Hodinkee
Business News: The Finalists For The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
84 finalists, 14 categories, but only one grand prize.
Results for Universal Genève
491 articles · 96 videos found · page 13 of 20
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Krayon Anywhere Universal Sunrise-Sunset Complication
Krayon's signature complication in a newer, more versatile incarnation.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève
When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève
Living large in the logo.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Bonus Episode: 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Results
You want takes? Oh, we've got 'em.
Video
Elise likes Breitling pistachios, DOXA ice cream and walking the MB&F; bulldog at Geneva Watch Days!
SJX Watches
Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
This year’s GPHG saw a total of no less than 196 watches entered into the running for one of the night’s awards. The jury, presided over by Aurel Bacs, then pre-selected 84 models, divided into 14 categories. The latter included four new awards – the Iconic Watch, Diver’s Watch, Calendar and Astronomy and Horological Revelation. The outcome is similar to last year’s, with a strong ratio of independents among the winners. Out of 18 watch awards, eight were awarded to independents including Kudoke (Petite Aiguille), Ming (Horological Revelation) and newcomer Genus, (Mechanical Exception), while virtuoso watchmaker Voutilainen scooped two awards (Men’s Watch and Artistic Crafts). The biggest winner of the evening was Audemars Piguet who took home three awards including the top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – for its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The watch is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 6.3mm in height, achieved primarily by using a modified ultra-thin cal. 2120 as a base with a smartly designed perpetual calendar module on top that has an integrated end-of-month cam on the date wheel and a 48-month wheel with a novel geometry. Elsewhere, having lost to Genus in the Mechanical Exception category, Vacheron Constantin clinched the Innovation award with its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The watch addresses the problem of having to reset a perpetual calendar that has lain dormant. It utilises two balances osci...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Bonus Episode: 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Preview
Our editors cast their hypothetical votes for this year's most important watches.
Quill & Pad
Quill & Pad’s Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
The most interesting aspect of the Aiguille d’Or is how the winner won’t always be the most complicated, expensive, or groundbreaking. To win the Aiguille d’Or, a watch needs to be a fantastic all-around watch and have that little something extra, that 'je ne sais quoi.' So which watch has our panel set its sights upon? There is much discussion, of course . . .
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Bang For Your Buck Right Here
The GPHG Challenge category should probably more accurately be called the “Bang For Your Buck” category because this really is where you can see just how much watch you can get for your hard-earned dollar. But our panel is quite split on which watch delivers the most for the least.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Andersen Genève Montre à Tact for Only Watch 2019
Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino is a very persuasive man. Every two years, he manages to convince small watchmakers to risk neglecting paying customers, and instead to spend a lot of time and effort to exercise their creativity in building a one-off timepiece – and then give the resulting watch to the Only Watch charity auction. Most watchmakers regard it as an honour to be asked for a contribution, after all, the list of participants include boldface establishment names like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. While Luc also receives many offers from brands, he wants to curate an interesting mix of watches for each Only Watch auction, capped at a maximum of 50 watches or so each time – he alone decides what’s in and what’s out. A few brands have been dedicated supporters of the charity since the very beginning, and they are usually invited to return year after year. In the inaugural Only Watch auction in 2005, lot 1 was the unique Eros “Navigation Pleasure” wristwatch. It was the work of Andersen Genève, the brand founded by Svend Andersen, a 77-year old veteran independent watchmaker best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). When Luc visited Svend at Baselworld earlier this year to solicit a contribution for Only Watch 2019, he received a swift “yes”. With the watch required to be finished for a world tour starting just three months after Baselworld, quick decisions were necessary a...
Video
GENEVA WATCH DAYS! New Breitling, the Time+Tide DOXA 'pacific' Ltd Edn, Louis Erard & Gerald Charles
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The GPHG Chronograph category is interesting this year thanks to the mix of the old and the new, including a brand-new futuristic material in one and a record-breaking thinness in another. Our jury is split on choosing a winner, but not quite split down the middle.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Creating Future Icons Or Rewarding Existing Ones?
The GPHG Iconic category is for watches entered as “men’s or ladies watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.” Our panel is split, but has a clear favorite. Is it also yours?
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): It’s Complicated
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!
With our second set of predictions we take a look at the Ladies Complication category, a surprisingly packed collection of timepieces for women with more than an added moon phase or power reserve. These are very clearly designed to be different, and while we are collectively pretty sure one already has the win in the bag, it will definitely be an interesting category for the judges this year. Our panel was unanimous in its selection of one very beautiful and cleverly complex timepiece.
Hodinkee
Business News: The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Finalists
One of these will take home watchmaking's biggest prize.
Video
Zachy's in LOVE - with a handful of hot new watches from Geneva Watch Days, inc this insane GP
SJX Watches
Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello”
Anyone who followed Formula 1 in the 1990s to the early 2000s would remember Rubens Barrichello as effective driver. Though the Brazilian did not win any championships, he notched up 11 wins and 68 podium finishes. Like many fellow Formula 1 drivers, Mr Barrichello likes watches and was once an Audemars Piguet ambassador; the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II of 2006 was one of the hottest watches of the era. Unsurprisingly, Mr Barrichello is apparently a fan of the Rolex Daytona – arguably the auto racing watch – explaining his collaboration with Artisans de Genève, a Swiss outfit that specialises in customising Rolex watches. They gave his Rolex Daytona a makeover to create “La Barrichello”, a strikingly and heavily modified Cosmograph Daytona with an open-worked movement. Notably, Artisans de Genève just last year performed a similar custom job on a Daytona belonging to Juan-Pablo Montoya, another F1 driver who was active in the sport at the same time as Mr Barrichello. Both drivers’ skeletonised watches are novel in a good way; much of Artisans de Genève’s other creations are modern Daytonas modified to look like vintage “Paul Newman” Daytonas, which is arguably less interesting. Creative differences “La Barrichello” started out as the all-steel Daytona ref. 116520, which is the preceding generation of Daytona that was first introduced in 2000 before being replaced by the ref. 116500LN (distinguished by its ceramic bezel) in 2...
Revolution
Louis Vuitton Introduces a Flying Tourbillon with Poinçon de Genève
Louis Vuitton, the brand that we know and love from the world of Luggage, Leather Goods and Fashion has been making astounding watches for some time, yet today they have kicked things up a notch, with a watch that certainly marks a new era of intent and vision from the brand. We at Revolution are […]
Time+Tide
The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
Chinese watchmaking has been getting an increasing amount of recognition, and deservedly so, with CIGA Design seemingly leading this expansion. First being awarded the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the brand has once again been recognised for their achievements, this time by another important Swiss institution, … ContinuedThe post The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Expands Geneva Bracelet Manufacture
Audemars Piguet (AP) is increasing its presence in what’s historically been the territory of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Not only is AP returning to Watches & Wonders, the industry’s flagship event held each year in Geneva, the brand is also expanding its footprint in the city’s suburb of Meyrin with an expanded case and bracelet manufacture. What and where Meyrin was already the home of AP’s case and bracelet manufacture, but the brand has been bulking up on industrial capacity and took over a U-shaped building, completed in 1965 for a pharmaceutical company, in 2023. The new facility increases its Geneva footprint almost four-fold, to 9,000 square metres, with room for 350 staff. While the brand has built new structures closer to home, the choice to renovate an existing historical building is notable. Fortunately AP’s employees won’t be stuck in the past, as the building has been modernised for energy management and to accommodate modern machines. The building is a short jaunt from Les Boîtiers de Genève, F.P. Journe’s case and bracelet manufacture, in what’s already a hotbed of horological activity, home to brands like Roger Dubuis and Chopard. In addition, the new facility will be home to what the brand is calling its New Technologies hub, presumably part of the brand’s new approach to research and development, known internally as the ‘Fab Lab.’ Industrial excellence We recently had the chance to hear directly from AP’s chief indu...
SJX Watches
A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum
Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...
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Geneva Watch Days 2021 - Discovering new Frederique Constant Models for 2021 with Niels Eggerding
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2023 Exhibition in Geneva
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W;) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
Hodinkee
I Spent Last Week In Geneva, And The Andersen Geneve Rattrapante Mondial Was The Best Thing I Saw
While technically nothing new, it’s also a world first, and I liked it enough to actually write about it.
Revolution
Cartier’s Success Story: Exclusively Inclusive, Universally Unique
Cartier remains a remarkable success story, especially with the brand achieving a turnover of 3.1 billion CHF in 2023, according to the Swiss watch industry’s top 50 companies report by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult. We spoke with Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier, to explore the brand’s enduring appeal and core values that make it one […]
Hodinkee
A Photo Diary Of My Week In Geneva For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Geneve (Complete With Lots Of Wristshots)
Auctions, independents, the GPHG, and so many incredible watches.
SJX Watches
In the Eye of the Storm – A Letter From Geneva
Switzerland has declared a state of emergency as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus. Almost everything is closed, including schools, shops, and restaurants, with only businesses offering the basic necessities, like banks and supermarkets, being allowed to open. There is bad news from Switzerland’s neighbours as well; the virus has spread fast in Italy. A recent poll showed that only 8% of the Swiss population feel they are in great danger. I can assure you that 100% of watch brands are feeling the pressure. Many watch factories, particularly the privately-held brands, have shut down completely or are about to. That includes Rolex, which just closed all its facilities for two weeks starting March 17. Watch sales are falling all around the world, with some brands suffering drops of 30-40% in February, and duty-free sales – which are substantial for the watch industry – falling by up to 90% in major airports. We have seen many crises, but this is unprecedented. But the biggest blow to the industry so far – the cancellation of the major watch fairs, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) and Baselworld. Even though very little is actually sold at the fairs, they were universal events that brought everyone together, almost like an annual reunion of old friends (and competitors). The fairs were a major, major part of the larger imagination, so the cancellations feel like a massive blow for everyone in the industry. The accelerating fallout First, the timeline of the virus’ i...
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