Deployant
Back to Basics: Another Six Simple Time-Only Dress Watches
In today's column, we will be going back to the basics and take a look at six compelling and excellent time-only dress watches.
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Deployant
In today's column, we will be going back to the basics and take a look at six compelling and excellent time-only dress watches.
Time+Tide
There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When Breguet introduced the Tradition collection in 2005, it took inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s souscription pocket watches made back when the famed watchmaker himself was still at the helm. The new Reference 7035 is very much a precious version of Breguet's modern La Tradition with diamonds added to the mix. And they are beautifully snow set!
Deployant
The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm is a nice addition to the Excalibur line, in particular for its more elegant case size. Without compromising its sporty look, the skeletonized tourbillon timepiece provides an excellent alternative to classic watches, a segment of casual high luxury watches that are on an incline. The watch is priced at S$217,000 and limited to 88 pieces.
SJX Watches
With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...
Quill & Pad
For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.
Deployant
Petermann Bédat releases a second series to their jumping seconds 1967 with the new series in ti case and a blue dial. We go hands on with live photographs.
Hodinkee
The Swiss-German watchmaker partners with California-Based Collective Horology
Revolution
Hublot partners with some of the most celebrated personalities of our time to create watches that showcase the kaleidoscopic worlds of music, art and sports.
Time+Tide
Brand ambassadors are a huge promotional tool for brands today, aligning their products with famous faces to extend the reach and awareness for their timepieces. But it isn’t a simple science, not all partnerships are created equal. The best ambassador alliances stem from celebrities who have a genuine aura, who are not simply a shill … ContinuedThe post Ryan Gosling announced as TAG Heuer’s new brand ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having launched one of the best watches of 2020 with the spectacularly decorated Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) returned to its very first model this year, remaking the FB 1 by bestowing upon it an open-worked movement accompanied by more contemporary styling. The result is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS – short for Régulateur Squelette, or “regulator skeleton”, which tidily sums up the time display format as well as the movement. Like the original FB 1, the new model has both a tourbillon as well as a chain and fusée. Notably, the FB RS is actually two models but equipped with the same movement, the FB-T.FC-RS. One is an octagonal case in sandblasted steel, the decidedly modern FB 1RS.6, while the other is the more conventional FB 2RS.2 in a round case of polished 18k rose gold. The FB-T.FC-RS While the two versions are quite different in terms of style, both share a similarly large diameter – resulting from the calibre within that boasts exemplary construction and finishing. The FB 1RS.6 in steel The FB 2RS.2 in gold Initial thoughts FB’s watches are best described as big and chunky – too big mostly – with equipped with exceptional movements. And the models with a tourbillon are especially big. Because of the their size, FB tourbillons tended to have a wide, empty expanse on the dial (which was dressed up with italic script in recent models). In contrast, the FB RS does away with all that empty real estate by uncovering the mechanics b...
Hodinkee
I took a crash course – and I crashed. But along the way, I learned a few things that will serve me well once I pull myself from the wreckage.
Hodinkee
And the sale, set for November, supports a worthy cause.
SJX Watches
Having been founded in 2017 as a spinoff from authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers, Watchbox has swiftly grown into one of the biggest sellers of pre-owned watches globally. Having started life with a US$100m capital infusion from a Singapore-based private equity outfit, the company has just announced 2021 sales will cross US$300m, thanks to growth projected to top 40%. For comparison, that is approximately equivalent to the annual watch sales of the major auction houses, namely Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s. The announcement comes just weeks after Watchbox took a majority stake in De Bethune, a respected independent watchmaker that nonetheless struggling for most of its existence, but is now on a sounder financial footing. At the same time, the financial resources available to Watchbox indicate that its investment in De Bethune might be the first of several such acquisitions. At the same time, the Philadephia-based company announced an expansion of its store network, which currently includes outposts in Dubai (pictured above), Hong Kong, and Singapore. It plans eight new stores in 2022, with five located in the United States, followed by Zurich, Riyadh, and Tokyo.
Quill & Pad
Van Halen was the catalyst kicking off Elizabeth Doerr's lifelong passion for rock music as the first band she stumbled across in this genre (but most certainly not the last). One cursory listen to “Eruption” and she was hooked on rock for life. In honor of the anniversary of Eddie Van Halen's untimely death on October 6, 2020, cue “Eruption” and take a look at three tasteful and fun watches the guitar god owned and wore.
Revolution
Ross Povey gives us the low down on Monaco Legend Group’s October 2021 auction and the few lots in particular that he has an eye on.
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story is a series of videos that asks real, non-celebrity, non-influencer, watch lovers in the @Time+Tide Watches community simply to tell the story of their watch. The answers are always relatable. And in this case, they’re also quite enviable. Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest by the … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Hugh had his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved with his family crest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Laurent Ferrier releases the new Square Micro-Rotor Retro, in two interpretations of the legendary theme from the late 1930s.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong Sale is primarily focused on wristwatches, encompassing several unique Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Eric Clapton and a dozen examples of early F.P. Journe. But two of the most valuables lots in the auction – and with estimates well into seven-figure US dollar sums – are a pair of museum-quality automata. Made for the Chinese market more than two centuries ago, this pair of objects are tremendously rare and exquisitely decorated in enamel and pearls. Two generations ago, such automata as well as pocket watches were the most respected genre in watch collecting. They were sought after by eminent collectors like the former chairman of HSBC and the German billionaire who was once the fifth-richest man in the world, which is why the record-setting lots in watch auctions of that era were inevitably pocket watches or objects, like the million-dollar Cremsdorff. Almost 400-years old, this pocket watch made by Jehan Cremsdorff sold for £2.175m, or about US$2.734m, including fees, at Sotheby’s in 2019 With the rise of wristwatches as the preeminent collecting category, demand for automata and pocket watches have declined sharply. Now the most expensive timepiece ever sold is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A mega-complication that sold for over US$33 million in 2019. But elaborately enamelled pocket watches are arguably the closest thing to fine art in horology, because of the intrinsic nature of the artisanal dec...
SJX Watches
After two years of digital fairs – and several sold-out physical fairs in China – Watches & Wonders is finally happening in Geneva. First announced for 2020 as the successor to the long-running SIHH, which for two decades was the luxury-watch fair in Geneva, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) 2022 will take place from March 30 to April 5 at Palexpo, with 39 brands in attendance. All of the major names that spurred the demise of Baselworld will exhibit at W&W; 2022, namely Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor. They’ll be joined by most of the brands owned by Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that was historically the anchor of SIHH, the event that preceded W&W;. Amongst the Richemont brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Another luxury group represented at the fair is LVMH, which has all three of its watch brands – Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – taking part. Bulgari, however, is notably absent, perhaps because there are already two Richemont-owned jewellers present. One of the significant newcomers is Grand Seiko, which only just announced its participation in the fair. Seiko was a longtime mainstay of Baselworld, so it’s not surprising that its top-of-the-line brand is returning to Switzerland to exhibit its newest watches. The gang returns, except for the independents As was the case with SIHH in the past, W&W; 2022 will include the Carré des Horlogers, a square dedicated to independent watchmakers. In years past the carré co...
Quill & Pad
ArtyA's new Purity Tourbillon is a stunning watch combining an ultra-minimal skeletonized tourbillon movement with a perfectly clear and super-strong sapphire crystal case. ArtyA never shies away from extreme aesthetics, but the Purity Tourbillon is extreme in a more mainstream way, and Joshua Munchow thinks it has a lot going for it.
Deployant
Green dial watches have been around for longer than many would have expected, first popularized by models like the Rolex Hulk and Panerai's Bronzo. In the recent 2 years, the green craze has overtaken the industry, with more and more brands creating new models to satisfy the green dial market. Here are 6 recommendations for a green dial watch for any green dial enthusiast.
Quill & Pad
Watch- and clockmaking has a long history in Germany, as evidenced by the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century timepieces from the Nuremberg/Augsburg area and the academic discussions of Peter Henlein, who is said to have made the world’s first pocket watch around 1505. But the country's roots in great watchmaking do not stop there: Elizabeth Doerr takes us on an historical journey of Glashütte, the birthplace of modern Germany's fine watches.
Quill & Pad
Tutima has one leg in the realm of fine watchmaking and the other firmly placed in its lower to mid-priced Grand Flieger collection, composed of German pilot-style watches. Bhanu Chopra visited the Tutima manufacture in Glashütte, Germany for a closer look at how this duality works and what role it plays in the company's history.
I needed a watch that could help me do the impossible. My Casio 'Easy to Read' did just that.
SJX Watches
Cartier has enjoyed industry-beating growth since current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took over in 2016, with demand for both its watches and jewellery rising at a steady clip. One of the individuals behind the success of Cartier’s watch division is Marie-Laure Cérède. Having started her career at Cartier, she spent a dozen years at Harry Winston, before returning to the French jeweller in October 2016 as the Deputy Creative Director of Watchmaking. And in May 2017 she was elevated to the top job in design, making her ultimately responsible for the aesthetic of Cartier’s watchmaking. One of the first redesigns during Ms Cerede’s leadership was the Santos, which has evolved from the Santos launched in 1978 (far left), to the Santos 100 of the 2000s (centre), and finally the present model Her tenure has been marked by a steady stream of hits, ranging from collector favourites like the Tank Cintree to the trendy Tank Must. In that time, Cartier has reimagined most of its trademark watch lines, including the Santos and more recently, the Pasha. I spoke with Ms Cérède earlier this year to uncover the secret behind her successful rejuvenation of Cartier’s diverse line-up. Also present during the interview was Anne Charrier, the public relations-strategy manager for jewellery, watches, and accessories. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Cartier has a strong collection this year, both for men and women. And for a few years now, you have had stro...
Time+Tide
Whether due to the pandemic, or the nuances of sourcing pieces at retail, many watch buyers look to buy from a distance online in favor of making a deal in the metal. It is also the medium where informed buyers can find the best deals, whether pre-owned, or even new, at a discount. Seasoned collectors … ContinuedThe post Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
From new takes on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver and Chronograph to a thorough refresh of the Seamaster 300, two watchmaking titans are updating the tried and true.
Hodinkee
The secret is finally out. And HODINKEE got to see the piece in person.
Hodinkee
Fresh, clean, and contemporary is the name of the game for LVMH's watch brands.
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