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Review: the new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm
Review of the Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm Tuxedo Dial, Winner of the 2023 Challenge Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
Results for Watches and Wonders Geneva
34,661 articles · 4,176 videos found · page 1294 of 1295
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Worn & Wound
Introducing the Ming 57.04 Phoenix
At its core, good branding comes down to balancing two often contradictory things at once: to maintain brand recognition, while not becoming stale. For a brand like MING, which has built something of a reputation for its roster of eye-catching designs, this is an especially fine line. The Malaysian watchmakers have continued to up their own ante, so to speak, meaning that to build a better watch, they have often had to compete against themselves in both aesthetics and technical precision. This is, perhaps, why they have looked back at the 57.04 Iris, but this time with a slightly softer eye. Instead of the vibrant purple-blue dial, MING has released the 57.04 Phoenix, with a decidedly more monochromatic dial in grey. At first glance, this may seem like a safer play for the brand; but, I can assure you, it’s anything but. Using the same multiphasic coating that was seen on the Iris, the Phoenix uses radial cutouts on the metal baseplate, curved sculpting, and negative relief. The finishing touch is the redesigned subdial, which has been treated with Super-LumiNova X1 and MING Polar White lume for added visual texture. The end result is a dial that leans more on light and shadows than colors to build a watch that is dynamic while highlighting all the technical precision we’ve come to expect from Ming. Like the Iris, the Phoenix is set up as a destro (left-handed) monopusher chronograph, powered by a uniquely configured Sellita for MING Cal. SW562.M1 movement, promising r...
Hodinkee
Business News: Switzerland's COSC Unveils 'Excellence Chronometer' Level Of Certification
The launch of a new standard that ensures accuracy within 6 seconds per day, along with new considerations for anti-magnetism and power reserve.
SJX Watches
Monochrome Monopusher: The Montre de Souscription 5 by Angelus
On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...
Deployant
New: Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini NOT FOR YOU
The king of collabs Manuel Emch strikes again! This time at Art Genève with artist Monica Bonvicini. Here is the watch to be known as NOT FOR YOU.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon
To celebrate founder Jacob Arabo’s 60th birthday, Jacob & Co. has upped the ante for the tourbillon with the God of Time that’s styled on the Greek myth of time, but more importantly features the world’s fastest turning tourbillon that completes one revolution every four seconds – making it 15 times quicker than a conventional one-minute tourbillon. Initial thoughts The God of Time watch is a true showpiece of modern, extravagant high horology, blending both striking visual decoration and engineering prowess. The theme of time and its associated deity is built around the record setting tourbillon, the fastest of its kind. While we’re familiar with the perpetual quest for the thinnest watch, apparently the race towards the fastest tourbillon is also a thing. Much like most Jacob & Co. watches, the God of Time is loud and a large 44.5 mm in diameter. The leitmotif of Greek mythology is present in the thick case as well, which is modelled on an Ionic pillar. The size is a consequence of the movement, which is enormous – inside are four mainsprings – due to the energy requirements of the tourbillon. The hand-crafted figure of Chronos is remarkably detailed - truly in the spirit of ancient Greek statues. The dial is interesting, as the eye is drawn to both the Chronos figure and the unusually fast tourbillon, but falls short in legibility, though that’s clearly not the point here. The God of Time is one of those watches where time-telling is less important tha...
Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dials to their Permanent Collection
Baltic’s Prismic line always felt like it existed to capitalize on the stone dial trend. When the watch debuted in early 2024, the French brand’s take on the classic “cocktail watch” seemed like it was pulled from a confluence of all the forces pushing against the vintage inspired sports watch boom that preceded it. The Prismic is a small, aesthetics first, design oriented piece, about as anti tool watch as they come. Those first Prismic releases did not have stone dials, but a later set of limited editions did, and that’s when this watch really clicked into place for many of us. Now, with those LEs long gone, Baltic has introduced a new line of stone dial Prismics that will be part of the permanent collection. The new Prismic Stone collection arrives to celebrate the opening of Baltic’s first boutique, just as the previous LEs were released to celebrate the opening of showrooms in New York, London, and Paris. The four dial options make use of stones that are not common in watchmaking: Pietersite, Pink Albite, Bloodstone, and Dumortierite. Like all stone dials, each individual piece will be unique. The standout, in my opinion, is the Pietersite dial. This is a truly dynamic stone, and looks like something that could have been ejected from an active volcano just minutes ago. Bloodstone has a dark green hue with inclusions of brown and red, and could be seen as an alternative to the more commonly used malachite. Similarly, Dumortierite has a dark blue tone that...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Clemence Photic MKII
The young British brand refines its easy-wearing diver with a suite of upgrades, including hardened steel, anti-magnetism, and more.
Monochrome
Interview – A Deep Dive into Fam Al Hut, the New Indie Sensation from China
Fam Al Hut has quickly become one of the most talked-about independent watchmakers in the world, a rise underscored by their Möbius timepiece winning the prestigious Audacity Prize at the 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), otherwise known as the “Oscars of Watchmaking.” An accomplishment for any new entrant, Fam Al Hut’s rapid rise […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT
Steel, 41mm, anti-shock, and plenty of lume.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal
In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cornell Watch Co. Adds More American Manufacturing With The 'Lozier'
Not fully made in America, but Cornell has decided to up the ante with more American construction and vintage proportions.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Titanium Breva Segreto Di Lario Evokes Late-Night Lakeside Vistas
After a hiatus of about a decade, independent watchmaker Breva Genève made a return to centre stage earlier this year. While its first stint in the industry is known for fascinatingly clever meteorological complications, the brand now heads into a different, more elegant direction. The Segreto di Lario, the Secret of Lake Como, wouldn’t look […]
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 7 -their first officially certified chronometer
Ba111od, ever the disruptor has released their Chapter 7, now with their first chronometer-certified by Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
Monochrome
Interview – Van Cleef & Arpels’ Stéphanie Rault Explains the Brand’s Approach to Watchmaking
Each year, during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (or in short, the GPHG), one brand always stands out because it wins so many awards: Van Cleef & Arpels. It might not have been the name you expected; however, if you look at the sheer number of awards it has won over the years, it […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium
Whenever I read the word “icefall,” my mind wanders to climbing Mount Everest. To reach the top of the world on the Nepal side of the mountain, you must pass the Khumbu Icefall early on to reach Camp 1. It’s a notoriously dangerous start to your journey to the summit. This is part of the […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein
Louis Erard returns to its flagship model, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon x Alain Silberstein, now in black. The tourbillon builds on the previous collaborations with the French designer but ups the ante on price and complexity. Louis Erard first tapped Alain Silberstein, known for his instantly recognisable Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, in 2019 for a successful collaboration that led to a second collection in 2021. This new 78-piece limited edition is the first time Le Régulateur Tourbillon is presented in Silberstein’s typical Bauhaus colours. The model initially debuted last year as part of a three-piece set in khaki green, followed by a 10-piece limited edition made for UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Initial thoughts Louis Erard has created an interesting niche for itself in the world of independent watchmaking with its ongoing string of well-priced collaborations with established independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter. And while the brand is arguably at its best when it challenges conventional expectations of watch design, such as its collaborations with designers from outside the industry like Oliver Mosset and atelier oï, the designs of Alain Silberstein have proven timeless in their own quirky way. Le Régulateur Tourbillon features a 40 mm titanium case that is also surprisingly slim at just 11.8 mm. That said, it’s likely to wear larger due to the hinged strap loops that extend beyond the case. With a black nylon strap and...
Hodinkee
The Sports Section: The Secret Tudor 'Hockey' Black Bay Chrono You've Never Seen (Until Now)
A commemorative watch for hometown Genève-Servette in a real underdog story.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction
After delving into the notable complications in Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction on October 7, we shift our focus to the timepieces exhibiting a distinct artisanal touch, spanning the encyclopaedia of decorative techniques from cloisonné enamelling to wood marquetry. Several are exquisite examples of enamel crafted by the renowned artisans Anita Porchet and her eponymous workshop, along with a pocket watch with a miniature enamel made by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe. Another highlight is the commemorative Vacheron Constantin Mercator created to mark the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 that was the work of a Belgium husband-and-wife enamel workshop. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2209: Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Hong Kong Handover 1997” The transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to the People’s Republic of China was a significant historical event that brought an end to 156 years of colonial rule in the territory and marked the conclusion of the British Empire. To mark the handover, Vacheron Constantin created a special iteration of the Mercator. One of the brand’s best known models at the time, the Mercator set itself apart with a unique double retrograde display for the hours and minutes, with the top-of-the-line models having cloisonné enamel dials. While the initial Mercator editions portrayed entire continents or regi...
Quill & Pad
Chopard Full Strike Minute Repeater in Blue Sapphire
The Chopard Full Strike won the “Aiguille d’Or” award at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Chopard now launches this limited edition in blue sapphire.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds
TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm
Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline. The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...
Time+Tide
In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex
“Am I supposed to hate Jackie Rohr, because I f*cking love him!” That post on Reddit sums up the general feeling for everyone’s favourite anti-hero in City on a Hill. If you haven’t watched it yet, don’t miss out. Set in the 1990s, this gritty drama hits like The Wire with a Boston accent, unfolding … ContinuedThe post In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable
During my time at Time+Tide, the flow of curious timekeepers coming across my desk has been constant, yet, the CIGA Design Blue Planet stands out as one of the more notable ones. As the first Chinese brand to ever win an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, claiming the Challenge Watch Prize in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Take A Break From Your Smartwatch With The Timex X Adsum MK1
Anti-smartwatch philosophy from a Brooklyn-based collaboration.
Deployant
New: Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent A223 Steel
Chopard extends their Alpine Eagle lineup with not only the first flying tourbillon, but also the first in the line with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore
An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...
SJX Watches
Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver
Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...
Deployant
Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat
Breitling revived the classic 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 mm watch that’s available in two guises: the B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a chronograph combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was once a signature complication for Breitling. Initial thoughts At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Super Chronomat bucks the trend. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Chronomat “is a watch you’ll get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Super Chronomat definitely makes a statement. With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and oversized pushers, the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity in design that is reminiscent of Breitling in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive sizing, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Super Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that’s an option on the Super Chronomat B01. The black dial Super Chronomat B01 44, with a UTC module in the bracelet Then there’s the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in...