Hodinkee
HODINKEE Lookbook: Styling '90s Watches With '90s Fashion And Keeping Things Tubular
There's nothing too baggy or too colorful for this second installment of Lookbook, which aims to bring the world of fashion and horology together.
Results for The 1990 Lange Revival
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Watches Guide
Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina. As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...
Deployant
Reader Submission: Why I call myself a watch nut
This mid-week, we have a reader submission. Michael Ho talks about his collecting journey. Michael is a long time friend of the Chief Editor.
Deployant
IWC presents two new Portugieser models with white and blue dials
IWC introduces new versions of the Portugieser Automatic and the Portugieser Chronograph, both featuring contrasting white and blue dials.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
Time+Tide
Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up
We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In 2022 (As In 2015): Keep Calm And Continue Collecting
It seems that watches are here to stay, at least for the foreseeable future, as a mainstream fashion category. With the good comes the bad, of course, and one characteristic is that it attracts a set of well-off, low-information buyers. GaryG shares his tips for navigating uncertainty in watch collecting in 2022.
Deployant
New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why.
The new release marks Kurono's success once again in textbook execution of a product launch. It begins with a great design, good pricing and finishes with great marketing. Riding on Hajime's popularity, the brand story benefits from the watchmaker's credibility. The design is classic and accessible, with finishing that is a bar above most in its segment. It also benefits from finding a niche in the USD1-4k segment, in a non-mass production vertical. Its limited production possibly limited by assembly and manufacturing capacity works ironically in its favor, to create scarcity.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices?
For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
CHEAP THRILLS: Mr. Jones Watches will brighten your day every time you look at your wrist
Welcome to Cheap Thrills, where we highlight offbeat watches that are pure fun, at prices that won’t sear a hole in your wallet. Today, we’re taking a look at the unique, artsy offerings from Mr. Jones Watches. When you first see one of the quirky timepieces from London’s Mr. Jones Watches, you may be thinking, … ContinuedThe post CHEAP THRILLS: Mr. Jones Watches will brighten your day every time you look at your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
How Do You Achieve Chronometric Perfection?
Wei and Jeremiah geek out over the different approaches taken by two independent watchmakers in their pursuit of chronometric perfection: Montres KF’s Karsten Frässdorf and De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet. Frässdorf’s EI8HT Evolution Meteorite is the latest iteration of the bespoke only EI8HT released in 2020 – a modern interpretation of centuries old inventions. Flageollet’s approach […]
Deployant
New: Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and MkII Reverse Panda chronographs
Hanhart extends their classic pilot chronographs Pioneer Mk I and Pioneer Mk II with a new dial variation in the form of the Reverse Panda.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello
Zach has just departed on a well-deserved holiday and is currently basking on a sun-lounger wearing a Hawaiian shirt loud enough to make your ears ring. So it’s up to me to pick up the Wind Down slack and bring you a few bulletins from the watch world this week. First up, take a minute … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Kudoke Real Skeleton Stars In ‘Last Looks’ Feature Film Alongside Charlie Hunnam And Mel Gibson
A star is born! In the movie 'Last Looks' Mel Gibson asks, “Have you seen what this man wears? It costs more than the house I grew up in.” The reply: “It’s a Kudoke Skeleton; they only make 35 a year.”
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G
Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: That Time We Broke Down Every Rolex GMT-Master Ever
With three great GMT-Masters live in the Shop, we're flashing back to an iconic Reference Points to put them in context.
Time+Tide
Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon
It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Fratello's New Collab Is A Colorful Chronograph With Louis Moinet
Say hello to the new Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph.
Time+Tide
Ben Affleck’s watch collection is choc-full of surprises
Rolex, AP, Richard Mille. If you were taking a multiple choice test on which watch a celebrity was wearing, the three aforementioned brands would be your safest bets. That’s because celebrities are often fairly safe with their wristwear. Even if they stretch beyond the common three, whatever other brands we catch on their wrists tend … ContinuedThe post Ben Affleck’s watch collection is choc-full of surprises appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Reservoir Goes Audiophile With Sonomaster Chronograph
When you talk with watch enthusiasts, the conversation often branches out to other areas of passion; one of these is inevitably sound systems. Martin Green doesn't have firm statistics, but there are a considerable number of audiophiles among watch collectors. And like him, they will be probably be smitten with the Sonomaster Chronograph made by Reservoir.
Time+Tide
This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever
“If it’s not measurable then it’s not manageable.” It’s a saying beloved of accountants, number crunchers and other po-faced types, often looking to protect you from your, let’s face it, hare-brained ideas based on some purported “gut feel”. But this would seem to be the personal manifesto of Andre Nader. The data analyst is a … ContinuedThe post This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Scurfa Watches Review: Wish I Tried This Watch Brand Sooner
For under $300 is Scurfa Watches the full package? Get all the facts, details, and unique photos you need to make the best choice right here!
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches – Reprise
In 2021, Patek Philippe drew attention to the decorative arts that help make its watches so exceptional, further staking claim in the preservation of many of the traditional skills and techniques that date to the manufacture’s roots. The manufacture introduced six versions of familiar watch models that highlight Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts.
Quill & Pad
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton 39mm: Packing A Smaller Punch (In Size Only)
Martin Green thinks that the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton 39mm is sized perfectly. And to see the skeletonized movement and (nearly) all its parts, the way they interact and work, is captivating.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Brad Pitt Fights His Way Across Japan's Railways Wearing A Platinum Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-edition In 'Bullet Train'
This hefty, vintage-inspired platinum watch comes in handy in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #18 “Movement Manufacturers”
I am not going to lie, this crossword is not for the faint of heart. If this was a FIFA video game, the difficulty would be set to legendary. That being said, do your best to complete the below – it will be well worth the ride.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #18 “Movement Manufacturers” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Black
We take a deep dive close look at the Ulysse Nardin Diver X. With detailed analysis, live photographs, competitive comparisons and prices.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Star And Dazzling Star: Ingenious, Yet Romantic, Complications
Astronomical phenomena lie at the very origin of time measurement. However, these celestial events are not only practical, they can also be very romantic as Jaeger-LeCoultre demonstrates with its latest beauties: Rendez-Vous Star and Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star.
Time+Tide
Four watches that look great on their own, but are hard to pair with an outfit
There are pretty watches that go with everything, and watches so ugly that they go with nothing. But, how about the watches that are pretty, yet present the nigh impossible challenge of pairing them with an outfit that matches their aesthetic? Inspired by my time with the first entrant on this list, I realised that … ContinuedThe post Four watches that look great on their own, but are hard to pair with an outfit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
An Early Roger Dubuis Perpetual Calendar That Deserves Your Attention
Wei and Jeremiah discuss Roger Dubuis, the man and his watches, and how they are a clear reflection of his incredible watchmaking journey. The latest offering by Revolution Curates is a Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar that rightfully deserves the attention of collectors for the significance of its place in watchmaking history and technical […]