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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.
Opinion: Gifting Metal Worn & Wound
Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

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[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 14, 2023

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions.   First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...

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Our favourite Nomos watches of all time Time+Tide
Nomos watches Jun 14, 2023

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time

Considering that Nomos only released their first watches a little over 30 years ago, they have made a considerably strong impact on the watch world. While perfecting a style of minimalism that’s deliberate rather than lazy, the Bauhaus inspiration and high-end German manufacturing have helped their reputation soar among both large collectors and casual enthusiasts. … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Nomos watches of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Big Jun 13, 2023

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis

Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00.  When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...

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Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Releases Jun 12, 2023

Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche

Sometimes, weird things happen on the watch release calendar that result in an almost mystical kind of synergy. We didn’t plan today as “racing inspired chronograph day,” but the surprise release of a new Rolex Daytona paying tribute to the 100th anniversary of Le Mans and an equally surprising new Seiko chronograph with more than a little racing and competitive timing heritage means that today is all about the many flavors of tracking elapsed time. Rounding out a trilogy of new chronographs today, we have news of the latest limited edition from Porsche Design, a special variant of the Chronograph 1 celebrating 75 years of Porsche.  As car enthusiasts are likely well aware, this year marks the 75th anniversary of the first Porsche, the 356 No. 1 roadster. In the decades since, Porsche has become not just one of the most important carmakers in the world, but one of the most recognizable brands of any type. Porsche vehicles are known all over the world, and their iconic silhouettes and designs can be easily recognized even by people who don’t count themselves as car aficionados. The new watch, according to Porsche Design, is a tribute to the culture and legacy Porsche has built.  The Chronograph 1 75 Years of Porsche Edition is very similar to the 1972 Limited Edition variant of the watch released last year, and discussed by Blake here. The differences are honestly so minute, they might only be appreciated by the most rabid Porsche Design collectors, but this is a ...

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Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Pays Tribute Jun 12, 2023

Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer

You can put this one in the category of: We Didn’t See it Coming. Seiko has just launched a new Prospex branded version of a watch that can be described as a true cult hit of the early aughts, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. If you’re scratching your head trying to remember the Sportura and coming up empty, perhaps you know it as “the Jay Leno,” as the former Tonight Show host is fond of wearing one while tooling around in steam powered fire trucks from the 1910s, or whatever. The Sportura’s fans, though, are legion. Our co-founder Zach Weiss is a Sportura owner, and I don’t think he even drives a Duesenberg.  The new watches are being framed as a new chapter in the ongoing story of Seiko as a timer of competitive sporting events, which dates back to the 1960s. The conceit of the Sportura was a deconstructed chronograph display that shows elapsed time in three separate dial displays, each covered with a small custom crystal, which must have been terribly expensive and difficult to fabricate. The new watches (there are four in total) are simpler, with a layout that consists of a main dial for the time at 6:00, with what amounts to a trio of subdials arcing over it that display elapsed time. On the new watches, everything is part of one dial, so we lose some of that weird disconnected feeling, but much of the aesthetic sensibility remains.  Functionally, they’re a bit different from the originals, as you’d expect given advancements in movement tech. While Kinet...

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We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… Time+Tide
Jun 12, 2023

We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter…

Confucius once said, “Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life”. I think I can safely speak for all of us here when I say this is the best part of being a member of the T+T team. We all love watches, watch culture, and presenting … ContinuedThe post We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans Worn & Wound
Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Jun 12, 2023

Rolex Shock Drops New Daytona Commemorating 100 Years of LeMans

This weekend marked the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans at the Circuit de la Sarthe in France, and Rolex took full advantage of the occasion with the release of a new Daytona with a dial that recalls the now famous ‘exotic’ dial, aka Newman dial, of older references. This release is surprising for a few reasons, and may even offer some insight to what we might expect from Rolex moving forward. We’ll get to all that, but in many ways, this is the Daytona that enthusiasts have been asking for since the late ‘80s – it’s the ‘greatest hits’ watch, perfectly capitalizing on the the new Daytona chassis released just earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, which we went hands-on with right here. First and foremost, Rolex is not in the habit of dropping new releases outside of their regular yearly cadence. We last saw it with the release of the Deepsea Challenge in late 2022, the first commercial Rolex to tout their RLX titanium material. While that watch could be considered something of an outlier, given its rather extreme nature, the Daytona is another story entirely. This new reference, the 126529LN officially, joins the new collection as a regular production model. That reference number ends in four characters that have never appeared together in the Daytona family, the 29 indicating a full white gold case and bracelet, and LN, or Lunette Noir, meaning it sports a black Cerachrom bezel. Vintage Rolex Daytona reference 6263 with exotic dial The firs...

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A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix which Jun 11, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More

With our first year behind us (thanks for all the well wishes!), we’re back with episode 53 of A Week In Watches with new releases from Tissot, Breguet, Seiko & more. One of our favorite watches of the summer (thus far) has come from Tissot, and it’s a forged carbon regatta timer called the Sideral. Yes, it’s a callback to something they’ve done in the past, and yes, it’s still awesome. With a carbon case and Powermatic 80 movement, this is a ton of watch (and funk) for about $1,100, see more here. Elsewhere, Breguet gives us a first look at new Type 20 and Type XX watches, with a stunning new movement and a date window that may leave you scratching your head. Head to the video on YouTube to give us your take on the date, as well as the rest of the watches in this week’s episode. Rounding things out, we’ve got news of a new Pontos S Diver from Maurice Lacroix, which is a welcome site from the brand, though we wonder if it could have done with a slight bit of modernization? Speaking of, Seiko has modernized their King Seiko with a trimmer case architecture and a new movement which brings a date to the regular production modern King Seiko. Finally, IWC has brought the silver dial back to the Mark Pilot watch and it works about as well as you’d expect, which is to say, pretty damn well. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com....

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Patek Philippe Nautilus: Analysis of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Analysis Jun 11, 2023

Patek Philippe Nautilus: Analysis of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years – Reprise

How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.

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New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona revealed Jun 10, 2023

New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know

New 18K white gold Rolex Daytona with special visual cues celebrates 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans race Uses a new 4132 calibre exclusive to the model that features a 24-hour counter rather than the standard 12-hour counter US$51,400 and not announced as a limited edition Rolex is typically viewed as the unfaltering … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options Time+Tide
Porsche Design s new Chronograph 718 Jun 10, 2023

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options

As the famous slogan goes, “Porsche…there is no substitute”. A young Tom Cruise knew it after outrunning the bad guy with his father’s 928 in 1983’s Risky Business, and the legend rings true more than ever today. In celebration of the introduction of the new 718 Spyder RS, Porsche Design has made an introduction of … ContinuedThe post When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent Rive Droite Team Up for New Casquette 2.0 Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Jun 9, 2023

Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent Rive Droite Team Up for New Casquette 2.0

What began two years ago with a novelty produced for the 2021 edition of Only Watch has turned into a commercially available limited edition once again in the form of a collaboration between Girard-Perregaux and Saint Laurent. This is the Casquette 2.0 Saint Laurent 01, and if it looks a bit familiar to you, that’s because a very similar version was released last year. What was a mostly black affair has turned into an entirely black affair with this latest collaborative effort. The watch itself is still as unconventional as ever, recalling the original from 1976 (side note, what a legendary year for watches) in all its funky glory, and this time, it’s limited to just 100 units.  The Casquette is a conceptually interesting watch in that it captures an era and technology and design that departs from any established norms enough to stand out, but not enough to become impractical. It’s an alternate solution that we’ve seen manifest in a number of ways from other brands, from Bulova to MB&F;, but Girard-Perregaux captured it at its simplest, and most straightforward. The black ceramic case measures 42.40 x 33.60mm, and though it measures 14.6mm in thickness, it’s a tapering design to conform to the wrist, meaning it’s quite wearable thanks to the ergonomics of the case and narrow link bracelet. Where last year’s release had uncoated titanium components, this newest collaboration uses black PVD coated titanium components, such as the G-P badge, for a fully blacked ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex celebrates 100 years of Le Mans, while Philippe Dufour is a birthday boy Time+Tide
Rolex celebrates 100 years Jun 9, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex celebrates 100 years of Le Mans, while Philippe Dufour is a birthday boy

With our globetrotting editor out and about on a Paris adventure discovering the Type XX, I thought I’d jump in and cover some of this week’s biggest happenings. In lieu of a Formula 1 Grand Prix this weekend, we’re treated to the absolute peach that is the 24 Hours of Le Mans, held at the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex celebrates 100 years of Le Mans, while Philippe Dufour is a birthday boy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Certina Introduces Two Very Different and Intriguing Dive Watches to DS Action Diver Lineup Worn & Wound
Certina Introduces Two Very Different Jun 8, 2023

Certina Introduces Two Very Different and Intriguing Dive Watches to DS Action Diver Lineup

Certina continues to be a deep-cut watch brand for us folks here in the United States, but for our friends across the Atlantic (and the watch nerds located stateside alike), the value oriented brand remains a fixture amongst the watch community. There’s plenty to enjoy from Certina’s catalog and since their return to the U.S. market in 2021, they’ve hit the ground running with successful releases that include the DS PH200M, the DS Action GMT and in my opinion, the best-kept-secret midsize diver out there with the DS Action Diver 38mm. Sure you’ll occasionally get a curveball from the brand with a dress watch or two, but Certina is at their best when they operate within the lane of their DS Action line. In a span of a couple of months, Certina has bolstered their bread-and-butter collection with the addition of two intriguing divers – a serious, blacked-out DS Action Diver 43mm and a proper midsized titanium offering with the DS Action Diver 38mm. The DS Action Diver is a straightforward, no-fuss diver solidified by traditional design, a “Diver’s Watch” designation meeting ISO 6425 standards and an 80-hour power reserve equipped automatic movement. What separates the new DS Action Diver 43mm from the rest of the line is its stealthy appearance. The stainless steel case is layered with a PVD coating, all around from the lug ends to the crown guard tips and caseback. From the photos provided, it seems that any light hitting the case falls flat, but the bezel...

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Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup Worn & Wound
Norqain Adds Jun 8, 2023

Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup

The latest release from Norqain capitalizes on a recent color trend while steering the brand back from the tech forward, ultra sporty Wild One that has been the brand’s primary focus since late last year. The Freedom 60 Chrono Ice Blue Limited Edition, in a 40mm case size, sits on the opposite end of the spectrum of Norqain’s increasingly varied catalog, which now includes watches made with unusual proprietary materials and an increasing stock of limited editions. The Freedom 60 Chrono takes a more vintage inspired approach, but this version has been given a super sleek colorway that is quite contemporary.  The Freedom 60 Chrono seen here has an ice blue dial with a subtle sunray effect, and is dotted with three black subdials providing readouts for elapsed minutes, hours, and running seconds. The dial has a two layer construction with the subdials sitting below the main dial for added depth, and a matching black outer ring with a white tachymeter scale for contrast. The hour markers are diamond cut and rhodium plated, and have small old radium colored lume tips at their inside edge. The date window at 4:30 is color matched to the ice blue dial, and in these photographs appears to be very well executed, proving that it is, in fact, possible to deliver a three register layout and 4:30 date window without completely fumbling the bag.  The secret weapon here is really the case. The 40mm incarnation of the Freedom 60 case is dramatically more wearable and in proportion t...

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