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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2023

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents

As watch collectors get more and more access to information through either the internet or brand transparency, the glowing sheen that once accompanied the term “in-house” has started to lose its shine. There are plenty of loopholes a company can go through to earn the in-house title, and because it’s not a protected term like … ContinuedThe post Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe booths These brands Apr 12, 2023

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023

When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event.  The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking at its Very Best Quill & Pad
MB&F; Apr 12, 2023

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking at its Very Best

Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Apr 11, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review WatchAdvice
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands Apr 11, 2023

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review

Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet Worn & Wound
Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Apr 10, 2023

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet

Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial.  The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...

A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Apr 9, 2023

A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox

TAG Heuer introduced a facelifted Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with new box-dome crystal Colours are inspired by the piece’s racing heritage and fit into the new Chronograph 42mm line-up as well New and reduced 42mm size for a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon As part of the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera model, TAG Heuer is launching … ContinuedThe post A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2023

Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics)

Last year during the fair, Andrew and I were able to find the time to sit down and share our top five picks on camera in a full feature-length video. Unfortunately, this year at Watches & Wonders, our schedule was so jam-packed we were unable to find a spare half hour to film a sequel. … ContinuedThe post Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback Time+Tide
Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic Apr 8, 2023

Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback

Zenith’s new Pilot collection sees a complete redesign of the case aesthetic. Lineup includes a 40mm time and date version, and a big date flyback chrono. The new series is available in both steel and microblasted matte black ceramic, a first for the Pilot line. Zenith is flying into Watches & Wonders with a complete … ContinuedThe post Flying high: Zenith redesigns their Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why watch puns tick me off Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs Time+Tide
Casio n Apr 8, 2023

Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs

During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Apr 8, 2023

10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner

If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love Time+Tide
Hublot big love Today we Apr 7, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love

Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....