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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Openwork Tourbillon Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Openwork Tourbillon DEPLOYANT Jan 3, 2012

Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Openwork Tourbillon

Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon One of the watches which caught my jaded eyes last year (2011) was the Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon with open work dial. Beautifully finished, fully in-house production (movement, dial, case, finishing all done within the company) Parmigiani is an amazing company. Started by watchmaking genius Michel Parmigiani some 30 years agoRead More

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical? WatchAdvice
Zenith s Chronomaster Revival A384 Oct 19, 2026

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?

Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Fratello
Tudor Royal Vs Rolex Oysterquartz Oct 18, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.

Gear Guide: Car Camping Essentials Worn & Wound
Sep 28, 2026

Gear Guide: Car Camping Essentials

Summer camping seems to get all the attention, but camping in the fall is the real MVP: changing leaves, cozy flannels, and way fewer mosquitoes buzzing in your ear. Two years ago I made the switch from sleeping in tents to spending the night in my Bronco Sport and I’ve learned a thing or two about best practices. Here’s my super condensed guide to enjoying the great outdoors from within your vehicle’s four doors. Mattress fitted to your vehicle Like almost everything in the gear world, quality can come with a steep price tag. The good news is there’s a wide array of options at different price points when it comes to a mattress to use in your car camping set-up. This option from deepsleep is spec’ed to my car and is frequently lauded by fellow owners in my Bronco forums. I didn’t want to drop $200 until I was sure car camping was for me, and went with a $70 option off Amazon. Amazon has a feature that will let you know if a piece of equipment is approved for your make and model, and it was accurate in my case – though I still measured the back of my car to check.  Car lantern Nature can be dark… like, really dark. Flashlights are fine when you’re on the move, but for camping in my car I definitely prefer a lantern. It casts a wider glow and stands on its own hands-free. Some people hang strings of lights from their trunks and I’m so here for the Pinterest aesthetic. It’s just not super practical for the way I do things. A no-frills Coleman lantern ce...

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sep 22, 2026

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown

Mechanical movements attract most of the technical interest in watchmaking, but considerable engineering also goes into keeping them dry. For an everyday watch, the waterproof construction of the case and crown is central to its reliability, yet the way these components keep water out is often misunderstood. Screw-down crowns and case backs are widely regarded as the best way to seal a watch. But the choice is not always straightforward. On a hand-wound watch, for example, a screw-down crown must be unscrewed and tightened regularly, adding an extra step to winding and potentially compromising the threads. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, on the other hand, features a conventional crown and is rated to 50 m. Even so, some owners remain wary of exposing it to more than an occasional splash. So the question is, how much protection can a conventional crown provide, and what does a screw-down construction add? To understand the distinction, we take a closer look at the crown, its tube and the gaskets that form the seal. As a disclaimer, this discussion concerns modern watches with seals in good condition; vintage watches and those long overdue for service should be checked for waterproofness prior to contact with water. A common misconception The actual waterproofness of a joint relates to the uniformity of the seal pressure. In this case, “waterproofness” is used broadly as the ability of a mechanical joint to keep water from seeping in under normal functioning conditions...

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 Arabic Blue Sep 21, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue' Limited Edition

What We Know It's likely that very few people, save the Grand Seiko diehards, remember the first manually winding 9S caliber in the GS collection. A distinction within a distinction, it did set the stage for a number of deeply loved models and the eventual development of one of my favorite movements, the relatively recent 9SA4. But back in 2001, Grand Seiko launched the SBGW003, a relatively simple-looking watch with an opaline white dial and distinctive applied gold numerals. It might seem a bit anachronistic, but that's why Grand Seiko is honoring the 25th anniversary with a very modernized homage, the Elegance SBGW325 'Arabic Blue.' To be fair, the new SBGW325 looks so much newer because the original was also a tribute to the past, furthering the aesthetic divide. Now, the watch features a deep navy blue dial inspired by Japan's indigo craft heritage, with silver-toned hands and indices, including the distinctive applied numerals to honor the original. There's also a touch of gold, a reference to the original indices, I'd imagine, with the central seconds hand and GS logo. The serif on the numerals seems to have been softened a bit as well. The Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case measures 37.3mm by 11.7mm with a 44.3mm lug-to-lug, capped by a box-style crystal. The watch is limited to a 30m water resistance but comes with a display caseback through which you can see the 9S64 caliber movement. That gives a 72-hour power reserve running at 4Hz. But overall, the watch ma...

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
IWC Ingenieur Celebrates Sep 16, 2026

The IWC Ingenieur Celebrates a Big Anniversary

The watch industry, as we know, never misses an opportunity to celebrate a milestone. This week marks 50 years of Gerald Genta’s Ingenieur, a watch that has existed in a variety of forms over the years, but was relaunched a few years ago in a widely celebrated new guise that feels almost spiritually connected to the original. The new limited editions released this week by IWC are available in both the standard 40mm size and the newer, more compact 35mm case, both with dials that play up the design’s inherent starkness.  The Ingenieur’s dial is most commonly associated with a distinctive grid pattern, but these LEs depart from that playbook for a dial that feels very metallic with vertical brushing and silver plating. It’s a reference, according to IWC, to an obscure Ingenieur reference from the original launch in 1976.  I’m struck by how simple and muted this dial is for a limited edition. We’ve been trained, I think, to think that special releases and limited editions should be louder than this, and recontextualize a watch into something that couldn’t exist in the main collection. This dial execution is about as simple as it gets, and while it presents quite differently than the mainline Ingenieurs with patterned dials, it wouldn’t be a challenge at all to imagine this watch as a permanent part of the IWC collection. It’s a clear play to history, which of course is fitting and expected for a 50th anniversary watch. It’s nice but maybe not particularl...

Introducing: The Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On, Live Pics, Technical Brief, Competition, & Personal Thoughts] Hodinkee
Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On Live Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: The Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On, Live Pics, Technical Brief, Competition, & Personal Thoughts]

It's a watch that has been long-awaited: Rolex has just announced the new Perpetual Padellone—a very classic and technically impressive instantaneous annual calendar with moonphase. The new release comes three years after the launch of the 1908, which replaced the discontinued Cellini collection and introduced the Perpetual line. Now, that new collection goes in a more complicated direction. James Stacey is in Milan for the launch—and even got to see the watch in advance—so read on for a section later in this article featuring his hands-on impressions. The new 2026 Rolex Perpetual Padellone.  Let's start with a piece of fun trivia. This is the first Rolex model—to my knowledge—to take its *actual* name from a nickname given by collectors to its historical predecessor. The ref. 8171—which Rolex explicitly cites as the inspiration for the new watch—was nicknamed the Padellone, Italian for "large frying pan," for its wide 38mm flat case and slightly domed dial. So it's appropriate that Rolex would return to Milan—arguably the birthplace of vintage watch collecting—to launch a watch that will likely make a lot of vintage lovers happy. A vintage Rolex ref. 8171 "Padellone." Even if you don't know the history of vintage Rolex or the 8171—which we'll cover in a minute—a new watch from Rolex (especially one launched off-cycle, so to speak, outside Watches & Wonders) is always a big deal. The only recent similar release was the surprise launch of the white go...

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Worn & Wound
Chronoswiss Pulse GMT I love Sep 8, 2026

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT

I love the experience of a truly unique watch. A watch that, despite doing what the rest of them do, for all intents and purposes, is still unlike anything you’ve strapped to your wrist. This goes beyond the dial to the case, bracelet, time-telling, movement, etc. It doesn’t have to encompass all of those things, but when it does, it reminds you that there is still creativity in the watch world. The Chronoswiss Pulse GMT is one such watch. It’s almost hard to describe the Pulse GMT. It’s something between an integrated-bracelet sports watch and a conceptual neo-futurist travel thingamajiggy. Frankly, had I been told it was a prop from *Gattaca* or another stylized sci-fi film, I might have believed it. Its lines are fluid and complex, except when they aren’t, touching on biomorphic forms while also speaking to the traditional inspirations the brand was founded on. It’s not an easy watch to digest at a glance, presenting conflicting forms, and yet it works. Well, for me it does, but I like weird watches. And regulators. And weird regulators. Starting with the case and bracelet, though integrated, there is a merging of two concepts. Ignoring the bracelet entirely, the central case measures 41.4mm x ~48mm x 13.6mm to the top of the slightly domed sapphire crystal and draws from the brand’s historical DNA, but mutates it substantially. The coined-edge bezel and caseback become notched instead. Less ornate but still textural, it gives more diver than pocket watch....

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2026

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda

Arguably the most accomplished A. Lange & Söhne chronograph – and undoubtedly the largest – the Triple Split returns for the third time in the best looking guise yet. Now in platinum for the first time, the new Triple Split has a silver dial with dark grey registers – a “panda” dial done Lange style. Following the last iteration in pink gold from 2021, the latest Triple Split is a new take on the familiar model, so the rest remains the same, including the chunky case that’s 15.6 mm high and accommodates the magnificent, multilayered L132.1 that can measure a pair of elapsed times of up to 12 hours, a world first and only. Initial thoughts The new Triple Split is merely a cosmetic variation on the model, but it’s probably the most appealing version of the model to date. The “panda” dial is a pale grey that reminds me of a long-ago Lange limited edition chronograph, while the dark grey sub-dials are a striking feature rarely found on Lange chronographs. Likewise, the case is identically sized, but now in platinum. The immediate impression of the Triple Split is one of size and weight – now even weightier thanks to the platinum case. It’s a reassuring feeling, albeit at the expense of balance on the wrist and ergonomics. This sensation is de rigueur for complicated Lange watches. In keeping with Lange’s recent confidence, the Triple Split is more expensive than its prior iterations, even accounting for the platinum case. But as is the case with the b...

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Bulgari BVL 362 based Sep 1, 2026

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...

Review: the DWC Terra Worn & Wound
Aug 31, 2026

Review: the DWC Terra

What happens when a watch goes viral? Well, besides the obvious – everyone sees them, everyone buys them, second hand prices go crazy – you know the deal. That’s exactly what happened with the DWC Terra – a unique take on the field watch by the small Indian brand, Delhi Watch Co. Military-inspired field watches out there have their charm, but they all tend to blend in. For good reason too – they’re built to a military specification that calls out for case size, dial markings, and beyond — generally sticking to a formula that makes sense when it needs to be as standard as a uniform. That’s where the DWC Terra takes a huge turn. It’s a field watch, but looks more like something that would be at home on the wrist of one of the deep space truckers in Alien than it does something that’d be worn down here on Earth. They stick to the classic field watch simplicity, but the package represents something new that we’ve never seen before in the watch world. Let’s take a closer look at this interesting, affordable, and unique take on the field watch. In case you missed it, this watch has a pretty fair amount of hype going around it. Sold out in a flash with Ticketmaster-style online queues that were thousands long, the Terra made a pretty big impact when it hit the market. DWC is short for Delhi Watch Company — a small brand based out of Delhi, India that focuses on watches with unique designs at a reasonable price point. The Terra hits both of those with eas...

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status Hodinkee
Aug 19, 2026

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status

This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan.  For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...