Results for Plongeur Hand (Lollipop)

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57

A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer - Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration - Reprise

Many of you are likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, GaryG's starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. Read on to discover what he has learned since then.

INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith

“I’ve always had a fascination with timepieces. As a DJ, back in the day, most of the records I bought didn’t have BPMs (beats per minutes) on them and, when you’re mixing, you need to know what they are. So you’d go to your watch and set your second hand to work out the record’s … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: DJ Carl Cox reveals why he made a watch with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Hand-Wind

Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God - I’m Jaded No Longer

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs perfectly today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

Up Close: Nomos Orion Hand-Wind

Deciding on an entry-level watch is exciting, but also confusing, especially for a first-time buyer. It’s often a problem of too many choices. Competition is strong in the segment, with the usual suspects like Seiko and Nomos, but also newly-established “micro brands” all competing in the same space. One of the standouts in terms of value, however, is the Nomos Orion, which combines aesthetics and functionality in a clean, approachable package. Old school of design The simplicity of its design means the Orion has aged surprisingly well.  It doesn’t look it, but the Orion is almost 30 years old – Nomos introduced the model in 1992, two years after the brand was established. The Orion still looks modern today – evidence of its durable design. The Orion is refreshing in its simplicity, instant legibility, and charming typography, all accented by subtle but quirky details like the minute track. The success of the design can be attributed to its philosophical inspiration, Deutscher Werkbund. Although Nomos watches are often described as being Bauhaus-inspired, they are actually designed according to the philosophy of the Deutscher Werkbund. A community founded in 1907, Deutscher Werkbund’s goal was to revolutionise industry and manufacturing in Germany by elevating the artistic and practical elements in products to make the easier to mass produce. Strongly influential in early 20th century industrial design, the movement later gave birth to Bauhaus, the better-...

Sunday Rewind: Hamiltons Worth Two In Hand

A warbler for every wrist.  

Introducing: The IWC 'Laureus Sport for Good' Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher Limited Edition (Live Pics & Pricing)

This is the 14th watch IWC has made with the foundation.

“I was born with a pencil in my hand” - Sunflowerman

In the age of mighty megapixel macros, it sometimes takes the inspired flourish of fine art to help us see even precious things in a different light.

Introducing the Hand-Finished White Ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Perfect Black: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic

Revolution speaks with François-Henry Bennahmias and Giulio Papi on the many challenges Audemars Piguet had to overcome in order to create SIHH 2017’s most talked about watch: The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in hand-finished black ceramic.

Back In Black: The Hand-Finished Black Ceramic Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet launch the Ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar at SIHH 2017.

Hand-Krafted

Watch enthusiast and sartorial powerhouse Alexander Kraft joins forces with A Lange & Söhne to create a new range of exclusive watchstraps.

Southpaws: A Roundup of Left-Hand Crown Watches Past and Present

Vintage Ebay Watch Find: Longines Nonius Valjoux 72 Vernier Seconds Hand

World's first practical fractions of a second display on a watch was actually invented by Longines for the Helsinki Olympics and was only released in 1968.

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

Seiko Gives the Honda Motocompo Its Own 5 Sports Limited Edition - HDB010

Seiko has turned one of Honda’s strangest ideas into a watch. The new Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition HDB010 takes the colours and small details of the folding 1980s scooter then places them inside a compact automatic field watch. This is more than a yellow dial with two famous logos. The crown copies a label from the scooter’s fuel control, the strap borrows its loading instructions and the box looks like the carton used to ship the Motocompo. Even the caseback has been turned into a bright red display for the 4R36 movement. A 45-year-old scooter becomes a watch Honda introduced the Motocompo in 1981 alongside the first Honda City. It was a 49cc two-stroke motorcycle created to fit inside the City’s luggage area. The handlebars and footrests folded into its rectangular body, while special systems helped prevent fuel, oil or battery fluid from leaking inside the car. Honda described the idea as a new six-wheel lifestyle, combining a small car with a motorcycle that could be carried in its trunk. The scooter weighed 42kg dry, produced 2.5 horsepower and measured only 1.185 metres long. Its small wheels and box-like panels made it instantly recognisable. Production lasted from 1981 until 1983, yet the Motocompo continued to gain fans long after it disappeared from showrooms. The HDB010 arrives for its 45th anniversary and uses the yellow version of the scooter as its main source of inspiration. A compact Field Series case in Motocompo colours The HDB010 ...

The ABCs of Time - A Comprehensive Guide to Chronometer Certifications and In-House Quality Seals

Watchmakers have chased precision since the dawn of portable timekeeping in the 16th century, but it wasn’t until the late 17th century that watches became accurate enough to support minute hands. A single hour hand was the norm for over a century, as accuracy was off by hours per day, but thanks to the balance […]

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence

Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...

The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality

Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...

Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials

Watchmaking enthusiasts know MeisterSinger and the foundational idea behind its creations: time does not always need to be read to the nearest second. Two of the Münster-based brand’s long-standing models, the No03 and the Perigraph, now come as special editions that pair the signature single-hand display with a cool new dial colour. Both watches are […]

Inside the Release Party Omega’s New Bond and Spectre-Edition Seamasters with CEO Raynald Aeschlimann

On Monday evening in Los Angeles, Omega celebrated Global James Bond Day with a launch party for the latest collection of Seamaster Diver 300Ms to join the Omega x James Bond Universe–including their first Spectre-themed watches ever. With CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on-hand and surrounded by a collection of iconic props from the Bond films (including Agent Primo’s bionic eyeball from No Time To Die), Omega displayed some of these new Bond references publicly for the first time. At the core of the new collection are a pair of non-limited steel models, a James Bond Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004) and a Spectre Edition (ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023). Omega will also offer a duo of limited edition models rendered in platinum-gold: the Bond-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.03.001 and the Spectre-themed ref. 210.83.42.20.01.001. The limited edition watches will be sold exclusively in sets that include one of the limited edition Bond or Spectre watches and a numbered example (1-77) of the corresponding non-limited steel model. The numbered editions of the steel models get their own reference numbers, but don’t differ from the non-limited watches in any meaningful way. So, while the collection technically boasts six new references, it’s really only four new watches. Got it?  All of the watches in the new series share the familiar 42mm case diameter with the current production model Seamaster 300M, but the new models are a hair thicker at 14.23 mm. While fans that have been holding ou...

Do The Baume & Mercier Clifton 10870 And Perpetual Calendar 10872 Break The Ice?

The Clifton 10870 and 10872 with ice-blue dials are two new limited editions in Baume & Mercier’s collection. The 39mm three-hand automatic features a date at 6 o’clock, and the 40mm perpetual calendar adds day, month, leap-year cycle, and moonphase indicators. Both creations use the five-day Baumatic movement and feature a light blue dial with […] Visit Do The Baume & Mercier Clifton 10870 And Perpetual Calendar 10872 Break The Ice? to read the full article.

Breguet takes the Marine 5517 and 5527 into deeper waters with fresh guilloché dials

Breguet refreshes the Marine 5517 and flyback Chronographe 5527 with new hand-guilloché dials in white gold, rose gold and titanium.

First Look - The new Venezianico Redentore Levius, Italian Power and Titanium Case

Founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017, Venezianico is a Venice-based brand, originally known as Meccaniche Veneziane. In recent years, it has increasingly focused on bringing more of its watch production and craftsmanship to Italy. The new Redentore Levius is one good example of the effort, combining a lightweight titanium case with a hand-engraved […]

Orient Star Stripped Down Their Latest Automatic Watch, and I Think It Works

The Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand strips away the date and power reserve for a cleaner design built around a new F7542 automatic movement.

A Night of Watches and Enthusiasm in Salt Lake and Officially Introducing Worn & Wound Recommended

On August 27, Worn & Wound headed west for an evening of watches, good conversation, and plenty of time spent with fellow enthusiasts. Hosted with Citizen Watch America at Morgan Jewelers’ Center of Brilliance in Murray, Utah, the event brought together members of the local watch community and Morgan Jewelers’ clientele for a night of exploring, learning, and, of course, talking watches. With rare and unique watches from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frédérique Constant on hand, there was plenty to see and plenty of reasons to linger. Attendees were able to get watches out of the case and onto their wrists, compare notes, ask questions, and learn from both the brands and one another. And, as tends to happen when a room is full of watch people, the conversation quickly moved well beyond the watches on display. There were plenty of highlights, including the Citizen Eco-Drive Photon, celebrating 50 years of Eco-Drive, as well as the limited-edition Hand-dyed Indigo Washi Paper Dial. Accutron brought its Spaceview 314, while Bulova showed off the retro-styled Super Seville Precisionist. Frédérique Constant and Alpina rounded out the mix with everything from an in-house worldtimer to the solar-powered Alpiner Extreme. But the watches were only half the fun. Enthusiasts mixed and mingled with Morgan Jewelers’ clientele throughout the evening, sharing collecting stories, swapping wrist shots, and helping one another discover something new. Some left with new kn...

Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38

Omega is introducing a new Speedmaster 38 collection. For a long time, Omega offered a serious alternative to the famous Moonwatch for those who wanted a smaller automatic version. The Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50 was in production from 1988 to around 2010. In its final years, demand for the 42mm hand-wound Speedmaster Professional was simply higher. […] Visit Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38 to read the full article.

The ABCs of Time - The History and Evolution of Watch Clasps

Following up on our recent ABCs of Time article on the history of watch bracelets, we turn our attention to clasps, which are much more than simple closures today. In fact, some of the best are R&D; marvels with intense engineering, CNC machining, extensive hand finishing and dozens of parts requiring extremely tight tolerances. The […]