Deployant
Review: Tulloch T-01 First Edition
Detailed, hands-on review with Live Photo's of the Tulloch T-01 First Edition Regulator - interesting collab project with Voutilainen and Giroud.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Revolution
Rado x Revolution Captain Cook, 2nd Outing
In its second collaboration with Revolution, Rado presents the cool grey Captain Cook in a larger 42mm case.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel
Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.
Revolution
Watch I Love: Rolex Daytona 116519 ‘Tahitian’ Dial
In the ‘Watch I Love’ series, Revolution editors take turns to reveal their favourite watch. Here, Ross Povey presents the Daytona 116519 ‘Tahitian’ Dial.
Revolution
A Blue Quartet: Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary Kicks Off
Grand Seiko kicks off yearlong 60th anniversary celebrations with a quartet of limited edition timepieces dressed in the brand’s signature blue.
SJX Watches
Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown
Hong Kong’s political unrest has resulted in the first fall in annual profits at the Swatch Group since 2018. The world’s biggest watchmaking group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, just announced its 2019 results, showing declines in both sales and profits. Net profit fell 13.7%, while sales declined 1.8% at constant exchange rates, or 2.7% at current rates, to 8.24 billion francs. The drops in profit and sales were primarily due to a drastic contraction of its business in Hong Kong – a city with a population of just 7.4 million – where Swatch Group owns over 90 retail stores, largely catering to shoppers from the China. Sales in Hong Kong for the second half of 2019 fell by 200 million francs. While Hong Kong was the key driver of the decline, it was not the only one. The luxury watch business in general is suffering from anaemic growth, which is also evidenced by the watch division results at diversified luxury groups like LVMH and Kering. On a more positive note, Swatch Group has managed to fulfil its stated aims of reducing operating expenditure and thinning inventory. Operating expenses dipped about 6%, while operating cash flow rose 30% in 2019. And after several consecutive years of growth, the group’s inventories declined by 1% in 2019, to a still-substantial 6.85 billion francs at cost. It’ll be a slow 2020… With Swatch Group predicting the situation in Hong Kong will continue to be “challenging” in 2020, it is in a weaker positio...
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko celebrates its 60th anniversary with four special limited editions. Updated with global prices.
Grand Seiko releases 4 new models for the 60th Anniversary of the Grand Seiko- 1 Hi-Beat Automatic, 1 Ladies Automatic, 2 men's Quartz with blue dials.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited
World women’s number one tennis player Ash Barty has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot polished ceramic watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win – ahead of her career-defining Grand Slam … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise
Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.
SJX Watches
Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy
Swiss jeweller De Grisogono, which in its prime was one of the most extravagant brands on the planet, has just filed for bankruptcy in Geneva, as a result of Luanda Leaks, the financial scandal that has engulfed Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, reports Swiss newspapers Tribune de Geneve and Le Temps. Luanda Leaks, a trove of leaked documents published by investigative news organisation ICIJ, revealed Angolan state funds were allegedly channeled to Ms dos Santos, helping make her the richest woman in Africa. Even before the leaked documents, Ms dos Santos and her family were already under pressure from her father’s successor, who has vowed to root out corruption in the oil-rich African nation. According to the documents, a portion of went to fund De Grisogono, which was acquired by a Angolan investors in 2012. The investment was led by Ms dos Santos’ husband, Sindika Dokolo, but allegedly funded by Sodiam, Angola’s state-owned diamond company. With De Grisogono continuing to lose money since 2012, the brand’s owners had been hawking De Grisogono for some time with no luck, and Luanda Leaks were the final nail in the coffin – the brand declared bankruptcy on Tuesday, January 28, 2020. The King of Black Diamonds Founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993, De Grisogono was perhaps most famous for its incredibly lavish annual party at the Cannes Film Festival – reputedly costing as much as 3 million francs in some years – that everyone who ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition (Live Pics And Pricing)
Diving for gold with a new GMT that benefits the Coral Restoration Foundation
Revolution
Closer Look: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
The ultra-thin, ultra-impressive addition to the Octo Finissimo family gets a closer look, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
Revolution
Oris Honey No. 3 Auctioned for ‘Watch & Act!’
We’re proud to announce that number 003/250 of our Oris Honey limited edition Divers Sixty-Five is now part of the ‘Watch & Act!’ auction catalog (Lot 23)
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal
Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...
SJX Watches
Interview: Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence
The left field of watchmaking has yielded many unusual and exotic time displays, but few have the same sense of function and purpose as Ressence. In fact, the essence of the brand is its name, which is short for the “Renaissance of the Essential”. Perhaps a key ingredient of the renaissance is the fact that its founder is not a watchmaker. Ressence was founded a decade ago by Benoît Mintiens, a Belgian industrial designer whose past work included trains, newsstands, and luggage. From the start, the identity of Ressence was crystal clear. The brand’s debut line of watches had dials that relied on a planetary gear mechanism to indicate the time (as well as a crown, which has since been removed from all its watches). Akin to a 21st century regulator-style display, it was an avant-garde way of displaying time, while still surprisingly intuitive. Benoit Mintiens Even more surprising was the longevity of the planetary time display, which has since spawned various iterations, often accompanied by novel innovations ranging from the oil-filled time display in the Type 3, to the more recent Type 2 that’s a mechanical watch that can set itself thanks to an electronic module. When Benoît visited Singapore in late 2019, I got a chance to explore his design philosophy, especially on how his background in industrial design helped inform his unique approach to watchmaking. He also delved into the subtleties of a Ressence wristwatch, and dropped a few hints about a new time ...
Deployant
Enamel dial atelier in Singapore – Travailler et Jouer Watches
We visited the atelier of Travailler Watches in Singapore, possibly the only enamel dial maker in the island. Jeremy Moi showed us around and demonstrates.
Revolution
Closer Look: Hublot Big Bang Integral
Hublot gives the Big Bang a facelift and puts it on an integrated metal bracelet for the watch’s 15th anniversary with the Big Bang Integral
Revolution
Watch I Love: Omega Dynamic
In the ‘Watch I Love’ series, Revolution editors take turns to reveal their favourite watch. Here, Richard Holt presents the Omega Dynamic.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: De Bethune Dream Watch 5 in Rose Gold
De Bethune’s brand of watchmaking has spawned many avant-garde watches, ranging from the Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch to the East Asian-inspired Maestri Art. But its most outstanding sculptural creation is unquestionably the Dream Watch 5, an extraterrestrial seashell that tells the time. Originally launched in 2014 in mirror-polished titanium, the original Dream Watch 5 was extremely expensive, but also tiny, having the proportions of a lady’s watch. Fortunately, it was later enlarged to its current size of just under 60 mm at its widest, from crown to pointed tip, though it remains just as expensive. The Dream Watch was then iterated into several one-off examples, with the most incredible being the Dream Watch 5 in heat-blued meteorite; its extraordinary nature matched by the US$450,000 price tag. The Dream Watch 5 in meteorite More recently, a custom version of the Dream Watch 5 in 18k rose gold was delivered last year. Even though the design is exactly the same as the other variants, the rose gold specimen has a distinctly more classical look that dials back on the sci-fi feel. Like the other versions of the watch, the Dream Watch 5 in rose gold is entirely mirror polished, but also accented by an insert of polished, heat-blued titanium on the case back that extends to the crown, which is also made of the same material and then topped with a 1 carat ruby. Despite its aesthetics, the Dream Watch 5 is actually functionally simple: it indicates the hours and m...
Quill & Pad
Hermès Arceau Squelette: How A ‘Smokescreen’ Achieves Ultimate Elegance
Martin Green doesn't like skeleton watches despite adoring the craftsmanship that goes into making them because he isn't fond of seeing a stunning movement with a backdrop of skin and pressed hair. Hermès solved that problem with the Arceau Squelette, which showcases the beauty of the movement without any "hairy" backdrop by using a "smokescreen."
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #160: Axis Power Watches
What is it about watches issued to WWII Axis Powers that drives watch collectors crazy? Listen in as Kaz and Mike break down the attraction and history behind these controversial timepieces.
Hodinkee
Business News: Grand Seiko To Open First European Boutique In Paris's Place Vendôme
For its first European Boutique, the Japanese watchmaker has chosen an address synonymous with Parisian luxury.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Longines Heritage Military 1938
Longines has been cranking out vintage remakes at a furious pace over the last year, most notably the Heritage Classic “sector” dial and Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. All of them share the appealing qualities of being well-priced and fairly authentic remakes. The latest to be released is the Heritage Military 1938, a remake of an oversized watch Longines produced in the 1930s, often for Eastern European markets. It’s as good as the other remakes in terms of value – Longines excel at making value-for-money watches – but falls a bit flat with the dial. The ref. 4092 The inspiration for the new remake is the ref. 4092, a wristwatch that is exceptionally large for its time, with its steel case measuring 43 mm in diameter. Such extra-large watches with military-style dials appear to have mostly been sold to Eastern Europe; Zipper, the Longines agent in Poland at the time is often named as the recipient in archive extracts. A vintage ref. 4092 from the Longines Museum (left) next to the Heritage Military 1938 The rarity and remarkable size of the ref. 4092, along with its appealing military-style dial, makes it a fairly valuable watch today. Even an example with a severely-aged dial sold for 23,750 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2017. So unlike other modern-day remakes that are enlarged versions of vintage originals, the Heritage Military 1938 is just right; it is exactly the same size as the original, but priced at just a tenth of the auction result. The remake Th...
Revolution
Closer Look: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Bulgari pushes watchmaking boundaries again with the smallest tourbillon on the market, housed now in the fantastic Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Onyx Datejust, An Educational Piece From Technicum Neuchâteloise Le Locle, And A Rattrapante Pocket Watch From Omega
Your weekly edition of hottest watches from around the web.
Revolution
Closer Look: Hublot Classic Fusion Gold Crystal
Hublot’s Classic Fusion Gold Crystal recreates one of the world’s rarest forms of the precious metal.
Quill & Pad
In Conversation With Adrian Hallmark, Chairman And CEO Of Bentley: Sustainability, Hybrids, And Full Electrics
Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle sat down with Bentley chairman and CEO Adrian Hallmark to discuss how the last 100 years have set the company up for the future and how sustainability and electrification have been established as the new frontier.
Revolution
Closer Look: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition
Zenith pays tribute to the iconic Land Rover Defender, one of the most celebrated vehicles in modern history, with the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition.
Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire
Released in 2019, IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire is available in both stainless steel and bronze. It features a similar layout to the previous generation 7750 movement Pilot's chronographs but with a reduced size at 41 mm and an in-house movement.