Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus in Machina with Editorial Commentary
Roger Dubuis unveils a minute repeater with flying tourbillon - a piece unique with the full RD DNA - the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus in Machina.
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Deployant
Roger Dubuis unveils a minute repeater with flying tourbillon - a piece unique with the full RD DNA - the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus in Machina.
SJX Watches
Having just announced its full-year results while predicting a gloomy outlook for the business, Richemont has successful placed €2 billion of bonds, with coupon ranging from 0.75% for the 8-year note to 1.625% for the 20-year note. The bond placement boosts the Swiss luxury group’s robust balance sheet, which had a gross cash position of €6.34 billion and a net cash position of €2.40 billion at the end of March 31, 2020. The notes received an A+ rating from credit ratings agency S&P;, which also lowered its outlook for Richemont from stable to negative, “citing the possibility of a downgrade if the coronavirus pandemic causes the company’s credit metrics to worsen”. Widely regarded as a savvy investor who transformed his family’s tobaccco-and-banking empire into an even larger one focused the “hard” luxury of watches and jewellery, Mr Rupert’s belief in the severity of the pandemic-induced recession is obvious. That, in turn, does not bode well for the luxury watch business. Richemont’s biggest earner is Cartier – the jewellery division is half the group’s turnover – it also owns a host of luxury watch brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Panerai, which make up about 20% of its sales. During Richemont’s earning conference call on May 15, Mr Rupert explained the bond issue: “We have always believed in protecting our balance sheet… For years, a lot of investment banks questioned us about that it’s a lazy balance sheet. But h...
Quill & Pad
Creating a successful ladies' watch is not easy, but Martin Green thinks that Tutima has done just that with the Saxon One Lady featuring a distinctive cushion-shaped case and intricate design details.
Hodinkee
Get the full scoop on that jaw-dropping Paul Newman Daytona (and a whole lot more).
SJX Watches
Postponed from its usual mid-May date to end-June, Phillips’ spring watch auction is Geneva is nonetheless the full works, with 214 lots on offer, including the four spectacular Patek Philippe watches from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver, including a ref. 1518 “pink on pink” and a second-series ref. 2499. Also amongst the offerings at the Geneva Watch Auction XI are two important examples of contemporary watchmaking – a pair of F.P. Journe souscription watches consigned by the original owner – Lorenz Bäumer. A jeweller whose workshop is on the storied Place Vendome in Paris, Mr Bäumer is perhaps best known for crafted the tiara worn by Charlene Wittstock when the former Olympic swimmer wed Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2011. But Mr Bäumer is also a watch aficionado who met François-Paul Journe via a mutual friend. Mr Journe had then decided to launch his own brand by taking inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet, who had offered clients the opportunity to purchase a newly-developed, fairly-affordable watch by first putting down a deposit – thus “subscribing” to the offer. The jeweller became a “subscriber” and paid the down payment for a Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite “Souscription”, subsequently receiving the watch numbered “14/20” on the dial. A year later, Mr Bäumer was approached once again to “subscribe” for the new Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”. He took up the offer, and again got the watch number “14”....
Two Broke Watch Snobs
It's been a rough week and the guys cut loose for another round of unscripted banter. Plus, you'll get to hear about a monumental TBWS milestone - that Kaz & Mike completely forgot to update you on.
Revolution
In episode three of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have our latest US editor (@steviewatches) speaking with us today. He tells us about his Gerald Genta Automatic Jump Hour Retrograde Mickey Mouse watch and other unexpected pieces in his collection.
Time+Tide
The watch industry has a remarkable way of pulling together when times are tough. We see it every other year with the Only Watch auction raising money for muscular dystrophy. Jack Nicklaus auctioned his Rolex Day-Date last year to raise money for unwell children, and John Goldberger did the same with his unique white gold … ContinuedThe post Horological Society of New York responds to Coronavirus pandemic with Working Watchmakers Grant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Claude Greisler, co-founder and technical director of Armin Strom, talks resonance for the layperson with watch collector Michael J. Biercuk, professor of quantum physics and technology at the University of Sydney and CEO and founder of Q-CTRL.
Quill & Pad
Fibratech is the latest example of Panerai creating ever sturdier and more durable watches for those who seek adventure. Joshua Munchow examines the brand-new Luminor Marina Fibratech and delves into the cool technology of the new material. You might be surprised where it comes from!
Deployant
Zenith revamps the Elite collection of unisex watches. The classic line now comes with a new dial and case design. The Elite Moonphase is available in two sizes, 36 mm and 40.5 mm, understandably the equivalent of two sizes for ladies and men.
Time+Tide
“Thanks for the emails Andrew,” the email from Steve begins. “All watch info is appreciated in these boring times.” And these boring times are certainly reaching peak levels for poor Steve. The email continues: “I recently spent a couple of days spreadsheeting my watches. I thought there might be a template on the net somewhere … ContinuedThe post Steve wants help with a spreadsheet template for his watch collection, and because it’s a pandemic, we’re doing a call out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Richemont’s fourth quarter was one of the victims of the COVID-19 pandemic, pulling down its results for the full year to end-March 2020. Even though the full year’s tally was not down substantially, Richemont chairman Johann Rupert was gloomy in his prediction for the coming year. China, the first country to recover from the pandemic, has “apparently returned to ‘business as usual’ remarkably quickly” and Richemont stores there are enjoying now “strong demand”. But because everywhere else is only partway through the crisis, the plain-speaking South African tycoon raised the possibility of “12, 24 or 36 months of grave economic consequences”, while halving the annual dividend to €1 a share to conserve cash. Johann Rupert. Photo – Richemont The Swiss luxury conglomerate, which owns brands like Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, enjoyed “good sales performance” until the fourth quarter, with its jewellery brands and online retail performing better than other divisions, including watchmaking, which has lagged for several quarters. At actual exchange rates, annual sales eked out a 2% rise to €14.2 billion, with most regions growing slightly, save for a 5% decline in Asia Pacific. Net profit fell 34%, excluding a one-off, non-cash gain due to a share revaluation the year prior. The declines were largely due to the fourth quarter, where Richemont took a massive hit. In the last quarter, sales fell by 18% globally, with Hong Kong crashing 67%. The group end...
Deployant
Second of our series exploring handmade bicycles, featuring the Zullo Maxsilanus, an artisanal bicycle made by Tiziano Zullo in Verona, Italy.
Time+Tide
Alec Baldwin is an American actor and comedian, best known for his roles in television and film. Baldwin starred as Jack Donaghy in the sitcom 30 Rock, for which he won two Emmys and three Golden Globes. He has starred in notable films, including Glengarry Glen Ross, Mission: Impossible - Rogue Nation, The Departed and The … ContinuedThe post Alec Baldwin’s watch collection reveals a man of taste and versatility, inc. Bulgari, Breitling, Bremont and IWC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
HYT CEO Grégory Dourde makes a video, with glimpses into the philosophy of the fluidity of time. Here is the video in full.
Hodinkee
Our two retailers in this edition feature both the established favorites and some lesser-known brands.
Hodinkee
The colorful new editions will be joined by complementary faces.
Revolution
Consolidated into one single e-commerce platform, the UK online store combines the very best of Seiko under one roof.
Deployant
Audemars Piguet adds a new collection of four new Royal Oak Selfwinding model in 34mm for the smaller wrists, with our Editorial Commentary, specs & price.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In my mind, this is the best, no-nonsense quartz dive watch you can buy today and the easiest gateway to the wide world of British military watch history.
Time+Tide
Coronavirus has surpassed all previous crisis’ in terms of its negative impact on the Swiss watchmaking industry, with a 25 per cent downturn anticipated for 2020, according to a report by Bank Vontobel. This is worse than the Quartz Crisis, which saw a 15 per cent decline, and the 22 per cent downturn in the … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus projected to wipe out 60 ‘Swiss Made’ watch brands, while downturn surpasses Quartz Crisis and GFC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Silicon Valley star is a watch guy.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design. In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal. For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a m...
Deployant
This is a review of the Seiko 5 Sports SRPD67K1 after about 3 months of ownership, and worn almost as a daily beater watch.
Revolution
The new sizing on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak fits slim wrists well and comes with a self-winding movement for the first time.
WatchAdvice
Earlier this year, during LVMH watch week in Dubai, Zenith released a variety of watches for both ladies and gents. We already looked at the Elite Classic range here. One of the pieces that stood out from this relase was the El Primero A384 Revival watch. The A384 Revival was originally released in 2019, however this year, they have gone back to a full retro look for the watch by releasing it with the exclusive bracelet that the original El Primero A384 made its appearance in. In 1969 when the A384 was being designed, Zenith had to come up with a new case layout in order to be able to fit the el primero movement. The Zenith A384, alongside A385 and A386, were the first watches to feature the El Primero movement. Along with new case design, the Swiss watch manufacturer sought to go for a new bracelet design too. This is where the famed Gay Frères specialist company came in, to not only create a bracelet that was unique at the time, but also perfectly compliment the El Primero A384’s avant-garde design. What was created by Gay Frères was an open design bracelet, termed “ladder” bracelet. The bracelet was not only comfortable to wear but also gave it a dressier look compared to the conventional steel and sports bracelets at the time. Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet With the return of this bracelet on the El Primero A384 Revival watch, it goes back to the origins of the timepiece and completing the once retro look it had. The design of the Zenith El Primero...
Hodinkee
Mom & Pop shops are the unsung heroes of the American economy.
Deployant
TAG Heuer releases a special edition of the Monaco to reaffirm the relationsip with the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique with a new dial livery.
Revolution
Silas Walton, founder of A Collected Man tells Revolution all about what it takes to craft one of the most successful and well curated specialty wristwatch entities in the industry, both from a selection of watches available to buy to the depth of storytelling perspective.
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