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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’ SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster Nov 29, 2022

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’

Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022 SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2022

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” Nov 26, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz”

Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price Nov 22, 2022

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are

There are a lot of cheap watches out there, and to be honest, many of them look the part. Making a watch that is inexpensive enough to appeal to a broad audience yet also capable of impressing a discerning watch enthusiast with its build quality, finishing, movement, and design is a challenging task for even the most experienced and resourceful of watch manufacturers. The brands and models we spotlight below, in our humble opinion, successfully tread the line between entry-level value (prices range from under $100 to just shy of $600) and noteworthy quality and aesthetics.  Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, the most “expensive-looking” of which is this gold-toned model with a rectangular resin case, a stainless steel bracelet, and an electro-luminescent backlit display screen. The watch features an array of useful functions including a 1/100-second stopwatch with elapsed times and split times, daily alarms, hourly time signals, an auto-calendar, and timekeeping options in both 12-hour and 24-hour format. Best of all, this combination of high functionality and gilded flair can be had for under $70. Scurfa Diver O...

Auction Watch: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Hermès Introduced Nov 20, 2022

Auction Watch: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is a double-session event on November 27 that will be headlined by the first installment of The Triazza Collection, a remarkable accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman that includes the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in platinum (which is not going under the hammer for now). Amongst the important timepieces in the collection that are going on the block this season are several pocket watches, including two masterpieces from Patek Philippe, one an observatory tourbillon from 1924 and the other a ref. 605 HU world time with a cloisonné dial. The ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch Beyond the Triazza offerings, the rest of the 218-lot catalogue also includes other significant interesting pocket watches, including several possibly unique by Patek Philippe with affordable estimates, including one relief engraved with a 16th century sailing ship. Below we take a look at a some of the notable pocket watches (and one clock) in the auction. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2387 – Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Hermès Introduced in 2013, the Atmos Hermès was a collaboration between Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Parisian leather goods ho...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...