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Oris Slims Down their Most Extreme Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Oris Slims Down their Most Oct 23, 2025

Oris Slims Down their Most Extreme Dive Watch

It sure is a good time to be a watch enthusiast with smaller wrists, with so many brands finally scaling down popular references, or creating new, slimmer and smaller models to modernize their lineups. Though not explicitly marketed as a more minuscule version of the AquisPro 4000m, Oris’ new AquisPro 1000m dials down the bulkiness of the original for a newer reference that should be more wearable, and still incredibly capable.  When Oris first released the AquisPro 4000m in 2023, it boasted frankly insane water resistance-after all, who aside from the most daring divers are going 4,000 meters down-and a multi-piece titanium case that measured in at a whopping 49.5mm in diameter and about 23mm in thickness. Even as someone who enjoys large watches, that is bordering on unwearable in everyday circumstances, even though it is a fun piece to admire for its brawn and brutish capability. Still, it wore a beautiful ocean blue dial with a wave pattern that signaled its status as an appropriately pretty Oris timepiece, and featured the brand’s Oris Rotation Safety System (ORSS) to keep the bezel locked in place.  The new 1000m version carries forth the titanium construction and 49.5mm case size, but manages to slim down the thickness to a much more wearable 16.6mm. Additional measurements include 55mm lug-to-lug and 26.3mm lug widths, and the multi-piece titanium case is coated in gray PVD. The ORSS returns, too, with a ceramic bezel insert to spice up the familiar blue ...

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style Monochrome
Breguet Classique 7235 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style

Just after the introduction of the new Classique 7225, marking the return of the innovative magnetic pivot, Breguet releases another watch within its 250th anniversary collection. But this time, it’s not about shining a spotlight on one of the founder’s innovations, but rather to pay tribute to design principles defined by A.L. Breguet, to all […]

Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025 Fratello
Oct 22, 2025

Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025

Being part of the same group of companies as Chrono24 has its advantages: Fratello has access to the unrivaled data pool and insights of the world’s leading marketplace for luxury watches. With over 9 million monthly users and more than 560,000 listed watches, there is plenty to analyze and learn. We sat down with their […] Visit Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow Fratello
Hermes Oct 20, 2025

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow

Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Review: The Retro Classic Returns Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Oct 18, 2025

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Review: The Retro Classic Returns

The twangs and pangs of nostalgia are a powerful emotional experience, and as we’ve seen across nearly every commercial industry in recent years, they make for an effective marketing strategy. We’ve been subjected to the ploys of the nostalgia scheme for the past decade and some change, and there has been no other watch release this year that has channeled it more intensely than the revival of TAG Heuer’s Formula 1. I would also say that, despite being something people wanted to see happen for years now, the new 2025 reimagining of the brand’s colorful, so-80s-it-almost-hurts line has been one of the most polarizing releases of the year – a mixed bag of people welcoming the collection with open arms, and others who were already exhausted from the hype of the limited edition KITH collaboration that predated it by just a few months. Today, we’ll be running through the controversy and sentimentality of the current TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection, making a pit stop in the '80s to trace the evolution of the line before racing into the quick and dirty of what you need to know about it as it stands.  TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Context Our story begins with the ultimate crisis point for the watch industry – the quartz crisis. Heuer was becoming a casualty in the advent of quartz movements, and, in spite of its racing history, the brand was struggling to keep up the pace with Japanese brands like Seiko and Citizen that were pumping out cheaply priced quartz watche...

A Tasteful Lunar Twist on the Raymond Weil Millesime SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Oct 17, 2025

A Tasteful Lunar Twist on the Raymond Weil Millesime

Raymond Weil continues its run of affordable, retro-stylish Millesime with the Millesime Moon Phase Chronos Japan Edition. A collaboration with Chronos Japan Edition – one of the world’s best watch magazines but published only in Japanese – the latest Millesime was designed with the help of the magazine’s editor-in-chief, Masayuki Hirota. Based on the regular production version, the Chronos Japan edition is a 35 mm in diameter while its design underlines Mr Hirota’s keen eye, especially for vintage-inspired aesthetics and watch geek-detail. This includes the Art Deco-style typography for the hour numerals, and the photorealistic moon based on NASA images. And despite being made largely for the Japanese market, this edition is available internationally via the brand’s online store. Initial thoughts I like the original versions of the Millesime; they are appealing watches. Though the build is basic, the Millesime is priced affordably and appropriately. More broadly, the Millesime’s launch two years ago marked something of a renaissance for Raymond Weil – one of the most successful watch brands globally in the 1980s and 1990s – at least in terms of mechanical watches that enthusiasts paid attention to. The standard versions of the Millesime are numerous, and mostly share the same design, so it’s really the limited edition runs that are interesting. And fortunately there aren’t too many limited editions, at least for now. The Chronos edition qualifies as ...

Mechanical Wonders at the Louvre, From Ancient Egypt to Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Having opened Oct 16, 2025

Mechanical Wonders at the Louvre, From Ancient Egypt to Vacheron Constantin

Having opened on September 17th to coincide with the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, a philanthropic partner of the museum, Mécaniques d’art is an exhibition at the Louvre dedicated to mechanical art objects, specifically 10 historically significant clocks and watches (though some of the oldest are merely fragments).  On display in the Sully wing until November 12th, the exhibit casts a welcome light on an often-overlooked facet of the museum’s decorative arts collection; objects that blend technical mastery with mankind’s insatiable desire to measure time and understand the heavenly bodies. The centerpiece (literally, as it’s in the center of the room) is La Quête du Temps, the spectacular astronomical clock unveiled last month by Vacheron Constantin.  For those unable to visit, it’s worth a look at the remarkable objects on display, presented here in historical order. Exhibition overview Fragment of a Clepsydra Egypt, c. 332–30 BC At approximately 2,300 years old, the oldest clock on display predates mechanical clocks by centuries. Its age explains its condition – a mere fragment is all that remains of an ancient Egyptian clepsydra, or water clock.  As old as this water clock is, the underlying technology was centuries old when it was built. The device was essentially a flat-bottomed vessel with a hole in it, precisely drilled so that water would leak out at a predictable rate; experts estimate that this type of clepsydra could measure time t...

Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654 SJX Watches
Blancpain Facelifts Oct 15, 2025

Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654

As the first complication launched by the revived Blancpain in 1983, the triple calendar with moon phase is arguably the brand’s signature. Now Blancpain has reveal the latest generation of the model, the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune. The new version is primarily a cosmetic facelift, which includes a blue ceramic moon phase disc, but it builds on solid foundations. The model retains the innovative and patented under-lug correctors for the calendar that make for easier setting and a clean case outline. The new Villeret Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune (centre) is being launched alongside the the Quantième Phases de Lune, a 33.2 mm model for ladies (left), and Extraplate, the time-and-date base model (right), both of which have been similarly facelifted. Initial thoughts The triple calendar is a simple complication, but functions and aesthetically pleasing in the traditional layout that Blancpain employs. Though it is widely found across brands, Blancpain probably offers the most advanced triple calendar watches on the market thanks to its sophisticated movements. And Blancpain manages to do so at a reasonably competitive price relative to its peers. At a distance, the facelifted models look pretty much identical to the earlier generation – a good thing if you like the look, but the classical style might look dated to some. I find the aesthetic appealing, especially with details like the serpentine date hand and recessed dates scale. The facelift...

SJX Podcast: MB&F; Gives Away Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: MB&F; Gives Away Anniversary Editions

On episode 13 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss MB&F;’s decision to give away 20 free watches – 10 pieces of a new LM101 Longhorn for Tribe members and 10 pieces of a matching M.A.D.1S for prior raffle registrants. It’s a move that’s generated a lot of buzz, and a little bit of consternation, but regardless it’s a remarkable offer from one of the more successful independent brands of its era. Also discussed is the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds which just got upgraded with a new solid 18k pink gold dial. Is it still competitive nearly a decade after launch? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex? Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 11, 2025

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex?

In the world of Rolex, most people’s minds go straight to rarity, unattainability, and exclusivity. And in so many cases that rings true – except (and you may find this hard to believe) for the Submariner. That’s right, Rolex’s stalwart and most ubiquitous watch is also, kind of, its most accessible on the secondary market… and I am talking vintage and neovintage here. Sure, there are rare examples like Explorer dials (we will get to that in a bit), and early ref. 1680 Red Submariners that fetch a pretty penny at auction or from a vintage dealer. But there’s a very real reason for that. Those watches in particular fall into a bucket shared by many collectible rarities: They were only produced for a very short period of time. But there were many variations of vintage Subs, some rarer than others. And some still that weren’t rare at all. And the best example of that is the Rolex 5513, a Submariner model so common that it was one of Rolex’s most popular and best selling over the course of its – wait for it – 17-year run. Rolex 5513 History The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 was in production from 1962 until 1989, and while there are some pockets of special ref. 5513 models within that run, it is for the most part of one the brand’s longest-selling and most-produced Submariners, or even sports watches full stop (the Explorer ref. 1016 has entered the chat). In 1962, Rolex had been producing its Submariner reference 5512 for about three years. The 5512 was a n...

Introducing – The Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Oct 10, 2025

Introducing – The Kurono Grand Jubilee Calendar Salmon Dial

This year is pretty special for Kurono Tokyo, the more accessible brand created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Indeed, 2025 marks the watchmaker’s 60th anniversary, which the brand is celebrating as its diamond jubilee, resulting in several special edition watches that pay tribute to design features created by Asaoka. Following the highly elegant 2025 […]

Seiko Celebrates 75 Years of Peanuts and Snoopy with Vanac SDKV011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Oct 10, 2025

Seiko Celebrates 75 Years of Peanuts and Snoopy with Vanac SDKV011

Seiko celebrates 75 years of the Peanuts with a King Seiko Vanac Peanuts 75th Anniversary SDKV011, with everyone’s favourite Beagle on a newspaper-inspired dial. Limited to only 150 pieces for Japan only, foreigners will need to get creative if they want one. Initial Thoughts Peanuts is huge in Japan – or more accurately, Snoopy is. Grandberry Park in Tokyo plays host to a three-story tall Snoopy museum that receives several times as many yearly visitors as the Charles M. Schulz Museum in California. It should be no surprise then that the new Vanac is for the Japanese market only, which is unfortunate as it is an appealing watch for a relatively reasonable price. While a bit late to the integrated bracelet sports watch craze since it was only launched earlier this year, the Vanac is competitive in its segment thanks to standout case finishing and a highly competent movement. The new edition retains all the appeal of the standard model; the two-tone dial with gilt accents and Peanuts characters is subtle and a little retro in keeping with the design’s origins. A Snoopified King Seiko King Seiko is a Seiko sub-brand positioned just below the better-known Grand Seiko. The marque emerged from a multi-decade hibernation in 2021. Seiko launched original King Seiko Vanac line during the early 1970s, with sharp angular cases, colourful iridescent dials and faceted crystals – but the latter is missing on the modern Vanac. That absence stings as a faceted crystal would be an...

Casio MRW 200H Review: The Allure Of The "Diet G-Shock" Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Oct 9, 2025

Casio MRW 200H Review: The Allure Of The "Diet G-Shock"

The Casio MRW 200H has been around since 2011 and stands as one of the Japanese brand's most popular analog watches. Unassuming and tough, the MRW 200H is something of a more subtle and casual cousin of sister brand G-Shock. But don’t let that fool you into thinking that it’s not up to the task. Image by AOPA In fact, I read something on the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) website about NASA doing some aircraft testing at Johnson Space Center in Houston, and what watch did I happen to notice strapped on the arm of the person wearing the suit cover? Yep, it was a Casio MRW 200H. Obviously, this isn’t the official watch NASA uses (you know which one that is) but it’s a cool endorsement nonetheless. Casio MRW 200H Case The specs of the MRW 200H actually make it seem like it would wear larger than it does. The resin case measures 44.6mm wide and 11.6mm thick (with 100 meters of water resistance) but the 47.9mm lug-to-lug measurement ensures that it’s actually not so much of a presence on the wrist that one would mistake it for a G-Shock. There is also a bidirectional rotating bezel which does not have any satisfying clicking action but is easy enough to glide when operated while not unintentionally moving. The simple, steel, screw-down caseback has some basic specs and info stamped onto it. As you can imagine, there are no frills to be found here. The rest of the black resin case and strap are lightweight though not particularly remarkable in any way (a...

First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance Monochrome
Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80 Oct 9, 2025

First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance

Tissot is basking in the limelight these days with a string of attractive models at unbeatable prices that have quite literally flown off the shelves, including the much-coveted PRX integrated sports watch. However, suppose you are in the market for a more traditional, clean-cut, daily, three-hand-and-date companion? Well, Tissot’s Classic Dream collection has just expanded […]

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Oct 8, 2025

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review

The independent sector is where some of the most interesting, imaginative, and experimental designs are happening in the watch world, and Christopher Ward has been a standout in the category since its Bel Canto hit the scene. But today, I’m turning my attention to one of its less-hyped collections, one that is rather tame compared to the rest of the brand’s catalog, the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander. It strikes me as an outlier within the Christopher Ward universe – not that it’s without its own particular flair, but I would say that compared to the bold experiments with case architecture, haute horology level movements, and general quirky panache that I typically associate the brand with, the C63 Sealander is remarkably tame. The questions of the day are: how is this watch situated within the brand’s own offerings? What works about this watch, and what could be improved? Finally, how did we arrive at this relatively minimal watch in the first place? Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Context While other watchmakers have centuries-long histories, the Christopher Ward origin story is comparatively contemporary, officially founded in 2004. In that relatively short scope of time, the brand has evolved into one of the most successful independent brands out there, and the Christopher Ward of today has expanded its scope to include just about every flavor of watch utility, aesthetic, and functionality one could dream of, all while keeping its price point extremely competi...

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 8, 2025

Seiko SARB033: Why This JDM Watch Has A Cult Following

The Seiko SARB033 has joined the ranks of Seiko watches that are more popular and coveted than ever - despite never having been sold outside Seiko's home country of Japan and also despite exiting the market entirely back in 2018. In this article, we explore the SARB033 and its closest siblings from the elegant collection and try to uncover what makes these hard-to-find timepieces so appealing.  Seiko SARB Collection History: Seiko introduced its SARB collection exclusively to the Japanese market in 2006, positioning it as a more upscale alternative to the sportier 5 Sport line, which also offered watches with the brand’s own automatic movements at very approachable prices. The SARB series (no, the letters don’t stand for anything, we checked) was built around the Seiko Caliber 6R15 movement, more on which below, introduced by Seiko one year prior.  The first generation of SARB watches (SARB001, SARB002, and SARB005) appears to take inspiration from the King Seiko “Vanac” editions that made a brief but impactful splash on the market in the 1970s, with their angular cases, funky dial colors and textures, and faceted crystals. The next wave (SARB007, 009, 011) goes for more of a rounded, “Retro Modern” character, with vintage designs influencing the three-hand-date dials. On the heels of that trio came the first models in the series to really break through to widespread enthusiast acclaim outside their native Japan, the mountaineering-inspired “Alpinist” m...

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre derived calibre found Oct 7, 2025

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects.  First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

Introducing – The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi Oct 6, 2025

Introducing – The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition

When you turn 75, it means you can look back at three-quarters of a century of achievements and celebrate them with friends and partners. Marking the 75th anniversary of UAE’s leading luxury retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, cult brand Doxa launches a special edition that brings the brand’s 1973-born SUB 250 into sharp contemporary focus […]

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...