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Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar Bonniksen Apr 7, 2026

Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel

Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu Worn & Wound
Apr 6, 2026

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu

Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in).  For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Arty Automata Apr 6, 2026

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art

The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes. Initial thoughts The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger. Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price. The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in ...

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House

Berlin-based Felipe Pikullik presents his second in-house caliber inside the Sternenhimmel FPA1. The independent’s attempt at a refined workhorse-like movement comes in the form of the newly-developed caliber FPA1, designed to power a range of future creations.  Initial thoughts Mr Pikullik’s emergence into the crowded independent watchmaking scene was based on heavily skeletonised off-the-shelf movements. As he gained a reputation for deft finishing and began to consolidate his workshop, he slowly but surely transitioned toward in-house engineering. Starting with his own complication modules, the German watchmaker’s first truly in-house effort came with last year’s Moonphase II collection, which saw the launch of the calibre FPMP2.  The openworked construction featured a moon phase and 24-hour indicator but, while undoubtedly well-crafted, it arguably lacked a cohesive design language. Its distinctive architecture also made it unsuitable as the foundation for a wider range of pieces. In contrast, the updated Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) features what the independent watchmaker describes as a cornerstone movement for future models. The FPA1 is consequently far more grounded and classical in construction, yet manages to avoid the trap of looking too much like any other artisanal time-only calibre. The ornate backside of the FPA1 caliber. This specific iteration of the Sternenhimmel design is decidedly more modern and technically-oriented, with a flo...

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer Teddy Baldassarre
Squale Mar 25, 2026

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer

[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"]  Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations.  If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now.  [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"]  Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...

Oracle Time Magazine To Host Its Sophomore Hands On Horology Event This June In London Fratello
Mar 24, 2026

Oracle Time Magazine To Host Its Sophomore Hands On Horology Event This June In London

Oracle Time has announced its second watch event for the enthusiast community. Hands On Horology will take place on the 13th of June, 2026, at Protein Studios, Shoreditch, London, UK. Showcasing over 45 brands, from independents to globally recognized watchmakers, the event will have something for everyone. There will also be ample opportunities to place […] Visit Oracle Time Magazine To Host Its Sophomore Hands On Horology Event This June In London to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases SJX Watches
Christopher Ward which just launched Mar 24, 2026

SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases

Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house ‘flyer’ GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist? Fratello
Mar 17, 2026

Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we address a listener’s question about price transparency in the vintage market. Does it exist, and if not, how should a new collector navigate these murky waters? Listen in as we take a long look at this interesting topic. This podcast player is blocked because […] Visit Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist? to read the full article.

Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window Fratello
Serica Introduces Mar 12, 2026

Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window

The guys at Serica take their vintage-inspired designs very seriously. The brand’s watches are all about the perfect proportions, high legibility, and great wearability. Up until now, a date window wasn’t part of that equation. However, as representatives of many brands tell us, some people won’t buy a watch unless it has a date window. […] Visit Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window to read the full article.

Review: Atelier Wen Nails Another Gorgeous Dial with the New Millésime 2025 Perception Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Feb 25, 2026

Review: Atelier Wen Nails Another Gorgeous Dial with the New Millésime 2025 Perception Limited Edition

I’ll admit, I’m late to the party. I didn’t discover Atelier Wen until last year when a friend told me I should check out the brand and connected me with its founder, Robin Tallendier. The pair knew how to tug at my heartstrings straight away: enamel dials. For those of you who know a little bit about me, you are well aware that métiers d’art crafts are my passion, but I have a particular affinity for enamel dials. Perhaps it is more than an affinity and closer to an obsession. I have taken my love of enamel from admirer to aspiring artisan, completing three enameling apprenticeships in Switzerland to learn the artform myself.  After going back and forth with Robin for a few months and musing over the watches from a distance, I finally had the chance to experience them in the metal for the first time at Dubai Watch Week last November. I was immediately struck by the technique of the Ancestra and Inflection dials with a hammered base that added further depth and texture to the enamel itself. While the beauty of enamel (especially when paired with techniques like guilloche) is its interplay with light, something about the organic nature of the hand hammering brought an even deeper sense of life and movement to these dials.  Since then, Atelier Wen has branched out, expanding its expertise in stunning dials beyond guilloche, hand hammering, enamel, and (in the past) porcelain to its latest model showcasing natural stone: the limited edition Millésime 2025 Percepti...

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 17, 2026

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury

As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now.  [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...

Opinion: I Stopped Buying Watches – The Grass Isn’t Greener Worn & Wound
Feb 11, 2026

Opinion: I Stopped Buying Watches – The Grass Isn’t Greener

There is nothing more effective than the swap of a digit on the calendar to send the whole world into self-reflection mode. As we collectively adjust to a six that replaced a five, many of us have the best intention of making changes that stick around long enough to see that six turn into a seven. Personally, I find there is no better exercise to guide new resolutions than to take stock of the old ones. Non-watch related, dry January turned into dry 2025, and I’m down two links (normal people measure progress in pounds, but bracelet size has become my preferred watch nerd metric). I resumed progress on that half-finished MBA that’s been hanging over my head, and I spent more time playing board games with my kids than the year before. Watch-specific, after five years of constant buying and selling, I decided to go an entire year without purchasing any new watches. Even though it was a lofty goal and one that collectors seeking change often fantasize about without following through, I actually managed to spend 2025 without a substantial #NWA  (new watch announcement) post on Instagram. In full transparency, I did pick up a couple of cheap vintage quartz pieces. But us watch enthusiasts have clever ways of rationalizing why certain purchases don’t count (I think we can all agree G-SHOCKs fall into this bucket), and I’m pretending like those pickups don’t exist. After all, neither were “new” and one has already found a new home.  During this prolonged period of...

IWC Introduces George Russell’s First Limited-Edition Pilot’s Watches Fratello
IWC Introduces George Russell’s First Feb 6, 2026

IWC Introduces George Russell’s First Limited-Edition Pilot’s Watches

George Russell took fourth in last year’s Formula One championship in his Mercedes-AMG Petronas race monster. He did so by reaching the podium nine times, including two wins in both Canada and Singapore. No, he didn’t become the world champion, but bookmakers have high hopes for him in 2026. That’s probably why IWC honors the […] Visit IWC Introduces George Russell’s First Limited-Edition Pilot’s Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Jan 20, 2026

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold

At the 2026 LVMH Watch Week in Milano, Zenith presents its latest creations alongside fellow LVMH brands, with a spotlight on the Defy collection. Among the highlights is the new Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic & Gold, a striking elaboration of one of Zenith’s most distinctive contemporary models. The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s modern take […]

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1 Fratello
Daniel Roth Jan 19, 2026

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1

Daniel Roth introduces its latest offering during the LVMH Watch Week in Milan! It’s the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Though based on the previously introduced Extra Plat watches with caliber DR002, this one has a special skeletonized movement (DR002SR). Honoring Daniel Roth’s heritage It’s no secret that I admire the new Daniel Roth watches […] Visit Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1 to read the full article.