Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 20.11 'Mosaic' Puts A Miniature Metropolis On The Wrist
The laser-etched sapphire dial means a light show like you've never seen before.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine
Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...
WatchAdvice
2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review
What we like: Dial design is a real head turner Beautiful bracelet with mirror finishGreat price point for a Swiss chronograph What we don’t like: Some may not like the thickness of the watch Scatches will show up easily on the bracelet The watch can wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Overall rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 One of the most anticipated watches in 2022 has just been released, and Watchadvice has been given a chance to do a full in-depth review of it. The Tissot PRX Chronograph is the latest addition to the ever-popular Tissot PRX collection released last year. The Tissot PRX was a revamp of the original PRX created in 1978. Back then, Tissot released the PRX in an emblematic design with an integrated case and bracelet. The model stood out for its timeless design and sleek slender appearance. Unlike this modern reinterpretation, the original model came in various dial colours and different case shapes. The original Tissot PRX never had a chance to be in the limelight, as the model was released when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 and Patek Philippe released the Nautilus in 1976. Now, however, I feel like the Tissot PRX (40 205) is getting the undivided attention it deserves. The latest Tissot PRX is a much-loved timepiece upon its release, with watch fanatics jumping on the bandwagon to get their hands on this piece. While the Tissot PRX is a fantastic watch an...
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361
Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...
SJX Watches
Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition
Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets”
Fully back in the saddle, after a brief vacation hiatus we are back with another crossword for you to tackle. While perhaps not among the top of the list in regard to glamorous watch components, hands are crucial for conveying various indications on a dial (even a movement in certain cases). So, let’s test your … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...
SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337
One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...
SJX Watches
Orient Star Introduces the Diver 1964 2nd Edition
Launched last year as a limited edition with a steel bezel insert, the Orient Star dive watch is returning as a regular-production model. Powered by an in-house automatic movement with the brand’s signature power reserve indicator – an uncommon but useful complication for a mechanical dive watch – the Diver 1964 2nd Edition will be available in two dial colours matched with an anodised aluminium bezel insert. A struggling, publicly-listed watchmaker until it was rescued by Seiko Epson in 2001, Orient is now a subsidiary of the printing giant. Primarily focused on affordable watches priced at several hundred dollars, Orient also offers more upscale models under the Orient Star label, which encompasses the Diver 1964 2nd Edition. Initial thoughts The new diver is essentially identical to last year’s limited edition, save for the dial and bezel insert. While the black dial doesn’t differ much, the green dial is a totally different look that’s a useful option for someone looking for something less plain. Because it has the same case as last year’s model, the 2nd Edition feels identical. It’s robustly constructed with a surprisingly solid bracelet. The feel in hand is definitely one of a “tool” watch. That said, the case is a thick 14.5 mm high, almost too thick with the 41 mm case. As a result, the watch feels bulky and top heavy. The Orient Star diver is comparable in quality to similarly priced Seiko Prospex dive watches, which means the value proposition...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?
Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin introduces a new dial colour to the acclaimed Overseas Perpetual Calender Ultra-Thin Skeleton model, now with a full gold bracelet.
Deployant
New: Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and MkII Reverse Panda chronographs
Hanhart extends their classic pilot chronographs Pioneer Mk I and Pioneer Mk II with a new dial variation in the form of the Reverse Panda.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa”
Seiko is launching a new Australasian Limited Edition from the Prospex range that is inspired by one of the most stunning holiday destinations in Australia – Noosa in Queensland. The colourway for this timepiece is the seemingly always on-trend black and blue but adds popping bright yellow accents. The dial has a very subtle texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Expands The Prospex Speedtimer Line With The SRQ043
The brand's high-spec sporty chronograph gets a blue dial.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection
The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Perrelet Turbine Rainbow in carbon fibre
Perrelet releases a new watch to extend their iconic Turbile line with a multi-colour peek-a-boo dial and a case in carbon fibre.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Chronoscope Isn't Just A New Omega Speedmaster – It's All Speedmasters Ever, Packed Into One
It's a souped-up Speedy with all the dial text. And if you ever wondered how to read it, wonder no more.
Hodinkee
How The Watch Industry Is Trying To Go Green
And no, we're not talking about dial colors.
Quill & Pad
Corum Bubble Skull X-Ray: Ghoulishly Good
The skull as a watch theme have a long tradition dating back to early pocket watches. Called memento mori, these were decorated with skulls with the aim of reminding the owner to live life to the fullest and make the most of time on earth. With the latest addition to the Bubble collection, Corum continues this tradition, this time choosing a luminescent x-ray image of a skull to decorate the dial.
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-014
Patek Philippe introduces its latest perpetual calendar chronograph: the Ref. 5270P-014 with gradated green dial. We bring you the details and our thoughts.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Should Every Season Be Grand Seiko Season?
This weekend we're talking Zaratsu polishing, textured dial work, and what's still one of the best value props in all of luxury watchmaking.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update
It’s almost impossible to point out a Seiko model that couldn’t be described as a classic in some way, but the Seiko Sumo has enjoyed a strong cult following since 2007 for good reason. Its rounded shape and aggressive dial make for a robust package that doesn’t look too vintage to be kitschy or too … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko King Sumo collection gets a heavyweight update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: the new Bovet 1822 Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two
Our hands-on, detailed review of the new Bover 1822 Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two in a sand blasted titanium case and Super-Luminova dial.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph
Vintage military-inspired watches can sometimes seem like an easy path for microbrands to go down, but there are plenty of pitfalls and traps along the way. If you get the sizing wrong, you alienate a huge chunk of potential buyers. If there’s a certain detail out of place on the dial, again you’ve lost interest. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Equation of Time Introduces the Fat Arrow Collaboration
Conceived sub-brand of RGM, one of the original independent watchmaker in America, Equation of Time is a maker of affordable watches often created in collaboration with collectors, with the latest being the Fat Arrow Collaboration Watch. The dial of the watch reproduces a 2015 artwork created by watch photographer Atom Moore that’s a riff on the pilot’s wristwatches supplied to the Royal Air Force in the 1950s by brands like Omega and IWC. Like the military-issue originals, the Fat Arrow Collaboration is a compact, hand-wind timepiece with the feel of a vintage remake, but st apart with a dial that’s clearly modern and definitely original. Initial thoughts The Fat Arrow Collaboration (FAC) is one of many watches inspired by vintage military timepieces, but it is cleverly different. It utilises the historical arrow emblem used to mark British military equipment as a decorative element. Mr Moore’s original artwork, Fat Arrow, is an artistically-altered photography of a CK 2777 “Fat Arrow” wristwatch, one of many that Omega supplied to the Royal Air Force starting in 1952. The FAC retains the feel of the vintage original with an identically-sized case, but with Mr Moore’s Fat Arrow mashup as the dial. That makes the FAC different enough, in fact, to be interesting despite being a no-frills watch. Fat Arrow by Atom Moore The dial is covered with both the “Fat Arrow” and “Thin Arrow” in all their respective iterations. That might sound excessive, but ...
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite
De Bethune enhances their spectacular DB25 Starry Varius lineup with a 5 piece a year limited edition rendition in a magnificent meteorite dial.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch
Previously, the Speake-Marin catalogue was limited to dressier timepieces outfitted on straps. Recently, however, Speake-Marin unveiled their first foray into the immensely popular integrated stainless-steel sports category with their new Ripples design. The 50 metre water-resistant stainless-steel case effectively presents a large circular dial within a cushion format. While 40.3mm in diameter, because the dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review
Pros: The blue glacier pattern dial Interchangeable strap – takes seconds to change between a steel bracelet and a rubber strap Bang for buck Divers watch with all the right features Cons: 41 hours of power reserve is too short in today’s standardBetween the bracelet and the rubber strap, the rubber strap wears much nicer on the wrist Some may not appreciate the details on the dial Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc? This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif. The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece....
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Only India Unique Piece: Inspired By The Heavens And The Subcontinent
The Louis Moinet Only India is an intricate and colorful display of craftsmanship with a celestial hook that Joshua Munchow can’t ignore: a small fragment of the original Shergotty meteorite used as a centerpiece for the dial honoring aspects of Indian culture.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...