Deployant
New: Ba1110d Chapter 4.6 GMT Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition
Ba111od releases a new model combining their super-value tourbillon with a GMT feature, bringing travel functionality to the watch to the Chapter 4.6.
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Deployant
Ba111od releases a new model combining their super-value tourbillon with a GMT feature, bringing travel functionality to the watch to the Chapter 4.6.
SJX Watches
Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...
Worn & Wound
Origin stories in this hobby influence the rabbit holes we follow. My story began when I learned not all modern watches have batteries. The simple idea that mechanical watches were still being made, sold down the street from me, and could run for years without intervention blew my mind. Partially because it was mechanically impressive, but mostly because of how unnecessary it was. The concept of dozens of components interacting to move hands around a dial, when a perfectly functional watch can be purchased at the grocery store for $20, resonated with me. My discovery of these rebelliously absurd contraptions came at a time in my life when I had two kids in daycare and income was not disposable. My first mechanical watch was a one-handed Luch, a watch I loved dearly, and purchased for about $50. I didn’t care about finishing or accuracy, just that I had something unnecessarily complicated strapped to my wrist. Years later, my philosophy hasn’t changed much. When considering a new watch, I always ask myself three questions: What does it do? Does that thing excite me? Is there anything about the watch that doesn’t excite me? That third question is the one that keeps my collection and budget in check. The answers I come up with, always rooted in my original fascination with accessibly priced mechanical timekeeping, have surprised me. Some are movement specific, and others centered around design. Photo by Nathan Schultz So, to kick off a two-part series where I will try n...
Teddy Baldassarre
Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on. Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...
Quill & Pad
By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, Luc Pettavino has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands. Here are Martin Green’s Top Ten, and the last one, which is his absolute favorite!
SJX Watches
Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...
Worn & Wound
Oppenheimer, the new film by Chrisopher Nolan, opened this weekend. And if there’s one thing we know we’re going to get with a Nolan film, it’s a very loud soundtrack. But if there are two things, the other is probably the use of a handful of Hamilton watches throughout. The director has forged a partnership with the brand going back to Interstellar in 2014 and Tenet in 2020. Both of those films used Hamilton watches that were customized in some way, and played integral roles in the telling of the story. For Interstellar, the “Murph” watch allowed Matthew McConaughey’s astronaut character to communicate through time and space with his daughter back home on the farm, thereby imparting secrets of quantum physics that would later save the planet (or something). And in Tenet, a Hamilton BeLOWZERO was custom fit with a backwards running timer, because, well, it would take too long to explain. But the point is, these watches played a real role in Nolan’s storytelling. They were props, but not just props. A vintage Cushion B, Lexington, and Endicott, worn by Cillian Murphy in Oppenheimer Oppenheimer is a whole other kettle of fish, however. Unlike Tenet and Interstellar, Nolan’s latest is based on actual events, specifically the building and detonation of the first atomic weapons. Without sci-fi flights of fancy and what we anticipate will be some adherence to the historical record, there’s no need for the watches in the film to perform parlor tricks – they ...
Episode 59 of A Week in Watches comes from inside of Windup Watch Fair Chicago. Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss take the opportunity to talk to eight brands about their new releases and their stories. From the new Bulova Jet Star to Lorier’s Hydra III to Benrus’ Ultra-Deep, there were lots of great releases and watches in general at the Windup Watch Fair. Check out this week’s video below for just a taste of what was at the fair. Want to check out a Windup Watch Fair for yourself? The next one will be in New York City from October 20 – 22, 2023. It’s going to be our biggest fair yet. To stay up to date check out windupwatchfair.com, follow the fair @windupwatchfair, and sign up for our newsletters. The post A Week in Watches Episode 59: Lorier, Baltic, Bulova, and More From Windup Watch Fair Chicago ’23 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
I am always watching the latest hit television shows, but every now and again I will find comfort in enjoying a classic I have already seen. A show which ran for three seasons, across only a year or so, Blue Mountain State became a cult-classic, at least in America, as one of the last television … ContinuedThe post Remember when Blue Mountain State roasted lacrosse players with a Patek joke? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The history of commissioned timepieces is a long and colorful one, but collector group commissions are perhaps a more recent phenomenon. GaryG recently met with Adam Eisendrath of San Francisco-based collectors 49 Crowns to learn more about the club and to check out two customized watches commissioned from Swiss-based Finnish independent Torsti Laine.
Hodinkee
Radium is the least of his concerns in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The challenge: you … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, AP, VC – you can only wear one for life. These were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli is a unique piece that features a hand-made grey gold dragon automaton on a lapis lazuli dial. The dragon has sixteen moving parts and nine animations, which can be activated by a push-button. The dial also has a rotating labradorite sphere at six o’clock.
Time+Tide
Another week has come to a close. So, whether holding an espresso or a pint in your hand, kick back, relax, and dive into what we believe are 10 of the best releases over the last seven days. Among them, you’ll find a lot of independents and not just one but two collaborations between media … ContinuedThe post New releases from AP, Baltic, Longines and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Some people understand the benefits, limitations, and mechanics of duty-free shopping for a luxury watch at an airport: they know a deal when they see one. For these savvy individuals, shopping at the airport can and does make economic sense – sometimes. In this article Chris Malburg explains watch shopping at airports for the rest of us.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewed and tested for real-world use, these field watches balance tool-watch toughness with everyday usability on trails or on the job.
SJX Watches
Historically known for its oversized, over-complicated watches, Greubel Forsey appears to be taking a step in a different direction as its resizes two of its bestselling sports watches, the Balancier Convexe S2 and Double Balancier Convexe. The Convexe duo are now thinner and smaller, while retaining the same ovoid form with a curved profile that characterises the brand’s sports watches. While the difference in case size between the earlier models and the new pair is worth noting, the downsizing is arguably more significant in its implications for the direction of the brand, which also recently announced an expansion to its sloping, glass-box manufacture. The Double Balancier Convexe (left), and Balancier Convexe S2 Initial thoughts A reduction in size from Greubel Forsey is rather unexpected since its watches have traditionally been unashamedly large. To be fair, the brand utilised the large cases well to best display the complex movements and expert finishing. However, the extra-large watches, along with typically hefty price tags, have always placed the brand in a niche of its own – not only did buyers need the means to buy a six-figure watch, but also have the wrist circumference to pull it off. While we have seen a shift in taste over the last couple of years towards decreasing case diameters, Greubel Forsey and its peer in the same price range, namely Richard Mille, had seemed immune to the change – or simply resistant. So, while the seemingly innocuous red...
Hodinkee
The H Community is all about our shared passion for watches; our community guidelines are about fostering that.
Time+Tide
This week was a bit calmer in regard to new novelties, but a big headline within the watch world was the news that Swatch are suing the Malaysian government after it seized 172 pride-themed watches from stores. Swatch is seeking damages and the return of the watches that are worth US$14,000. The Malaysian authorities said … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Swatch sues Malaysian government for seizing their Pride-themed watches from stores appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Unlike dive watches, most of which share many common technical and aesthetic elements geared toward their intended underwater use, sailing watches and yachting watches are harder to define. Sailing watches range from a simple three-hander with a nautical design influence, one to wear while chilling on the deck of a cruise ship or at the yacht club, to a tool-oriented timepiece geared toward competitive regatta racing, with countdown functions, tides indicators, and other utilitarian features. In this feature, just in time for the closing weeks of summer sailing season, we’ve rounded up some of our favorites in every style, listed from eminently affordable and functional to luxurious and exclusive. Timex Intelligent Quartz Tides Watch Price: $136, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 16mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Timex Intelligent Quartz Caliber What mass-market Timex may lack in horological prestige, it makes up for in clever utility with its Intelligent Quartz Tide Temp Compass. What makes this watch’s quartz movement “smart?” Basically, it’s an open-ended tech platform that uses onboard sensors and microprocessors in the movement to drive individual functions on analog displays, providing an array of information from perpetual calendar to world clock to flyback chronograph to an array of nautical-navigation features, which include a tide tracker, compass, and thermometer. The compass incorporates an adjustable declina...
Hodinkee
Back in 2020 Vacheron and the Louvre offered a chance for a watch based on any piece of art. This is the amazing result.
Time+Tide
Seventy years ago in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms became the first modern dive watch that was readily available to consumers. Tackling the practical requests of French Navy combat swimmers, the original Fifty Fathoms set the default style for modern diving watches by offering guaranteed water resistance, a large 41mm case, a rotating timing bezel … ContinuedThe post You can get not one but TWO Blancpain watches in this charity fundraiser for ocean conservation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Rado remakes their iconic 1962 DiaStar by reimagining the watch in an open worked dial. Introducing the new DiaStar Original Skeleton.
Time+Tide
Now that the thrilling and heart-wrenching Oppenheimer has hit theatres, watch fanatics will surely be clamouring to find out what’s on the wrists of the cast. Christopher Nolan is known for his attention to detail and commitment to practical effects, so watches would never be a costuming afterthought. Hamilton must have amassed the greatest relationship … ContinuedThe post Vintage Hamilton watches get eye-catching cameos in Oppenheimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Chris Baker is not the typical watch enthusiast we’re used to reading about. He’s not an actor, a titan of industry, or any sort of celebrity brand ambassador. He is, however, the type of person we need more of. Chris describes himself as a “homelessness and housing advocate and service provider.” In fact, he is the founder of The Other Ones Foundation (TOOF) in Austin, Texas, a nonprofit that offers humanitarian aid, case management and extremely low-barrier work opportunities to people experiencing homelessness. You may know Chris from Netflix’s hit reality show, Queer Eye. He was the hero featured in season 6, episode 8. For those unfamiliar, Queer Eye is a feel-good show where five hosts come into the lives of extraordinary people who do and represent extraordinary things, but need a hand in claiming ownership of the incredible people that they are. This was my introduction to Chris. I connected with his story so much that I began following him on Instagram, and over the last couple of years he’s become a friendly online acquaintance. Eventually I found out that Chris is a watch enthusiast, so I reached out to him to have a conversation about his love of watches and where they fit into his life. Chris comes off as a rocker who’s made his way around the block, cracking jokes, delivering a bit of snark in a gravel tone, evoking some 90s grunge vibes – I was waiting for him to croon “Black Hole Sun,” alas, it didn’t happen. Instead he explained t...
Deployant
For this summer, Bovet releases two new colours for the Récital 23 range - in vibrant green and baby blue, both set with brilliant white diamonds.
Time+Tide
It’s Trading Faces time! For those tuning in for the first time, Trading Faces is a column in which I break down genuine watch trades I have made in my collection. I love writing this column, not only because it means there is a new and exciting, at least for me, watch in my collection, but also because it … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I just gave up five Kurono watches for this one Piaget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari is a stunning feat for two main reasons: it is the thinnest mechanical watch in the world and it meets some extreme requirements for shock and water resistance all while being only 1.75 mm in height. Here Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive.
Time+Tide
Usually when we write a story involving an athlete or celebrity, it involves watch spotting. But last week the worlds of popular culture and horology intersected in a more significant and meaningful way. We have previously documented how football superstar Cristiano Ronaldo is a fully fledged watch collector, but now he takes on the role … ContinuedThe post From CR7 to C24: Cristiano Ronaldo invests in Chrono24 watch marketplace platform appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The enthusiast fair returned to the Windy City and attendees brought some amazing watches.
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