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Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Oct 3, 2022

Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...

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This new IWC Portugieser duo are more wearable, more affordable and a lot more green Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser duo are more Oct 3, 2022

This new IWC Portugieser duo are more wearable, more affordable and a lot more green

The IWC Portugieser is a staple in the Schaffhausen watchmaker’s collection, with its signature Arabics, feuille hands and railroad minute track designs originating in 1939, before its reinvention in the early ’90s. Andrew went hands-on with two of its latest iterations – the Portugieser Automatic 40 and Perpetual Calendar 42. Both of these represent their … ContinuedThe post This new IWC Portugieser duo are more wearable, more affordable and a lot more green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille Oct 1, 2022

Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...

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Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Oct 1, 2022

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary

Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...

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New Release: OMEGA Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Deployant
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer DEPLOYANT Oct 1, 2022

New Release: OMEGA Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer

The X-33 series is as much a practical modern Speedmaster as it is an impractical one. While the main arguments against practicality are the usefulness of functions, this point is mostly moot when it comes to luxury timepieces. That said, with high end Quartz timepieces, one has to consistently remind oneself to monitor the battery life, battery conditions and replace batteries in a timely fashion. This comes at a risk of melting batteries, out of sync micro chips and other general issues from neglect. Since most watch collectors would have more than a handful of watches, it is not uncommon for part or most of their collection to go without wear for a long period of time. That's mostly fine for mechanical timepieces, but it does get concerning with a high-end quartz timepiece. Priced at SGD$9350, the new X-33 with its ESA collaboration shares the same price tag as the Moonwatch. It is undoubtedly lesser loved by mechanical watch fans, but does have its own novelty factor. However, considering the perceived value of quartz to mechanical Speedmasters, it might take a real Space fan to truly appreciate the X-33.

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Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2022

Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better?

Any Marvel fan, like me, had a fantastic week upon hearing the news that not only is Deadpool 3 on the way, but that Hugh Jackman is coming out of role-retirement to play Wolverine in the film once more. We all believed that Logan was Jackman’s last outing as the most recognisable member of the … ContinuedThe post Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references Time+Tide
Certina watches speed dating – Sep 30, 2022

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references

Certina are the definition of an underdog brand, with many of their Swatch Group relatives outshining them in marketing and general fanbase adoration. But, with a closer look, Certina have really carved out their own corner of the affordable Swiss market. A melding of slick style and vintage inspirations allows them to weave their way … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum Time+Tide
Longines Sep 30, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum

Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2022

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video

At Time+Tide we love a good ambassador and brand pairing. I even recently prompted the team to participate in a Fantasy Watch Ambassador Draft, matching up celebs who have never been watch ambassadors with various brands. Ambassadors irrefutably draw attention to the brands they represent and, when done properly, create a cultural imprint that ultimately … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand Time+Tide
Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch Sep 27, 2022

Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand

When it comes to making scene-stealing appearances in film, Hamilton has been a fixture on the A-list since the 1930s. No other watchmaker has enjoyed the same presence, recognition or sheer amount of screen time in Hollywood history. Perhaps it’s down to Hamilton’s broad range of models with everything from delicate dress watches to rugged … ContinuedThe post Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2022

Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz?

Watch shopping on a budget can be extremely frustrating, not least because of watch media outlets like ours that routinely describe watches costing well over $1,000 as “affordable” or “attainable”. The truth is that affordability is all relative, and the lower your budget, the more decisions there are to make. Competition has never been tougher … ContinuedThe post Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2022

Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado

Here’s a great example of finding a story in the last place you’d expect. Turns out country superstar Luke Combs isn’t just a down-to-earth singer/songwriter, he also happens to be an unlikely watch nut. Flying in the face of his unpretentious everyman image, the country hitmaker has amassed a rather stellar collection in a relatively … ContinuedThe post Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture Sep 24, 2022

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

A hallmark of Greubel Forsey’s unique brand of watchmaking is its inclined, high-speed tourbillon that completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon by Greubel Forsey (GF) when the brand made its debut in 2004. Almost two decades on, the brand’s quintessential regulator has been installed in something entirely different with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the inclined tourbillon remains, the Architecture is almost entirely new as a watch, comprising a brand-new case design containing a reconstructed movement – that is a tangible realisation of architecture – which together form a cohesive whole. Initial thoughts The Architecture may seem like just another GF sports watch at first sight, so one might dismiss it as being merely a repurposed movement modified to fit into the brand’s bestselling sports watch case. But it is more than that. The inclined tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly novel where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. And it manages to be novel despite high-end sports watches being increasingly common. In short, it’s one of the most notable watches in the GF line-up. Despite the familiar mechanics of the tourbillon, the details of the movement have been comprehensively reimagined to emphasise the brand’s distinctive approach to movement construction, one that prizes three-dimensionality in design matched with impeccable finishing. This incremental improv...

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