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Review: the new Hermès CUT
At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, Hermés released a new model lineup which they call CUT. We got our hands on one, and here is our review.
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At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, Hermés released a new model lineup which they call CUT. We got our hands on one, and here is our review.
SJX Watches
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Fratello
For some reason, watches with a jumping-hour complication always intrigue me. The fact that they don’t necessarily need to have traditional hands inspires designers to do things differently. They come up with original ways of displaying the time. Sometimes, there’s just a simple hour window and an additional minute hand. But the watches can also […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Jumping-Hour Watches From Bell & Ross, Gérald Genta, And Breguet to read the full article.
Deployant
Here we bring you our hands on, comprehensive review of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hand wound Mechanical High Beat SLGW003 in Brilliant Hard Titanium.
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
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Model refresh is the order of the day with Speake Marin. And here are our impressions after the hands-on, live from PalExpo.
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We covered the press release with commentary by Frank Chuo on Monday, and today, we are have our hands-on session. Here are our imppressions.
Deployant
We kick off this Friday morning with our hands-on session at Piaget . And give you this hands-on live report. See it with us.
Worn & Wound
Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...
Monochrome
Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]
Deployant
UN releases a Freak with a new release for 2024 - the Freak S Nomad. No dial, no crown and no hands. Return to conceptual origins of The Freak.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We love new Grand Seiko releases. And on top of that, sometimes we enjoy making fun of new Grand Seiko releases. Really, it all comes from a good place and I have to admit-as gimmicky as some of the releases are, every once in a while Grand Seiko nails it. It's how I feel about the new 9F Quartz Snowflake, by the way. While it's still a random nature-inspired watch, I'm finding the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley to be one of the most visually attractive releases of Watches & Wonders 2024, so far.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...
Worn & Wound
Back in March of last year, Zach Weiss reviewed the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique. This was a case where the headline really said it all, but of course the whole review is worth a read for a fuller context. I had some hands-on time with this watch as well, and agree completely with his sentiments. Describing the watch as “very reasonable” is really essential to understanding it. It’s not extraordinary, it’s not a revolution in watchmaking. It’s a deeply adequate and relentlessly normal execution of tried and true sports watch format: the skin diver. And that’s OK! The entire idea of the modern skin diver is really based on the fact that a handful of brands really nailed the design decades ago. It’s not a platform that needs to be played with. There are lots of new versions of this type of watch from a huge variety of brands, and I think “reasonable” is really what most of them should be shooting for. Vulcain has just announced a total of four new variants of the Nautique Skindiver, and they strive to offer a little more variety than the initial drop from last spring. New dial variants include options in orange, brown, and green, as well as a new reference with a bronze case and black dial, and a very striking variant in yellow gold plate with a dial in a dark shade of blue. This one, I have to admit, is a little outside the bounds of reasonable, and might be striving for something a little more. All of the new Skindiver Nautique variants have the same 38...
Deployant
The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse represents a fascinating blend of vintage inspiration and modern horology. Its design pays homage to the brand's storied past while embracing contemporary aesthetics and functionality. The dial looks like a regular 3 hands timepiece but is actually a 60 seconds monopusher with a nicely finished column wheel horizontal clutch movement.
Revolution
In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]
Monochrome
Since its creation in 2001, MeisterSinger has been seen as the master of the single-hand watch. Unlike most timepieces on the market (at least 99% of them), which display the time with 3 hands – hours, minutes, seconds – MeisterSinger’s models have a different, slightly poetic and slower approach to time with a mono-aiguille that […]
Fratello
The rigors of everyday life can wreak havoc on your skin. Your hands and wrists in particular have to withstand multiple sessions in which you wash and sanitize them. Most often, the result is irritated and cracked skin that can become extremely dry. And it shows - in your Instagram posts, for instance. Independent research […] Visit New In Our Shop: Fratello Wrist Butter - You Know You Want It, Your Wrist Needs It, And Your Watch Deserves It to read the full article.
Monochrome
Picture a classic dive watch… It’ll probably be made of steel, with a robust case, a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale, a black dial with large luminous markers and a set of three hands, with an enlarged minute hand and a necessary seconds hand to indicate that your watch is running (basically, I’ve just […]
Monochrome
Trilobe, a youthful indie watchmaker established in 2018 by Gautier Massonneau, embarked on its creative journey five years prior, germinating the seeds of innovation that would blossom into its subsequent creations. The inaugural series Les Matinaux, named after René Char’s 1950 poem collection, offered a unique “no hands”, wandering time display characterised by rotating discs […]
Deployant
We got our hands on two of the most desirable medium format cameras in the market today. The Fujifilm GFX 100 II and the Hasselblad X2D 100C.
Fratello
It is not difficult to recognize a simple time-only watch from the 1940s. There are tons of them. They have either plain dials or dials with Arabic numerals. Not many watches from that time had hours marked with Roman numerals, and even fewer had so-called Pontife hands. And this is the first time I’ve found […] Visit #TBT Dress To Impress With A Pontife-Handed Alpina Cal. 586 to read the full article.
Deployant
Citizen releases the Series 8 / 890 mechanical collection. We got our hands to test out the NB6060-58L for two weeks and present this detailed review.
Fratello
The Baltic Hermétique collection consists of colorful and vintage-inspired field watches. I say “colorful” because, initially, it was “only” available in brown, green, beige, and blue. Somehow, I didn’t even notice that a black or white option wasn’t available. But one of our readers left a comment underneath Thomas’s hands-on article expressing his surprise at […] Visit Introducing The Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition In Black And White to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we bring news of a much-anticipated debut. The Fleming Series 1 is finally here, and we were able to go hands-on with a pre-production Tantalum model. This is a stunner in the truest sense, but I warn you that it isn’t an entry-level watch. This watch has an all-star cast behind it. Let’s take […] Visit Introducing: The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum to read the full article.
Fratello
Earlier this week, we covered the introduction of the new Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT. It’s a watch I can’t wait to find out more about soon in a hands-on review. In the meantime, the brand has released another noteworthy new C65 Dune model. Christopher Ward and Oracle Time present the new C65 Dune Shoreline. […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Oracle Time C65 Dune Shoreline to read the full article.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet reveals new models that showcase the evolutionary design introduced on the first stainless steel Code 11.59 references in 2023. To update the more subdued and widely criticized design of previous dials, a unique “signature” embossed dial pattern has been specially created for this collection, together with different hands and markers, in collaboration between […]
Fratello
After many months in the making, the VPC Type 37HW is here, and I have the distinct pleasure of penning this hands-on introduction. We often ask ourselves, “Is it impossible to be original when endeavoring to design a new watch? Have all paths in crafting this functional object truly been taken? Have we seen it […] Visit Introducing: The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Daniel Craig had it first, but now the whole world can get their hands on the new white lacquer-dialled Omega Speedmaster Professional.The post Omega adds a white dial to the Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Origine by Sylvain Pinaud is an essentially simple watch telling only the time with three hands. The commitment to execution puts him on a level with some of the greats and is a good indicator that we will see a lot more from this burgeoning young brand.
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