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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 13, 2023

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...

Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why… Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier here’s why… Editor’s note Jan 13, 2023

Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why…

Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jan 13, 2023

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear Worn & Wound
Bulova Ambassador Here’s Jan 12, 2023

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Ambassador Here’s a sweet vintage Bulova Ambassador, complete box and original strap. The steel case is 35mm wide and in great shape, with nice slim lugs and clear deeply engraved ‘Ballerina’ caseback logo. Gorgeous silver dial with simple steel stick markers and hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original acrylic crystal looks perfect and has the correct internal date magnifier window. This is front-loading case so no surprise that there is no photo of the movement. This beauty comes with the original Bulova strap, and maybe even the original Bulova buckle, although there is no photo of it and the seller doesn’t say. Boxes are included which is nice, although the seller states the inner box is damaged. View auction here. Eterna-Matic Centenaire This vintage Eterna-Matic Centenaire is one you don’t see too often, which is a shame as it’s a great looking watch. That said, here’s your chance at one! The 35mm steel case is simple with slim lugs like the Bulova above, with the biggest difference being the crown is neatly recessed into the case giving is a streamlined look. The dial is white with killer applied steel faceted arrow markers and the class...

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jan 12, 2023

Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances

Omega dominated the 2023 Golden Globes red carpet Their range of styles and dial colours make their watches very easy to style Rolex, Cartier, TAG Heuer, and more were also spotted – but not nearly as many as Omega  While high-brow enthusiasts may find themselves above the superficiality of watchspotting, it is hard to ignore … ContinuedThe post Omega dominate 2023 Golden Globes’ red carpet. Rolex, Cartier, TAG, Vacheron, Bulgari also make appearances appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases Time+Tide
TAG Heuer unleashes Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases

TAG Heuer gives us another helping of the Monza, now in a carbon case and bold colours. New Sport, Golf and Titanium Connected watches mark the brand’s continued evolution of their smart watch collection. The Aquaracer Solargraph line continues, now with a Grade 2 Titanium bead-blasted case. The Carrera celebrates its 60th with a 600-piece, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer LVMH Jan 11, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection Time+Tide
Bulgari dazzles Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection

The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models Time+Tide
Zenith expands their starry Defy Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the recently discontinued Defy Classic Skeleton. The star-motif of the skeleton dial is now four-pointed instead of five-pointed.  New Skyline Skeleton has no date and moves 1/10th of a second counter from 9′ to more symmetrical 6′ position. New Skyline 36mm does not have a 1/10th of a second counter, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

Vermont state trooper allegedly stole a Rolex watch from evidence room Time+Tide
Rolex watch from evidence room Jan 10, 2023

Vermont state trooper allegedly stole a Rolex watch from evidence room

Trying to get a new Rolex watch can be frustrating, but is it frustrating enough to steal one? Jokes aside, watch theft in any form is, of course, immoral, and you would think a supposed man of the law would know better. Sure, police corruption is a very real and unfortunate reality. But it was … ContinuedThe post Vermont state trooper allegedly stole a Rolex watch from evidence room appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy Revolution
Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Jan 9, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy

Grail Watch is proud to unveil the sophomore release of Chapter 1: Dream Collaborations between Bell & Ross, the brand that broke the mold in the ’90s and 2000s with their aviation-inspired designs, and our artist-in-residence and watch design extraordinaire, Alain Silberstein. Grail Watch 4 is a trilogy of watches rendered in black ceramic and […]