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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials Fratello
Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Apr 9, 2024

Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

Last year, Rolex introduced the new Cosmograph Daytona collection, which featured a slightly more refined design than its predecessor and was met with great praise. This year, The Crown cranks up the bling with two diamond-set models with mother-of-pearl dials. While that may sound super flashy, these new models show wonderful restraint for a pair […] Visit Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials to read the full article.

Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 41mm Goes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black

Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]

New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Mar 22, 2024

New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches

The Baltic Hermétique line has been the brand's consciously sized, vintage-inspired dress/field watch with a crown that sits flush with the case. The versatility of the watch, due to its size and the ability to wear it on either wrist with the recessed crown, has made it a fan favorite. Baltic has chosen bold textures for the new limited edition dials but still keeps everything we know and love about the Hermétique line.

First Look - The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option Monochrome
Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets Mar 21, 2024

First Look - The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option

Next to the vintage-inspired Legend Diver collection, the Longines HydroConquest is a more utilitarian, robust, classic diver, with water-resistance up to 300 metres, a unidirectional, external rotating bezel, a screw-in crown and a screw-down caseback. Following the introduction of the practical, versatile and mostly visually appealing HydroConquest GMT last year in a 41mm case, Longines […]

Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton travels Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Three new limited editions are relaunching the Escale line at Louis Vuitton. Inspired by highly decorated tsubas (katana sword guards) collected by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. Utilising a plethora of métiers d’art techniques to depict three evocative creatures. Louis Vuitton continues its overhaul of its watch lines under the leadership of Jean Arnault, where the brand has … ContinuedThe post Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Date Feb 26, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date

In my latest review, I tackle a brand that deserves more appreciation than it currently gets. But does the watch warrant the price tag? Let’s find out What We Love A ‘less is more’ design packed with fantastic detail Thin, wearable and versatile, even at 42mm Comfortable rubber strap What We Don’t The price point isn’t outside of reality, but it’s still steep Significant dead zone on the crown when winding or time-setting Is the double-security clasp really necessary? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 When I initially joined WatchAdvice, I met with Chamath and Matt over breakfast to discuss what the company was all about. From what I remember, an extract of that talk went about as follows: Chamath: It would be awesome if you could write a review! Name a watch brand, and I’ll happily try to secure something for you to review! Me: MB&F;! Chamath: Um… Try again, maybe? To be honest, totally understandable. If I were in Chamath’s position, giving the new guy access to an MB&F; LMP1 Evo from the jump is practically a death sentence – Leaving even the wrong piece of dust on one would probably end with me working for WatchAdvice in eternal ‘indentured servitude.’ So, I had to set my sights on more realistic opportunities. Note: I said more realistic and not lower. Even without access to the extremes of haute horlogerie, I still had a whole host of amazing brands to choose from. After thinking...

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon SJX Watches
Urwerk inspired Project 1 Barrelhand Feb 22, 2024

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon

Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1  mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

Review: the Fujifilm X100v Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2024

Review: the Fujifilm X100v

Editor’s Note: Chris Gampat is a New York City based photographer who founded The Phoblographer in 2009, where he serves as Editor-in-Chief and Publisher. Therapy is a beautiful thing – it’s why we have soul-soothing hobbies like horology. The winding action of a Seagull 1963’s crown is a meditative process that reminds us to sometimes slow down when the seconds of a day are still ticking away. It’s a lot like turning the shutter speed dial on a camera – except that those are broken down into fractions of a second.  Ask any photographer: if there were any iconic camera of recent years on the mind, it would be the Fujifilm X100v (MSRP $1399). Most of us appreciated it like a constant partner to walk hand in hand with as we documented everyday life. This appreciation spurred love letters and video vignettes by the TikTok community, of whom many perhaps discovered the deep love one can have for an aesthetic camera such as this. But can this romantic gem capture the moment that a watch lover can understand? There’s an appreciation for mechanical devices that we establish through our hobbies and pastimes. That appreciation is realized when you pick up the Fujifilm X100v. In cold weather, it feels like a cold memory documenter that will be with you through the most beautiful moments of your vacation. Looking at the front, we’re immediately understanding the retro appeal. The iconic shape of the camera is recognizable by nearly anyone. It’s here that we also se...

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph Monochrome
Tudor Predictions 2024 – Feb 13, 2024

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph

A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Deployant
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Jan 20, 2024

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy

The Panerai Luminor Due was a collection which was first introduced in 2017, as the mid-sized, unisex Luminor model. The movement then was designated as the OP XXXIV which is assumed to have been renamed the P.900 caliber which is now found inside the new Due. The 42mm case Luminor Due bears the same crown guard as the iconic Luminor Marina, but with only 50m water resistance. Its slim profile and polished case is a marked stylistic variation from the original dive watch. The new dial color adds a nice statement to the hybrid classic timepiece.

First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions Monochrome
Zenith Pilot Automatic Jan 16, 2024

First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions

Nearly a year ago, Zenith made a striking debut with the all-new Pilot collection, introducing the Big Date Flyback chronograph and the Automatic models, both available in either stainless steel or black ceramic. A departure from the earlier Zenith Pilot references, these watches showcased a fresh look, featuring a new case and crown, dial designs, […]

Which Rolex Models Might Become Future Classics? Watchbox’s Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos Answer that Question with Analytics and Trends (Video) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Models Might Become Future Jan 14, 2024

Which Rolex Models Might Become Future Classics? Watchbox’s Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos Answer that Question with Analytics and Trends (Video) - Reprise

Which Rolex models will be most sought after by collectors in the future? That’s not a trick question. And Watchbox’s director of media Tim Mosso and global head of trading Mike Manjos are here to answer it for you in the second episode of Watchbox’s new video series “Around the Crown,” which is dedicated to future classics from the Rolex catalog.

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

Hands-on - The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 20, 2023

Hands-on - The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve

Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver Nov 16, 2023

The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case

The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification.  Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 15, 2023

MB&F; Introduces the HM11 Architect

MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows.  Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved).  Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

The Many Handwinding Flavors of Hamilton Worn & Wound
Hamilton There’s something special about Oct 8, 2023

The Many Handwinding Flavors of Hamilton

There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jaeger-LeCoultre rel... Sep 17, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II WatchAdvice
Bremont Martin-Baker II Spring Sep 2, 2023

REVIEW: Getting Out & About With The Bremont Martin-Baker II

Spring is here and a great time to get out and about, so I took the Bremont Martin-Baker II on a couple of outdoor adventures to see how this robust watch holds up in our latest Hands On Review! What We Love Comfortable on the wristBright, easy to read dialOrange colour pops & is fun What We Don’t Crown is hard to pull out and setWears on the larger sideStrap can be a little finicky to put on Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 For those that aren’t aware off the Martin-Baker story, here’s a quick re-cap. Martin-Baker is a British aviation company responsible for supplying 70% of the world’s Air Forces with fighter ejection seat technology. They first approached Bremont to create the definitive aviation watch in 2007. More than simply putting a logo on an existing model, the watch had to withstand the same rigorous testing programme as the ejection seats themselves. Two years later, the Bremont Martin-Baker I (MBI) was born and limited solely for pilots who have ejected from an aircraft using a Martin-Baker seat – something that is not all that fun and puts a tremendous amount of stress on the body and the watch! The MBI with red case ring – only for pilots who’ve survived a live ejection The MBII and MBIII were then produced for the general public, designed to the same strict standards of the MBI, but available in a range of colours and variants, with people able to choose their own colour for the mid...