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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2023

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator

The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...

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Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier may be known Jun 21, 2023

Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode

Nearly every luxury watchmaker is feeling the need to have a sporty collection or reference in their stable these days, much the same as some of the great sports car marques needing an SUV all of the sudden. It’s just practical. Just what makes a watch sport worthy is up for debate, but it generally comes with a bit of water resistance, the ability to absorb a shock or two, and a rubber or textile strap. Bright colors optional. In reality it means a watch that’s better suited to everyday wear, and goes with a broader selection of your wardrobe. The sporting element simply implies comfort and practicality. Parmigiani Fleurier may be known for their formal wear, but they’re no strangers to the sport watch, and this week, the Tonda line gets a completely revamped sport collection called the Tonda PF Sport.  The new Tonda PF Sport collection will be replacing the Tonda GT collection with the introduction of 4 references that span steel and rose gold within a time and date, and chronograph configuration. The new watches bring a tighter cohesion to the Tonda family overall, taking a cleaner approach to the theme. The biggest shift from the GT collection is the date migration away from the unique oversized 12 o’clock position, and into the more controversial 4:30 position on the chronograph, and the 6 o’clock position on the time and date model. The Tonda GT watches had plenty of quirks, from their date execution, to the month display of the calendar models labeled, qu...

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Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features Worn & Wound
Ming events Jun 21, 2023

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features

If there was an easy knock you could make against the previous iterations of the Singer Reimagined chronographs, it’s that they were too big. At 43mm in a big cushion case, they have a ton of wrist presence to be sure, and require a larger wrist to pull off effectively. But they’re mechanically ingenious, and, in my opinion, pretty great looking from a purely aesthetic perspective, so I was always willing to forgive them for their size. Now, with a pair of watches in the brand’s new Singer 1969 collection, they’ve gone a long way toward answering doubters who made the large size of their earlier watches a dealbreaker. They’ve also incorporated new functionality, refining the mechanical piece to make their watches even more intuitive.  The 1969 Chronograph is the heavy hitter of the pair of watches announced today. This watch features an updated Agengraphe caliber that’s smaller (to fit the new 40mm case) and also includes a time display. Elapsed time is still read from the centrally mounted hands, but the current time is now displayed in an aperture at 6:00 via a pair of rotating discs. The chronograph incorporates jumping minutes and hours for precision, and the caliber is capable of timing events of up to 60 hours, which is a feat only Singer can claim.  The more modest 1969 Timer is my personal favorite of the two new watches. This is effectively an update of Singer’s Flytrack watches, which incorporate a 60 second timer via the centrally mounted running...

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What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet ? If you are Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

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Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia Revolution
Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Jun 20, 2023

Revo Talks: Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia

Wei and Constant have a sit-down conversation on our newest limited edition, the Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia. Join us as we go into the stories of Laurent Ferrier, the man himself, and the amazing process that created this beautiful timepiece. Our Laurent Ferrier X Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor Amazonia is limited to just 15 […]

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Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New Jun 19, 2023

Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection

The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term.  Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...

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IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Hamilton recently so Jun 19, 2023

IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” edition of their ceramic cased chronograph has been an object of fascination for many since its release last year. While it lacks a certain practicality (it’s 44.5mm wide) and versatility (it’s, well, bright white) it’s undeniably striking, and would seem to be the perfect watch for a handful of very specific purposes, one of which is surely sipping on brightly colored cocktail, oceanside, in Miami. There’s nothing else quite like it on the market (besides the other colored, ceramic IWC chronographs), and it presents as an interesting contrast in design sensibilities to the “normal” IWC chronographs, the ones in steel, with an altogether more sober vibe. They’re the same, but also wildly different, and illustrate how IWC has one foot in contemporary sleekness and another in paying homage to their own history, visible on the same chronograph platform.  Last week, the Tahoe got a sequel of sorts with a new Big Pilot perpetual calendar using the same materials and design notes as the chronograph. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe had been seen on the wrist of IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton recently, so the official news of its release to the public isn’t a huge shock, but as an admirer of the Tahoe chronograph it’s fun to see its expansion to another product line, and makes us wonder if we could see a Tahoe edition of the simplest IWC pilot watches. A Mark XX Tahoe? Take my money.  That’s enough...

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Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT

Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve.  This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...

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Just got a great watch for Father’s Day? Time for straps! Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2023

Just got a great watch for Father’s Day? Time for straps!

So you just got that watch you always wanted for Father’s Day. The bracelet has been sized and you’re already maxing out your phones storage with wrist shots. But something is missing. Perfection seems to be just around the corner. And it comes in the form of a new strap. Add a strap and watch as it completely transforms. Toss some nylon on a diver. Trade in a stiff piece of leather for a supple piece of suede. Pair the perfect racing chronograph with a rally strap. The skies the limit with the straps we have in our shop. So you just got that watch you always wanted for Father’s Day. The bracelet has been sized and you’re already maxing out your phones storage with wrist shots. But something is missing. Perfection seems to be just around the corner. And it comes in the form of a new strap. Add a strap and watch as it completely transforms. Toss some nylon on a diver. Trade in a stiff piece of leather for a supple piece of suede. Pair the perfect racing chronograph with a rally strap. The skies the limit with the straps we have in our shop. The post Just got a great watch for Father’s Day? Time for straps! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Man files lawsuit against jeweller for not selling him promised $109K Patek after building up $220K purchase history Time+Tide
Patek Philippe collector Ali Rezaei has Jun 18, 2023

Man files lawsuit against jeweller for not selling him promised $109K Patek after building up $220K purchase history

Patek Philippe collector Ali Rezaei has filed a lawsuit against Bay Area jeweller Shreve & Co. Rezaei alleges he was promised an allocation of a US$109K Patek Phillipe 5980/1R-001 in exchange for “built-up purchase history” After accumulating US$220K in purchase history, Rezaei never received the “promised” allocation – prompting his filed lawsuit When this story … ContinuedThe post Man files lawsuit against jeweller for not selling him promised $109K Patek after building up $220K purchase history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference - Reprise Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Jun 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference - Reprise

Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.

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Highlights from Christie’s Art of F.P. Journe Auction: 3 Watches Sold for Over a Million Dollars! Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Auction 3 Watches Sold Jun 17, 2023

Highlights from Christie’s Art of F.P. Journe Auction: 3 Watches Sold for Over a Million Dollars!

F.P. Journe watches have attracted the attention of the collector community in recent years. Some amazing results have been achieved at auction, including the spectacular FFC Blue Only Watch 2021, which sold at Christie’s for a staggering CHF 4,500,000. Seven-figure sums at auction are nothing unusual for F.P. Journe, but the consistently high results are a sure sign that the brand has taken the lead among independents in the secondary watch market.

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Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale Worn & Wound
Jun 16, 2023

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale

The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...

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eBay Finds: Vintage Divers and Mystery Dials Worn & Wound
Rolex Thunderbird Jun 15, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Divers and Mystery Dials

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Oris Diver To start this week we have a cool and funky vintage Oris diver. The oval/cushion style chrome plated case is in great shape, with nice sharp edges and factory brushed finish intact. Seller doesn’t state the size but it looks to be on the larger size judging by the placement of the date window. The black dial is super clean, with nicely aged lume hour markers. It has an aluminum elapsed time divers bezel that is also in great shape. The crown is original and is signed with the Oris name. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Waltham Ultra-Thin Next up is a stylin’ vintage Waltham in yellow gold fill, complete with box and extras. The gold fill case looks nice and sharp, and has a nifty engine turned bezel similar to the classic Rolex Thunderbird and thin simple lugs. The simple crosshair gold dial has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, along with a sub-seconds dial just above the 6. No date and gold dauphine hands complete the look. Nice, thin, classy dress watch. Best of all it comes in the original box with some little tags and a hangtag. Again, no movement picture but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Vintage Bu...

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Opinion: Gifting Metal Worn & Wound
Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

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[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Jun 14, 2023

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions.   First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...

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Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Pays Tribute Jun 12, 2023

Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer

You can put this one in the category of: We Didn’t See it Coming. Seiko has just launched a new Prospex branded version of a watch that can be described as a true cult hit of the early aughts, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. If you’re scratching your head trying to remember the Sportura and coming up empty, perhaps you know it as “the Jay Leno,” as the former Tonight Show host is fond of wearing one while tooling around in steam powered fire trucks from the 1910s, or whatever. The Sportura’s fans, though, are legion. Our co-founder Zach Weiss is a Sportura owner, and I don’t think he even drives a Duesenberg.  The new watches are being framed as a new chapter in the ongoing story of Seiko as a timer of competitive sporting events, which dates back to the 1960s. The conceit of the Sportura was a deconstructed chronograph display that shows elapsed time in three separate dial displays, each covered with a small custom crystal, which must have been terribly expensive and difficult to fabricate. The new watches (there are four in total) are simpler, with a layout that consists of a main dial for the time at 6:00, with what amounts to a trio of subdials arcing over it that display elapsed time. On the new watches, everything is part of one dial, so we lose some of that weird disconnected feeling, but much of the aesthetic sensibility remains.  Functionally, they’re a bit different from the originals, as you’d expect given advancements in movement tech. While Kinet...

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We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… Time+Tide
Jun 12, 2023

We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter…

Confucius once said, “Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life”. I think I can safely speak for all of us here when I say this is the best part of being a member of the T+T team. We all love watches, watch culture, and presenting … ContinuedThe post We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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