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LIST: Thor Svaboe’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

LIST: Thor Svaboe’s 5 favourite articles of 2020

In a tough year, what better way to cheer yourself up than great articles on our beloved wrist-worn wonders. Hopefully you’ve enjoyed our content, whether languishing in lockdown or in a home office that’s hopefully more spacious than my little writer’s den (I gallantly offered the larger space to the wife). These are my favourite … ContinuedThe post LIST: Thor Svaboe’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT

Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets  second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

Auction Watch: Sylvester Stallone’s Very Own Panerai Luminor SJX Watches
Richard Mille are also Dec 2, 2020

Auction Watch: Sylvester Stallone’s Very Own Panerai Luminor

Instrumental in Panerai’s rise as the “it” brand of the 2000s were the action-hero celebrities who favoured its oversized dive watches. The singular most important personality in establishing the brand in popular culture was Sylvester Stallone, who wore this very Luminor 5218-201/A “pre-Vendome” in the 1996 film Daylight, where he played a firefighter leading survivors out of a collapsed tunnel. Mr Stallone with the Panerai on his right wrist in Daylight A product of the original Panerai company in Italy before the brand moved to Switzerland after Richemont acquired it, the watch has been consigned for sale at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction by Mr Stallone himself. It’s being offered exactly as it was worn on screen, including the sharkskin strap – along with paraphernalia relating to the film as well as a hand-written note stating he wore the watch during its production. Four other watches of Mr Stallone’s, all Richard Mille, are also in the sale, including the RM 32 he wore in The Expendables 3. The Stallone collection In the mid 1990s Mr Stallone also had an informal partnership with Panerai, reputedly receiving several watches from the brand, which then produced several runs of limited edition watches dubbed  “Sly Tech” after Mr Stallone’s nickname. Mr Stallone became an early adopter of Panerai not long after it starting making wristwatches once again in 1993 thanks to Monty Shadow, a photographer born in the former Yugoslavia who i...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost Nov 30, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust Nov 27, 2020

Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man

Too often in a TV drama, a character’s watch is just a random accessory lobbed in by the wardrobe department at the last minute. Yet when it’s done right, a watch can become infused with psychological depth and meaning. And when it’s done to absolute perfection it can deliver a tell-tale insight into a character’s … ContinuedThe post Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust in Gangs of London shows that the watch doesn’t always maketh the man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Champagne Labruyère And JM Sélèque: The Majesty Of Grower Champagnes Quill & Pad
Casio ns Nov 24, 2020

Champagne Labruyère And JM Sélèque: The Majesty Of Grower Champagnes

Champagne is not a wine that most people enjoy at home or by themselves as they might a good red or a top spirit. Champagne is for occasions and for sharing and enjoying with friends. If times have been tough for the large Champagne-based houses, they have been even worse for many of the small growers and their champagnes. Here Ken Gargett take a look at two up-and-coming growers for your consideration.

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” Time+Tide
Bulova makes Nov 24, 2020

Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit”

Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is … ContinuedThe post Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing Quill & Pad
Nov 10, 2020

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Very Interesting Finalists With (Relatively) Affordable Pricing

Watches entered into the Challenge category are offered for a retail price under 4,000 Swiss francs. This is perhaps the most popular category as it's for watches that more people can afford, and the competition is tough. Which explains why our panel of five has three different picks for the winner.

The Naked Watchmaker Deconstructs 71-Year-Old Vintage Vacheron Constantin World Time Pocket Watch (Video) Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin World Time Pocket Watch Nov 7, 2020

The Naked Watchmaker Deconstructs 71-Year-Old Vintage Vacheron Constantin World Time Pocket Watch (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV entertained a visit from Peter Speake, The Naked Watchmaker, as he took apart a Vacheron Constantin world time pocket watch from 1949 – a feat firmly categorized in the “don’t do this at home” rubric. This World Timer is 71 years old, displays the time in 41 reference cities, is housed in a yellow gold case, and is completely original with all of its original parts and even the dial.

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Nov 5, 2020

Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review

Rado’s Captain Cook collection is by far one of the brands most iconic lines, a watch, as they say, designed to stand the test of time. Back when Rado released the first Captain Cook model, the Swiss Brand wasn’t known or associated with dive watches. Many of the watch brands back in the day attempted to delve into the different categories of watchmaking to expand their horizons, and Rado was no different. Typically being a dress watchmaker, Rado designed and released their first dive watch, the Captain Cook timepiece, in 1962. Captain Cook Green dial reference R32105313 The name Captain Cook was of course given to honour the explorer Captain Cook. The original 1962 Captain Cook was a serious dive watch, with a case built to survive approximately 220m of watch depth. Back in 2017, Rado re-released the 1962 Captain Cook model with a 1:1 recreation of the original, all with updated movement and materials. The design of the 2017 watch was kept the same as the original, as they retained the 37mm case sizing, red numeral on date wheel, shape of hour indices and hands, down to the spinning anchor at 12’clock position. The watch community loved this re-edition of what is a classic dive watch upon its release. With the watch becoming popular, Rado decided to make multiple iterations of the Captain Cook, with many different versions with different coloured dials being released.  Earlier this year, Rado released a new variation of the Captain Cook, with the new timepiece now ...

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video Warning Oct 31, 2020

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise

Ever wondered what the inside of a Rolex Submariner looks like, then (sensibly) thought better of trying to find out? Well, wonder no more. The Watches TV has teamed up with The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake, to take a modern Rolex Submariner completely apart – diving right into the heart of this famous diver’s watch.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Review WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Oct 29, 2020

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Review

Oris has been stepping up the game lately with their recent Calibre 400 movement release, and now a watch to house this incredible movement. The Swiss brand’s current collection is made up of high-performance fit-for-purpose mechanical watches. It was a tough choice however, to see which of their current timepieces would be worthy and fit to house the new groundbreaking Calibre 400 movement. First model that was chosen to implement the new calibre 400 is the Oris Aquis Date.  Watch advice recently had an in-depth look at the Calibre 400 movement from Oris and how this is groundbreaking for not only the brand but for the watch industry as a whole. For the price that the Calibre 400 movement is offered for and the amount of value you get back, Oris has redefined what a timepiece should provide for the everyday collector.   Oris chose to use a model from the Aquis range for the Calibre 400 movement due to characteristics of the Aquis timepieces. The Aquis around the globe is recognised as being an iconic contemporary divers watch. The timepieces are robust, reliable and come equipped with a variety of functions—the perfect candidate for the Calibre 400, a movement that share the same characteristics.  Case: The new Aquis Date Calibre 400 comes in a multi-piece stainless steel 43.5mm case. The case has been designed using sharp lines and chamfered edges, creating an overall refined look. The case has a water resistance of 300m (30 Bar), making it safe for swimming and ...

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… Time+Tide
Seiko ambassador relives Oct 27, 2020

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs…

Editor’s note: If I had to list my most motivational interview of the year, it would be easy. It would be Paul de Gelder. Paul is a former navy clearance diver, turned TV show host and now Seiko ambassador. Paul is an Aussie based in L.A – and his claims to fame are more than … ContinuedThe post The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY Time+Tide
Patek Philippe online sales have not Oct 26, 2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 Oct 26, 2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH – Oct 19, 2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years

It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox DEPLOYANT Oct 17, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox

Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.

“They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Oct 13, 2020

“They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko

In this instalment of our discussion with the King of the Close-Up, Mr @horomariobro (you can find the first part right here), we take a deep dive into a brand that has a well-established reputation for getting the details right – Grand Seiko. Specifically, we take an extremely close look at his own Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post “They polish places nobody can see.” Why the Instagram king of macro videography loves Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review WatchAdvice
Patek Philippe Oct 13, 2020

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review

It seems that the world of horology has been taken over by two trends over the past decade or so, blue integrated sports watches, and green dive watches. Every brand has been engaged in a cold war era arms race to produce the best of these two fads. An arms race that has been all but won by two global superpowers, Patek Philippe with their Nautilus have staked claim to being the kings of all things integrated bracelet. Rolex, raining supreme with their famed but now discontinued, Green Submariner, a behemoth of the industry aptly named, the Hulk. The industries lesser powers have been fighting to keep up with the demand and surge in popularity of the aforementioned icons. With that surge, and such low supply, the masses have flocked to pre-owned markets, the grey market, for the chance to pay near double the RRP and have the privilege of owning the most famous green dive watch. Thankfully, in an attempt to share in the hysteria, brands have rushed to offer their own versions of pieces like the Submariner Hulk, offering consumers viable alternatives in which to spend their hard-earned money. The Longines HydroConquest green, is one such alternative, but is it a true Hulk buster? or just another puny watch in a bright green suit? Editors note: The model reviewed in this feature is reference L3.781.4.06.9 the 41mm variant which is supplied on the green rubber strap. Other models are available for configuration, including 43mm case sizes and stainless-steel bracelets. No opini...