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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Who are #tide and what do they do? Time+Tide
Jun 8, 2023

Who are #tide and what do they do?

If you’ve been paying attention to watchmaking trends in the last few years, then you’ll be incredibly aware of the push towards sustainability throughout the entire industry. Whether it’s a net-zero carbon production, vegan leather straps or the slightly controversial BioCeramic MoonSwatch, renewable or recycled materials are popping up in more and more releases. One … ContinuedThe post Who are #tide and what do they do? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067 SJX Watches
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 Jun 6, 2023

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution Worn & Wound
Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution Jun 6, 2023

Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution

Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days.  The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...

Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References Worn & Wound
Seiko Reveals New Trimmer King Jun 5, 2023

Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References

Seiko is continuing to refine their modern King Seiko collection with a series of iterations seen in a pair of new references: the SJE089, and the SJE091. The evolution may not be visible at a glance, but a closer look reveals a new date-equipped movement at use, a slimmer case, and a slightly altered profile, all done in the service of ergonomics. The result is a new King Seiko that measures just 10.7mm in thickness, shaving a few tenths off the first releases we saw in 2022, while adding a date complication at the same time. Overall the design is still heavily referential to the original 1965 King Seiko KSK, which has a special place in Seiko history that you can read more about in our introduction of the 2020 LE that set the template for the modern references we enjoy today.  The new King Seiko references bring a date back to the dial at 3 o’clock thanks to the caliber 6L35 inside, which is making its first appearance in the main King Seiko collection. This is the most notable difference from the initial SPB King Seiko references launched last year, which used the 6R31 movement. The SJE references land a bit closer to the original as a result, and remain relatively demure with the same silver and black dial options. The case is what really deserves a closer inspection here. It remains steel and measures 38.6mm in diameter, however features a new trimmer lug profile that integrates a bit more seamlessly to the case via the large, flat surfaces that define its shape. T...

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Since Jun 4, 2023

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jun 4, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 52: Happy Birthday to Us! Special Q&A; Episode

We did it! We made it to episode 52. That’s an episode a week, for 52 weeks, aka, a whole dang year. And we did it without taking a week off! Well, needless to say, we enjoy making A Week in Watches, and we’ve been thrilled with the tremendous response from you, our excellent readers/watches/listeners. So, for this week, we wanted to do something special. Instead of one host, we’ve got three: Blake Buettner, Zach Weiss, and Zach Kazan, all in the studio. We thought this would be a good time to get a Q and A segment going again, so we took several questions from the Worn & Wound+ Slack Community (more on that below), answered them in round-table style, and had a great time doing it. We’d love to include audience questions more often going forward, so please do leave your questions in the comments over on YouTube, send them by email to info@wornandwound.com, or over on the W&W;+ Slack. If you didn’t guess, this week’s episode was brought to you by Worn & Wound+ Slack Community our new, free Slack channel for Worn & Wound fans. With tons of conversations across various channels, Worn & Wound+ is a fun environment to talk about watches with other like-minded enthusiasts as well as the Worn & Wound team. To join, all you have to do is sign up for the Worn & Wound newsletter, and an invite will come your way, or follow this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 52: Happy Birthday to Us! Special Q&A; Episode appeared first on Worn & Wound.

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? Time+Tide
Universal Genève Jun 4, 2023

WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived?

Universal Genève’s story is one of the highest of highs and lowest of lows. The brand experienced fruitful periods for much of its lifetime, only to become a victim of several unsuccessful post-quartz crisis revivals. Multiple star athletes, musical icons and toppled dictators all sported Universal Genève watches in some capacity, a few becoming heroes … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Universal Genève was revived? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Succession Episode Power Ranking, Packing for a Long Weekend with Topo Designs CEO Mark Hansen, & Racing With Giants Documentary Celebrates 100th Anniversary of Le Mans Worn & Wound
Jun 3, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Succession Episode Power Ranking, Packing for a Long Weekend with Topo Designs CEO Mark Hansen, & Racing With Giants Documentary Celebrates 100th Anniversary of Le Mans

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: The Ringer The Ringer Gives Their Power Rankings For Each Succession Episode Via The Ringer / HBO With the series finale in the books and a new CEO at the head of the table, the curtain has finally fallen on HBO’s hit dark-comedy drama, Succession. Buoyed by a number of dynamic acting talents, witty screen play, and an ever-twisting plot that always left us wanting more, the bittersweet ending has us all wondering, what will fill the void on Sunday’s at 9:00PM? Well, you could always re-watch the whole thing, or relive the entire series through this expansive power rankings list provided by the folks over at The Ringer. They’ve taken all 39 episodes, broken them down and even highlighted the one-liners we might’ve missed because let’s face it, that’s one of the best parts of the show and has even spawned an entertaining Instagram account in @nocontextsuccession. Just one pass through the ranking will give you an idea of just how many drastic plot changes and pivotal scenes there actually were, as well as all the laugh-out-loud moments, that you actuall...

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates Worn & Wound
H. Moser s New Streamliner Flyback Jun 2, 2023

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates

As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me.  For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show Time+Tide
Frederique Constant ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Jun 2, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show

Just ahead of the weekend, two brands have announced some exciting news! Citizen to open multi-brand flagship in New York City Some people hear the Citizen name, and think solely of the brand. But Citizen, or the Citizen Watch Group, is actually a multi-brand conglomerate that not only includes Citizen, but also Alpina, Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Citizen to open new NYC flagship, JLC announces Golden Ratio Music Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ Worn & Wound
Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary Jun 1, 2023

Isotope Celebrates their Seventh Anniversary with a New Logo and a Limited Edition Collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/

Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it.  The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone.  The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic Time+Tide
Hublot s colourful Spirit Jun 1, 2023

VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic

Hublot’s bold designs aren’t exactly known for their versatility, but I think a lot of people could be surprised by just how much their style is actually capable of achieving. The Spirit of Big Bang isn’t just a catchy title for Hublot’s tonneau-shaped case design, but rather an example of how the industrial feel and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 Just May 30, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54

Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Black Bay 54 is the latest step in the evolution of Tudor’s mainstay line of dive watches. Inspired by the brand’s first dive watch of 1954, the Black Bay 54 is clearly vintage-inspired. But more notably, it is the most compact dive watch in the Tudor catalogue at just 37 mm in diameter, making it one of the brand’s most wearable offerings. Though scaled down in terms of size, the Black Bay 54 still possesses all of the characteristics that define Tudor watches, namely a high-spec in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve no less) and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts As I mentioned in the article introducing the watch, the BB54 is perfect for anyone wanting a wearable dive watch that pairs vintage style with corresponding vintage proportions. The minimalist approach is evident not just in the size, but also details like the bezel insert, which has been simplified to feature just five-minute markers.  Despite the familiar vintage aesthetics and clean line that define the Black Bay, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is compelling. For one, it catches the eye for being noticeably smaller on the wrist than its Black Bay siblings. While it is certainly compact, maybe even small by contemporary standards, the BB54 doesn’t look diminutive on the wrist. Perhaps because of the stark, functional design and “gilt” dial, the BB54 has more presence than its 37 mm would imply. I like the watch very much as it is, but if there w...

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition Worn & Wound
May 30, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition

This edition of Micro-Brand Digest will be focusing on some of the brands that exhibit at our Windup Watch Fair. Every year upon walking into the fair during setup, the editorial team often gets their first look at many of the exhibiting brands, as we are a separate entity to the event and commerce components of Worn & Wound, so each fair we discover some of the brands right alongside you.  In addition to discovering these new brands, we get the added benefit of meeting the people behind them, which adds a depth to the brand that otherwise may not be immediately apparent. This is the beauty of a show like Windup, connecting with the passionate people making these watches, and hearing their stories first hand. So in this edition of Micro-Brand Digest, we’re putting a spotlight on some of these people and the watches they’re creating. Vieren Vieren is a fashion watch brand, but maybe not in the way you’d expect. The watches are indeed chic, and present a fashion forward design language that embraces clean lines, stark whites and blacks, and textures you’d often see on the runway. That’s because the creative head of the brand, Sunny Fong, is a fashion designer for the womenswear label, VAWK, and even won Project Runway Canada. Sonny brings this sensibility to Vieren watches, eschewing typical watch industry trends in the process. Vieren’s founder, Jess Chow, brings a passionate energy to the brand, and is one of our favorite people to see at Windup. Jess has brou...