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Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille Oct 1, 2022

Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...

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Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Oct 1, 2022

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary

Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...

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New Release: OMEGA Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Deployant
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer DEPLOYANT Oct 1, 2022

New Release: OMEGA Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer

The X-33 series is as much a practical modern Speedmaster as it is an impractical one. While the main arguments against practicality are the usefulness of functions, this point is mostly moot when it comes to luxury timepieces. That said, with high end Quartz timepieces, one has to consistently remind oneself to monitor the battery life, battery conditions and replace batteries in a timely fashion. This comes at a risk of melting batteries, out of sync micro chips and other general issues from neglect. Since most watch collectors would have more than a handful of watches, it is not uncommon for part or most of their collection to go without wear for a long period of time. That's mostly fine for mechanical timepieces, but it does get concerning with a high-end quartz timepiece. Priced at SGD$9350, the new X-33 with its ESA collaboration shares the same price tag as the Moonwatch. It is undoubtedly lesser loved by mechanical watch fans, but does have its own novelty factor. However, considering the perceived value of quartz to mechanical Speedmasters, it might take a real Space fan to truly appreciate the X-33.

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Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2022

Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better?

Any Marvel fan, like me, had a fantastic week upon hearing the news that not only is Deadpool 3 on the way, but that Hugh Jackman is coming out of role-retirement to play Wolverine in the film once more. We all believed that Logan was Jackman’s last outing as the most recognisable member of the … ContinuedThe post Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references Time+Tide
Certina watches speed dating – Sep 30, 2022

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references

Certina are the definition of an underdog brand, with many of their Swatch Group relatives outshining them in marketing and general fanbase adoration. But, with a closer look, Certina have really carved out their own corner of the affordable Swiss market. A melding of slick style and vintage inspirations allows them to weave their way … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum Time+Tide
Longines Sep 30, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum

Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2022

Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video

At Time+Tide we love a good ambassador and brand pairing. I even recently prompted the team to participate in a Fantasy Watch Ambassador Draft, matching up celebs who have never been watch ambassadors with various brands. Ambassadors irrefutably draw attention to the brands they represent and, when done properly, create a cultural imprint that ultimately … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan recalls his “knee-shaking” watch purchase in British GQ video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand Time+Tide
Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch Sep 27, 2022

Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand

When it comes to making scene-stealing appearances in film, Hamilton has been a fixture on the A-list since the 1930s. No other watchmaker has enjoyed the same presence, recognition or sheer amount of screen time in Hollywood history. Perhaps it’s down to Hamilton’s broad range of models with everything from delicate dress watches to rugged … ContinuedThe post Screen time: How Hamilton became Hollywood’s favourite watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2022

Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz?

Watch shopping on a budget can be extremely frustrating, not least because of watch media outlets like ours that routinely describe watches costing well over $1,000 as “affordable” or “attainable”. The truth is that affordability is all relative, and the lower your budget, the more decisions there are to make. Competition has never been tougher … ContinuedThe post Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2022

Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado

Here’s a great example of finding a story in the last place you’d expect. Turns out country superstar Luke Combs isn’t just a down-to-earth singer/songwriter, he also happens to be an unlikely watch nut. Flying in the face of his unpretentious everyman image, the country hitmaker has amassed a rather stellar collection in a relatively … ContinuedThe post Luke Combs: Down-home country star, high-end watch aficionado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture Sep 24, 2022

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

A hallmark of Greubel Forsey’s unique brand of watchmaking is its inclined, high-speed tourbillon that completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon by Greubel Forsey (GF) when the brand made its debut in 2004. Almost two decades on, the brand’s quintessential regulator has been installed in something entirely different with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the inclined tourbillon remains, the Architecture is almost entirely new as a watch, comprising a brand-new case design containing a reconstructed movement – that is a tangible realisation of architecture – which together form a cohesive whole. Initial thoughts The Architecture may seem like just another GF sports watch at first sight, so one might dismiss it as being merely a repurposed movement modified to fit into the brand’s bestselling sports watch case. But it is more than that. The inclined tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly novel where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. And it manages to be novel despite high-end sports watches being increasingly common. In short, it’s one of the most notable watches in the GF line-up. Despite the familiar mechanics of the tourbillon, the details of the movement have been comprehensively reimagined to emphasise the brand’s distinctive approach to movement construction, one that prizes three-dimensionality in design matched with impeccable finishing. This incremental improv...

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15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 23, 2022

15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+

Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist.  Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168  Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...

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Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Sep 23, 2022

Norqain Introduces Lightweight Carbon Sports Watch

Just three months after it announced Jean-Claude Biver joining its board,  Norqain has unveiled its first product conceived in conjunction with the industry veteran best known for having created Hublot as we know it today, the Wild One. The Wild One is a lightweight sports watch with a case of a carbon composite known as Norteq and a laser-cut, patterned dial. It’s the culmination of a two-year project involving Norqain, synthetic rubber specialist Biwi, and more recently Mr Biver, who “[challenged] the team to innovate; to create a lightweight and shock-resistant timepiece that reflects the brand’s active DNA”. Initial thoughts Often found in expensive and exotic sports watches – although not an expensive material in itself – carbon composite cases are uncommon at the US$5,000 price point, thought they are becoming more common. Alongside models from Oris and Bell & Ross, this is amongst the few offerings in this price segment. And the Wild One has all the features of a bona fide sports watch, including water resistance of 200 m and of course a robust Kenissi movement. That said, the Wild One will also have the downside that is intrinsic to carbon composite – it is essentially a type of plastic and looks the part, resulting in a look that you either like or not. Notably, the liberal use of modern synthetic materials like carbon composite and rubber certainly evokes other products Mr Biver had a hand in creating. And so do the aesthetics; the patterned di...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado… Time+Tide
Norqain Sep 23, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado…

This week, both Luke and I made the journey to Switzerland to get hands-on with some exciting, new releases. With a case shaped like a flying saucer, the Rado DiaStar Original always wore its 1960s heritage very conspicuously indeed. Made from tungsten carbide, the DiaStar ushered in a new era of material experimentation in the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Going wild with Norqain and reimagining a ’60s classic with Rado… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy Time+Tide
Seiko watches you can still Sep 22, 2022

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy

The changing resale values of Seiko watches is a mystery to most people, with some models soaring and diving within the space of a year. One thing that does always drive up prices, however, is once a model gets discontinued, as I recently discovered with my own $200 Seiko Sapphire. It doesn’t even matter if … ContinuedThe post 5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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