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Time+Tide
Tudor team up with Visa Cash App RB F1 team to release a blue dial version of the Black Bay Ceramic in another sports team collaboration.The post Tudor goes racing blue with a new Formula 1-themed Black Bay Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A few months ago, just ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 season, Tudor announced a rather unexpected partnership, signing its return in motorsport. The brand indeed announced its official partnership with Red Bull’s second team, Visa Cash App RB Formula One team, with drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda behind the wheel. Only a couple […]
Fratello
Yes, you’re looking at a new watch. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 is a watch with a very familiar face. But that face underwent some serious yet subtle “cosmetic surgery.” The reference 5396 has been around since 2006 and has become one of the most recognizable Patek watches around. The vertical design, which shows […] Visit Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 to read the full article.
Fratello
In March 2019, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary edition in Moonshine Gold. This watch is a modern reproduction of the 1969 gold Moonwatch presented to US President Nixon, Vice President Agnew, and all active NASA astronauts at the time. That watch also became available to the general market, with a slightly […] Visit Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]
Fratello
Diver’s, field, and pilot’s watches are among the most popular variations in the time-only-watch universe. While Circula already covered the first two, now with the ProFlight, it also ticks the last box. Although unmistakably derived from Circula’s ProTrail, this ProFlight model immediately impresses with its modern pilot’s watch face. It’s probably thanks to a quirky, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue to read the full article.
Fratello
The Sphaera Epoch Classic Rusty is not just a timepiece; it embodies emotion wrapped around your wrist. It whispers tales of yesteryear and adventures untold, with each glance at its weathered face stirring a deep, resonant connection to the timeless dance of hours and minutes. This watch doesn’t just mark time; it marks moments, imbuing […] Visit Hands-On With The Sphaera Epoch Classic Rusty to read the full article.
Monochrome
Ludwig Oechslin’s ochs und Junior original designs offer unique solutions to traditional complications. The ochs und Junior luna sole, a recent addition to the collection, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to a minimalist style and the simplification of astronomical indications. This new watch elegantly combines timekeeping with date, sun, moon phase, and the […]
Time+Tide
New Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission on Earth models have arrived, but is this what the collection needed in the face of waning momentum?The post Does the new Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission on Earth solve the fatigue surrounding the collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve, a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM. This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming New York auction, taking place on June 8 and 9, includes an unusual number of exceptional, highly complicated English pocket watches. Notably, these watches were consigned by the same discerning collector who owned the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 with double split-seconds that recently sold for US$1.30 million including fees. All dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, the pocket watches exemplify the most prestigious type of timepiece in the world during the period, the high-quality English watch. Banker J. Pierpont Morgan, for instance, was an avid collector of English watches, and owned what was then the most complicated watch in the world, and made in England naturally. Quintessentially English That, however, was also when English watchmaking of this quality peaked. A victim of economic crises, war, and unwillingness to adopt new manufacturing technologies, high-end English watchmaking would go extinct after the Great Depression, though it has been revived in the 21st century in artisanal form thanks to the likes of Charles Frodsham. English watches in their heyday were often very complicated, but restrained in terms of movement decoration. This same philosophy would later be employed by George Daniels, who understood that quality did not equal decoration. He famously said on several occasions that a high-quality watches does not need fanciful decoration (which he implied was customarily Swiss). The auction includes five English pocket ...
Deployant
IWC presents the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, featuring a secular calendar and the world's most accurate moon phase indicator.
Monochrome
The BR 01 is the face that launched a thousand ships for Bell & Ross, capturing the military and aviation inspiration that has come to define this brand. Unveiled in 2005, the BR 01’s distinctive square case with four screws and a round, cockpit instrument-inspired dial became the brand’s foundation watch. With its oversized 46mm […]
Fratello
This watch has been sitting in my safe and waiting for its moment for ages! After several weeks of heavy-hitting Gallet chronographs, I spotted a watch lying face down in the corner of the safe. I turned it over, and there it was - my abandoned crazy-lumed Citizen Auto Dater 7. I took it out […] Visit #TBT An Intriguing Citizen Auto Dater 7 APSS52903-T With Out-Of-The-Box Lume to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...
Monochrome
Are you done with in-your-face splashes of colour? Are you fed up with blue, yellow, red, green or perhaps even pink and purple? Well, you’re in luck because we’ve been eyeballing a couple of very impressive watches with simple yet ever-fashionable pristine white dials. This almost blank canvas can serve any purpose, from simple single-handed unisex […]
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
Fratello
As I become more familiar with the Sternglas brand, I realize I’m not as tuned in as I thought. On the face of it, this Hamburg-based watch brand embraces minimalism in its designs, albeit with considered bursts of color. The popular Hamburg line of watches, named after the brand’s home city, is a typical example. […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large. The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.
Monochrome
A Swiss-born brand then relocated to Germany, Hanhart has a long tradition of making pilot’s watches. Mostly, its chronographs equipped with the calibre 40 and 42 have been some of the defining models for the genre, proving their reliability on battlefields and on the wrist of many airforces after conflicts. For its latest release, Hanhart […]
Quill & Pad
Supercars are not designed and developed for your daily commute or to do the shopping run, although they can do those automotive tasks, they are made to get your pulse racing, adrenal pumping, and putting a smile on your face. And that's just what MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 does as well.
Monochrome
The launch of the Bulgari Aluminio in 1998 flew in the face of conventional watchmaking with its unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminium. With its graphic solid black and off-white livery, the Aluminio soared in popularity as an attractive, entry-level sports watch with a slick Italian soul. Marking its much-anticipated comeback in 2020, […]
Hodinkee
The king of collaborations wants nothing but integrated bracelets and straps, and has one of the craziest collections of TAG F1s you will ever see.
Worn & Wound
Very few things put a smile on my face quite like the Ulysse Nardin Freak. It’s one of the first haute horlogerie watches I can remember encountering, well before watches were ever a hobby or preoccupation, in a glossy magazine advertisement that I probably saw while waiting for a doctor’s appointment or something else similarly trivial and forgettable. The Freak, though, has stayed with me. How could it not? It’s one of the most cleverly named watches ever made, for one. And its “no dial, no hands, no crown” concept continues to endure, and even after multiple decades of horological innovation surrounding Ulysse Nardin (which they very much had a role in kicking off) it remains every bit as avante-garde, insane, and completely delightful as its always been. For the third straight year, Ulysse Nardin has brought just one watch to show at Watches & Wonders. The Freak S Nomad, a follow up to 2022’s Freak S, is a futuristic tour-de-force that pays tribute to classical watchmaking at the same time as it shows us something we’ve never quite seen before. The movement, an imposing flying carousel that rotates around its own axis, features two balance wheels posted at a 20 degree incline linked to a vertically integrated differential mounted to ball bearings. Every Freak movement, no matter how advanced or comparatively simple (this one is the most advanced there is) is an exercise in problem solving. When the movement itself is in motion, it adds a whole layer o...
Time+Tide
Zenith have resurrected the Defy Extreme Diver with full vigour and in-your-face attitude.The post The Defy Extreme Diver brings back a diver to the Zenith catalogue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Yves G. Piaget, the fourth generation of the Piaget watchmaking and jewellery dynasty, launched the sporty-chic Polo watch in 1979. With its ultra-thin gold case and sleek bracelet decorated with horizontal gadroons, the Polo captured the era’s zeitgeist to become a massive hit. In 2016, Piaget gave the Polo a complete makeover, transforming it into […]
Fratello
My theoretical-wrist-grail taste has evolved, as has the watch-collecting community. In the face of unavailability and client-selective ADs, independent choices have come to the fore. And despite the shaky world markets, plenty of potential buyers are looking for alternatives outside the big-brand catalogs. Debuting back in 2010 with distinctively minimal luxury and the world’s best-looking […] Visit Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation to read the full article.
Monochrome
During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]
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