Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Rolex Fact Book, An Omega 'Seachero,' And A Minerva-Powered Panerai
Your weekly round-up of watches from around the web.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Acquires Milanese Jeweller Buccellati
Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...
Revolution
Unveiled in Singapore: Patek Philippe Ref. 5303R Grand Complication in Rose Gold
Patek Philippe launched the new Ref. 5303R Grand Complication in Rose Gold at the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203: You Can Have It All
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203 has a bold appearance due to both its generous diameter of 43.5 mm and even more so by the large chronograph pushers and crown. Despite being such a substantial watch, Martin Green was surprised how well it sat and wore on his modestly sized wrist. Here he summarizes a week wearing this versatile all-rounder.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: 'Abstract Season 2' Includes An Awesome Episode About Watches And Typeface Design
The Netflix series is back – and with something special for watch lovers.
Deployant
Must go! and you are invited! Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019
We bring you sneak previews of the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore. And you are invited: From Sept 28 to Oct 13. Details within.
Revolution
On Her Wrist: Audemars Piguet Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
Audemars Piguet welcomes a new ladies watch that tells time differently. Here’s how the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique looks and feels on the wrist.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Speedmasters Galore As Speedy Tuesday Takes NYC
The Platinum 321 was the cherry on top.
Revolution
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero C.01 for ‘Collective’
Zenith’s limited edition Chronomaster El Primero C.01 is an ice-cool rendition of the 1969 original to salve our chronograph fever.
SJX Watches
Seven Watches to See at Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Singapore
Starting this weekend, the theatre inside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort will become home to the epic, 16-day Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, the biggest and longest such event ever staged by the brand. Open from 28 September to 13 October, the enormous showcase of horological artefacts and prowess will take visitors through the company’s history while delving into its many innovations and milestones. Divided into 10 themed rooms, the exhibition will present a comprehensive array of timepieces spanning centuries, including the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch, as well as legendary grand complications like the record-setting Calibre 89. Some 400 timepiece will be on display – all detailed in a hardbound catalogue that will be sold to benefit charity – and here are seven highlights of the show that are worth a second look. The first perpetual calendar wristwatch Although the distinction of inventing the first perpetual calendar watch goes to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who created it in 1762 – and the Patek Philippe Museum owns one such Mudge creation – it was Patek Philippe that built the first ever perpetual calendar in a wristwatch, back in 1925. It was a one-off creation powered by a movement dating to 1898. Initially developed for a women’s pendant watch, the compact calibre only found a home 27 years later inside the landmark wristwatch. Crucially, it was also an instantaneous perpetual calendar, with calendar i...
Deployant
New with live pics: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon 25th Anniversary
The final piece of the Lange 1 25th Anniversary collection is crowned by the Lange 1 Tourbillon. Limited Edition 25 pieces in Anniverary colours. Live pics.
SJX Watches
Industry News: Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case for E-Sports World Championship
The fact that e-sports – essentially competitive computer gaming – is a major phenomenon is hardly new. But now the world’s largest luxury brand is in on the action: Louis Vuitton just announced that it will build the trophy case for the Summoner’s Cup, the huge silver-plated chalice – weighing about 70lbs, or 32kg – that’s given to the winner of the League of Legends World Championship. This marks the first foray of a major luxury house into e-sports, and elevates the League of Legends championship to equal footing with global and historical sporting events like the soccer World Cup. League of Legends is one of the world’s biggest multiplayer online games, with last year’s championship event watched live by almost 100m people. It’s set in a fantasy world, with players controlling a character that, along with teammates, battles the opposing team. The annual championship sees 24 teams from around the world compete for US$1m in prize money – and the giant trophy in a Louis Vuitton trunk. The game joins events like the FIFA World Cup, America’s Cup, Rugby World Cup, and French Open, all of which have had their trophies accompanied by a custom-made Louis Vuitton travel trunk. Like all the other trophy cases, the League of Legends trunk is constructed like a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk, with a wood frame covered in monogram canvas with brass fittings; the only being last year’s FIFA World Cup trunk that was made of polished titanium. Along...
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 13: Felix Baumgartner
On this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, Urwerk’s Felix Baumgartner walks us through the creation of the brand and its extraordinary timepieces.
Revolution
10 Equation of Time Watches
What has remained unchanged in the developing story if watchmaking is the rarity of equation of time watches; here are some notables in this exclusive club.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”
A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 25th year since it first unveiled its modern line-up of wristwatches – led by the iconic Lange 1 – in 1994 with a 10-piece set of special Lange 1 models. The Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” is the third watch of the set, which has been progressively unveiled each month, with the last (presumably a Lange 1 Tourbillon) slated to be announced in October. The Little Lange 1 was first conceived in 1998 as a scaled down version of the Lange 1, with the case shrunk to 36mm. But it was originally a men’s watch, catered to markers like Japan and Singapore that wanted a smaller size. So the earlier versions had plain dials, essentially the same dials as found on the full-size Lange 1, but the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a watch for ladies, so the current versions are only offered with ornate guilloche dials in purple or brown, with the option of a diamond-set bezel. But the Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” returns to the original concept of the model, with all frills removed and once again suitable for men. The standard Little Lange 1 with a brown guilloche dial Modern blue The “25th Anniversary” model of the Little Lange 1 pays tribute to the original design with a standard silver dial. In fact, the dial is identical to first generation Little Lange 1 dials, with the exception of the colours and printed indices; the originals had applied markers. As a recurring theme found in the other commemorative pi...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Talking Watches With Jean-Claude Biver
We sit down with a champion of the Swiss watch industry to learn the stories behind the amazing watches he calls his own.
Quill & Pad
New MIH Gaïa Series I Watch: Surprising In Its Use Of Brutalist Design
The Musée International d’Horlogerie announces a new MIH watch, called into existence to help finance ongoing museum projects as well as raise public awareness for safeguarding horological heritage and to promote the expertise of regional watchmakers. This surprising timepiece takes its direct inspiration from the museum building itself, a product of Brutalist architecture.
Deployant
Short takes: Sinn 104 (Green) A St Sa G Limited Edition
Brand new for BaselWorld 2019, Sinn has designed a limited edition of their classic pilots watch, the new Sinn 104 St Sa A G. Limited to 500 pieces globally, the Sinn 104 St Sa A G is the first 104 A model to feature a non-black dial. The watch is officially sold out and available only on the secondary market.
Revolution
In Conversation with All Blacks Playmaker Beauden Barrett
As the Rugby World Cup kicks off in Japan, All Blacks playmaker Beauden Barrett talks about his journey to sports superstar and Tudor ambassador.
Hodinkee
Editorial: Odell Beckham Jr. And Daniel Wellington Might Have Just Played Us All
This could be the greatest marketing scheme in the history of watches.
Deployant
Review: Panerai PAM00959 Submersible 42mm
We deep dive into the new Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00959 and give you our honest view on the watch, its aesthetics, and real world performance.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Juvenia Arithmo, An Angelus Cal. 215, And A Universal Geneve Compax
Serving up this week's most interesting vintage watches from around the web.
Deployant
Review: Galop d’Hermès
A man’s take at a very feminine watch - the new Galop d’Hermès. A brief discourse on the design and the feelings it evokes on a feminine wrist.
Revolution
What is Equation of Time
As as watch complications go, equation of time is as exotic as it gets; but it’s about the very sun on which all life relies, no reason for estrangement.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Review
Late 2018 saw Breitling update their range with the release of new models. The arrival of Georges Kern as the CEO of Breitling gave the brand a revived outlook. He is focusing on meeting the expectations of the brand’s two primary consumers. The customers who prefer masculine and technology inspired watches and customers that prefer Breitling’s extended history and their vintage designs. The Breitling Premier collection released in 2018 as part of Georges Kern’s product portfolio falls into the revamped vintage category. The outcome is that the brand delivers timepieces that combine purpose, style, quality while keeping to a timeless design. As quoted by Georges Kern, the Premier Collection is “the first modern Breitling collection dedicated to everyday elegance. With outstanding quality and performance, these watches bear our unmistakable brand DNA, but has been created with a focus on style that beautifully complements their purpose“. The Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is certainly a watch that stands true to this statement. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is a modern take on the vintage piece released initially in the 1940’s; the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790. Back when the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790 was released, several countries worldwide were involved in World War II. During this period in history, people would look to the golden age of cinema and other forms of entertainment to escape from the realities of World ...
Quill & Pad
You Are There: A. Lange & Söhne At Hampton Court Classic Car Event, Debuts Little Lange 1 Moon Phase 25th Anniversary
An anniversary version of the A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase arrived at the 2019 Hampton Court classic car event in London and Elizabeth Doerr was there. Here she shares the new watch with us as well as some impressions from the event.
Revolution
Panerai at Harrods
Panerai takes over the Harrods Fine Watch Room with a giant octopus tentacle and the Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00982.
Revolution
Audemars Piguet Taps 17th Century Style in Latest Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
Audemars Piguet has scored another distinctive-looking women’s watches in the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique.
Revolution
“I was born with a pencil in my hand” – Sunflowerman
In the age of mighty megapixel macros, it sometimes takes the inspired flourish of fine art to help us see even precious things in a different light.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs in Singapore
Les Collectionneurs is a small, but special, line of watches offered by Vacheron Constantin. Made up of select vintage watches that have been restored to pristine condition at the factory, Les Collectionneurs is made up of about 75 watches. A selection is available year-round at three Vacheron Constantin boutiques – the two in Geneva and one in New York City – with the balance travelling and making stops at other boutiques around the world. From now till the end of October, a pick of Les Collectionneurs watches, including the exquisite ref. 4261 minute repeater, are in Singapore, over a year since the line-up last came by. As a whole, the 19-piece selection in Singapore presents a rich and interesting overview of Vacheron Constantin’s midcentury history. The brand’s mastery of case and lug styles is well illustrated, from the dramatic, wing-shaped “Batman” Chronometre Royal to the familiar “teardrop” lugs of the ref. 4178 chronograph. Factory refreshed While the models in Les Collectionneurs are diverse, and also acquired from a variety of sources, ranging from private collectors to auctions, they are all selected based on shared criteria: rarity, provenance, and of course, current trends. More importantly, the watches are fully and correctly restored, and delivered with an archive extract as well as a two-year warranty. For the client, that’s essentially the same assurance as when buying a brand new watch. Importantly, the factory approa...