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The Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux,” and, Just for Fun, Some of Our Favorites from the Wristmons Collection Worn & Wound
Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux,” Jul 30, 2024

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux,” and, Just for Fun, Some of Our Favorites from the Wristmons Collection

When you first see one of Konstantin Chaykin’s “Wristmons” pieces, it’s hard not to think it’s an elaborate prank. The imaginative and mechanically complex character watches do not have the aesthetic trappings of the serious horology that is at work under (and above) the hood. They look like children’s toys, with familiar “faces” often borrowed from popular culture or our shared iconography. A truism in the watch world is that if you see someone wearing a Joker or any other Wristmons piece out in the wild, go talk to them. The conversation is certain to be more interesting than with the guy wearing the vintage Sub.  The latest entry in the Wristmons lineup is the Joker “Fiat Lux,” a limited run of just 38 pieces made for the Chinese market. This one is only barely recognizable as a Joker, though, as the dial has been heavily skeletonized, allowing the wearer to see the mechanism that allows for the watch’s unique display. The idea of “skeletonizing” a dial that depicts a face has a certain meta quality to it, and is probably worthy of an analysis all on its own, especially once you realize that the eyes in this edition have been hollowed out. For now, though, we can simply admire the Joker layout as if it’s been given an x-ray.  The skeletonization itself has been well executed and draws the eye across the dial in such a way that legibility isn’t really a problem, and you kind of naturally admire the craft inherent in the dial work. The cent...

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2024

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg

Okay, I admit it. I don’t really care about my watches’ accuracy. Don’t get me wrong, I want my watches to be relatively accurate - and I certainly want them to be in spec - but I want the watchmakers to care about that so I don’t have to. At the end of the day, I just can’t bring myself to care all that much about a couple of seconds over the course of a day. After all, what’s 10 or 15 seconds held up against 86,400? The world doesn’t really operate on that sort of accuracy, and my day-to-day writing about watches certainly doesn’t demand it. That said, while I may not care all that much about accuracy in the abstract, I love it when brands pursue accuracy. I’m a sucker for a clever escapement, a new technique, or a wild swing, and beyond all that, I love the creativity that the pursuit of accuracy tends to elicit. So when Horage announced the Revolution 3 Microreg last week, it certainly caught my eye. The standout feature of the Horage Revolution 3 Microreg, which was made using technology developed by Swiss engineering firm Miniswys, is the ability to regulate the watch at home using a miniature electric motor connected to the escapement’s regulator and controlled by an external dock which allows adjustment in increments as low as 0.1 seconds. Pair this with what is already a COSC-certified movement and what you get is the potential for a remarkably accurate watch that bridges the gap between, as Horage puts it, regulation and reality. One of t...

Time Through the Ages, Part 4: The Waltham Watch Company - A Seismic Disruption in Time Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 4: The Waltham Watch Company - A Seismic Disruption in Time

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this fourth and final installment of the series, Andrew examines the dramatic leap forward in watch manufacturing made by the Waltham Watch Company, and how the Swiss watch industry responded. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  “Had the Philadelphia Exhibition taken place five years later, we should have been totally annihilated without knowing whence or how we received the terrible blow. We have believed ourselves masters of the situation, when we really have been on a volcano.”  Edouard Favre-Perret, Swiss Member of the International Jury Have you ever heard of Jacques David or Theophilus (Théodore) Gribi? How about Ambrose Webster? They were the key protagonists in the fascinating story of the rise of American watchmaking and subsequent potential demise of Swiss watchmaking. It’s a story of industrial espionage and spying that changed the course of the global watch industry forever. The Centennial Exhibition of 1876 took place in Philadelphia and was the first official World’s Fair to be held in the United States, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia. Almost 10 million visitors attended the exposition, with 37 countries participating. Centennial Exhibiti...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - Jul 30, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition

At last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva, TAG Heuer introduced its new Carrera Chronograph collection with the so-called “Glassbox” design. We are big fans of the regular 39mm version in its blue and black/silver configurations. Maybe that’s why we didn’t dedicate too much attention to the 42mm blue-dial tourbillon version that came […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph - A European Limited Edition to read the full article.

Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 30, 2024

Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands

Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...

A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 29, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday

Today, Walter Lange would’ve turned 100 years old. It’s a special day for A. Lange & Söhne because Walter Lange, who passed away at the respectable age of 92 in 2017, revived the brand his great-grandfather founded in 1845. In December 1990, a year after the Berlin Wall fell, Lange re-established his great-grandfather’s legacy under […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday to read the full article.

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Jul 29, 2024

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ

It’s the ultimate question: Which watch should I take with me when traveling? To see how the Zenith Chronomaster Sport held up, we took it to New Zealand on an adventure to answer this question! One of the things that goes through my mind when looking at a potential watch purchase is, is it good for travel? Now I’m not talking about watches with GMT functions or watches that are specifically designed to track multiple time zones like a Worldtimer etc. These are great, but not essential. I’ve traveled lots without a specific watch like a GMT. What I’m more interested in is this: Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places and seeing new sights, and the last one that goes through my mind (a side effect of doing what I do) how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? Ok, the last one is a little more specific to me, but you get my gist! Now I’m a bit of a sucker for a green dial. I use to gravitate towards blue, but these days, I’m liking watches with more colour, or something that isn’t your standard blue or black. Don’t get me wrong, both of these colours are great, but if you have a few watches that are blue or black, then you kind of want to venture out of this box a little. With this in mind, I’ve managed to get my hands on the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green that was re...

In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Jul 29, 2024

In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex refreshed the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller collection with two new models in 18k gold matched with a Jubilee bracelet, giving a new face to its most complicated watch. The Sky-Dweller was the brand’s most complex wristwatch at introduction in 2012 and remains so a dozen years later. Despite its technical sophistication, the Sky-Dweller is very much a Rolex, incorporating innovations geared towards practicality and functionality. Combining the Saros annual calendar with a second time zone in 24-hour format, the cal. 9002 of the Sky-Dweller boasts several patents, marking out the Sky-Dweller as one of the most innovative Rolex watches of the 21st century. Rolex’s take on the annual calendar in particular is perhaps the most unique in contemporary watchmaking. It relies on clever mathematics and gear mechanics, while doing away with traditional levers or cams, in order to maximise reliability and useability. The second-generation Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller movement, the cal. 9002 that succeeded the cal. 9001 Notably, Rolex managed to incorporate all of the complications of the Sky-Dweller into a design that preserves the classic Oyster silhouette thanks to the innovative Ring Command system. The case has no pushers or buttons, but instead relies on the bezel as a clever function selector mechanism that transforms the signature fluted bezel into a functional device while eliminating the need for an additional crown or pushers. The Oyster ...

Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap Fratello
Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - Jul 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap

Some brands excel at collaborations, elevating everyday watches to grail status, no matter how primary their starting point is. Casio sets a great example with its G-Shock range and the inherently cool canvas of the OG “Square.” Its shape is packed with potential, and the new Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 shows a real sense of eco-purpose. […] Visit Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap to read the full article.

Omega Celebrates the Start of the Olympic Games with the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition Worn & Wound
Omega Celebrates Jul 26, 2024

Omega Celebrates the Start of the Olympic Games with the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition

I think it might surprise some longtime readers and friends to learn that I kind of love the Olympics. I’m not the biggest sports fan and generally scoff at watches tied to athlete ambassadors and endorsements, but the sheer spectacle of the Olympics gets me everytime. I won’t sit here and say that I’m some great expert on competitive swimming or track and field, but without fail, every four years, I get drawn into the inherent drama of it all. So I’m looking forward to this weekend, when the Paris games begin in earnest, and following along as much of it as I can. And while it’s not the reason I’ll be tuning in, I’m mentally prepared for an absolute onslaught of Omega advertising and branding to blanket the telecast.  Omega, of course, is the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games, and they have a long history of producing watches to mark the occasion. They began counting down to Paris one year ago with a nicely refined white dialed Seamaster featuring a gold bezel. Gold, unsurprisingly, factors heavily throughout Omega’s run of Olympic watches. For mark the start of this year’s Games, Omega has unveiled a watch that, fittingly, makes use of all of the metals associated with the Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold edition.  Omega fans will immediately recognize this watch as a new version of the fan favorite CK 859, a limited production piece in a throwback 1930s style that is the antithesis of the often oversized sports watches Omega has special...

Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - From Furlan Marri, Chopard, Parmigiani, And More Fratello
Furlan Marri Chopard Parmigiani Jul 26, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - From Furlan Marri, Chopard, Parmigiani, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our quest for the best watches released in the first half of 2024. It’s all about dress watches for this new list. Have the first six months of the year been great for people looking to add a new dress piece to their collections? We take a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - From Furlan Marri, Chopard, Parmigiani, And More to read the full article.

Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World Fratello
Jul 26, 2024

Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World

Sometimes when we write articles at Fratello, we know exactly how they will land with our readers. Other times, we try something to see whether it strikes a chord. This is an example of the latter type of article. I consider myself lucky to have fallen in love with a hobby twice when so many […] Visit Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World to read the full article.

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....

It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 Fratello
Montblanc Iced Sea Jul 25, 2024

It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

The new Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 might be the perfect watch for spec-loving divers. Let’s look at the data, the numbers, and the cold, hard facts. Montblanc’s latest dive watch, the flagship of the newly formed Iced Sea collection, has a 43 × 19.4mm case containing no oxygen and is water resistant […] Visit It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 to read the full article.

Unimatic Introduces a Collection of Military Spec Tool Watches Worn & Wound
Unimatic Introduces Jul 24, 2024

Unimatic Introduces a Collection of Military Spec Tool Watches

Unimatic, the Italian watch brand known for bringing a contemporary design language to a variety of classic sports watch tropes, has just unveiled their new permanent collection, the Toolwatch Series. The new watches, at a glance, might not look all the different from previous Unimatic releases. This is not a rethinking of the brand’s aesthetic, and they are not trying anything completely revolutionary here. But the Toolwatch Series feels like a logical extension of what Unimatic has been up to since their founding all the way back in 2015, and could provide a new foothold for curious collectors to enter into the brand’s ecosystem.  Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Unimatic’s new watches are tailored to enthusiasts with “active, adventurous, lifestyles” who need their watch to keep up with the unusual demands of their lives. This is something we brands tell us all the time, and honestly I’ve gotten to the point where I tend to just glaze over any mention of “adventure” in a press release for a new watch. But it appears that Unimatic is putting their proverbial money where their watch is. Each watch in the Toolwatch Series meets what’s known as the MIL-STD-810 standard, which is a benchmark set by the United States military to guarantee the durability of items like watches that servicemembers rely on.  What does that mean for the Toolwatch Series? It means that each watch goes through a battery of tests to ensure its robustness. Specifically, U...

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Tudor s success Jul 24, 2024

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches

Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dumont Minimalism Jul 24, 2024

The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On)

The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case Fratello
Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case

Designing anything, including watches, is an iterative process. You move from one design to another, and every time, you get a bit closer to what you had in mind. I’m not a designer, but Emmanuel Dietrich, who founded the Dietrich brand in 2010, is. When you look at his previous designs, you can see that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case to read the full article.

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds) Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features Jul 22, 2024

The New Ulysse Nardin Atoll Diver Features an Uncommon and Beautiful Stone Dial (And a Whole Bunch of Diamonds)

At Worn & Wound, we are not typically drawn to watches with extravagant diamond bezels and dials. However, we have stumbled upon something truly unique and special that we are confident will pique your interest, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll in 39mm. This watch not only stands out due to its distinct design but also features a dial made of chrysocolla stone, a material rarely used in the world of watchmaking. In fact, the only other commercially produced watch we found that used this material was a discontinued Shinola Birdy lady’s quartz watch. An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef, island, or chain of islands around a body of water called a lagoon. Many people associate the word “lagoon” with images of Gilligan’s Island-a small beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. That is the inspiration for this watch. Each dial is crafted from hand-cut natural stone, ensuring each one is unique, so the paradise depicted by its breathtaking mix of blue, turquoise, brown, and black is exclusively yours. So, what is chrysocolla? Chrysocolla is a mineral that belongs to the silicate mineral group. It is often found in association with other secondary copper minerals such as malachite, azurite, and cuprite. Chrysocolla is known for its vibrant blue-green or green color, reminiscent of turquoise. It is named after the Greek words “chrysos,” meaning gold, and “kolla,” meaning glue, due to its historical use as a flux in soldering gold. It is not considered a rare gemston...

The Roundup: A Watch That Smiles Back, A Diver That Will Have You Spinning, and More Worn & Wound
Louis Erard comes Jul 21, 2024

The Roundup: A Watch That Smiles Back, A Diver That Will Have You Spinning, and More

As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. As a watch enthusiast, how frequently do you gaze at your watch and smile? What if your timepiece could return the gesture? From the renowned interior architect Alain Silberstein, in collaboration with Louis Erard, comes the Smile-Day, a watch that quite literally smiles back. Instead of showing the days of the week, this unique piece depicts various smiley faces along with the date. The post The Roundup: A Watch That Smiles Back, A Diver That Will Have You Spinning, and More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think Fratello
Casio F-91W - Jul 21, 2024

Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think

I think it’s fair to say that the Casio F-91W is a watch with legendary status. In this feature, I look at why such status is well deserved. The Casio F-91W has served well on the wrists of people around the globe. In my travels as a journalist, I have regularly seen the F-91W on […] Visit Spending Time With The Casio F-91W - A Watch Far More Rugged Than We May Think to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Rare Polerouter, an Accutron Collector Set, and a Minty Vintage Hamilton Worn & Wound
Hamilton eBay Finds Jul 19, 2024

eBay Finds: A Rare Polerouter, an Accutron Collector Set, and a Minty Vintage Hamilton

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nesr Ferrotex  First up this week we have a really cool one that I have never seen, never even heard of! This vintage Nesr Ferrotex has a fantastic look, with a classic Oyster style case with the Thunderbird style grooved bezel. This is often referred to as “engine turned,” but that never seemed very accurate to me. The white(ish) dial is clean, featuring faceted arrowhead markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 with slim stick markers elsewhere. No date, or anything else to mess up the beautiful symmetry. The steel case measures 35mm and looks sharp and unpolished. The caseback has a gold medallion (like King Seiko or Omega Constellation, etc) with an eagle on it. The seller states that Nesr means eagle in Arabic, which would make sense. Nice clean manual wind movement that runs well per the seller. Great, unique piece for any collection! View auction here Vintage Timex “UFO” Here’s an interesting one, a vintage Timex Electronic “UFO”. The wide disc-shaped case measures 42mm in diameter and is chrome plated. It shows minimal wear and definitely still looks good. The two-tone gold bullseye style dial is clean, with different textures on the inner/outer dial and the bullseye ring. Thi...

Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture Worn & Wound
Omega 6B/159 More importantly than Jul 19, 2024

Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture

Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so.  The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 19, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”

Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? Fratello
Tudor ? - Jul 18, 2024

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.

Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Expected but not quite Jul 18, 2024

Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer

Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch. Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024. From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected. Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chie...

Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T Worn & Wound
Doxa Releases their Second Clive Jul 17, 2024

Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T

Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo Fratello
Venezianico Nereide Aureo Jul 17, 2024

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo

The Venezianico Nereide Aureo is the latest release from the small Venetian brand. It’s also a dive watch with interesting materials and processes that come together at an affordable price. Let’s check out this intriguingly colored watch. We’ve looked at several Venezianico watches on Fratello and have been impressed with them. Today’s Nereide Aureo uses […] Visit Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo to read the full article.