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Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton makes Jul 7, 2023

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023

The Gérald Genta brand, which has recently been revived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watchmaking manufacture of Louis Vuitton, makes its debut with a unique creation for Only Watch 2023. The Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023 retains the brand’s signature octagonal case, a shape historically known as the “Success”, while showcasing the whimsical side of the brand with a champlevé enamel dial featuring Mickey Mouse carrying a birthday cake. And like many past Gérald Genta watches, it tells the time with a retrograde minutes and jumping hours – along with a minute repeater. Initial thoughts The long awaited comeback of Gérald Genta, a given after its sister brand Daniel Roth was resurrected, raised expectations given the brand’s elaborate complications of the 1990s as well as the current technical prowess of LFT. Unsurprisingly, the brand has combined two of the best known themes from its short history, the Fantasy line of Disney-licensed watches and striking complications. The watch is essentially a homage to Gérald Genta’s best hits of the 1990s. The Mickey House dial is a nod to the Fantasy watches, most of which had retrograde displays. And the octagonal case is modelled on the Success, a bestseller for the brand at the time. That said, the new case design has the addition of lugs that feel slightly out of place. The original Success designs either did without lugs entirely or had simple horizontal bar lugs, both of which arguably work better with the o...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off

While this week has had some interesting releases like the new Luis Vuitton Tambour W, the thing many watch enthusiasts have been discussing this week is not actually a watch or even industry news. It is a new social media platform: Threads. Meta launches Threads – will it take off within the watch community? I … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale! Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2023

Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale!

The fireworks may have ended but our party here at the Windup Watch Shop is continuing for just a few more days! Don’t miss out on some of the amazing deals we’ve got going on this week. Score a major discount on some of the best dive watches for the summer, today through July 7th, no discount code necessary. Let’s take a look at some of our favorite sale items below but check out the July 4th Spotlight page to discover more! The fireworks may have ended but our party here at the Windup Watch Shop is continuing for just a few more days! Don’t miss out on some of the amazing deals we’ve got going on this week. Score a major discount on some of the best dive watches for the summer, today through July 7th, no discount code necessary. Let’s take a look at some of our favorite sale items below but check out the July 4th Spotlight page to discover more! The post Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2023

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication

The industrial designs of ochs und junior watches have an immense impact allowed by their near brutalistic design codes, but the sheer simplicity of their approach to complications is what really draws us in. Their perpetual calendar being the penultimate example, requiring just 9 new components within the movement to operate. Ochs und junior are bringing this level of thinking to their line collection, which we’ve covered since its inception, with the introduction of a new moonphase capable of remaining accurate for 3,478.27 years before being off by a single day. In true ochs und junior fashion, they’ve accomplished this with the addition of just 5 additional parts to the ETA 2824-2 movement.  The new line watch is called the moon phase / selene, and it brings the moon to the dial in a unique manner, as you may have guessed when it comes to ochs und junior. There is a large moon phase aperture cut through through the bottom portion of the dial, with a monochromatic representation of the moon at opposing ends of a rotating disc. Dots underneath the dial represent each day, and each phase that the moon passes through. The remainder of the dial is rendered almost entirely in ochs blue, creating a rather serene experience of the romantic complication, save for the silver hour markers at each even hour. The total aesthetic here is classic ochs und junior, with minimal representation of the core components, and an untouched, raw experience of the materials at use. The two...

Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor Time+Tide
Rolex rescuers Jul 5, 2023

Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor

A few days ago, Hamid Al Ameri was partying with mates on a yacht in the waters off Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. At some stage, one of the group decided to go for a swim and jumped off the side of the boat. Somehow his watch came off his wrist as he entered the water … ContinuedThe post Dubai police turn Rolex rescuers to salvage Yacht-Master from ocean floor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment Time+Tide
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC Jul 5, 2023

Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment

Phoebe Waller-Bridge is a powerhouse comedic talent. The writer and actor masterminded the critically acclaimed television series Fleabag, produced and wrote the hit series Killing Eve, voiced the droid L3-37 in the Star Wars film Solo: A Star Wars Story, and was brought on as contributor for the screenplay of the last James Bond film, No Time … ContinuedThe post Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Louis Vuitton has Jul 5, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour

Louis Vuitton has redesigned its trademark wristwatch some two decades after it was introduced. In contrast to its predecessors, the Louis Vuitton Tambour has been refined and condensed into a thin, streamlined wristwatch that’s just 8.3 mm high. Sporting a touch of 1970s style, the new Tambour is equipped with the LFT023, an automatic movement featuring a micro-rotor. Representing the first of a new generation of Louis Vuitton movements, the LFT023 was developed by movement maker Le Cercle des Horlogers and features novel details like frosted bridges with relief borders and clear jewels. The new Tambour replaces all existing Tambour models, save for the high-end complications, like the automatons and minute repeaters, as well as the entry-level Street Diver. As a result, the once diverse and occasionally confusing offer of watches is rationalised to essentially three lines – Street Diver, the new Tambour, and complications. Initial thoughts Now 20 years old, the Tambour has been around long enough to become easily recognisable as Louis Vuitton’s trademark watch case. The original Tambour was an appealing design, particularly when paired with complications – I am personally a big fan of some complicated Tambour models – but it felt chunky even on a smaller scale. So the new Tambour is everything that the original was not – svelte and restrained. On its face it is not as recognisable as the original, but in profile it is clearly evolved from the original. The sl...

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife Time+Tide
Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Jul 5, 2023

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife

Australia has the highest rate of mammal extinction in the world with nearly one in three of our unique mammals at risk of dying out. The Foundation for National Parks & Wildlife are the charity partner of Australia’s national parks, ensuring that our wildlife and wilderness are conserved for future generations. What’s all this got to do … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 4, 2023

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché

T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands.  Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...

Legend and Legacy; Philippe Dufour’s 75th Birthday Celebration Revolution
Jul 4, 2023

Legend and Legacy; Philippe Dufour’s 75th Birthday Celebration

Revolution was honored to be invited to Philippe Dufour’s 75th birthday celebration, a truly magnificent event hosted by Dufour’s family. This awe-inspiring gathering brought together esteemed watchmaking legends and passionate horology enthusiasts, uniting to celebrate the exceptional life and achievements of the legendary man himself. We also celebrate Daniela Dufour, Philippe’s daughter, as she follows her father’s […]

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Jul 3, 2023

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial

Ming is back with an updated version of their 37.05, which you might remember was announced in late 2021 as the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Ming has given the 37.05 Series 2 (which they’ve nicknamed the “Ad Astra”) a series of whimsical refinements that play on the inherent romance of a moonphase complication. Those aesthetic tweaks are, of course, uniquely Ming in nature, making use of their expanding proficiency with a variety of materials, and a rather ingenious use of high powered luminescent material.  You’ll immediately notice that the big change to the new 37.05 is with the dial. Ming has gone from a textured blue dial with a subtle moonphase indicator at the 6:00 position to an anthracite dial with prominent brushed finishing. Star shaped holes have been added to the dial, which fill in with lume as the moonphase disc rotates underneath. The 37.05 still uses a sapphire upper dial, which is where you’ll find hour markers, the moon “mask” which is used to define the phase of the moon, as well as plenty of inlaid HyCeram lume to provide a bit of a light show when fully charged. Ming notes that the stars on the sapphire upper dial have HyCeram lume applied to both the upper and lower surfaces for increased visual depth.  The 37.05 Series 2 is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW288-1, which is the same caliber used in the prior moonphase, and has been extensively reworked and decorated in the same fashion. The bridges have b...

Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Squale Jul 3, 2023

Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition

We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season.  The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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Furlan Marri goes Big What Jul 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big

What a week! On episode 56 of A Week in Watches we cover a lot, yet barely even scratch the surface of what launched (don’t worry, we’ll get back to it next week). We start off with a look at the second collaboration between Louis Erard and Massena LAB. From there, we descend the depths of the Omega Seamaster catalog with a special collection of 11 new watches for the lines 75th anniversary. After, there’s a speed round where we quickly cover the Tissot PRX 35mm, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel 38mm Cotton Candy Collection, and the Cara Barrett x Timex collab. Whew. The last segment focuses on a truly epic project by Furlan Marri, the Secular Perpetual Calendar for the upcoming Only Watch auction in November. Quite a week. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater and its Large Digits: Does it Cause Hyperdigitalia? – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 2, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater and its Large Digits: Does it Cause Hyperdigitalia? – Reprise

Joshua Munchow has a strong affinity for A. Lange & Söhne, for one because beginning with the Lange 1 and the later Zeitwerk, and now with the new Odysseus, the brand has created a very specific aesthetic around large digital displays. Here he explains why and how Lange's large numerals and letters work (and not only for him!).

New: Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Monobalancier Deployant
Roger Dubuis x Dr Woo Monobalancier Jul 1, 2023

New: Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Monobalancier

The Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo Excalibur Dr. Woo Monobalancier is a watch that combines the art of tattooing and the art of watchmaking in a unique and captivating way. The watch is the second collaboration between Roger Dubuis, a Swiss luxury watchmaker that specializes in Hyper Horology™, and Dr. Woo, a renowned tattoo artist from Los Angeles who has a distinctive style of fine lines and geometric shapes.

Formex Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Jun 30, 2023

Formex Watches Guide

Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio.  Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 30, 2023

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois”

Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...

Our July 4th Sale is Now Live! – Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Brew s Jun 30, 2023

Our July 4th Sale is Now Live! – Windup Watch Shop

The 4th of July is right around the corner! It’s hard to believe that we’ve reached the halfway point of 2023, but what better way to celebrate than with a special July 4th Sale right here at the Windup Watch Shop?! Hotdogs, brews, and fireworks are great and all, but a watch will last you a lifetime! Here’s everything you need to know about the sale: The 4th of July is right around the corner! It’s hard to believe that we’ve reached the halfway point of 2023, but what better way to celebrate than with a special July 4th Sale right here at the Windup Watch Shop?! Hotdogs, brews, and fireworks are great and all, but a watch will last you a lifetime! Here’s everything you need to know about the sale: The post Our July 4th Sale is Now Live! – Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages Time+Tide
Certina s new all-purpose DS Jun 30, 2023

Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages

Certina is introducing a small wrist-friendly version of their capable DS Action diver in 34.5mm The collection consists of five references with classically coloured lacquer or blingier mother-of-pearl dials As part of the Swatch Group, Certina has access to the ever-popular ETA Powermatic 80, choosing it to power this new release Often overlooked for its … ContinuedThe post Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting Jun 29, 2023

eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...