Deployant
New and reviewed: Citizen Series 8 / 890 Mechanical
Citizen releases the Series 8 / 890 mechanical collection. We got our hands to test out the NB6060-58L for two weeks and present this detailed review.
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Deployant
Citizen releases the Series 8 / 890 mechanical collection. We got our hands to test out the NB6060-58L for two weeks and present this detailed review.
Fratello
The Baltic Hermétique collection consists of colorful and vintage-inspired field watches. I say “colorful” because, initially, it was “only” available in brown, green, beige, and blue. Somehow, I didn’t even notice that a black or white option wasn’t available. But one of our readers left a comment underneath Thomas’s hands-on article expressing his surprise at […] Visit Introducing The Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition In Black And White to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we bring news of a much-anticipated debut. The Fleming Series 1 is finally here, and we were able to go hands-on with a pre-production Tantalum model. This is a stunner in the truest sense, but I warn you that it isn’t an entry-level watch. This watch has an all-star cast behind it. Let’s take […] Visit Introducing: The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum to read the full article.
Fratello
Earlier this week, we covered the introduction of the new Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT. It’s a watch I can’t wait to find out more about soon in a hands-on review. In the meantime, the brand has released another noteworthy new C65 Dune model. Christopher Ward and Oracle Time present the new C65 Dune Shoreline. […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Oracle Time C65 Dune Shoreline to read the full article.
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet reveals new models that showcase the evolutionary design introduced on the first stainless steel Code 11.59 references in 2023. To update the more subdued and widely criticized design of previous dials, a unique “signature” embossed dial pattern has been specially created for this collection, together with different hands and markers, in collaboration between […]
Fratello
After many months in the making, the VPC Type 37HW is here, and I have the distinct pleasure of penning this hands-on introduction. We often ask ourselves, “Is it impossible to be original when endeavoring to design a new watch? Have all paths in crafting this functional object truly been taken? Have we seen it […] Visit Introducing: The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Daniel Craig had it first, but now the whole world can get their hands on the new white lacquer-dialled Omega Speedmaster Professional.The post Omega adds a white dial to the Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Origine by Sylvain Pinaud is an essentially simple watch telling only the time with three hands. The commitment to execution puts him on a level with some of the greats and is a good indicator that we will see a lot more from this burgeoning young brand.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...
Time+Tide
We get our hands on this motorsports-oriented chronograph ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 World Championship kicking off this weekend.The post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you were looking for an easy way to get your hands on some special MoonSwatches, you would've paid a pretty penny.The post MoonSwatch charity auction raises CHF 534,670 for Orbis International appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...
SJX Watches
Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...
Fratello
The first Tissot PR 516 was introduced in 1965, and a chronograph version followed three years later. Today, we get four new versions that lean on that aesthetic from the late ’60s and early ’70s. This is the new-for-2024 Tissot PR516 chronograph in three quartz versions and one hand-wound execution. I went hands-on to see […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s probably been five years since I first went hands-on with one of Carl Suchy & Söhne’s watches. It was a memorable experience because the watches struck me as modern yet somehow traditional. On the Waltz N°1, classic dial elements came together with a unique seconds display and an elegant, contemporary case. When the press […] Visit Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
In Martin Green's opinion, one of the most incredible qualities of Nomos is that they know how to make a small detail have large impact. The Orion Neomatic 41 Date New Black has hands and the numerals on the date disc in gold and that makes a big statement.
Fratello
Cuervo y Sobrinos is a brand that has made its mark with its unique story and remarkable timepieces. Over the last couple of years, I was lucky enough to go hands-on with several Cuervo y Sobrinos models, and I greatly enjoyed them. The timepieces often have interesting tales behind them, and the brand’s standout design […] Visit An Interview With Cuervo Y Sobrinos CEO Massimo Rossi On Growth, Market Positioning, And The Brand’s Latin Roots to read the full article.
Deployant
Zenith has recently released the flashiest Chronograph till date, the Zenith DEFY Extreme Mirror. We had a hands on session with it and it certainly makes us look ourselves in the mirror every time we look at the watch.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko is celebrating the 20th anniversary of 9R Spring Drive movement with a pair of limited editions featuring dials inspired by the sunrise at Mount Hotaka, a peak near the Grand Seiko workshop in Shiojiri. The first model is the Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary “Pink Snowflake” (SBGA497) that revisits the first ever watch model with the 9R but with the trademark “snowflake” dial in pink. And the second is the Sports Collection Spring Drive GMT Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary (SBGE305) combining a black ceramic bezel with a dark red sunburst dial. Initial Thoughts The invention of the Spring Drive calibre is arguably one of Seiko’s most important achievements. It encompasses most of the advantages of mechanical movement while retaining the accuracy of quartz. Similar to a fully mechanical movement, it is powered by a spring rather than a battery, while timekeeping is regulated by a quartz crystal. As the first-ever commercially available Spring Drive variant, 9R marks an important feat for Grand Seiko. Nevertheless, despite the two new releases being celebratory models for the 20th anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive movement, they don’t seem to offer anything remarkable or unprecedented. Rather, the choice of a Hotaka mountain-inspired dial for both watches seems cliche, considering how pink and red colour dials have been relatively common in the brand’s catalogue. Plus, the inspiration behind Grand Seiko’s dial seems rather repetitive, a...
Deployant
Introducing the new Polo 79 Ref. GOA49150. We got our hands on the pre-release sample earlier this year, and here is our review of the novelty.
SJX Watches
Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard, a brand well-known for its affordable collaborations with notable figures across different industries, has just dropped a wristwatch designed by a Swiss contemporary artist known for his abstract style. A variant of the brand’s classic regulator model, Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Oliver Mosset tells the time, but in an extremely minimalist, almost redacted manner, with just three hands rotating on a dial that evokes outer space. Initial Thoughts The design is clearly the work of an abstract artist; time-telling instrument it is not. In fact, it is not especially recognisable as a watch, particularly for someone unfamiliar with a regulator-style dial. The striking design will be polarising, particularly since it comes at the expense of function. It is, however, appealing in its own peculiar way and more broadly reflects the wide-ranging aesthetic adopted by Louis Erard thanks to Manuel Emch, now the brand’s creative chief and himself a collector of contemporary art. The only downside of the watch is the chunky case, which is shared by all Le Regulateur models. It’s thicker and bulkier than such a minimalist watch should be, but necessarily so due to the no-frills movement inside. But that also means the Oliver Mosset regulator is an affordable CHF3,750, as is typical for the brand. It’s a value proposition for a little bit of contemporary on the wrist. Not a watch That the watch was conceived as an artwork, rather than a timepiece is indicated by the l...
Fratello
IFL Watches is one of the remarkable success stories of the past few years within the world of watches. I vividly remember seeing the brand’s Tissot PRX Arctic Sky and Midnight Sky models for the first time. At the hands of IFLW’s artists, the PRX had transformed into something even more unique with beautiful handpainted […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound has always been about the active lifestyle: exploring the world around us, getting our hands dirty, and, more generally, using our gear – from watches, to knives, to pens – how it was meant to be used. We believe the value of the products we use and create comes from their utility, and in using them we can fully appreciate them. This spirit of adventure and action is what inspired us to collaborate with BOLDR on what can only be considered a rig of a watch: The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT GMT Limited Edition. Read on to find out what makes this watch special and why we’re proud to offer it here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, remember to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase! Worn & Wound has always been about the active lifestyle: exploring the world around us, getting our hands dirty, and, more generally, using our gear – from watches, to knives, to pens – how it was meant to be used. We believe the value of the products we use and create comes from their utility, and in using them we can fully appreciate them. This spirit of adventure and action is what inspired us to collaborate with BOLDR on what can only be considered a rig of a watch: The BOLDR x Worn & Wound 3XT GMT Limited Edition. Read on to find out what makes this watch special and why we’re proud to offer it here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, remember to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase! The post The BOLDR x ...
SJX Watches
Longines’ latest launch is unexpected in featuring a novel take on a useful complication: the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve has a power reserve indicator positioned at the centre of the dial, on the same axis as the hands. Though unusual, the central power reserve is actually found in the Conquest ref. 9028 from 1959, making this something of a vintage remake, which makes its debut just in time for the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. Initial thoughts The current Conquest collection is somewhat forgotten because it’s positioned between Longines’ sports watches like the Spirit and the vintage-inspired Heritage and Master models. Fortunately the new Conquest is interesting enough to stand out. Even though it’s not a new invention, the central power reserve indicator is uncommon. Furthermore, this particular power reserve display is a clever two-disc construction that makes the indicator a bit more life, so it adds visual flair to the dial. The central power reserve is arguably more legible than conventional indicators that are smaller. At the same time it gives the dial a pleasing symmetrical layout. Because of the symmetry, the date indicator at 12 actually works well and improves the dial design. Perhaps only downside of the design is the seemingly chunky case. Like many other Longines models, this Conquest appears to have thick lugs despite being fairly compact in diameter. In terms of price, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is mor...
Fratello
Recently, Certina provided me the opportunity to get my hands on a revived classic, the DS Super PH1000M. I love Certina, and I believe it’s a brand that does not get the kudos it deserves. This article is about the watch from which this new release took its design cues, and it has an incredible […] Visit The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As Griffin mentioned in his recent write up of the new Studio Underd0g release, our friends at Time+Tide are celebrating their tenth anniversary this year. A major part of the festivities for the Australian watch website centers around the opening of their Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne. The space is envisioned as a place to go hands-on with new watches from both independent and classic brands, all curated by the Time+Tide team. It’ll also be the home of new product launches and other watch community events, and there are plans to expand to London later this year. It’s an exciting concept, and serves as a starting point for an entirely new type of release from one of our favorite independents, Furlan Marri. The debut in their new Furlan Marri Editions line is tied exclusively to Time+Tide’s retail outlet, but in a twist, they’ll also be giving the general public a shot at the new watch as well. Furlan Mari Editions releases are conceived as special boutique editions geared toward collectors and enthusiasts. Like other boutique editions, they’ll be available exclusively at a dedicated point of sale. In this case, the Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy will be sold exclusively at the Time+Tide retail location in Melbourne, and later London. But in addition to being sold in these brick and mortar environments, Furlan Marri has elected to also make these releases available to the general public once a year, for a limited time. This way, dedicated fans can ...
Fratello
Today, we’ll go hands-on with models from the newest Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series. These are great-looking watches that bring a healthy dose of everyday utility along with cues from pilot’s watches. Expect great legibility and specs. Also, because this is Hamilton, all of that goodness is affordable. The Hamilton Khaki series will always have […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue. Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...
Monochrome
The latest release from independent watchmaker Cyrus, the Klepcys Dice Saffron, represents a fresh iteration of its groundbreaking Double Independent Chronograph Evolution, initially unveiled in 2021. While the Saffron edition primarily distinguishes itself with a new colour scheme, the technical prowess of this innovative watch series compelled us to delve into a hands-on experience to […]
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