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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 17, 2022

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking

Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...

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Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers Repeater Apr 16, 2022

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

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TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Goes Big Apr 11, 2022

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds

TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...

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Editorial: Thoughts on W&W; 2022 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe which reused their Baselworld Apr 8, 2022

Editorial: Thoughts on W&W; 2022

Having just closed its doors, Watches & Wonders 2022 (W&W;) was a success. All the industry executives I spoke with were satisfied with the event and predict it will happen again, barring any major disagreements between the important brands and groups that took part. That is borne out by the numbers as well. According to its organisers, the event had 22,000 individual visitors. Compare that to 2019 when SIHH had 23,000 visitors with about the same number of exhibitors, while Baselworld logged over 80,000 that year but with 20 times the number of exhibitors. All things considered W&W; 2022 had a good turnout. All the exhibiting brands stuck to the standard booth format of the event, except for the independent-minded quartet of Rolex, Tudor, Chopard, and Patek Philippe, which reused their Baselworld booths While turnout was good, business was great. The luxury watch industry is enjoying a boom without parallel – “sold out” and “waiting list” were certainly the defining phrases of the fair. I asked Gisbert Brunner, the veteran watch journalist who started his career before the Quartz Crisis, if he could recall a comparable period in history and he could not, though he said today does evoke the go-go years of the late 1990s. The slightly more drab section of the fair made up of almost identical booths Demand is so strong that assorted brands are being revived and new brands are entering the market. Even Cartier launched the highly complex and ingenious Masse Mysterieu...

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4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris - Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Rado Apr 7, 2022

4 Radical Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris - Reprise

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now red arrives, which has the advantage of a richness of hues. Here Martin Green looks at four new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

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WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control - I must’ve spent $2 million” Time+Tide
Oris ed dealers Apr 7, 2022

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control - I must’ve spent $2 million”

EDITOR’S NOTE: Grim pragmatism ensures the watch world is not big on public candour. Retailers are totally dependent on the watch brands to secure the most lucrative stock. Buyers are dependent on the whims of their authorised dealers in order to buy in-demand models. The watch media meanwhile is still largely dependent on advertising dollars, so … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Hublot show it’s hip to be square with a brand new case shape amongst their 2022 novelties Time+Tide
Hublot show it’s hip Apr 5, 2022

VIDEO: Hublot show it’s hip to be square with a brand new case shape amongst their 2022 novelties

This Watches & Wonders, Hublot delivered another head-turning collection with a new square case shape, a fresh array of coloured ceramic pieces and another collaboration with pop artist Richard Orlinski. Check out this video with Andrew and Jeremy for their hot take on the brand’s 2022 novelties. Square Bang With the Hublot Square Bang, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot show it’s hip to be square with a brand new case shape amongst their 2022 novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

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