keeping that adventurous spirit going.  Three new colorways debut with the Terra designation: Soil, Forest, and Desert. Following the field watch mantra of “less is more” each Terra model measures in at 38mm in diameter and 11.50mm in height to make for a relatively effortless wear on the wrist. Across the three models, the case is stainless steel and finished in a gray PVD coating for a tactical look. The Soil model sports a brown dial, with the Forest and Desert featuring “khaki” green and beige respectively. All three colors are muted and earthy, contrasting with the red minute markers around the minute track, a red Stowa icon below 12 o’clock, and the red-tipped seconds hand. In classic field watch fashion, there is no date window, and an inner 24-hour ring adds even more concentricity to the dial.  Black steel ha...

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SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Recap SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 1, 2026

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Recap

Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Rolex marked a century of the Oyster case with an enamel-dialled Daytona and new Oyster Perpetuals, but also revised the ugly duckling of the catalogue — the Yacht-Master II — transforming it into an appealing and interesting chronograph. Patek Philippe arguably overshadowed the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus with a new Celestial that’s capable of tracking sunrise and sunset year-round (at least in Geneva). Vacheron Constantin and Grand Seiko introduced titanium sports watches many had been waiting for, and TAG Heuer reinvented the chronograph with a fascinating compliant mechanism. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

What We Know Ahead of this weekend's Miami Grand Prix, Tudor has announced the Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26," a follow-up to last year's Carbon 25. While Tudor's ties to motorsport date back to the late 1960s with the Tudor Watches Racing Team, its current partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls team began in 2024, and they have been quick to make the most of it, with two limited editions in two consecutive seasons. The Carbon 25 marked the first limited-edition release from that relationship, with the Carbon 26 continuing the same approach in 2026. At its core, the update centers on a revised color scheme reflecting the livery of the VCARB 03 car. The watch retains a 42mm carbon fiber case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, along with a titanium caseback, crown, and pushers with a black PVD finish. The dial remains "racing white," now with yellow accents and carbon fiber subdials. The carbon fiber case, introduced last year, carries over unchanged. It replaces the steel case used in standard Black Bay Chronographs, while keeping the same 42mm diameter, fixed tachymeter bezel, screw-down crown, chronograph pushers, and overall case profile. Inside is the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch, silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified, and it also meets Tudor's more rigorous standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. The Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26" is priced at $8,625, produced in a...

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A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sealander Apr 30, 2026

A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander

With Christopher Ward, we spend a lot of time talking about the Loco and Bel Canto, and rightly so. Those are both watches that have radically reshaped how we think about the brand, and set expectations for new releases at an impossibly high level. But realistically, it’s the Sealander that is the defining watch in the Christopher Ward catalog. It’s existed for a long time and is almost a brand unto itself. But the core of the line has been relatively unchanged for several years at this point and was due for a refresh. That comes this week, as the brand has launched what they describe as a “comprehensive re-engineering” of the Sealander GMT and Sealander Automatic that includes both subtle aesthetic updates as well as significant mechanical improvements.  The Sealander GMT adds a 42mm case size to the existing lineup that includes 36mm and 39mm sizes. The case has retained its fluid, classic sports watch lines, but the bezel angle has been shifted to be less angled than previous iterations of the watch.  Dial options include white and sky blue in all three case sizes, with a pistachio option available only in 39mm, and a black dial available in 39mm and the new 42mm size. The dials are polished lacquer and now include longer indices and a GMT hand that has been redesigned to be more proportionate and is also fully lacquered. The “Sealander” wordmark also appears on the dial, at 6:00, for the first time. The Sealander GMT is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 cali...

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Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 30, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...

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Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces New Watches Apr 29, 2026

Farer Introduces New Watches in the Pilot Series

This month, I’ll be on 12 flights across four cities, two continents and nearly three weeks away from home, so – yeah – I’ve been thinking a lot about planes lately. Perhaps, quite coincidentally, Farer has been, too, with the launch of their new Pilot Collection Series II, with three new models debuting. The collection has been redesigned around a 40mm Grade 2 titanium case, with a bead-blasted finish and a brushed bezel with a coin-edge profile. Across the line, Farer keeps the focus on legibility and performance, using large markers, broad minute tracks and lozenge-shaped hands applied with Grade X2 Super-LumiNova.  Powering each watch is the Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. Since cockpits can be highly magnetic environments, Farer has protected the movement with an internal soft iron Faraday cage, giving the watches anti-magnetic resistance up to 500 Gauss – these are the little details of Farer that go beyond just theming a watch and making it functional and operational to those that inspired the collection. The Curtis, named for English aviator and flight test engineer Eleanor Lettice Curtis, uses a blue-grey guilloché dial divided into twelve slightly concave sections, catching the light in a way reminiscent, as Farer notes, to the motion of a propeller. It has applied Lumicast markers, pale yellow lume and orange accents, with an additional Curtis Eastern Arabic edition limited to 100 pieces. The Barnwell is...

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Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A384 Gets A Tropical Overlay (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...

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Anoma Debuts Two New References as Part of their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2026

Anoma Debuts Two New References as Part of their Permanent Collection

Matteo Violet-Vianello founded Anoma back in 2024 with a crystal-clear concept that noticeably drew from the worlds of architecture and design as well as forms in nature. The brand’s debut offering set the tone for what has quickly become Anoma’s trademark: a triangular case. Those who follow the brand on Instagram well know that the brand’s cult following has become, dare I say obsessed with finding the soft, triangular form with rounded edges in the wild, citing pieces of furniture, buildings, river stones and other everyday objects that mimic the shape. From the get-go, Anoma has taken the approach of dropping limited edition collections rather than having a permanent catalog. The A1 First Series from 2024 was notable for its two-tone blue dial and was quickly followed up by two variations the following year: the A1 Slate offering a more neutral color palette and later the A1 Optical offered in two colorways – one monochromatic and the other two-tone – each highlighting a guilloche dial that has the unique and organic appearance of a fingerprint. Now, Anoma departs from its own tradition of highly limited executions, creating its first core collection. The new anchors for the brand include the A1 Abyss and A1 Stone. The pair very clearly echo models of the past with the Abyss giving us a twist on the First Series with a singular shade of blue that’s a bit lighter and brighter than the original two-tone. At first glance, this model appears simple, but there...

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Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics) Hodinkee
Cartier Apr 28, 2026

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics)

It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record.  That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...

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Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Apr 28, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial

Marking the centenary of its signature Oyster case, Rolex has introduced a new polychrome ‘Jubilee’ dial for the Oyster Perpetual 36. An appealing new variant of a tangibly excellent product, the Jubilee dial will likely appeal to both experienced Rolex collectors as well as those who have historically found the brand’s designs too sedate. Initial thoughts Rolex is a brand that takes itself seriously. At times, the brand’s product development cycle seems to move at a glacial pace, but this is part of the discipline that has made Rolex the most successful maker of luxury watches by some margin — collectors have learned they can trust Rolex to keep a good thing going. So when the brand decides to have a little fun, it’s almost shocking. The brightly coloured Jubilee dial motif — built up of 10 layers of coloured lacquer — is certainly fun, and reminiscent of the ‘Celebration’ dial launched in 2023 in both 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. The Jubilee model pictured is the 36 mm size, but the design is also available in 41 mm (ref. 134300) and 31 mm (ref. 277200). The ‘Celebration’ dial was launched in 2023 in both 41 mm (left) and 36 mm sizes. The Oyster Perpetual 36 case keeps its nearly ideal proportions — small and sleek enough to disappear under a shirt cuff but chunky enough to hold its own with short sleeves. Substantively, it could make a proverbial ‘one-watch collection’ but given its exuberant dial will probably appeal most to seasoned collectors...

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Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

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The New Spring Novelties from Fears Worn & Wound
Fears Apr 27, 2026

The New Spring Novelties from Fears

Revitalized British brand Fears has made many waves in the independent watch scene in recent years, building a reputation for vintage-inspired timepieces backed by robust modern movements, and distinctive styling. Now, Fears releases their first pilot’s watch in 180 years, alongside several new iterations of core collection favorites, to round out a slate of spring novelties that carry forward the brand’s unique combination of youthful innovation and historically-informed aesthetics. First up is that pilot watch: named for Filton, a town neighboring the Fears homebase in Bristol that is largely known for housing the Bristol Aeroplane Company, the Brunswick 40 ‘Filton’ aims to capture the adventurous air of early flight. The Filton sits within the Brunswick 40mm line, giving it a recognizable silhouette with added functionality. A date window at 6 o’clock introduces the complication to the Brunswick 40 line for the first time, and the Raven Black sunburst and Squadron Green gradient dial options evoke cockpit instruments and vintage squadron markings respectively. Applied numerals in Fears’ own ‘Edwin’ typeface hammer home the early 20th century look, with a triangle at 12 o’clock to promote legibility. Sword pipette hands round out the design, with the Raven Black model also featuring a “ghost effect’ with matching black hand centers. Inside, a reliable La Joux-Perret G100 automatic caliber movement beats away, and the Filton sits on a chocolate brown...

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Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60 SJX Watches
Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60

Accomplished movement constructor Dominique Renaud makes a compelling return with the Pulse 60, a slow-beating timepiece featuring a 1 Hz oscillator. An important name in the post-quartz era, Mr Renaud has recently re-emerged alongside Julien Tixier under the Renaud Tixier brand. The Pulse 60 marks his first signed watch in nearly a decade — following the million-dollar DR01 Twelve First, which resulted in a single unique piece. Initial thoughts When speaking today of advancing the theory and practice of horology, the conversation usually centres around cutting-edge materials, novel tribology research or reimagined complications. The Dominique Renaud (DR) Pulse 60 contradicts this trend and instead goes back in time to put a new spin on an old idea.  The slow beating 1 Hz Pulse 60 bets on classic chronometry, when heavy balances paired to slow and steady running rates were the champions of precision. Going one step further, DR slowed the oscillator to 1 Hz — or just one oscillation per second. In the era of ever-higher frequencies, the counterintuitive choice seems at first like a deliberate act of self-sabotage.  But after analysing the novel movement in the Pulse 60, it’s my opinion that it should prove to be a reliable timekeeper, and more than just a proof of concept. After Antoine Martin’s ill-fated Slow Runner, DR has produced a fully functioning 1 Hz timepiece by employing a smaller balance and — crucially — raising the amplitude ceiling to over 360°....

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tim Cook Steps Down, a James Brand Favorite Gets an Upgrade, and Amazing Photos From Artemis II Worn & Wound
Apr 25, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tim Cook Steps Down, a James Brand Favorite Gets an Upgrade, and Amazing Photos From Artemis II

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Artemis II Flyby Photos It’s easy to plunge oneself into the nihilism that is our current political landscape, but the photos taken during the Artemis II mission offered something of an unfamiliar sensation upon viewing them. What was it…I can almost put my finger on it…oh yeah, a sense of hope.  Taken during Artemis II’s seven-hour flyby around the Moon on April 6, these images show the lunar far side in remarkable detail, along with an in-space solar eclipse. While, of course, this feat in itself is impressive, there was something else that seemed to touch the hearts and imagination of us back on Earth – a trust in science, a camaraderie with our Canadian neighbors (one of the astronauts on board was Jeremy Hansen with the Canadian Space Agency), and a change in perspective that, no matter what’s buzzing in the news cycle, we really are just a little blue marble rolling around the universe. Beef, Season 2 Netflix’s original series Beef is back for a second season, garnering similar critical acclaim as its first. This season, we meet an all-new cast, including Oscar Isaac, Carey Mulligan, Charles Melton, and Cailee Spaeny, and an all-new drama, focused ...

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eBay Finds: A Rare Omega Seamaster, a Vintage Hamilton Chronograph, and an Unusual Mystery LED Watch Worn & Wound
Hamilton Chronograph Apr 24, 2026

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega Seamaster, a Vintage Hamilton Chronograph, and an Unusual Mystery LED Watch

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Constellation  To start you off this week with something a little fancy, this vintage Omega Constellation. This one has to be from the late 1970s or early 1980s judging from the design. It has a slim (34mm) square steel case with a square dial and integrated bracelet. It’s not blingy, but I call it fancy because it just has that slim almost 80’s look that just seems….fancy. The silver dial has a vertical texture to it, with slim markers and slimmer hands. The original crystal has a date magnifier for the date window at 3 o’clock. The recessed crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. The steel bracelet is also signed and integrated into the case. The caseback medallion is engraved instead of the applied gold one often seen on the Constellations. No movement pictures but it runs well per the seller.  View auction here Vintage LED Watch  It’s been a minute since I found a good LED watch, but this week I found a fun one. This one appears to be unbranded, which is unusual. It has the classic vintage LED space age style case. The case is a good size at 35mm and in nice condition, with sharp edges and original brushed finish. The red LED window is good as...

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Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026 Hodinkee
Ming experience Apr 24, 2026

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year, as spring returns to the shores of Lake Geneva, bringing with it contrasting days of grey rainy dreariness and crisp, shimmering sunshine, a storm descends upon the picturesque canton. But this storm doesn't contain the aforementioned April showers; instead, it's thousands upon thousands of passionate professionals, journalists, retailers, brand representatives, and collectors, all congregating for that most celebrated of horological weeks: Watches & Wonders. For those who attend, it is a marathon of epic proportions, with days spent rushing from one appointment to the next with barely a moment to breathe and evenings spent either at fabulous dinners or hunched over laptops until the wee hours of the morning. It's a pace that gives you whiplash (and for those who work for the brands, be it in sales, PR, marketing, or otherwise, it is even more grueling). For everyone else following along at home with a love for watches, it is the Super Bowl, Christmas Morning, and the Emerald City at the end of the Yellow Brick Road, all rolled into one. Walking into the show for the first time is an overwhelming experience. The sheer scope and scale of the installations (to call them 'booths' deeply undersells the grandeur) are hard to understand. Each brand spends months, if not years, designing and building entire flagship boutiques within the halls of Palexpo, each trying to make an impact on the industry and communicate its themes, strategies, and identity for the coming ye...

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Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Anniversaire” Collection My Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection

My appointment with Parmigiani Fleurier at last year’s Watches & Wonders was one of those meetings where it all kind of clicked for me. I loved those perpetual calendars they introduced, and for the first time since I’ve been working in the watch industry, the insider hype around Parmigiani really began to make sense. They are one of the ultimate “if you know you know” brands, at least among the mainstream exhibitors at Watches & Wonders, but they had always kind of eluded me.  This year’s big novelty was a very interesting chronograph that I wrote about here. I saw that watch, of course, and it’s very special. The movement is mindblowing – there’s simply no other chronograph quite like it, and it kind of takes seeing it in action to fully comprehend. It’s ability to go from a simple time only three hander to a five handed ultra complicated never before seen chronograph execution in a literal blink of an eye (and back again) is incredibly cool.  The new Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux But, I have to say, with every Tonda PF release, I become more aware that it just isn’t the corner of Parmigiani that appeals to me. The case just doesn’t really work on my wrist or sing to me in the way other similar watches sometimes do. The Toric, on the other hand, always does. This really feels like the distillation of what the brand is about, or at least how I understand it. The case is remarkably simple at a glance, but close examination reveals that every deta...

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